3VZE maintenance suggestions
#1
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3VZE maintenance suggestions
I've got a 1989 Pickup 4x4 with the 3VZE engine and 175k miles on it.
I bought this not long ago and really don't know how well the previous owner cared for it. Anyway, it runs pretty well. Starts every time, gets me to Seattle and back to Portland very month or so. But, I only get about 18.5 MPG on the highway.
With my tax returns coming next week, I wanna spend some money on my baby. I ran my first Seafoam treatment and got tons of smoke. I ran 1 can in 1/2 a talk of gas, half a can in the crank case, and 1/2 a can in the brake vacuum booster line. Idles very smooth, but I'm looking for more.
I'm sort of a car/truck noob so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I read the Seafoam thread and it sounds like I should run another one or two treatments through the engine, then change the plugs and fuel filter.
The dude at the Oil Can Henry's said I need a timing belt soon.
Only other thing I can think of is the front end makes a clank/thunk noise when creeping forward with the wheel all the way to one side or the other. I'm running stock size tires. If I don't go all the way to the stop of the wheel, I don't get the noise.
Oh, I'm also leaking gear oil from the rear dif, and I've got a small leak at the rear main seal of the engine. Neither are very extreme and the oil place tops off all fluids every time I'm in, so I haven't been worrying about it.
Anyway, as I said, kind of a noob. But I'd love some input on the above mentioned items, as well as any ways I can get the most bang for my buck next week when I'm looking to perform some maintenance. Any other comments/suggestions/input on this truck / engine combo would be great too.
Just looking to know everything about caring for my baby!
Thanks!
I bought this not long ago and really don't know how well the previous owner cared for it. Anyway, it runs pretty well. Starts every time, gets me to Seattle and back to Portland very month or so. But, I only get about 18.5 MPG on the highway.
With my tax returns coming next week, I wanna spend some money on my baby. I ran my first Seafoam treatment and got tons of smoke. I ran 1 can in 1/2 a talk of gas, half a can in the crank case, and 1/2 a can in the brake vacuum booster line. Idles very smooth, but I'm looking for more.
I'm sort of a car/truck noob so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I read the Seafoam thread and it sounds like I should run another one or two treatments through the engine, then change the plugs and fuel filter.
The dude at the Oil Can Henry's said I need a timing belt soon.
Only other thing I can think of is the front end makes a clank/thunk noise when creeping forward with the wheel all the way to one side or the other. I'm running stock size tires. If I don't go all the way to the stop of the wheel, I don't get the noise.
Oh, I'm also leaking gear oil from the rear dif, and I've got a small leak at the rear main seal of the engine. Neither are very extreme and the oil place tops off all fluids every time I'm in, so I haven't been worrying about it.
Anyway, as I said, kind of a noob. But I'd love some input on the above mentioned items, as well as any ways I can get the most bang for my buck next week when I'm looking to perform some maintenance. Any other comments/suggestions/input on this truck / engine combo would be great too.
Just looking to know everything about caring for my baby!
Thanks!
#2
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Location: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
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Welcome to YT! Depending on the miles and when it was done last your probably due for a timing belt. I'd do the waterpump as a minimum while it's apart and even better would be the tensioner too.
A general tune up never hurts.. plugs, wires, cap, clean the throttle body, and fuel and air filters.
Where at in the rear diff is it leaking? If it's coming from where the driveline goes into the diff it's your pinion seal. Rear mains are common on the 3.0 and a PIA to change.
Not sure about your front end clunk.. the steering stops are known to make a lot of racket when you are at full turn and you hit a bump but that is more of a metal on metal screech. A little grease on them quiets them right down.
A general tune up never hurts.. plugs, wires, cap, clean the throttle body, and fuel and air filters.
Where at in the rear diff is it leaking? If it's coming from where the driveline goes into the diff it's your pinion seal. Rear mains are common on the 3.0 and a PIA to change.
Not sure about your front end clunk.. the steering stops are known to make a lot of racket when you are at full turn and you hit a bump but that is more of a metal on metal screech. A little grease on them quiets them right down.
#4
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The noise at full turn is the steering stops, this is normal like UKMeyers said, just put some grease on the stops. By the way, 18.5 mpg is great from the 3.0
#5
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Search Grasshopper.... I just typed in Seafoam and got 399 threads of info. It's used to purge your engine of nasty deposits.
EDIT.. Paul you beat me to it!
EDIT.. Paul you beat me to it!
#6
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Yes, i believe it's leaking where the driveline enters the rear dif. I was told a common leak is at the back plate where all the bolts go around in a circle and thats an easy fix + some gear oil. However, my truck doesn't have that.
