g_cali

^ alright buddy take a chill pill...

But yes, its normal to back it up in reverse to switch from 4-wheel back into 2-wheel.

apoc34

Ok just got back from the garage. They checked all bushings , tie rod ends, ball joints and they were all good. He said the ideler arm had very little slack in it not enough to hurt anything.

It was out of line, the toe and camber had to be adjusted. But it still does it. I did find out some more info though. It only does it when the gas pedal is engaged. I can go 20 - 30 mph with the gas pedal down and it will sway from left to right but if i lift off the gas it goes straight as an arrow.

fishon1213

You never know, a previous owner could have welded the front or something.

To test you could jack up the front, spin a tire by hand, and see which direction the other one spins

tried4x2signN

only other thing... oh please god don't let it be... is either a locker in the front, or welded...

Lock ONE hub, put the TC in 2H and get under the truck and try and turn the front drive shaft. If it's open the other shaft will just spin. Locked or welded it won't move.


I feel for ya if it's welded... To find out if it has a locker, you have to jack one wheel up. Give it some good elbow and try and turn the wheel. Once it pops out it'll make a knock knock knock noise as you turn the tire... (the ratchet noise ppl with lockers hear in a turn)

That's normal. Once it's under torque the pinion will push the inside parts of the lockers out into the outer pieces and lock the axle or the dog clutches will lock if it's a Detroit Locker.

jrobertson4runnner

the movement when you push on the gas sounds like what my parents expedition did when the rear end started to go out. Hope that's not whats goin on, but it may be.

apoc34

Ok I am a little confused, how can I tell if its been welded? Jack one side of the front up and spin the tire? Both tires should spin the same right or just the one i spin?

I can also check by locking in only one hub putting it in 2h and try to move the front driveshaft? Is it suppose to be able to spin or not move? Sorry guys I am just not a mechanical kind of guy to know these things, always willing to learn though lol. Actually I am already learning just from the responses.

I am getting another 4runner in a few days for parts it has decent body, top, auto tranny and rear ends for only 200 bucks that might come in handy before this over this is very difficult finding out what this problem is./

Ok sorry I re read what you said, so it should spin freely and if its locked or welded it wont move, if it locked I can jack one side up, lock one hub , put in 2h and spin the tire until it unlocks. If it doesnt then Im prolly looking at it being welded. If its welded does that mean i have to get a whole new TC? The guy who owned it is a toyota mechanic and he has loads of parts I wouldnt think he would weld it but he did turn out to be shady and lied about tons of things.

When i jack one wheel up to spin it do I need to have both hubs locked in and in 2H?

Thanks for your time guys this is helping me out alot, I really appreciate it.

tried4x2signN

Anything in 4WD, 4High or 4Low, if the hubs work or not you won't be able to turn the shaft... Think about it... The drive shaft is engaged inside the TC.

Read mine and the other guy's post again, separately... you're getting the two confused...


EDIT:

Correct, but my way you don't need to jack anything up and drag won't be making something turn that shouldn't be.

But you only need to lock ONE.

Negative. You have to lock both hubs to further investigate WHAT is in the diff.


No, front diff... The whole thing... And the one you get for parts you have to change both diffs unless the ratios are the same.
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger... And see above.

Junkers88

Just something off the top of my head. A gear driven t-case will not bind unless there is something else wrong. I've had a couple and I've never had to back up to shift. Now chain cases on the other hand tend to build chain torque and need to be backed up or rolled forward in neutral to release chain tension. In the rig I have now, and the 86 before this one, I could easily shift from 4low up to 4hi and into 2hi while on the trail just as long as I wasn't crossed up in an obstacle.

Oh and I read through my Toyota owners manual and found NOTHING that said you had to back up to shift out of 4wd.

tried4x2signN

You mean like turning? Or tires smaller or bigger b/c of air pressure or manufacturing?

As far as I know no one's ever had a problem shifting from 4h to 4L. The only problems I know of are going from 4WD to 2WD?

Gears mean everything HAS to be EXACT. No exceptions. Once it loads up it has to come off somehow. Shifting in soft areas (where you're only supposed to use part-time 4WD anyway: "For Off-the-Road soft sandy or slippery road") you'll prolly never know it. Hard snow or dirt hard enough to build bind and you will.

Regardless, that's what it is. I've had it so bad I almost broke the lever and I was sweating bullets I F'd it up...


Maybe Toyota took it for granted that a customer buying a 4WD would have enough common sense to understand this already?

Junkers88

Nope.

Again Nope. The twin stick I had worked like it was supposed to.

