4:88 gears in 94 pickup
#21
the only thing holding me back is that i already have a spare front end with 4:88s, so i guess i will go with those. i feel that i would rather have the 5:29s, but the headache and $ to go that route may not be worth it. if the 4:88s will improve the mileage and help with take offs, then thats fine.
now...where to get them for the best $? what brand as wel? yukon?
now...where to get them for the best $? what brand as wel? yukon?
#22
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Get a set of factory 4.88's.
They are sometimes hard to find but if you keep your eyes out at the junkyard (Pick and Pull), you can get a set for 4.88's (entire rear diff) for cheap.
I don't know what the prices are like in the states but in Canada. I can get a rear diff for $60 regardless of gear ratio.
If you find two, then you have a spare.
They are sometimes hard to find but if you keep your eyes out at the junkyard (Pick and Pull), you can get a set for 4.88's (entire rear diff) for cheap.
I don't know what the prices are like in the states but in Canada. I can get a rear diff for $60 regardless of gear ratio.
If you find two, then you have a spare.
#23
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reguarding jonnyboys comment he is comparing 5.71s to 4.11s good comparision. this forum is asking 4.88s to 5.29s if you would read a lil. might learn a thing. but if you already have 4.88s id stick with them great gear set
#26
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IIRC, you're looking for an 89-95 4runner with factory 31" tires and auto tranny. Axle code should be G144 and i believe there will be white paint on the pinion flange once d-shaft is removed.
if you already have an IFS 4.88 diff, then definitely go with the 4.88s. rear 4.88s can be found all over the place, it's the IFS 4.88 that is hard to come by. i dunno about finding the diff for $60 (maybe for a stock 4.10 diff that nobody wants, lol). I looked for my factory 4.88s for almost 6 months and had to jump on them as soon as I found them at a salvage shop, where I paid $450 for the set because they all know how much they're worth since they're in relatively high demand. everyone else i've heard of picking up factory 4.88s are paying anywhere from $200-600 depending on location and condition. if you decide you want to go with 5.29s in the future, find those first then swap and sell your 4.88s - it's not like you'll have a hard time selling them in the future.
too bad you weren't looking a couple weeks ago when AxleIke was selling a 4.88 rear diff with an ARB inside for $1000. But I think he found some broken teeth inside so he's no longer selling it.
if you already have an IFS 4.88 diff, then definitely go with the 4.88s. rear 4.88s can be found all over the place, it's the IFS 4.88 that is hard to come by. i dunno about finding the diff for $60 (maybe for a stock 4.10 diff that nobody wants, lol). I looked for my factory 4.88s for almost 6 months and had to jump on them as soon as I found them at a salvage shop, where I paid $450 for the set because they all know how much they're worth since they're in relatively high demand. everyone else i've heard of picking up factory 4.88s are paying anywhere from $200-600 depending on location and condition. if you decide you want to go with 5.29s in the future, find those first then swap and sell your 4.88s - it's not like you'll have a hard time selling them in the future.
too bad you weren't looking a couple weeks ago when AxleIke was selling a 4.88 rear diff with an ARB inside for $1000. But I think he found some broken teeth inside so he's no longer selling it.
#27
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Keystone, I did read and do know that comparison was 5.71 to 4.10. I would think whichever way the stronger or weaker lies(hadn't ever really thought about only 1 pinion tooth making contact as opposed to 2 like Thatguy said), the difference would be less between 4.88 and 5.29. Just saying, if it were me I'd spend the extra to get f+r 5.29's, sell the 4.88 front, and install them myself. Personal opinion, but I doubt he'll be disappointed with the 4.88's.
I also think the cv joints will be the weak point, not either diff.
Fountain, go with the ifs diff you have and get a factory 4.88 rear. Just know that the factory 4.88 diffs only accept factory 4.88 gears. In the event you do toast them, keep your old 4.10 diff as a spare that can accept aftermarket 4.88's or something.
I also think the cv joints will be the weak point, not either diff.
Fountain, go with the ifs diff you have and get a factory 4.88 rear. Just know that the factory 4.88 diffs only accept factory 4.88 gears. In the event you do toast them, keep your old 4.10 diff as a spare that can accept aftermarket 4.88's or something.
#29
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having a auto i figured 5.29's wouldn't be to bad. with 33's but it's not that bad at all with my 4.10's hell it will still get up and go.
#30
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83-older 4.11 diff's are 37/9 and are 8in 4cyl style diff's, in 84 they switched th the 41/10 ratio, any time you have more teeth to a pinion the stronger the diff will be, reason being: more tooth contact/more teeth contacting the ring gear at one time.
