Blown head gasket options
12-03-2009, 07:36 AM
#21
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you dont need to rebuild the whole head just to get by. pop the heads off and make sure there is no major damage and visible dips. Just replace the headgasket and head bolts and call it good. if your going to do a 3.4 i would say research your ass off and just do the headgasked and headbolts to keep her up and running right now. People always make some big deal like a HG job is gonna cost you big bucks.. yeah it can if you end up doing a full/upper rebuild. Just skip the machine shop. you should be fine. i have gotten away with it for years.
You really think I can skip the machine shop? ( if that's the case, I'm going to <insert auto shop here> to buy auto parts.
***EDIT*** I forgot to ask, when you say damage and visible dips I know the dips would be the warping heads from heat. ( which prolly caused the HG failure in the first place ) But what kind of 'damage' should I be looking for?
Waterpump/tbelt/tstat were all replaced w/in 75k. The tstat done by me, the rest done by a shop in Phoenix before I got the truck. Tbelt looks good, but as mentioned in previous posts it's got a small crack in it. I'll replace it because it's only 25 dollars. If I'm doing that, I might as well do the pump too, even if it looks good, right?
Last edited by QuickPaws; 12-03-2009 at 07:39 AM.
12-03-2009, 07:38 AM
#22
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Proper is what I'd like to do. Cheap is what I can get away with. 3.4's are what dreams are made of.
I'm not too worried about replacing the tbelt/water pump. If I'm not decking? ( is that the word I want? ) the heads at a machine shop, that's 400 more dollars that I'd have to put into actual parts on the truck. ...I think I remember someone talking about a special gasket goo they use though for the water pump? Am I correct in this? I already have some ultra high temp RTV that I've used on the water inlet and hasn't failed me yet.
12-03-2009, 07:53 AM
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you should be find. im talking about visual defects like pitting or corrosion around the coolant ports. yes i do believe you will be fine without bringing it to the machine shop. No need to waste to much money if you plan on 3.4. just check your valves and adjust those accordingly.
when you get the heads off take a couple close up pics of the deck and post them up here. i will let you know what i think.
And yes i have done quite a few headgasket jobs without any machine work at all. its not always necessary. and if it is then i would look into getting a 3.4 sooner than you think.
i just threw a rod in my 3.0 and i just went out and picked up another 3.0 for 200 bucks. Sure it has 200k on it but whatever, it runs and drives and will get me by for the meantime while i can save up some more dough for the 3.4
when you get the heads off take a couple close up pics of the deck and post them up here. i will let you know what i think.
And yes i have done quite a few headgasket jobs without any machine work at all. its not always necessary. and if it is then i would look into getting a 3.4 sooner than you think.
i just threw a rod in my 3.0 and i just went out and picked up another 3.0 for 200 bucks. Sure it has 200k on it but whatever, it runs and drives and will get me by for the meantime while i can save up some more dough for the 3.4
12-03-2009, 08:32 AM
#24
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Proper is what I'd like to do. Cheap is what I can get away with. 3.4's are what dreams are made of.
I'm not too worried about replacing the tbelt/water pump. If I'm not decking? ( is that the word I want? ) the heads at a machine shop, that's 400 more dollars that I'd have to put into actual parts on the truck. ...I think I remember someone talking about a special gasket goo they use though for the water pump? Am I correct in this? I already have some ultra high temp RTV that I've used on the water inlet and hasn't failed me yet.
I'm not too worried about replacing the tbelt/water pump. If I'm not decking? ( is that the word I want? ) the heads at a machine shop, that's 400 more dollars that I'd have to put into actual parts on the truck. ...I think I remember someone talking about a special gasket goo they use though for the water pump? Am I correct in this? I already have some ultra high temp RTV that I've used on the water inlet and hasn't failed me yet.
As mentioned already if you are going with a Fel Pro gasket then you should not have to do this unless your heads are warped. I have seen people replace the valve seals just for good measure and clean up the valves.