Gears do not "load". If they did the our front and rear diffs would have issues. Chains "load" NP205, NP203, any divorced chain drive t-case will load tension. Gear driven cases do not.

I ran Scouts with both the 345 and SD33 NA Chrysler Nissan diesel with both the Dana 20 and Dana 300 (GEAR driven) and if you had your rig so bound up that you broke something then I think the nut behind the steering wheel was at fault. I ran 4:88 full spools on the diesel and never broke anything other than a tail light or two and added some dents.

Nope. Wrong again.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

heheheh

Junkers88

Indeed.

tried4x2signN

dude, load is bind... I have no idea what 4WD you're driving that doesn't suffer from this... And diffs don't bind b/c they've got...DIFF's! Without them they'd be? Long shot here, SPOOLS! And yeah, nobody's EVER complained about a spool...

I guess every warning label on EVERY 4WD (NOT FULL-TIME, Part-time) is wrong?

And I'm so glad you've got a twin stick... Maybe next time when the subject of factory options come up, you'll have more to tell us?

And NP205 is not a chain... At least on my planet...

tried4x2signN

ok, cool... Totally misunderstood you. So my 84 Hilux can be AWD? I can drive it on the road in 4WD?

That's what you're saying right? B/c if it did not load, I'd be able to drive it in 4WD on road, and be able to shift freely between 2H and 4WD, right?

IngSoc

I have to do it in my rig some times, throw it in reverse for 6inchs then I can take it out of 4wd.

apoc34

I am going to take it to the garage tomorrow and do the checks like you said. We have over a foot of snow here so I dont want to get out in it to test it lol.

Hopefully we can find something that will explain why its walking all over the road, its so bad when the gas pedal is down that its very hard to keep it straight its pulling hard left and hard right, I let up on the gas and its straight as an arrow lol, weird. Roads are so click right now I have no choice to run it in 4h.

Hopefully tomorrow our non licensed mechanics can help lol. in WV seems everyone think they are a mechanic ....

Oh ya btw I tried going in reverse then putting it in 2h and it works alot better. I have owned new vehicles for the past 6 years and I am not used to doing that , lol I totally forgot.

Junkers88

Man I am way too drunk tonight to even try this argument, but I'll try.

Load is a relative aspect relating to weight and or stress. Bind is a situation related to forces on either end of a fulcrum. <--edit* (Now that makes no sense, how drunk was I?)

Saying our diffs do not bind because they have "DIFFS" is like saying my feet don't get sore while walking because they have 'FEET". You spoke of gears creating a "load" and that "load" creates a stress on the gears which need a release (back up for a few feet). In this instance you are wrong. Deal with it.

I have never owned a full time 4WD vehicle so I can't answer that. I do know that a part time 4wd vehicle has some inherit issues. My vehicle is a selective 4wd (just like yours) so this comment is useless.

The operative word here is "had". I "had" a twin stick. I actually have one on order for the GEAR DRIVEN TRANSFER CASE that I have so I can "open and close" the front locker. As far as factory options go Toyota did a damn good job of offering us several options. No the twin stick was not one of those options. I apologize if I made that assessment.


Ok you got me there. My mistake I thought it was chain driven.

Only if you lock in the hubs and put the t-case in 4hi/low.

Yes. I do it on a daily basis. I lock the hubs in when we have snow and drive to work. If I hit an area that is snowed over I can push in the clutch (at low speeds <20mph) and shift into 4hi. It's not that hard to understand.

Thanks for the conversation. I have enjoyed this.

hodgepodge79

I have an Aussie Locker in mine and it act like this on snow scattered roads.

lonewolf379

not sure but i just went into my 1990 after i put a new rear axle in it and drive 300 miles and found my rear avle went out again and the rear was pushing the front end all over come to find out the previous owner had changed out the front end and not matched the gearing with the back end the front was 4 10 gear ratio and the back was 4 56 I had to find new rear gears to make things work i would try to lift the front and back on one side and lock the 4 wheel drive and turn the wheels at least 10 revolutions to see if the gears are the same you might of had a previos owner like i had that didnt check the ratio and just put it together and sent it on its way down the road make sure and check about 5 revolutions that they are still matched the gearing is so close that it takes about ten to make the diferance show hope this helps

apoc34

Ok guys I found out what the problem is. Apparently the first garage i went to , to check out the front end and alignment are a bunch of morons. I took it to another garage and the said both outer tie rod ends are bad, pitman arms are bad, my steering stablizer is busted and shot oil all over the engine and front. So i have to get all that fixed and the other garage said everything was good, I hate WV mechanics. Thanks for all the help...