ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

That too... All the wires, as I mentioned, should be verified 'solid', no breaks, exposed positive wires, etc.. There should be an STA fuse as well... which I would think you'd blow while arcing out all over the place... But usually, it either breaks the fusible link or 80A or Main Fuse. Mine has almost every time, anyhow. Sure, it will arc on stuff and NOT short fuses... fusible links.... but if you have NO JUICE to the dash, at all? Yeah, something's def. amiss.

Drillin_guy

That engine compartment is beautiful Chef!! Wow, Im jealous!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, man! Was a lllllllllllllllllllllot of work, lol... But hey, I had time to kill while I waited for stuff, ya know? That's the 'first rebuild', btw, lol.... I helped machine, then assembled, etc., this entire sucker just a couple months ago... after that red one was deSTROYED by my first machinist! Grrr! lol>>>



Ooh, and I DID change that wire, ...I can see it's red, heat shrinked, soldered..... Had the orig. wire in there before.... and it caused some issues with idle bounce, etc., for sure! When I'd hit the brakes, it would drop idle down, the lights on, even more idle drop, etc. Now, same top end stuffs, all new grounds, new Positive wiring, etc., NOT A GLITCH in voltage! lol.

linkspast

Man, that thing is clean. Very nice. Ill get a new wire in there.
and yeah no juice to the dash. Its like the battery is not in at all..
(it is)

linkspast

ok.. So I got that wire in, and nothing.

Also Im looking at that 80 amp fuse and it looks a bit corroded.. How do I get that little sucker outa there.

and is that something that I would have to order special form the dealer or would a local auto parts store have one ?


EDIT:
I got the fuse out, They do sell them at the local parts store, and no that was not my problem..

Im at a loss. .

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I turned a corner one time and the battery slid and put the positve terminal into the fender.

Been said already, but I would check fuses and ground wires. Here is the link to ground wires. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

bob200587

My first thought as well.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, very much! And, hmmm, ..... sounds like you shorted something out, badly. Check your battery that it didn't bounce off the hood/firewall/AC Hose/Radiator! lol. WHATEVER, just make sure it didn't arc on something and fry a relay/fuse/fusible link or 2.... gotta keep searching. (Edit, ... just read forward on my laptop when in the kitchen,..... Terry just covered that, the "BATTERY IS TRYING TO ESCAPE" theory, lol. )

One thing you said is telling, at least it COULD be, lol...... "it looks a bit corroded"... That can be a problem with things, at times. They don't like corrosion, obviously, but also, there are relays all over that look fine on the outside prongs, ....but inside, they can be corroded.

This would not be the C.O.R., so if that comes up, ignore it, lol. C.O.R. only completes the circuit that turns on the Fuel Pump.

Starter relay? Hmmm, not sure, but doubtful it would stop the juice-communication between battery to Ignition/Dash/EVERYTHING! You could check it out though, Via FSM diagnosis checklist, ya know?

You didn't answer the question, not that I can see, Links, .... "IS THAT A BURN MARK on the rear firewall behind the head where you just replaced that wire?????" Those questions gotta get answers, as it helps YOU develop a checklist, Process of Elimination(POE) and it can TOTALLY lead us toward something.

If you have a multi-meter, the first thing I'd do is start testing my grounds, all of them, for a "Good Ground" reading(it's all over, how to test grounds(including 4crawler.com, cheap tricks, how to use a multi-meter)..... <<< NO INTENTION of suggesting you don't already know how to do all that! Just needs to be done, trying to save some time chasing the tail, etc.

Then, via a checklist through the FSM, work through a detailed POE and start ruling out EVERYTHING the Dealership foreman would check on..... yeah?

One more thing..... reading a battery at 12V is not that simple....... Do you you have another car to put it in? Can you try to jump another car off it? While doing so, connect your multi-meter to it, and then, as it takes a gnarly load, CHECK IT WHILE IT'S LOADING, K? If you don't have such things, just take the battery to the local store, ask them, "Can you please load test this thing???? "THIS" happened, and I just have to rule it out in my POE!"

linkspast

Allright, so Im going to check all those locations in the link Terry provided.

I replaced that 80amp fuse. Kinda a PITA but its out.

Ive had a runaway battery once before but I fixed it with a few well placed bungee cords

I do have another Car I can test in in later as well as another battery.


What is a C.O.R, and POE?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

C.O.R.; Circuit Open Relay (completes the circuit for the fuel pump to come on. You can hear it click as you turn the key over..... WHEN there is actually power! lol) The COR would not be your problem, 99.9999% sure.

P.O.E.; Process of Elimination<<<< a DETAILED one, that I've tried, with each 'issue' in my build thread, to update, meticulously, each time I rule something out/conclude something is a problem..... has been CRUCIAL to my learning curve/percentage of resolutions through my threads via other posters, etc.

I also mentioned/asked, in a sense, "You're very apt with how to use a Multi-Meter for all purposes? >> i.e. Checking Grounds, Resistance, Voltage readings?" Which I mention because, while I was fine with one for basic tests, battery voltage, alternator voltage, etc., I read 4crawler's cheap tricks technical write up on "TPS adjustment" and the Multi-Meter section, therein, and realized I was doing a couple things wrong......

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...oUseAnOhmMeter

And his MAIN page is a gift from TOYO-HEAVEN! lol>>>>

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml

He's a master electrician and Toyota Guru, pretty much, ..... and he's often very willing to help out on a thread like this or answer a PM...... His name's Roger, and he's a GREAT help to many! lol.