The special gasket goo is liquid gasket sealant not 100% sure if RTV is since that's mainly used on exhaust type parts. If you can use what you have with no ill effects/leaks I don't see why you can't continue using it. The water pump sealant costs like .99 and comes in packets so you don't have to buy an entire tube. When I replaced the water pump on my DSM the stuff was blue and smelled like silicone.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 12-03-2009 at 08:35 AM.
12-03-2009, 08:41 AM
#25
Its gonna take you forever to drop another motor in there, alot of people say it wont but ive done it and i promise you it will.
Mine went out a couple months ago and i bought a head gasket kit from Autozone and it worked perfect. Just make sure you take the head bolts out in the right pattern otherwise you'll warp the head of the motor. Leave your spark plugs in and turn the head upside down so you can see the valves, fill them with gas and leave them for ten minutes, look and see if they are leaking, if they are you probably need to replace the valve seals.
I got the head of my motor trued up for 40 bucks, so if you ran it hot, trust me and get it trued up cause no matter how you took the head bolts out its gonna have to be trued up, i wasted a head gasket that way.
My advice, just roll with replacing the head gasket, unless you think your motor is about to go, then bite the bullet and go for it.
Mine went out a couple months ago and i bought a head gasket kit from Autozone and it worked perfect. Just make sure you take the head bolts out in the right pattern otherwise you'll warp the head of the motor. Leave your spark plugs in and turn the head upside down so you can see the valves, fill them with gas and leave them for ten minutes, look and see if they are leaking, if they are you probably need to replace the valve seals.
I got the head of my motor trued up for 40 bucks, so if you ran it hot, trust me and get it trued up cause no matter how you took the head bolts out its gonna have to be trued up, i wasted a head gasket that way.
My advice, just roll with replacing the head gasket, unless you think your motor is about to go, then bite the bullet and go for it.
12-03-2009, 09:39 AM
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Resurface/Redecked same thing again.
As mentioned already if you are going with a Fel Pro gasket then you should not have to do this unless your heads are warped. I have seen people replace the valve seals just for good measure and clean up the valves.
The special gasket goo is liquid gasket sealant not 100% sure if RTV is since that's mainly used on exhaust type parts. If you can use what you have with no ill effects/leaks I don't see why you can't continue using it. The water pump sealant costs like .99 and comes in packets so you don't have to buy an entire tube. When I replaced the water pump on my DSM the stuff was blue and smelled like silicone.
As mentioned already if you are going with a Fel Pro gasket then you should not have to do this unless your heads are warped. I have seen people replace the valve seals just for good measure and clean up the valves.
The special gasket goo is liquid gasket sealant not 100% sure if RTV is since that's mainly used on exhaust type parts. If you can use what you have with no ill effects/leaks I don't see why you can't continue using it. The water pump sealant costs like .99 and comes in packets so you don't have to buy an entire tube. When I replaced the water pump on my DSM the stuff was blue and smelled like silicone.
For some reason the stuff I saw was black ( it was in a water pump thread ) and the guy mentioned he got it from the dealership.
When you say you've seen people clean up their valves? What's the best way to do that? I swear I've seen people say they used a dremel on em to carefully get off carbon? Also are there any-special- tools needed to adjust the valves?
12-03-2009, 09:51 PM
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Everything makes sense. I follow what your saying. What's the best way to clean the headbolt holes though? I presume I should invest in couple cans of Carb Cleaner too, eh? Other suggestions to clean the head? ( I have grind wheels AND an angle grinder ) I presume you just want me to use the wheel OFF the grinder correct?
Last edited by QuickPaws; 12-03-2009 at 09:53 PM.
12-04-2009, 05:28 AM
#28
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The blue stuff I know I've seen used before.. ( usually on cooling systems, go figure ) I have the red because I was stranded at a gas station hours into my move to Indiana and it said HIGH TEMP RESISTANT on it... truck was running hot so I figured wth.
For some reason the stuff I saw was black ( it was in a water pump thread ) and the guy mentioned he got it from the dealership.
When you say you've seen people clean up their valves? What's the best way to do that? I swear I've seen people say they used a dremel on em to carefully get off carbon? Also are there any-special- tools needed to adjust the valves?