This is the same reason 5.71's are very weak, 6 teeth, 5.29's have 7, 4.88's and 4.38's have 8, 4.56's have 9 and 411's have 9, 410's have 10, and 390's have 10
This is the same reason 5.71's are very weak, 6 teeth, 5.29's have 7, 4.88's and 4.38's have 8, 4.56's have 9 and 411's have 9, 410's have 10, and 390's have 10
Tried and true
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 12-19-2011 at 06:31 PM.
#31
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I have been running 5.29s on 33s for about five years and what I can say is DONT do it. Unless you like a top speed of 65mph. If you plan on driving over 40 miles to get on your trail dont do it.
If you do 5.29s go with 35+ 4.88 per the gear chart is spot on for 33.
goodluck
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/gear-ratio-chart.htm
If you do 5.29s go with 35+ 4.88 per the gear chart is spot on for 33.
goodluck
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/gear-ratio-chart.htm
#32
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4.88's
i am running 33' tsl radials now and looking to bump up to 4:88 over the 4:10s. first off am i going enough? im torn between them and the 5:29s. i mostly drive around a small town and hunting . all pretty short distances, no long trips or freeways. with the 4:88s, i have already bought a front houding with gears and 4:88s.
another question is where to get the gears? is there a sponsor here that has some good deals on the gears i need? again, its a 94 regualar cab 22re 5 spd with 33" tsl radials.
another question is where to get the gears? is there a sponsor here that has some good deals on the gears i need? again, its a 94 regualar cab 22re 5 spd with 33" tsl radials.
I just thought I would mention that have a v6 third with 4.88 gears to get rid of. I robbed the side gear and spiders out of it but you could just install a locker or rob some spiders out of another v6 third. I'd take 50 if you want it. I need to find it a home. If someone hasn't mentioned it the 4.88 third is differen't, the casting is offset for the pinion. So getting factory 4.88 gears and installing them in a regular third won't work. When i took this one apart I marked the ring spacers and number of turns. So you wouldn't have to reset the side spacing for the gears, it would be back just as it was.
I'm running 5.29's with 33's on my truck right now and it would be over kill If I were to stay with 33's. I did the gear swap to go with 36 or 37's.
#33
Well I called the guys at east coast gears and they recommend the 4:88. After talking with them, I went with motive gear..he said they install them.a lot in their built riffs and they are tough and will last good. Not much good from the yukons I had originally called to order..not sure why.
I hope the motives hold up well..what y'all think?
I hope the motives hold up well..what y'all think?
#34
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I know this thread stopped almost a year ago... But I'm dying to find out how the Motive Gears worked out and if you guys have any complaints about them..
Have the IFS 7.5" 4.88 and install kit, and 8" 4.88 rear and install kit in "the cart" on east coast gears... This is for my 94 Toyota pickup, 22re 5spd. Lifted 4" on 33's. This is my daily driver that I just need to get me through the windy steep roads that I drive a lot. Not crawling, so I don't need "super strong gears". Also in on a tight budget cause of school.
Thanks.
Have the IFS 7.5" 4.88 and install kit, and 8" 4.88 rear and install kit in "the cart" on east coast gears... This is for my 94 Toyota pickup, 22re 5spd. Lifted 4" on 33's. This is my daily driver that I just need to get me through the windy steep roads that I drive a lot. Not crawling, so I don't need "super strong gears". Also in on a tight budget cause of school.
Thanks.
#37
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Thank you. And I plan on having them installed by a pro.
Will The 4.88's improve my gas mileage or make it worse.. Assuming that I'm driving like I should. Haha
Will The 4.88's improve my gas mileage or make it worse.. Assuming that I'm driving like I should. Haha
#38
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have 85 runner. 22re, mild build,header to 3" out muff,cold air intake,auto W/ OD, 4:88's,detroit in rear, 33x12.5x15 steel. 11" of total lift over stock. go's anywhere & 23+ mpg. 4:88's are the perfect set up. hits 80 on freeway w/ a li'l peadle left. and crawls arround great unless your looking for a top 10 hammer finish, best bang for the buck brother.
#39
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have 85 runner. 22re, mild build,header to 3" out muff,cold air intake,auto W/ OD, 4:88's,detroit in rear, 33x12.5x15 steel. 11" of total lift over stock. go's anywhere & 23+ mpg. 4:88's are the perfect set up. hits 80 on freeway w/ a li'l peadle left. and crawls arround great unless your looking for a top 10 hammer finish, best bang for the buck brother.
But you have an auto. Wouldn't that be like if got 4.56's instead? Cause aren't autos geared lower already? Not sure just hear that a lot..
#40
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11 inches of lift with 33's?
i have no lift with 33s. and there is a guy with 37s and no lift on a solid axle rig.
It should improve it a little bit. bring it back closer to stock.
i have no lift with 33s. and there is a guy with 37s and no lift on a solid axle rig.
It should improve it a little bit. bring it back closer to stock.