3.0 V6 Troubleshooting
10-05-2010, 09:01 AM
#62
Registered User
During my lunch break I decided to remove the dist. cap and take a look. While getting ready to remove it I noticed the #1 injector wire was unplugged. That might have been the cause of my missfire. 
What happened is the connector has broken and is no longer snapping in. For now I will have to check it often and make sure its not working its way loose again. I guess I can get a new connector from Toyota but it does not look like there is much extra wire in the harness to get a new one connected. I am also going to take a flash light and check the three on the passenger side under the intake.
Its still not running great but its much better. I need to get the new TPS properly adjusted, I just used the while running idle speed trick to set it. Once that is dialed in I can go from there.
I will still check under the dist. cap also. I'm betting there is oil slung up in there and maybe my dist. is worn and loose.
I might have time to mess with a little this weekend. Check your injector connectors warmonger88, maybe yours are starting to get brittle and crack/break like mine.
What happened is the connector has broken and is no longer snapping in. For now I will have to check it often and make sure its not working its way loose again. I guess I can get a new connector from Toyota but it does not look like there is much extra wire in the harness to get a new one connected. I am also going to take a flash light and check the three on the passenger side under the intake.Its still not running great but its much better. I need to get the new TPS properly adjusted, I just used the while running idle speed trick to set it. Once that is dialed in I can go from there.
I will still check under the dist. cap also. I'm betting there is oil slung up in there and maybe my dist. is worn and loose.
I might have time to mess with a little this weekend. Check your injector connectors warmonger88, maybe yours are starting to get brittle and crack/break like mine.
10-05-2010, 09:21 AM
#63
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
You can use zip ties to hold your injector connectors; ALL mine were broken when I put it back together after a rebuild in 2007. They are not separate; you have to get the ENTIRE WIRING HARNESS. I'd like to replace my wiring harness; heat & time have taken their toll. But at $565.00, it's not likely anytime soon....
10-05-2010, 09:27 AM
#64
Registered User
Until then, it's po' boy patching....lol! Yeah, long pipe cleaners work pretty good, too. You just lash them around and twist to tighten.
10-13-2010, 01:04 PM
#65
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am brand new to this site, found it in a google search. My experience with working on vehicles is some what limited.
I have a 94 4runner 3.0 auto 4x4. I bought it in January of this year, the guy told me it had overheated a couple times and he replaced the waterpump. He told me his wife was driving it for awhile and one day it overheated again and they parked it. I got it dirt cheap ($600) with almost no rust, everything else worked, and I needed a 4x4 at the time (lots of snow)
I got my $600 worth of use out of it and I drove it for about a month and a half with no problems (other than it being a 3.slow) Than one day I got about 3 blocks and the temp gauge went almost instantly in the red. I had to drive it about half a block to get to a safe enough spot to park it, but it was too late. Blew the head gasket.
I had to waite until a few days ago to fix it due to lack of funds. Last night I got a couple guys (licensed mechanics) to rebuild the top end. Everything looked good as far as the block/heads being straight and no cracks. I bought a gasket/seal kit as well as new water pump, thermostat, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, filters, and fluids.
I had to get these guys to do the repairs because I am not experienced enough to tackle something that big yet, and watching them work I was glad I hadn't tried it.
They worked very fast and thorough and spent a lot of time cleaning, checking, and cleaning everything again before puting everything back together with the new parts.
When everything was done they started it up and it ran beautiful. They left and I let it go through a couple of heat cycles like they recomended without driving it yet. Than today I went to go drive it and noticed the idle was very rough. At almost the same time the temp gauge started to rise very fast, I was about 3 blocks from the house and pulled over to let it cool down.
After letting it cool I started it up and started feathering the throttle a little and noticed it was still idling rough (around 400-600rpm and surging) and the temp gauge was rising. But if I held it at around 3k rpm it would run very smooth and the temp gauge would drop very fast and be just under half way (just under what I would think is N.O.T.) I drove it back to the house paying very close attention to the gauge. If I let it drop to idle at the stop light it would overheat and idle very rough and die. However if I put it in nuetral and rev it to around 3k RPM it would cool down and run like normal.
I have looked through the posts on here and noticed several people having similar problems and all the suggestions but these people don't seem to post the results after fixing the issue (If they ever fixed it, or gave up)
I checked the radiator and water runs smooth through it. I'm waiting for it to cool down right now so I can try running it without the thermostat as suggested by others on this site.
I am wondering if I'm chasing 2 different ghosts or if the rough idle and overheating are somehow related.
I "burped" the coolent system like suggested on here, and all the fluids are full.
Before the head gasket blew I had no problem with the idle and it wasn't overheating (except for that one time when the gaskets went)
I was standing there with the guys working on the gaskets when they put the head gaskets on and said something about how I had heard about the gaskets being put in backwards. All three of us looked at them and douple/tripple checked they were in right before puting the heads back on.