For some reason the stuff I saw was black ( it was in a water pump thread ) and the guy mentioned he got it from the dealership.
When you say you've seen people clean up their valves? What's the best way to do that? I swear I've seen people say they used a dremel on em to carefully get off carbon? Also are there any-special- tools needed to adjust the valves?
http://forum.ih8mud.com/4701480-post8.html
Everything makes sense. I follow what your saying. What's the best way to clean the headbolt holes though? I presume I should invest in couple cans of Carb Cleaner too, eh? Other suggestions to clean the head? ( I have grind wheels AND an angle grinder ) I presume you just want me to use the wheel OFF the grinder correct?
Last edited by BoostinChick; 12-04-2009 at 05:35 AM.
12-04-2009, 06:54 AM
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The black stuff is FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) there are 3 types from the Toyota dealer. People use dremels to clean it but I agree with yota4runner just have the head shop do the valve job. They can ensure proper seating and what not (since the intake and exhaust valves are most likely different sizes). I did my own valve job on my DSM and it took me a solid 5 hours because of those stupid valve retainers and I had to do 16 valves!
http://forum.ih8mud.com/4701480-post8.html
Those spray air cans you use to clean your electronics would work. Pretty much what he is recommending is to "chase" the threads of the head bolts.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/4701480-post8.html
Those spray air cans you use to clean your electronics would work. Pretty much what he is recommending is to "chase" the threads of the head bolts.
'chasing' threaded holes I've heard of.. and I want to remember someone using something that they threaded into the hole, and it cleaned out all the threads.. he called it a bolt, I dunno if there's an actual tool for it though. Canned air I'm super familiar with, and have no arguments buying it.. I'll eventually get some kind of air compressor though.
12-04-2009, 06:59 AM
#30
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If it comes down to it, I AM going to just let the shop do any work that needs to be done on them That price has pretty much already been figured into my repair costs. If I'm doing it partially, I might as well do it completely partially.
'chasing' threaded holes I've heard of.. and I want to remember someone using something that they threaded into the hole, and it cleaned out all the threads.. he called it a bolt, I dunno if there's an actual tool for it though. Canned air I'm super familiar with, and have no arguments buying it.. I'll eventually get some kind of air compressor though.
'chasing' threaded holes I've heard of.. and I want to remember someone using something that they threaded into the hole, and it cleaned out all the threads.. he called it a bolt, I dunno if there's an actual tool for it though. Canned air I'm super familiar with, and have no arguments buying it.. I'll eventually get some kind of air compressor though.
12-04-2009, 06:59 AM
#31
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And money, I wouldn't dive into a 3.4 swap with only a grand of cash.
12-04-2009, 07:17 AM
#32
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I guess I was a little behind on this thread (didn't see page 2). Looks like a good time to repost my favorite EB quotes:
EB's special head bolt torquing proceedure
Quoted from EB:
Here's a another quote form EB, but I think he was talking about the 22re since he mentions retorquing after a full warm up, something that would be a major PITA for a 3vze.
Quoted from EB:
>>>*Morning!
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
>>>*Other than simple overheat, the #1 cause of head gasket failure is clamping force variations.
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB
12-13-2009, 08:49 AM
#33
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OK.. dunno if anyone is still following this.. but I hope so.. you guys ( and gal(s) ) have been indispensable in donating to my learning and knowledge gathering.
That said, here's where I sit.
I've decided that the 3.4 swap as much as I'd like to, and as good an idea it is for the truck just isn't going to happen. Most of it's money related, but other parts are related to the S/O and her pretty much telling me NO.
I have just a couple questions:
1. I won't be able to do the HG's for at least another month. The truck has been sitting in the garage with all the belts pulled off, the rad off fan everything. The plugs are also pulled. I've got rags stuffed down on top of the plug holes. Is this bad? Should I put the plugs back in?
