pete f

The circuit opening relay (cor) is located in the cab passenger side kickplate right above your ecu . It is the relay with the metal bracket attached to it.

88yotadad

My fuse box looks different as it is L shaped and has fuses on one leg and a relay on the other leg. I assume that is the EFI relay. I tried the puill the relay and then install with the key in the ON position. Nothing happened so then I tested the socket for the relay and I have 12V at the relay socket. Then I put 12V to the relay with some jumper wires and the relay did not click. I tested the relay with my Ohm meter and on the 12V side and I get a 1 and on the other side .82 for continuity. These Ohm meter readings I think are right but with the relay does not clicking when 12V are applied makes me think the relay is not working.
Roger

pete f

I bought mine from toyota dealer for $17.00 . Another thing I tried was with the relay out and the key on. I jumped the two terminals on the left side and I could hear the EFI system energize . I even got the truck to turn over and almost start. Make sure you give him the part # off of the relay. I tried to get one from advanced and they sold me the wrong one.

thook

If the relay doesn't click/energize when you turn the key to ignition (and the EFI fuse is good...which it is because not only did you test it, but you are getting 12v's to the relay....which also means everything up to the relay is good) then it is not working....correct.

If I may share some advice....
Get a relay from O'Reilly. In the event you install the relay and it does not solve the problem (this you can apply to any other part/problem you may have), you can return it. Toyota does not afford that luxury. Atleast the one here doesn't. Plus, the relay will have a lifetime warranty and they work just fine. I have one in my '92. And like Pete said, have the part number. They may call it something different....like "fuel injection relay".

The fact that it's not working, though, is a good indicator that it's atleast part of the problem...lol. I say that because of how many times I've found there to be more than one thing wrong. Hopefully (and probably), the relay is all of yours.

Thanks for chiming in, Pete. Big help!

88yotadad

I went to my local parts store that is owned by friends and the relay was going to cost $90 and 3 days. Toyota is going to cost me $56 and will be here tomorrow.
I jumpered the relay wiring and still did not activate the fuel pump so I probaly still have more issues.
Thanks for all the help.
Roger

thook

Well, that's odd. Atleast, I don't recall paying even near that for my relay. Hmmmm....oh well.

So, you know you're getting 12v's to the relay. Now determine if you're getting that past the relay. The break in continuity is somewhere.....maybe at the relay terminal or after it.

Good luck, Roger. I feel for ya. I don't think I know one person that really likes electrical gremlins.

DOLO

I'm having a similar prob with my 22RE. No juice to fuel pump and couldn't locate COR until I read this thread. I'm hoping the tips you guys posted will still apply. Thanks for the thread Roger and good luck! I'll get to mine tomorrow night and follow the tips here. Printing to commence in 3....2......1


Thanks all,
ed

thook

FYI, Roger, if you haven't gotten a relay, yet, O'Reilly has them for $36.....jus' so's ya know.

88yotadad

First off thanks for all the help thook and pete f. It is solved.
After I installed the relay still no fuel so I went back and retested the relay for the EFI that is on drivers side kick panel fuse panel. When I applied 12v it did not engage and it was fine before. I tried a couple times and then I checked my jumper wires for continuity. Damn; one of the wires has a break. This is maybe why the relay I replaced did not work when tested.
I reinstalled the relay in the panel by driver foot and decided to test the fuses. Two 7.5 v fuses where blown. I changed the fuses and I have FUEL.
This was an expensive lesson for me and my backyard mechanic status took a hit but the problem is solved.
I still have a fuel leak as the last person who changed the filter damaged the threads on the line. I already replaced one line and will have to do the other.
Cost so far.
80amp fuse $12
fuel filter $16
fuel pump bracket $180
EFI relay $56
fuel line $60
2 7.5 fuses $1
Lots of lessons learned.
Still cheaper than if I had taken it to Toyota to fix.
Once again guys thanks a bunch.
Roger

thook

Ahhh....but that's how any good backyard mechanic learns: PAIN!!!!

I'm just glad you found the....uh....problem....lol. What a bugger. I don't know how we could've overlooked that jumper wire. It's a common problem on Toyotas....

I'm just kidding, Roger. You'll find even "the professionals" run into crap like that. But, like you said....still cheaper than going to Toyota....or any other mechanic. And, I'll bet you never make that mistake again. Well.....hopefully.

88yotadad

The motors running and we bled the brakesall was going well. Now it seems that we have no oil pressure. Damn. I'm going to start a new thread.

thook

I'll meet ya there!

KennyD4Rnner

I have studied this thread and used it as a bible to try and solve my fuel pump problem, but....I still have no power at the connection before the fuel pump unless I use the jumper(Fp/+B?) which shows 12V+/-. I have 12V at the dio. box(+B), at the efi fuse, the efi main relay, and at the COR. I tested my COR and it checks out. I tested the efi main relay and it checks out. I do have a question about the testing procedure for the efi main relay, as the link in this thread was not the same relay as mine (labeled 1,2,3,4). Even after using the jumper and getting 12V at the fuel pump, my truck will still not start and I don't hear the fuel pump cutting on. My guess is I will need a new fuel pump, but I want to figure out why I'm not getting power back there first.


'88 3.0 v6 4Runner

KennyD4Rnner

So you don't have power at the fuel pump unless you use the jumper, as the fuel pump does not receive power until the truck starts...so I'm replacing my fuel pump.

thook

You could try hot wiring the fuel directly to the battery before you install the new pump. Verify it doesn't work that way you're not stuck with a new part you didn't need. But, it does sound like it's bad.

KennyD4Rnner

thanks thook. I'm gonna give that a try this afternoon. Does a fuel pump usually so signs of its emanate death? I ask because i drove my truck that morning to work with no problems, then that afternoon it would not crank. Thats why I went through the whole electrical system first.

KennyD4Rnner

So i replaced my fuel pump, after testing the old one, and she cranked right up. Funny(or not so funny at 10:00 pm working with a headlamp on) thing was where my boss(certified mechanic) had unhooked the fuel line at the motor to check if i was even getting fuel on my first day of diagnosing, he failed to tell me he had dropped the copper washer and hooked it back up anyways. Thank god i checked under the hood before driving off last night as there was gas sprayed everywhere. Anyhow, shes all good now and thats whats important. THANKS yotatech members!

P.S. Has anyone had problems getting the fuel line fitting loose coming out of the pump? The one right beside the inlet pipes in that tiny hole between the chassis and the body. Mine was a bear until the end. Thank god for channel locks!