I got a notice today saying my steering relay rod was recalled, so I'm thinking I'll have some work done next week when I get the tax returns. I was told there isn't much to do along the lines of a "tune up" on electronic fuel injection engines. Though, I suppose paying someone to do it is better than me wasting an afternoon on it.
So from the sounds of it I should have the following work done:
Steering relay rod (free toyota recall)
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
steering stops looked at / lubed
tune-up (fuel filter, plugs, wires, clean throttle body, distributor rotor and cap)
Would be nice:
Rear main seal
pinion seal in rear dif.
Have I missed anything?
I know this varies greatly, but what should I expect to pay for this amount of work?
I asked my uncle about the rear main seal leak and this is what he said:
"If you see an engine with 175k miles on it that doesn't leak at the rear main seal, that's because it's out of oil"
And apparently it's not cheap either.
Thank you for your help so far. A coworker suggested YT to me as a great place of info.
One last question is how do you guys feel about "high mileage" oil? I never trust the guys at the lube shop; they just want to sell more services. Though, I am considering letting them flush my transmission, but I think the dealership might do a better job. It's kinda hard to shift into gear sometimes. Would a tranny flush help? or is it more likely to be syncros?
Sorry for all my noob questions. I appreciate everyones patience!
I got a notice today saying my steering relay rod was recalled, so I'm thinking I'll have some work done next week when I get the tax returns. I was told there isn't much to do along the lines of a "tune up" on electronic fuel injection engines. Though, I suppose paying someone to do it is better than me wasting an afternoon on it.
So from the sounds of it I should have the following work done:
Steering relay rod (free toyota recall)
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
steering stops looked at / lubed
tune-up (fuel filter, plugs, wires, clean throttle body, distributor rotor and cap)
Would be nice:
Rear main seal
pinion seal in rear dif.
Have I missed anything?
I know this varies greatly, but what should I expect to pay for this amount of work?
I asked my uncle about the rear main seal leak and this is what he said:
"If you see an engine with 175k miles on it that doesn't leak at the rear main seal, that's because it's out of oil"
And apparently it's not cheap either.
Thank you for your help so far. A coworker suggested YT to me as a great place of info.
One last question is how do you guys feel about "high mileage" oil? I never trust the guys at the lube shop; they just want to sell more services. Though, I am considering letting them flush my transmission, but I think the dealership might do a better job. It's kinda hard to shift into gear sometimes. Would a tranny flush help? or is it more likely to be syncros?
Sorry for all my noob questions. I appreciate everyones patience!
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#9
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I wish my 3.0 truck would get 18.5 mpg
I would throw Air Filter under tune-up. And the loud squeek at full lock is probably the bumpstops. For that I just smear some grease on the bumpstop and the little metal pad that it hits
I would throw Air Filter under tune-up. And the loud squeek at full lock is probably the bumpstops. For that I just smear some grease on the bumpstop and the little metal pad that it hits
#12
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LS1Steve great link. thank you
I've got a K&N air filter that I'm sure to clean regularly. Not exactly sure how I like it, but it came with the truck so I keep it.
I'm probably being a little over ambitious with this whole maintenance and upgrades thing, but hey! what's a truck if you can't enjoy it and spend your hard earned dollars.
Now, if I can only find a SR5 gauge cluster with the tach and extra gauges that fits my 89... *goes to ebay*
I've got a K&N air filter that I'm sure to clean regularly. Not exactly sure how I like it, but it came with the truck so I keep it.
I'm probably being a little over ambitious with this whole maintenance and upgrades thing, but hey! what's a truck if you can't enjoy it and spend your hard earned dollars.
Now, if I can only find a SR5 gauge cluster with the tach and extra gauges that fits my 89... *goes to ebay*
#13
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Yes, i believe it's leaking where the driveline enters the rear dif. I was told a common leak is at the back plate where all the bolts go around in a circle and thats an easy fix + some gear oil. However, my truck doesn't have that.
I got a notice today saying my steering relay rod was recalled, so I'm thinking I'll have some work done next week when I get the tax returns. I was told there isn't much to do along the lines of a "tune up" on electronic fuel injection engines. Though, I suppose paying someone to do it is better than me wasting an afternoon on it.
So from the sounds of it I should have the following work done:
Steering relay rod (free toyota recall)
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
steering stops looked at / lubed
tune-up (fuel filter, plugs, wires, clean throttle body, distributor rotor and cap)
Would be nice:
Rear main seal
pinion seal in rear dif.
Have I missed anything?
I know this varies greatly, but what should I expect to pay for this amount of work?
I asked my uncle about the rear main seal leak and this is what he said:
"If you see an engine with 175k miles on it that doesn't leak at the rear main seal, that's because it's out of oil"
And apparently it's not cheap either.