2. Would it be bad for me to go start tearing things apart? Get the heads off and in the house? Possibly try to clean them up? This way I could work on the block ( getting it ready too using previous posters method of using a grinding wheel ( which I actually have!) )
3. I check on the truck almost every day. I open the hood... get all sad looking while I stare at it, sigh and close the hood. ( hopefully, I'm not the only one who has done this at some point with their 'Yota ) That said, I've noticed that things are starting to rust that weren't rusted when I started working in it. Like the number 2 idler pulley. It's speckled with rust. Should I presume that the inside of the cylinder walls are going to be the same way since it's been sitting for so long?
4. Is there -anything- else that I can do to help my case with my truck? Is there anything else I should look at? I think I mentioned in previous comments that I plan on replacing the water pump and timing belt. I have new plugs. My wires look good ( no cracks, hot spots or things like that )
5. This one is throwing me for a loop. I notice that Engnbldr has a full gasket set for 119 dollars..... (FGS9500) It says it comes with seals, which I presume are the valve seals. That's a hundred dollars less than the felpro ( or comparable ) from Autozone, Advance, O'reilly and the like. Is it the same set of gaskets? ( or is this something I should email to him @ his site email address? )
Thanks ahead of time!
Mike
That said, here's where I sit.
I've decided that the 3.4 swap as much as I'd like to, and as good an idea it is for the truck just isn't going to happen. Most of it's money related, but other parts are related to the S/O and her pretty much telling me NO.
I have just a couple questions:
1. I won't be able to do the HG's for at least another month. The truck has been sitting in the garage with all the belts pulled off, the rad off fan everything. The plugs are also pulled. I've got rags stuffed down on top of the plug holes. Is this bad? Should I put the plugs back in?
2. Would it be bad for me to go start tearing things apart? Get the heads off and in the house? Possibly try to clean them up? This way I could work on the block ( getting it ready too using previous posters method of using a grinding wheel ( which I actually have!) )
3. I check on the truck almost every day. I open the hood... get all sad looking while I stare at it, sigh and close the hood. ( hopefully, I'm not the only one who has done this at some point with their 'Yota ) That said, I've noticed that things are starting to rust that weren't rusted when I started working in it. Like the number 2 idler pulley. It's speckled with rust. Should I presume that the inside of the cylinder walls are going to be the same way since it's been sitting for so long?
4. Is there -anything- else that I can do to help my case with my truck? Is there anything else I should look at? I think I mentioned in previous comments that I plan on replacing the water pump and timing belt. I have new plugs. My wires look good ( no cracks, hot spots or things like that )
5. This one is throwing me for a loop. I notice that Engnbldr has a full gasket set for 119 dollars..... (FGS9500) It says it comes with seals, which I presume are the valve seals. That's a hundred dollars less than the felpro ( or comparable ) from Autozone, Advance, O'reilly and the like. Is it the same set of gaskets? ( or is this something I should email to him @ his site email address? )
Thanks ahead of time!
Mike
Last edited by QuickPaws; 12-13-2009 at 09:06 AM.
12-13-2009, 08:54 AM
#34
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"I presume you just want me to use the wheel OFF the grinder correct? "
YES! Push the grinding wheel back and forth [not rotating] by hand!
I clean the head bolt holes in the engine block using carb spray.
Ted at engnbldr [EB] recommends chasing the bolt holes like this:
" The bolt hole threads should be chased out, also (NOT tapped!)..We use an old head bolt, and cut a groove with a hacksaw, they make a perfect chaser."
After cleaning with carb spray and chasing, I clean again with carb spray and then blow them dry with a blow nozzle and air from an air compressor.
I'd bet that most of the failures of replacements head gaskets that you read about on these boards are due to improper prep on the bolt holes [like leaving oil or antifreeze in the holes], resulting in low clamping forces from the head bolts.
YES! Push the grinding wheel back and forth [not rotating] by hand!
I clean the head bolt holes in the engine block using carb spray.
Ted at engnbldr [EB] recommends chasing the bolt holes like this:
" The bolt hole threads should be chased out, also (NOT tapped!)..We use an old head bolt, and cut a groove with a hacksaw, they make a perfect chaser."
