SeanGold007

I have 95 4runner with 250k miles on it and it blew headgasket.I decided to do a complete rebuild had heads rebuilt,blocked bored .30 over honed and vatted, crank polished, new pistons,rings,mains and rods,oil pump and w.p,and all tioming components.Have everything back together in truck torqued everything to specs and double and triple checked all timing marks.It is getiing fuel and spark but will not start.I was told to check timing as it could be180 out checked and put it all on the marks and put back togehter and still nothing.It has 30-50 pounds of compression and told until I get timing right it will not have any.Does anyone have any suggestions i am at my wits end?I was looking towards the head gaskets as they are not top of the line and I have read that th 3.0 and 3.4 have replacement gasket problems but I am really not wanting to tear back down to short block.You would think that short block is not the problem as everything in is new and was all with in specs.Pleas HELP!!!!!!!!!!

tried4x2signN

jeeZeus! You don't hardly have any compression!

So you had the engine rebuilt.

Do you know for sure that the dowel pins are in the cams, and that they are in the notches for the cam wheels?

SeanGold007

I had the machine work done then I built the short block and put everything back together.The pins are in the cams and cam gears are on correctly I have checked and double checked all the marks to make sure they line up.I have built motors before just not Toyota's and this might be my last one.I have been told it is the timing but I give and don't know what direction to go.

SeanGold007

I did the rebuild by the book so I am at a loss.

tried4x2signN

Are you using a Toyota belt? And I wonder if the valve shims can be so off, that's why you're loosing compression?

tried4x2signN

Been there... This is the one engine that if I could do everything OUTSIDE the bay, then drop it in and it be running...

I don't know what I'd do if I had to do the work under the hood that I've seen others do...

Sorry man. I know your pain.

SeanGold007

I just read about the shims they may not of got back in the right holes.Do you know wht the clearance is for the cam and lifter for exhaust and intake?I looked in the book but not sure if I am looking at the right thing.

tried4x2signN

or the head gaskets... I've never seen one in person but I've heard a lot about up-side-down gaskets...

And they're supplied by the lesser quality namebrands...

tried4x2signN

Yeah, I'm having the same problem...

Can't find where is SPECIFICALLY says

Wonder if it's on the label under the hood?

This is outside my level of experience... I get my heads done and just put them on. I GLADLY pay somebody else to do this

SeanGold007

Thanks for the help.I know the gaskets are on right but after reading about the shims i am pretty sure that this is the culprit.It ahd been awhile from when I got the heads done and I got time to put it all back together.I am quite sure that I have the lifters on the right side just not the right valve.So fun for me.Thanks for the help.I will post if that is what it was.

runethechamp

So you had the heads rebuilt, and you have worked on engines before, but didn't check the valve clearances? Sorry, just giving you some crap.

Intake clearances: 0.18-0.28 mm (0.007-0.011 in)
Exhaust clearances: 0.22-0.32 mm (0.009-0.013 in)

Measure when the lobes are pointing straight AWAY from the valves. Hope it helps.

SeanGold007

That's okay I am a chevy and ford man by heart.Didn't think to check lifters did not think there was adjustment as it is just a follower but I guess that is wrong as it is not running and here I am.Ha Ha Ha.I hope it is not to involved and I can get the right lifters back in the right place as I have had no luck on finding shims.

SeanGold007

I am just wondering if having the lifters off can really cause this problem.I am quite sure this is the problem just wanting to double check.It seems to be a screwy way to set valve lash.It would be much easier to have a adjustable rocer arm assembly or something in that kind of adjustability.It is hard to think that on the max side of the clearances ther is 0.04mm difference and could cause these problems.

SeanGold007

Checked valves and they are bad off.Call Toyota and they don't stock the shims.Call a nationally known cylinder head shop and told him my dilema and was told that if the shop I took heads to didn't check height of valve with lifter and cam installed that they ground seat and valve to much and the only fix would be takings heads off and getting valve stems cut down.But on the bright side they have a set of new reman heads with cams and lifters and valves preset for $535 with no core charge and can have them to me in 2 days.So that is what I'm going to do and when I'm done I will basically have a new crate motor.

OutlawMike

You say "bad off" What is bad off? Are they all really tight, as in staying in contact with the cam lobe when the lobe is straight up? Or are some of them in contact, some of them in clearance?

If the machine shop put the valves too deep into the heads, ya, you have problems. That is their bad, not yours.

Who did you contact about the $535 heads?

Good luck

runethechamp

The dealer can get you the shims. Just measure properly and figure out which ones you need and they can order them for you. Didn't take long for me to get mine.

This of course assumes that you don't need shims thicker than what Toyota supplies.

SeanGold007

They are all tight.Can not even get0.007 in feeler guage under either exhaust or intake.National cylinder head is who has the heads.I would due the shims but local dealer doesn't have them and didn't know how long it would take to get them.Figure best rout to take being how everything else is new is to go with the replacement heads with new cam and lifters and valves already adjusted and the heads are guaranteed.Thanks for all the help.Will post when get it back togehter.

OutlawMike

As I recall, the shims were $12 a piece when I bought them. If you had to buy all new shims you would be out $150 just in shims. You might be able to swap them around, putting a thinner one in place of a thicker one and buy a few less.

Good luck, and I will pass on the National Cylinder Head info to the guy who just posted with a cracked head.

You might try to sell the old heads, they have good cams and valves in them and they might shim in, if someone wanted to invest the time and money.

SeanGold007

I was going to do the shim thing but opting for all new and less time consuming.National Heads doesn't charge core but you send them your old heads and they pay for shipping back.I think this is a pretty good deal for two complete heads.Considering every where else I looked was from $300 to $600 for just one head plus $100 core and you have to order and it takes up to 7 to 10 days to get heads.National's phone number is 866-453-1011.

hairbear65

I find it hard to believe valves that are only off .005 or so would cause this 3.0 not to start. With the smaller clearnaces the valves are actually opening more..not less.

The cylinder head shop is in business to do one thing...thats sell cylinder heads...whether someone needs them or not...

Most Toyota dealers who have serviced the 3.0s do to head gasket recalls should have a small fortune of shims floating around in their shop...you shouldn't need to buy need shims.

You say you checked marked...but did you verify that the rotor was on #1 cylinder while the marks were all on top?....the lines will be lined up even though the motor is off 180deg.

My 2 cents...no matter what good luck.