RobD

I second that.

bugguy68

Got the gear ratio from a chart on Toyota at Offroad.com and one other sorce, can't remember. My VIN starts with 4T and the code on the door jamb is A/TM B05B/150F, you guys let me know if you come up with something else. This i a US built truck originally bought in Utah. Haven't been able to find any info on what the 150F stands for though. Starting to look like the 4.88s are the way to go but just sounds like it will make an improvement, not a total fix for my tow wieght situation. I may have to limit it to local trips. Who would any of you recomending getting full built 3rd member set ups with a resonable price. Don't really have the time nor the expertice to do the gear changes my self.

tc

First, all kinds of things aren't matching up - I don't think Toyota was assembling trucks in the US in '92. (Although that is what your VIN says) Look on the frame in the passenger side wheelwell and see if the VIN stamped there agrees with the one on the dash. Can you post some pix?

Your axle code should start with a G (for 4WD) or maybe an F (if it's 2WD). No way it starts with a B (that would be a 5.7" ring gear)

150F is the tranny - it's the manual found behind all 3.0 and 3.4 V6's, a similar model was behind the turbos. One of the strongest trannies Toyota has ever made, believe the 2WD version was in the turbo supra.

Anyways, assuming you actually have a "normal" V6 5spd truck, you either have 4.10 (if it came with reg tires) or 4.56 (if it came with 31's). My guess is you have 4.56, as in my experience most all V6's have the 31" tire package, and you would have MAJOR problems towing that trailer with 4.10's.

I have a V6 5spd 4Runner and have run 31/4.56, 33/4.56, 33/4.88, and 34 (almost 35)/4.88. The best combination BY FAR is 33/4.88 for normal driving, but I wish I was geared lower in the mountains. If I were you, I would do 5.29 and never look back. You NEED to keep these engines over 3000 RPM to be in the powerband and realize the best power AND economy. You waste a TON of gas lugging the motor and flooring it to make it over every rise and roll in the road.

Good prices on complete thirdmembers at TrailGear and Randy's Ring and Pinion

bugguy68

According to the local dealer. My VIN says it was built in May 92'. This was a one owner truck but I unfortunetly don't know what tire size it had originally. I have read on web sites that the tire sizes on the door placard are just general sizes recommending tire pressues. They were generic and not the actuall size on the truck when new. I will verify the tag on the firewall, but it definitely starts with 4T and the A/TM starts with B. Like I said this was a one owner truck prior to me getting it and the lift and tires were the only mods done. One small fender bender in it's life but nothing that would give cause for funky ID badges. I will try and get you a photo. Oh and they ere no help on telling me the gear size by the VIN, go figure. They could't do anythinig with the A/TM code either. Kept blaming thier computer that they couldn't enter that code. Thats my luck.

bugguy68

Ok, I hope this thing isn't a freak! The number on the frame in the w/w is VZN100-N000545. Ofcourse thats nowhere close to what I have listed as the VIN, and the VIN on the dash matches the number in the door jamb. Someone please help here????? Photo coming.

tc

Sorry - I should have been more clear - only the last few digits of the VIN are in the wheelwell on the older trucks - newer ones (like FJ Cruisers) have the entire VIN on the frame.

bugguy68

So here is a pic of the door placard. I thru in a pic of the truck for ya to check out. If any of you guys can make hide nor tail of these numbers and let me know what gears I have I sure would appreciate it. It's for darn sure my dealer can't.

Jay351

Im pretty sure that tag is saying that your truck came stock with 28" tires, what size is your spare tire?

If you have stock 28" tires that means you have 4.10 gears, if you have stock 31" tires you have 4.56 gears.

With 33" tires you should be running 4.88 gears.

bugguy68

Spare, believe it or not is a 33.

Jay351

Well then, the original was removed, these trucks never came from the factory with tires bigger then 31x10.50"

You can pull the axle code off that sticker you have in the door jam, or you can do the wheel/driveshaft rotation thing, im not sure how to do that though.

bugguy68

Yeah it's not original. I kind of figured that. I just can't believe how illusive this little tid bit of info is becoming. Someone must know how to accuratly desifer these codes.

bugguy68

I guess in closing 4.88s are the way to go with the 33s. The question is, is that going to give me the pull I'm looking for or am I just waisting my money trying to pull that much wieght. I'm going to start another thread try to discover which gear ration I have in my truck if one doesn't exist already.