Everything went together like a tight fitting glove (I was "helping" them, handing them tools, getting in the way, trying to learn what I could, etc)
I'm not able to create a thread yet do to not posting at least 15 comments yet on here. (I don't want to post much yet do to not knowing much, my advise may not be the greatest due to lack of experience)
I would like it if I could get some replies from people that have had similar experiences and what the end result was, as well as suggestions, ANYTHING will help.
I was also thinking about checking the TPS and MAFM, but again I have to waite for it to cool before removing either, I burnt my hand pretty good on the intake manifold trying to unplug the TPS while it was running.
Thanks
andrew
I have a 94 4runner 3.0 auto 4x4. I bought it in January of this year, the guy told me it had overheated a couple times and he replaced the waterpump. He told me his wife was driving it for awhile and one day it overheated again and they parked it. I got it dirt cheap ($600) with almost no rust, everything else worked, and I needed a 4x4 at the time (lots of snow)
I got my $600 worth of use out of it and I drove it for about a month and a half with no problems (other than it being a 3.slow) Than one day I got about 3 blocks and the temp gauge went almost instantly in the red. I had to drive it about half a block to get to a safe enough spot to park it, but it was too late. Blew the head gasket.
I had to waite until a few days ago to fix it due to lack of funds. Last night I got a couple guys (licensed mechanics) to rebuild the top end. Everything looked good as far as the block/heads being straight and no cracks. I bought a gasket/seal kit as well as new water pump, thermostat, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, filters, and fluids.
I had to get these guys to do the repairs because I am not experienced enough to tackle something that big yet, and watching them work I was glad I hadn't tried it.
They worked very fast and thorough and spent a lot of time cleaning, checking, and cleaning everything again before puting everything back together with the new parts.
When everything was done they started it up and it ran beautiful. They left and I let it go through a couple of heat cycles like they recomended without driving it yet. Than today I went to go drive it and noticed the idle was very rough. At almost the same time the temp gauge started to rise very fast, I was about 3 blocks from the house and pulled over to let it cool down.
After letting it cool I started it up and started feathering the throttle a little and noticed it was still idling rough (around 400-600rpm and surging) and the temp gauge was rising. But if I held it at around 3k rpm it would run very smooth and the temp gauge would drop very fast and be just under half way (just under what I would think is N.O.T.) I drove it back to the house paying very close attention to the gauge. If I let it drop to idle at the stop light it would overheat and idle very rough and die. However if I put it in nuetral and rev it to around 3k RPM it would cool down and run like normal.
I have looked through the posts on here and noticed several people having similar problems and all the suggestions but these people don't seem to post the results after fixing the issue (If they ever fixed it, or gave up)
I checked the radiator and water runs smooth through it. I'm waiting for it to cool down right now so I can try running it without the thermostat as suggested by others on this site.
I am wondering if I'm chasing 2 different ghosts or if the rough idle and overheating are somehow related.
I "burped" the coolent system like suggested on here, and all the fluids are full.
Before the head gasket blew I had no problem with the idle and it wasn't overheating (except for that one time when the gaskets went)
I was standing there with the guys working on the gaskets when they put the head gaskets on and said something about how I had heard about the gaskets being put in backwards. All three of us looked at them and douple/tripple checked they were in right before puting the heads back on.
Everything went together like a tight fitting glove (I was "helping" them, handing them tools, getting in the way, trying to learn what I could, etc)
I'm not able to create a thread yet do to not posting at least 15 comments yet on here. (I don't want to post much yet do to not knowing much, my advise may not be the greatest due to lack of experience)
I would like it if I could get some replies from people that have had similar experiences and what the end result was, as well as suggestions, ANYTHING will help.
I was also thinking about checking the TPS and MAFM, but again I have to waite for it to cool before removing either, I burnt my hand pretty good on the intake manifold trying to unplug the TPS while it was running.
Thanks
andrew
10-13-2010, 02:25 PM
#66
Registered User
You can use zip ties to hold your injector connectors; ALL mine were broken when I put it back together after a rebuild in 2007. They are not separate; you have to get the ENTIRE WIRING HARNESS. I'd like to replace my wiring harness; heat & time have taken their toll. But at $565.00, it's not likely anytime soon....
10-17-2010, 06:17 PM
#68
Registered User
i'm going to do a pressure check when it stops raining, but all of my injector plugs are still solid. i forgot that i stuck them together with a little rtv on the outside diameter of the male side so they wouldn't come off, i cold have saved some time if i remembered that.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
antmang
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
1
07-23-2014 02:51 PM
CJNAZ
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
10
02-27-2013 11:28 AM
ahickman
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
10
04-17-2008 05:56 PM