After cleaning with carb spray and chasing, I clean again with carb spray and then blow them dry with a blow nozzle and air from an air compressor.
I'd bet that most of the failures of replacements head gaskets that you read about on these boards are due to improper prep on the bolt holes [like leaving oil or antifreeze in the holes], resulting in low clamping forces from the head bolts.
I like the idea of just using an hold headbolt. That's something I can do. Seems to me I can just drop it in a vice and go from there. I did a quick search, but I couldn't find anything: Should that groove go from the bottom of the bolt, all the way to the head of it?
I do need to invest in torque wrenches. That's something I don't have. I also need to invest in some torx sockets, as I believe I'm pretty sure I saw bolts on the engine that were torx.
Also, thanks for clarifying the grinding wheel thing. I'm sure I sound like an idiot but I just wanted to make sure.
Mike
12-13-2009, 10:48 AM
#35
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That's a possibility, IIRC there is an oil fogger product to spray into the spark plug holes. Its made for long term storage of engines, like for boats maybe.
Last edited by mt_goat; 12-13-2009 at 11:10 AM.
12-13-2009, 12:39 PM
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Note there is a proceedure for removing the heads, an order of head bolt removal to prevent warping. See the FSM.
I have the FSM in digital format. I've been reading sections here and there when I'm waiting for archives to decompress on my computer at times.( though, by the time I'm done working on this, I'll have half of it printed out and I'll have a real FSM... kinda )
That's a possibility, IIRC there is an oil fogger product to spray into the spark plug holes. Its made for long term storage of engines, like for boats maybe.
I have the FSM in digital format. I've been reading sections here and there when I'm waiting for archives to decompress on my computer at times.( though, by the time I'm done working on this, I'll have half of it printed out and I'll have a real FSM... kinda
) That's a possibility, IIRC there is an oil fogger product to spray into the spark plug holes. Its made for long term storage of engines, like for boats maybe.
Thanks again!
Mike
Last edited by QuickPaws; 12-13-2009 at 02:35 PM.
12-13-2009, 05:31 PM
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Ok... so I've been emailing back and forth with Ted from Engnbldr ( that guy is a riot, I'd give him my money just because he has a sense of humor ) and I'm pretty sure I'm just going to get everything I need from him. His full gasket set is less than half the retail cost of a full FelPro kit. He mentions they are steel faced gaskets, which I'm sure I have seen mentioned on here before so I'm game. They also do head work so it looks like I can -maybe- ship my heads off to him for work. ( he asked that I get in touch with his son ) While he's got the heads, I'm gonna see about sending my injectors in for servicing. Cruzin performance is the one I've seen tossed around on the site, and another member I've been working with has mentioned using Witchhunter. I presume either would be adequate.
My only other plan is to get some headers. I've been doing some research, and it looks like NWOR, Thorley, and Downeyheadersare my best options. I'm leaning towards the NWOR at this point because of them being stainless steel and that seems to lack a need for getting them ceramic coated ( so I've read in some threads anyway ) as well as some other features that members here seem to approve of. Opinions please?
The only other thing I'd like to ask for some opinions on is my CEL light. I know the circuit works. It turns on and off just like it's supposed to when the truck is turned on. HOWEVER when I jump the terminals in the diagnostics port, nothing happens. The light just stays on. From basic reading and understanding of the engine harness, those two wires that end at the diagnostics port also have to end at the computer. Could I just trace the wires using a diagram, and short them at the computer? I -really- need to get the codes from the dang thing and I don't like the idea of hacking apart the diagnostics harness ( I tried just a little, but DANG those are some small friggan wires under all that wrap ) Also, opinions please?
I'm hoping to start this project in about 6 weeks ( and hopefully be able to put it all back together shortly there after )
My only other plan is to get some headers. I've been doing some research, and it looks like NWOR, Thorley, and Downeyheadersare my best options. I'm leaning towards the NWOR at this point because of them being stainless steel and that seems to lack a need for getting them ceramic coated ( so I've read in some threads anyway ) as well as some other features that members here seem to approve of. Opinions please?