Thank you for your help so far. A coworker suggested YT to me as a great place of info.
One last question is how do you guys feel about "high mileage" oil? I never trust the guys at the lube shop; they just want to sell more services. Though, I am considering letting them flush my transmission, but I think the dealership might do a better job. It's kinda hard to shift into gear sometimes. Would a tranny flush help? or is it more likely to be syncros?
Sorry for all my noob questions. I appreciate everyones patience!
I got a notice today saying my steering relay rod was recalled, so I'm thinking I'll have some work done next week when I get the tax returns. I was told there isn't much to do along the lines of a "tune up" on electronic fuel injection engines. Though, I suppose paying someone to do it is better than me wasting an afternoon on it.
So from the sounds of it I should have the following work done:
Steering relay rod (free toyota recall)
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
steering stops looked at / lubed
tune-up (fuel filter, plugs, wires, clean throttle body, distributor rotor and cap)
Would be nice:
Rear main seal
pinion seal in rear dif.
Have I missed anything?
I know this varies greatly, but what should I expect to pay for this amount of work?
I asked my uncle about the rear main seal leak and this is what he said:
"If you see an engine with 175k miles on it that doesn't leak at the rear main seal, that's because it's out of oil"
And apparently it's not cheap either.
Thank you for your help so far. A coworker suggested YT to me as a great place of info.
One last question is how do you guys feel about "high mileage" oil? I never trust the guys at the lube shop; they just want to sell more services. Though, I am considering letting them flush my transmission, but I think the dealership might do a better job. It's kinda hard to shift into gear sometimes. Would a tranny flush help? or is it more likely to be syncros?
Sorry for all my noob questions. I appreciate everyones patience!
Is your baby a standard or auto?
#14
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#15
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Why do you think you need to flush it then? I should say, don't bother letting them flush it. Just drive it until it's nice and warm and drain and refill with fresh gear oil. Lots of people like synthetics.....(*wink*)
The shifting problem is probably the shifter seat bushing, if it's not grinding or the clutch is not slipping. There are threads on that. Search "shifter seat bushing".
The shifting problem is probably the shifter seat bushing, if it's not grinding or the clutch is not slipping. There are threads on that. Search "shifter seat bushing".
Last edited by thook; 02-11-2007 at 01:54 PM.
#16
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Yeah, I just read about the shifter seat bushing last night. Apparently it's a limp piece of plastic that disintegrates over time. From what I found it looks pretty easy to replace. And if I understand correctly, the gear notches will feel deeper after replacing the bushing. Only thing I'm not clear on is how to remove the plastic boot around the base of the shifter and the carpeting beneath that.
#18
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Well, on a whim I rolled into the Toyota dealership on my way home from work and asked a couple questions.
I got a quote on some of the maintenance questions I posted about previously, and here's what I found:
Timing belt and tensioner
Water Pump
Thermostat
--------------
$565.95 + tensioners (apparently there are 2 and both might not need replacing)
Rear main seal (for oil leak)
------------
$800.00 (OUCH!)
General tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap, and throttle body maintenance
-------------
389.95
As far as the squeaky steering stops, that was fixed with the replacement of the steering relay rod. Just just slapped some grease on the stops.
Anyway, I thought it'd be interesting to get some peoples impressions on this. My first reaction was this stuff seems WAY over priced. Granted, there is a certain value attached to not having to do the labor myself, but that value only goes so far.
Oh! And they repaired the relay rod in 30 minutes. I rolled in, they took my information and about 30-35 minutes later I was walking out the door.
I got a quote on some of the maintenance questions I posted about previously, and here's what I found:
Timing belt and tensioner
Water Pump
Thermostat
--------------
$565.95 + tensioners (apparently there are 2 and both might not need replacing)
Rear main seal (for oil leak)
------------
$800.00 (OUCH!)
General tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap, and throttle body maintenance
-------------
389.95
As far as the squeaky steering stops, that was fixed with the replacement of the steering relay rod. Just just slapped some grease on the stops.
Anyway, I thought it'd be interesting to get some peoples impressions on this. My first reaction was this stuff seems WAY over priced. Granted, there is a certain value attached to not having to do the labor myself, but that value only goes so far.
Oh! And they repaired the relay rod in 30 minutes. I rolled in, they took my information and about 30-35 minutes later I was walking out the door.
#20
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I could get a garage to work in but it's my main/only truck and I need to be able to drive to work, so i can't afford the downtime with doing the seal myself.
I'm trying so high mileage oil to see if that'll slow the leak. we'll see how it works.
I'm trying so high mileage oil to see if that'll slow the leak. we'll see how it works.