big oil leak on a 88 pickup 22re
04-11-2010, 09:24 PM
#42
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yea it was pretty odd, the first (outside) bolt head is the actual bolt, the second head w/the flange was just a spacer i guess...just a bolt head with threads in it.
04-13-2010, 07:13 PM
#43
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im to the point of putting it back togethor now and i was wondering about the oil pump. in my directions it said take note of how it came off and i noticed the marks on both gears. when i re-install the oil pump how do i need the marks lined up? do they correlate with the key on the crankshaft 12'oclock position?
04-14-2010, 02:34 PM
#44
The oil pump marks on the 22r don't have anything to do with the timing or other relations other than the oil pump it self. The oil pump will naturaly seek thoses dots to line up as it turns. It really does not matter. Just line the dots up and bolt it on. Make sure you fill the pump full of oil the best you can before you put it on.
10-26-2010, 07:29 AM
#45
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Hey guys. First post here. Just bought an 88 4Runner 4WD. I found this thread when search for info about a large oil leak on the front of the engine while at high rpm. I'm pretty sure it's the crankshaft seal.
Is this the correct part?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=226665_0_0_
Here's a pic of my truck. $1k winter ride! I love it. It's been abused, so I have to treat it very gently until we establish some trust.
Is this the correct part?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=226665_0_0_
Here's a pic of my truck. $1k winter ride! I love it. It's been abused, so I have to treat it very gently until we establish some trust.
10-26-2010, 08:36 AM
#46
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sweet ride man. What wheel are tire size are you running? Do you know your backspacing?
That link looks like the correct seal. I would do as oregon yota is doing and go ahead and replace the timing chain. Might as well get the whole kit from engine builder and replace the front end for $140. It's a easy job.
That link looks like the correct seal. I would do as oregon yota is doing and go ahead and replace the timing chain. Might as well get the whole kit from engine builder and replace the front end for $140. It's a easy job.
10-26-2010, 12:26 PM
#48
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Thanks guys! It's got a few issues. I just notices the driver front wheel had excess negative camber. I raised the front end and watched the entire wheel and tire flop around! The wheel bearings were COMPLETELY wasted. I can't believe I drove it home like that.
So now I'm researching how to reassemble all the junk that fell out of that hub and install new bearings, which I'm already familiar with.
So now I'm researching how to reassemble all the junk that fell out of that hub and install new bearings, which I'm already familiar with.
10-26-2010, 01:09 PM
#49
here's a good write up for the bearings http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ent-18322.html Make sure you get a 54 mm socket and a brass drift set and you should be good. Use toyota parts when you can as they are great but pricey.
11-02-2010, 02:20 PM
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yea thats the right part but i would also get a wear sleeve, its just a thin sleeve that is a press fit onto your crankshaft pulley, inspect the pulley where the seal would ride and there could be a small line dug in all the way around from where the seal sits on it....hard to believe but rubber will win against steel anyday
11-13-2010, 04:00 PM
#51
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Well I'm stumped. I pulled the oil pump and replaced the o-ring and crankshaft seal. Also installed a sleeve on the harmonic balancer due to a slight groove. Got it all buttoned up and found that it is now leaking out of the seal.
How far below the surface of the pump surface should the seal be recessed? I just pushed it in there flush.
What in the world could cause this thing to continue leaking?
How far below the surface of the pump surface should the seal be recessed? I just pushed it in there flush.
What in the world could cause this thing to continue leaking?
11-13-2010, 04:07 PM
#52
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Even with the sleeve it still leaks huh. The stock seal is 12mm wide, if you use seal # 90311 4514 (94 22re) it is 7mm wide, and if positioned 1 mm inside outer edge that would reposition the seal junction, no more leak supposedly. Could be a leak from close to there.
11-14-2010, 01:16 PM
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So today I pulled the balancer off again to have a look. The face of the seal was dry. The seal had marked a new line on the sleeve surface right in the center. It appears to be sealing well.
There was oil on the inner side of the balancer as if it were coming from the crankshaft mating surface. The fit of the balancer on the crankshaft is loose enough for me to pull it off easily both times by hand. Could this be the source of the leak? I saw at least one post where someone used silicone on the mating surface.
Thanks for the help guys!
There was oil on the inner side of the balancer as if it were coming from the crankshaft mating surface. The fit of the balancer on the crankshaft is loose enough for me to pull it off easily both times by hand. Could this be the source of the leak? I saw at least one post where someone used silicone on the mating surface.
Thanks for the help guys!
Last edited by dreadnotmusic; 11-14-2010 at 01:18 PM.
11-17-2010, 08:05 AM
#60
>>>*Morning!
Oil leak, and new seal doesn't fix it? Here are a couple of possibles.
The top oil pump bolt hole goes all the way through the timing cover. Those threads must be sealed or she will leak. But normally that drips pretty much all the time, a bit more at speed and airflow tosses it all over the place so it's hard to find.
The other one is a tiny crack or flaw in the timing cover right where the oil galley is, down low. The faster you go, the more oil pressure, and the more that will leak. Oil everywhere, looks like it is coming off the valve cover...
Just a thought for if nothing else works....*EB
Oil leak, and new seal doesn't fix it? Here are a couple of possibles.
The top oil pump bolt hole goes all the way through the timing cover. Those threads must be sealed or she will leak. But normally that drips pretty much all the time, a bit more at speed and airflow tosses it all over the place so it's hard to find.
The other one is a tiny crack or flaw in the timing cover right where the oil galley is, down low. The faster you go, the more oil pressure, and the more that will leak. Oil everywhere, looks like it is coming off the valve cover...
Just a thought for if nothing else works....*EB