************************************************** ************

The grounds check is important

The Main wire to Starter is Important

The Positive Terminal to Fusible Link wire is important(VERY.... You could try running a jumper there to see if you get power) That link wire is the one that goes to the 80A fuse you replaced. Yes, the fuse can blow, ...but so can the fusible link(it's a wire with a forced break in it if something overloads, to keep it from getting to the battery, backflow of power, if the 80A isn't effective for whatever reason).

Might try checking the 'MAIN' fuse, as well(for a V6, but main relay is in the same spot, kick panel/driver side. >>>>>


You could also try, after making sure it's safe, run a jumper to the IGN section of your kick panel aux power box in the driver foot area... just to see if you CAN get power to the Dash(this would be if you have a major short in the dash/ign/something along the path between the key and battery/alt.

Watching and wishin ya the best!

PS> One more time.... "Where you replaced that wire to back of the head...... was that BLACK CHARRING FROM ARCING ON THE FIREWALL?" In other words... did something short out there???

This might help some as you learn where everything is/what it does, etc..>>>

linkspast

Yeah Ive ran across 4crawlers site in the past, pretty helpful.
I just went through all the grounds. well at least the four from that link Terry provided. and it looked like they were all good. Except the one which I showed earlier in the thread. I have since replaced it. Im not sure if those black arcing marks on the fire wall were there already or not. Im going to see if I can find photos that prove this.

But if it was arcing, I would assume a fuse has been blown, right?

"The Positive Terminal to Fusible Link wire is important"
where is this? is this just the wire from the battery to that 80amp fuse? or is it something more? and if its not, then where inline is it, before or after the 80amp fuse?

Also Im trying to get a FSM, but Im not having too much luck Ive seen a few links on here to FSM but there all dead.. Ideally Id like to get a hard copy of one. But i dont want to wait.

I think Im going to open the steering column to see if there is anything amiss in there...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Fusible link is between the terminal and 80A.

Far as the arcing... not sure a blown fuse would 'cause' it, as much as a 'short would cause arcing and then.........pooof, blow the fuse'?

Far as the FSM .... there should be tons on here..... but go figure, I can't remember which thread I got mine on! lol.......... WAIT, ..... HERE IT IS.... it's for an 88-specific, but should do the trick, no problem, for troubleshooting this issue you're having... Download it anyway, ya know? >>>>>>>

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> ....did you check the "MAIN FUSE" ???

linkspast

This is what I was trying to say..


Awesome Awesome Awesome!
Thanks for the FSM link. Ill look it over at work..

Im pretty sure I checked the main.
There were 3 things down in the fuse box by the floor on the drivers side one labeled breaker was black and yellow..
and 2 silver cylinder like things..
the one labeled breaker i tested for and it seamed to work..
also in the Fuse box in the engine bay I there is a box (fuse maybe) labeled HEAD. I dont know what that does but it seams good too.

linkspast

Ill be at work so .. Not much more I can do today, other than look over the FSM.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I believe it's the "Headlight" Main Fusible link. (HEAD)

You understand which wire is the main power feed wire to the Fusible Link Box, right? Maybe check between the Terminal and 80A fuse contact with said wire and see if you're getting 12V on the 80A side? Make sense? (I know, you're not home.... just let me know you get it, lol).

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

It is the white wire that Chef is talking about. My hand is holding the link and attached wire. Here is a pic.

Hadmatt54

Have you verified for sure that your battery is good. You measured 12 volts, but that doesn't mean that it's not shorted. Hook up your voltmeter so that you can see the display from the cab, it should read 12v like you said earlier, then turn the key to the start position, if your digital voltmeter goes blank or your sweep(analog)voltmeter goes to zero or close to zero your battery has shorted plates and needs to go to the recycle depot.

Terry from the above picture just above your hand is a red crimped butt splice if I were you I'd cut it out take another butt splice strip the insulation off of it, use it as a sleeve, strip the insulation off of both sides of the cut wire so that they each go halfway into the sleeve and solder it back together and then heat shrink it with the heat shrink that has glue in it to seal the connection. From past experience, a crimped connector of any kind has no business being in an auto wiring harness where you have to deal with moisture, heating and cooling and ultimately corrision!

linkspast

Well I'm still at work so I can't verify this but that wire terry is showing looks like mine except its not connected to anything... If that makes sense.. If there is light I'll check that when I get home.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I would bet dollars to donuts, what you just said tells it all! >> YOU'RE DEAD IN THE WATER w/out that wire being connected to your fusible link/80A fuse/distribution plate!!

The only thing I can GUESS on, in regards to it 'limping home', is that you blew that inline-fusible link, somewhere on the way home, yet somehow, the rig kept running off the alternator? I'm still kind of baffled,.... but it's possible that the wire was hanging on by a thread and got you home, but you went to restart, 'POOF', bubye! lol

For now, I'm TOTALLY guessing since you can't be sure it's even connected, right? So get home, then either take a picture or report back as to whether you blew the fusible link.

PS> The PO might have it wired differently to the 80A/Etc., that the power wire there feeds.... so make sure you don't have a wire coming from your Positive Terminal that runs to that 80A Junction plate underneath.

PSS> There's a reason there's a fusible link there.... And one of them is to avoid a battery being rendered useless by a backflow of 14.5 Volts and 700amps or so, via the alternator. Yes, the 80A is supposed to be that break... But the Factory still put that fusible link(BREAKER) there for extra security. Make sense? LOTS of guys run a 4G wire or so to that 80A fuse, never using a fusible link(breaker/inline fuse of sorts) afterwards.