A340H temps
10-12-2006, 12:38 PM
#62
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I've thought about it but I think I still like knowing the temp of the fluid leaving the tranny. I recently installed new radiator and aux cooler so I figure they should be doing there job. I suppose either way, if your cooling system isn't doing its job, the temp guage is gonna let you know.
10-12-2006, 04:58 PM
#63
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yeah i was pretty sure it was closer to 10 quarts total but i was doing so many things it was hard to keep track and i counted at least 8 when i finished though so i didnt want to lead someone astray.
btw if you arent using a oil thermostat with your aftermarket cooler it may be cooling the oil to much.
btw if you arent using a oil thermostat with your aftermarket cooler it may be cooling the oil to much.
10-12-2006, 09:01 PM
#64
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10-13-2006, 04:30 AM
#66
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The Tru-Cool LPD coolers have a passive bypass designed into them so they don't cool too much. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml
10-13-2006, 07:24 AM
#67
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Bumpin
to me it sounds like the ultra low gear is actually your clutch packs not engageing all the way and slipping same with the reverse gear.
Unless you flushed the whole tranny or got a new TC its hard to get all the water out. even flushing it. because the water is heavier then the oil and will sit in the bottom of the TC and not flush out. i think you would be smart to invest in a new or at least used TC when you rebuild your tranny soon. which i would suggest you doo sooner then later. the more you put it off with that slippage the more parts you probably going to end up replacing. btw this doesnt sound like something that would be in your VB unless its just water blocking a passage. I think at minimum you need to do a good flush. use the cheapest oil you can get to flush it then after you test it out maybe go up in grade. but dont go expensive because you might just be dumping it again. So anyway um as far as hydraulic or atf compressing no it doesnt. well at least not measurably really
to me it sounds like the ultra low gear is actually your clutch packs not engageing all the way and slipping same with the reverse gear.
Unless you flushed the whole tranny or got a new TC its hard to get all the water out. even flushing it. because the water is heavier then the oil and will sit in the bottom of the TC and not flush out. i think you would be smart to invest in a new or at least used TC when you rebuild your tranny soon. which i would suggest you doo sooner then later. the more you put it off with that slippage the more parts you probably going to end up replacing. btw this doesnt sound like something that would be in your VB unless its just water blocking a passage. I think at minimum you need to do a good flush. use the cheapest oil you can get to flush it then after you test it out maybe go up in grade. but dont go expensive because you might just be dumping it again. So anyway um as far as hydraulic or atf compressing no it doesnt. well at least not measurably really
10-13-2006, 09:53 AM
#68
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well if you replace the torque converter you can do this on your own just pull all three plugs then drop both pans and drain whats left. and you will have all new fluid. let the trans drain for a couple hours to make sure you got most of it. and then refill.
If you dont replace the Torque converter your going to have to have a shop do it with a gooffy machine cause you cant get all of the water out of the TC. actually now that i think about it i dont think that even a shop could get it out cause waters heavier then the hydraulic oil and wont want to come back out of the TC even with a flush.
Think your best bet is to replace the TC then drain it yourself
If you dont replace the Torque converter your going to have to have a shop do it with a gooffy machine cause you cant get all of the water out of the TC. actually now that i think about it i dont think that even a shop could get it out cause waters heavier then the hydraulic oil and wont want to come back out of the TC even with a flush.
Think your best bet is to replace the TC then drain it yourself
10-13-2006, 11:12 AM
#70
Registered User
yeah but where would the steem go once inside the tc it would creat an air bubble at the top of the tc wouldnt it then it would condense when the tranny cooled???
he can probably pick up a used tc from a yard for 50-75 bucks
he can probably pick up a used tc from a yard for 50-75 bucks
10-13-2006, 11:54 AM
#71
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I'd say that there's enough turbulance and flow inside the TC to thoroughly mix up the water and tranny fluid, throughout the entire transmission. But we're all nitpicking now.
10-13-2006, 01:31 PM
#73
Registered User
yes and you will have to drop tranny, that would be the easiest.
And steve hit it on the head. lol i forgot. i just emptied the back half of the T/Case (btw this is how i know that the back have and the front half are seperate.) The Rear portion of the T/Case had a milky Pink fluid not the nice red fluid it should be. What made it that way Water i didnt empty it after submerging the T/Case and the vent had let water in. The Front half was nice and Red well a little brownish but RED.