SoCalWheeler71

I can't beleive no one has mentioned this yet- the doorjamb axle code only works on 94 and later! Before that it's all jibberish.

Easy way to check the ratio. You will need an assistant. Park the truck on flat level ground with room to move forward at least 10'. Get some chalk or white-out or something similar. Mark a line at 12'o clock on the tire and draw a line across the dust sheild on to the 3rd member on the side you have better access to. Have you helper slowly move the truck forward in a straight line exactly one tire rotation, while you count the driveshaft rotations. If it's just a bit past 4 then you have 4.10's, about 4 1/2 rotations you have 4.56's, almost five is 4.88's. Check it three times to rule out driveshaft backlash.

And just be glad you don't have the extra weight of an extra cab or a 4runner body!

stormin94

Try a header, and full custom exhaust. That should give your 10-15 Horsepower, and that'll help you A LOT when towing with the good ol 3.slow. I've towed a 4,000pound Bayliner boat with my 3.slow 4Runner. goes 70 on the freeway, just takes a while to get there. Up hills is a different beast....I usually have to drop down into 3rd and rally it to hold 55 up the steep hills. Thats with K&N intake, and headers, and full custom exhaust, and 4.10 gears with 31-10.50's. I get around 10-12MPG also.

Four Runner

"Gearing, according to Grandpa..."

~Put de rear o'yer rig un' sum jacks.
*Block de tires in frunt first thoh.
~Puter'n neutral.
~Grab a pal, have em side on under'n watch the drive shaft.
~Mark the top-o-the bottum of yer tire with sumptn.
~Spin yer tire round twice, while having that ijut friend count up the spins-o the driveshaft.
*You know he can count past 6 right, no this ai'nt a questin o joke, is necessity.
Take yer number'n divide by two.

Majic, you'se got yer gearin.

There, problem solved. As far as ratio's go, yeah 4.56 is good middle ground, but none too powerful. Go with 4.88's to run 33's and haul. 4.56's if you do drop back to 31's. How do i know, thust me, the auto w/ 31's, and 4.11's sucks worse.

CoedNaked

My 93 with it's axle code sticker worked fine with the axle codes posted on the net. And I double checked it with one of those online calculators where you plug in the tire size, the speed and rpm's and it gives you your gears, and it is accurate.

The short and skinny is I need you to get out on the highway and post us a few RPM's in gears. For example when you're in say 4th gear, because that is 1 to 1 (easy to remember) what rpm's are you at when you're in say 40 MPH and 50 MPH? How about when you're in 5th gear on the highway - what RPM's are you at in 60 and 70 MPH. (5th gear is I believe 0.84 to 1 on the R150F).

If you can relay that information and we know you have 33" tires then we can probaby figure out what gears you have that way.

Jay351

at 60mph im at 2650rpm give or take a few.. Hard to focus on MPH when your gauge is in KM/h

SoCalWheeler71

Four Runner- your method only works if the diff has a locker or LSD in it. Otherwise if it's open you have to jack up only one rear tire and leave the other touching the ground.

My 93 auto w/factory 4.88's has G144 on the doorjamb sticker. Does that match your code list? The website where I saw the codes listed said their list was only accurate for 94 and newer. My code didn't make sense from their list.

stormin94

I think everyone is having such a hard time decoding the axle code because the truck was made in America. According to the VIN #. It doesn't start with a JT, so it's not japanese made.

bugguy68

I started a new thread in this forum just to tackle the gear ratio issue. I guess the numbers are solved for the towing, headers/exhaust, synthetic lubes and 4.88s should do me. I still would love evryones input on this issue of gear ratios so I'm working with that new thread, please check it out. Totally got off the path from the towing. I guess it sounds like my codes are for crap due to being built in the US prior to 94. Does that sound pretty accurate? Looks like I will be doing the wheel spin thing. I guess I just figured that toyota put a code on there for a reason and that would have been the fastest and most accurate way.....you know, kind of straight from the horses mouth. Guess I can't count on that. Anyway, please check out that thread. It's talking strictly about the code and the gearing issue. I'm figuring that my towing help is solved. Thanks for all the help, but please share your knowledge on the gearing issue.