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89 toyota truck load sensing proportioning valve
11-29-2011, 02:41 PM
#21
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Location: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
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No matter what position the valve is in there should be some braking in the rear.
Its going to be a lot less in the down position (No load). But the brakes don't totally shut down the rear unless theres a malfunction. Adjustments aren't to blame.
Its going to be a lot less in the down position (No load). But the brakes don't totally shut down the rear unless theres a malfunction. Adjustments aren't to blame.
11-29-2011, 06:27 PM
#22
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My point was the valve on my truck WAS stuck and absolutely no brake fluid at all was going to the rear brakes. The only way I found out was because I decided to change the brake fluid out in my entire brake system and found that when I tried to bleed the back brakes no fluid was making it to the back brakes at all. The valve was defective in this case so no adjustment would have made any difference. When a new valve is installed there are adjustments made with a certain amount of weight placed in the back of the bed and meters placed on the front and back brakes to determine how much braking is in the back. At least that is what the installation specifications I found indicated. I still think that this is a potential safety issue because there could possibly be a lot of trucks with defective valves on the road.
11-29-2011, 11:01 PM
#24
Mine did not look that nice. One of the lines coming out of the LSPV rusted through and was leaking in my 88. I removed the rusted paperweight and got a Summit Racing brand of manual proportioning valve. I mounted the manual valve near the master cylinder and plugged the fitting on the tee (by the right front tire) that the return line came back to from the LSPV. I used the old brake line fitting filled with JB Weld. Worked like a charm.
I'm with you Magnusian. Rip it out and use a manual proportioning valve. One less bleeder...
I just took the hunk of trash that was left of my LSPV off on the weekend, it'd been bypassed by the PO with a manually adjustable bias valve and what was left of it was a rusted mass of something and old brake fluid. I'd suggest dealing with LSPV issues by removing it and going that route, you can even put the manual valve in the cab for on the go adjustments! Infinitely cheaper too!
11-30-2011, 02:55 PM
#26
That thing (LSPV) was so rusted and the boot dry rotted, that I doubt it was doing anything anyway. I knew a guy a guy at the dealer at one time and I think he quoted me his price for the LSPV for $75 to $100, if I recall correctly. A manual valve is cheaper.
11-30-2011, 03:25 PM
#27
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rear brakes with abs- power steering pump
I had the same issue- albeit with a 91 with a 3.0. My rear brake issue was resolved by changing out the power steering pump which supplies the power 
as the ABS actuator. $54 at Autozone. here is the reference to the FSM:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/absactua.pdf
as the ABS actuator. $54 at Autozone. here is the reference to the FSM:http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/absactua.pdf
12-01-2011, 04:12 AM
#28
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I had the same issue- albeit with a 91 with a 3.0. My rear brake issue was resolved by changing out the power steering pump which supplies the power as the ABS actuator. $54 at Autozone. here is the reference to the FSM:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/absactua.pdf
as the ABS actuator. $54 at Autozone. here is the reference to the FSM:http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/absactua.pdf
04-29-2014, 02:00 PM
#31
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Hello, I'm new to the forum. I'm looking for a load sensing proportional valve with the arm the comes with it. I have a 1988 Toyota 4x4 and mine is froze up and the arm is bent. Anyone know where I can get one?? Any help is much appreciated.
I have no idea why everyone is so down on Toyota dealers.
02-15-2015, 12:54 PM
#36
Your best bet is the junkyard.
The dealer is a source of last resort due to the very high prices, but then again its NOS your getting not a hand me down and you should expect to pay for that.
That said; you can convert the truck to a single line with a proportioning valve from Jegs, or Summit that are used on racing cars. You have to make changes because the proportioning valve is a return type and the return gets eliminated when you make the modification.
Now really that valve doesn't do much, mine is zip tied to the frame so I get some rear braking action. also the lift kills the bar anyway, so why bother.
The dealer is a source of last resort due to the very high prices, but then again its NOS your getting not a hand me down and you should expect to pay for that.
That said; you can convert the truck to a single line with a proportioning valve from Jegs, or Summit that are used on racing cars. You have to make changes because the proportioning valve is a return type and the return gets eliminated when you make the modification.
Now really that valve doesn't do much, mine is zip tied to the frame so I get some rear braking action. also the lift kills the bar anyway, so why bother.
02-16-2015, 11:37 AM
#37
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11-07-2016, 06:55 AM
#39
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would a none functioning valve lead to a hard pedal?
engine off - pump pedal till its gets hard and hold it - start engine - pedals goes down a bit - still hard to press whilst driving.
if you stand-up on it, it stops de van but.. its hard to press almost like its not getting any assist.
engine off - pump pedal till its gets hard and hold it - start engine - pedals goes down a bit - still hard to press whilst driving.
if you stand-up on it, it stops de van but.. its hard to press almost like its not getting any assist.
11-07-2016, 12:33 PM
#40
Ok; Forget your plan. plug the correct return feed line from the right front wheel well. Disconnect that line from the LVPS and install a manual adjuster valve. check for proper operation.
The LVPS back feeds the front brakes. Mine are disconnected. I have one that's pretty, one that's rotted. Not worth the cost of shipping.
