XSiKassCiViCx

I recently got into a bad spot where my 91 4runner 22re was briefly submerged under water. The engine itself was almost completely under water. It was pulled out immediately and within 30 minutes I drained the oil, flushed it well, and put new oil in it. I pulled the plugs and cranked it over to get the water out of the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, drained the tank, and installed a new fuel filter. I put some heet in the tank just in case, but I got it to run fine for about 2 weeks and now it's acting up.
I can start it just fine, it idles a little high which is expected as its been cold. But once it warms up, it bogs down, backfires through the intake, and just won't go out of first gear without spitting really bad. I'm leaning towards a sensor, but which one I can't be sure of. Tps, coolant temp, IAC valve, egr valve. Who knows. I can drive it OK for about 10 min, but once it gets warmed up I have to park it.

I'm about to start chasing down the issue, but figured someone else might've encountered this issue before, so I thought I'd ask. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank ya

cross posted in the newbie thread because I'm a newbie here and wasn't sure if I could post in here.

XSiKassCiViCx

Update

Well I've been messing with it since getting off work and although I haven't found the problem, I plugged and unplugged the VAF and tried to clean the connection. It's still back fires but now it's idling fine (for now). I haven't drove it to see what happens yet though. I tried to check my codes and it wasn't showing any. It did however throw some when I accidentally left the paper clip in when I started the truck. I didn't think it worked like that?????

I did notice that it's running really lean, I can smell the gas and it stunk up the house. Wife wasn't happy lol. So I know it's getting to much fuel. Which sensors can dictate the air/fuel ratio?

This is what I drive back and forth to work everyday so any help would be greatly appreciated

L5wolvesf

If you can smell gas in the exhaust it is running rich.

XSiKassCiViCx

Ya my bad, I knew that. Was having a conversation with the wife about it and Must've had it stuck in my head while typing.
So do ya have any suggestions?

Charchee

Your timing is off.

XSiKassCiViCx

It runs fine when it's cold but obviously gets way to much fuel when it warms up. Once it gets to putting and acting sluggish for a few minutes, I can push it to the floor and it'll hook and go, but shortly after that the check engine light comes on and then it really bogs down. Absolutely no power at all and I have to park it.

you think it's the timing?

I've started pulling sensors to test them so I guess I might as well check the timing next. Thanks for the reply

Charchee

Sorry. Accidentally hit post before I was done. Some other 22RE guys can probably help you better than I can but whenever I suspect timing, I start with a timing light to give me a point of reference and because it is easy and noninvasive to do. I doubt you slipped a tooth on your chain since you didn't have that trouble for a week or so after your sinking, so I'm leaning toward your ignition timing. I bet you are getting your spark early before the intake valve has sealed off. It's important to get this issue figured out before you drive it anymore.

Charchee

It's not getting too much fuel. It's just not burning it completely due to a valve being cracked open on the compression stroke. Gas as a high pressure vapor explodes. Gas as a low pressure mist just burns, leaving behind fumes and soot. That's what you're smelling. You are probably covering your O2 sensor in soot at the same time.

XSiKassCiViCx

I haven't had my o2 sensor attached in 2 years. It rusted and blew off. I was always working so I forgot about it for about a year and when I remembered, I decided it didn't matter much because it always ran with no issue.
Timing was on my list of to dos, just wanted to cover a few of those sensors that I can cause issues similar to this.
I used to run it without the tps sensor plugged in, but since this happened, I have to have it plugged in or it won't run at all.

L5wolvesf

There are some other guy here who know a lot more about the Toyota injection system than I do. I'll let them chime in.

XSiKassCiViCx

You guys are awesome. I've had this one for almost 5 yrs. 260k miles. Wish I would've found this site sooner, but this is the only issue I've had with it since I've owned it so I never needed to look for answers.

Charchee

Now I'm really interested. Your timing and fuel mix is dynamic, meaning that input from that input from your O2 and TPS, among other sensors, changes your mix and ignition timing while you're driving. Running without input from them will throw codes and usually tell the engine to run in open loop which is kind of like the settings it uses while it starts and warms up. It runs good while it's warming up right? This is usually a rich fuel condition with no timing advance. Have you checked for stored codes? You must have one for the missing O2 sensor.

You need to double check for codes first. I bet you see O2 circuit and at least one more. I bet you find one or more electronic issues that are causing your issues and when you get them fixed, you are going to be really surprised at how good it runs.

XSiKassCiViCx

Yes, It runs just fine while it's warming up. My check engine light was always on, checked it awhile back and it was the o2 sensor.
Checked it again, probably the 6th time in 2 days, and I always nothing. I'll let it start acting up ie, backfiring and bogging down, shut it off and check and I get nothing. The only time I've gotten codes was when I forgot to pull the paper clip out and I started it. I would get codes there, including an o2 sensor but I didn't think it needed to be started for it to show them.

codes are as follows 31, 41, and one I'm not sure of.
light flashes for .5 second then I get a 1.5 second pause proceeded by 2 more flashes. Haven't had much time too look at the codes. I'll check them when I get home from work.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If this was underwater enough that you had water in the cab .

If the complete engine was submerged most likely so was the ECU !!!!

ECU`s and water really don`t play well at all . Along with all the other relays and sensors

Is it Fubared or can taking it out and drying it save things my luck was never that good .

In fact I went through three before I figured out it was water causing all my problems

Best of Luck

XSiKassCiViCx

I'm fairly certain it did get wet. I pulled it out and dried it out as best I could. But I assumed that because it ran well for those few weeks that the ecu wasn't the issue.

Now that I know it was only running because the motor stayed colder longer, I have to look at everything. Saving the ecu for last because everything is relatively free to check.

Does anyone have a link to all the sensor readings that are on our trucks? Going to start checking the volts and ohms tomorrow. Haven't had time to do so yet, but I'm going to take a few days off to figure this thing out. It's my daily so I have to sooner than later.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That strange unknown pattern throws up a huge red flag to me.

After going through 3 ECM`s and one Brand New from Toyota.

I hated the OBII but it is so much better then the OBI and counting blink patterns .

If I had the EWD for 91 I would be glad to share the info.

Charchee

Leaking windshield? I'm dealing with that now. I had a gallon of water in my P-side floorboard a month ago. That's probably what killed my lase ecu. Did you say you knew of a place that rebuilds them? If so, how much do they charge? I miss having the peace of mind my spare ecu gave me on long trips.

XSiKassCiViCx

Hopefully this link works, it's a video of the code I was talking about. Read the description before telling me it shouldn't have been running lol.

XSiKassCiViCx

Never miND, didn't think it'd post like that. I wasn't getting any codes when I did it the right way. I left the paper clip in the diagnostic pins accidentally, and started it to check something else. This is what it was saying. The second and third code are 31 and 41 if I remember correctly how that works. I kept recording so you could see the first one again.

Charchee

Good ole 31 and 41. TPS and MAF. These are the main two senses of your engine. Imagine how well you'd get around if you were both blind and deaf. That's where you'd be without these two sensors working properly. Feedback from them controls timing advance and air/fuel ratio. You need to troubleshoot both of them. On the 3.0L the MAF isn't too bad to troubleshoot but the TPS takes some patience due to now being able to see and reach very well but your engine may be quite a bit easier.

Did you get that PM I sent you. Look up the troubleshooting procedures, follow them to the letter and you are going to find your problem. I can't believe you were running without your O2 and TPS. You are about to see a hell of a difference when you get through fixing this.