The only other thing I'd like to ask for some opinions on is my CEL light. I know the circuit works. It turns on and off just like it's supposed to when the truck is turned on. HOWEVER when I jump the terminals in the diagnostics port, nothing happens. The light just stays on. From basic reading and understanding of the engine harness, those two wires that end at the diagnostics port also have to end at the computer. Could I just trace the wires using a diagram, and short them at the computer? I -really- need to get the codes from the dang thing and I don't like the idea of hacking apart the diagnostics harness ( I tried just a little, but DANG those are some small friggan wires under all that wrap ) Also, opinions please?
I'm hoping to start this project in about 6 weeks ( and hopefully be able to put it all back together shortly there after )
12-13-2009, 05:52 PM
#38
Registered User
What terminals are you jumping? You sure the paper clip ends (or whatever "tool" you are using) are in the right ports all the way? If you do it right once you turn the key to the on position you will see the O/D light go on then off once (or a series of times if you have a trans type issue).
After I rip my heads off and if my rods are okay I think I may just send my heads to engbldr as well and do o/s valves and possibly cams. As for headers NWOR is a 7-8 month wait and every time I have called them I was given horrible customer service and attitude. From the posts I have read, Downey ceramic headers are a hit or miss. Most people have the y-pipe part fabbed by a local exhaust shop since for an auto tranny it's a bit tricky with fitment.
After I rip my heads off and if my rods are okay I think I may just send my heads to engbldr as well and do o/s valves and possibly cams. As for headers NWOR is a 7-8 month wait and every time I have called them I was given horrible customer service and attitude. From the posts I have read, Downey ceramic headers are a hit or miss. Most people have the y-pipe part fabbed by a local exhaust shop since for an auto tranny it's a bit tricky with fitment.
Last edited by BoostinChick; 12-13-2009 at 05:54 PM.
12-13-2009, 06:08 PM
#39
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You know I had a problem with getting a good connection at the diagnostic terminals using a paper clip. I ended up using the probes in my multimeter and it worked great.
12-13-2009, 08:02 PM
#40
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What terminals are you jumping? You sure the paper clip ends (or whatever "tool" you are using) are in the right ports all the way? If you do it right once you turn the key to the on position you will see the O/D light go on then off once (or a series of times if you have a trans type issue).
After I rip my heads off and if my rods are okay I think I may just send my heads to engbldr as well and do o/s valves and possibly cams. As for headers NWOR is a 7-8 month wait and every time I have called them I was given horrible customer service and attitude. From the posts I have read, Downey ceramic headers are a hit or miss. Most people have the y-pipe part fabbed by a local exhaust shop since for an auto tranny it's a bit tricky with fitment.
After I rip my heads off and if my rods are okay I think I may just send my heads to engbldr as well and do o/s valves and possibly cams. As for headers NWOR is a 7-8 month wait and every time I have called them I was given horrible customer service and attitude. From the posts I have read, Downey ceramic headers are a hit or miss. Most people have the y-pipe part fabbed by a local exhaust shop since for an auto tranny it's a bit tricky with fitment.
I'm jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals ( I'm pulling from memory, I'm not sure if I typed the labels correct, but I know when I'm out on the truck I'm jumping the correct ones ) my OD light has NEVER flashed at me. ( terminals jumped or otherwise ) I can tell from looking down into the port that the terminals are FUBAR. Like someone tried to jam something WAY TOO BIG down in there. I built my own SST using spade terminals and a length of wire I cut out of a standard computer power cord ( the 3 prong grounded type you plug into your tower, or monitor.. I have an absurd amount of them.. go being nerdy )
The only reason I thought of NWOR is because I was just on their site today and it says that they have the headers "IN STOCK AGAIN!" Is this how it's been when you've been there too? ... I'm not a fan of anything that has poor customer service. I've done tech support for many large companies ( GoDaddy.com, iPower, and Apple, Inc ) and poor customer service has NEVER won anything with me.
I'm hoping that everything except the head gaskets are ok on my truck. If not, I guess I'll break down and cry. ( again )