Anyway even with this mixing up you would have to change the fluid like 3 or more times to get it most of the way out. which would be easier. if you go that way i would buy the cheapest fluid you can find and dump it in there. changing it at least 3 times. then Put GOOD fluid in it. the last time just change it the dont drop pans until you up good fluid in.
And steve hit it on the head. lol i forgot. i just emptied the back half of the T/Case (btw this is how i know that the back have and the front half are seperate.) The Rear portion of the T/Case had a milky Pink fluid not the nice red fluid it should be. What made it that way Water i didnt empty it after submerging the T/Case and the vent had let water in. The Front half was nice and Red well a little brownish but RED.
Anyway even with this mixing up you would have to change the fluid like 3 or more times to get it most of the way out. which would be easier. if you go that way i would buy the cheapest fluid you can find and dump it in there. changing it at least 3 times. then Put GOOD fluid in it. the last time just change it the dont drop pans until you up good fluid in.
10-13-2006, 01:34 PM
#74
Registered User
ive got both heads off of the block right now as well as all of the accessories save the AC compressor....do you think it would be easier to just finish and pull the engine with that in mind?
When I unbolt the bell housing from the ... block(?) the engine should just slide forward (or the transmission slide back?) Ive never done this kinda stuff before and the Toyota FSM isnt quite clear...
When I unbolt the bell housing from the ... block(?) the engine should just slide forward (or the transmission slide back?) Ive never done this kinda stuff before and the Toyota FSM isnt quite clear...
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 10-13-2006 at 01:39 PM.
10-13-2006, 02:06 PM
#75
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if you left the front torsion bar on the truck. the engine will slide forward when you take the 4 mounting bolts loose from the frame mounts. and the tranny will just sit down on the Torsion Bar.
depens on what your doing with the engine i mean if your that far into it its not that much farther to pull the block.
and you would get all the water out for sure. problem is that you may or may not have done damage to the clutch packs already.
its about 250 for the rebuild kit for the tranny. it was about 290 i think for the tranfer case.
depens on what your doing with the engine i mean if your that far into it its not that much farther to pull the block.
and you would get all the water out for sure. problem is that you may or may not have done damage to the clutch packs already.
its about 250 for the rebuild kit for the tranny. it was about 290 i think for the tranfer case.
10-13-2006, 02:06 PM
#76
Contributing Member
ive got both heads off of the block right now as well as all of the accessories save the AC compressor....do you think it would be easier to just finish and pull the engine with that in mind?
When I unbolt the bell housing from the ... block(?) the engine should just slide forward (or the transmission slide back?) Ive never done this kinda stuff before and the Toyota FSM isnt quite clear...
When I unbolt the bell housing from the ... block(?) the engine should just slide forward (or the transmission slide back?) Ive never done this kinda stuff before and the Toyota FSM isnt quite clear...
Last edited by mt_goat; 10-13-2006 at 02:07 PM.
10-13-2006, 02:49 PM
#78
Registered User
Is the driveplate for the torque converter bolted to the flywheel of the engine? If so how does one unbolt that first?
EDIT:
They say a picture is worth 1000 words so is this like the 340h's tranny-tc-driveplate?
EDIT:
They say a picture is worth 1000 words so is this like the 340h's tranny-tc-driveplate?
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 10-13-2006 at 02:54 PM.
10-13-2006, 03:42 PM
#79
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After you remove that dust shield (4 bolts), there will be just enough room to get a wrench in there and remove the (5 or 6 bolts) that hold the TC to the drive plate. You can only get to them one at a time, so you must rotate the crank around to get each drive plate bolt clocked at 6:00. Caution: Don't turn the crank by the crank pulley bolt because you may loosen it. When you reinstall the TC to drive plate bolts there is one bolt that has a bigger shoulder than the rest (should be a different color too) that bolt goes in first to align the rest of the bolt holes.
10-13-2006, 04:35 PM
#80
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I went back and re-read the thread, at least the part before I was told to read it, and see nothing about the tranny fluid being too cold, except for efficincy. so what harm is there, or are my reading comprehension skills too low?
Last edited by trythis; 10-13-2006 at 04:41 PM.
