thook

Yep, I'd wondered about that yesterday. It would certainly explain everything.

The pistons would pump regardless of the timing belt as they are directly connected to the crankshaft.

If you could see that the distributor drive gear wasn't turning, I'd suspect timing belt before a cam problem. A cam problem you would definitely notice. You'll need to pull the timing cover back to inspect the belt. If it's dangling loose, it's broken. But, I'm betting the belt broke.

jbyrdman

Ok, when I get off work I will do that.....is there alot involved? Or just pulling off the cover? At least I know evreything that I have replaced or done needed to be replaced now or soon anyway so nothing lost I guess....

TNRabbit

If you're not getting dizzy movement when you crank, I almost guarantee the belt is broken. Don't hear of that happening too often with the 3.0....

pete f

I got back from work tonight at midnight but I can see your in good hands. My keyway to the timing belt broke last year .Make sure you check that too!

thook

Well, to replace the timing belt....yes, there's relatively a lot involved. But do it enough times, and you won't think so. You'll quickly find ways to do it effeciently and effectively.

However.....just to inspect the belt, pull the top radiator hose loose (drains some coolant first....maybe a half gallon or so) from the water inlet on the idler pulley. Then, pull off the inlet top, the spark cables atop the cover, and possibly the drive belts. I think...if I remember correctly...those will be in the way of accessing some of the bolts in the timing cover. Once the bolts are out, you can pull the cover back far enough to see the belt and cam gears, etc.

Here's the procedure for replacement:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf
You can use this as guide for the initial inspection, as well.

pete f

When I checked mine when I loosen the crankcase bolt(See this thread) it took about 4 hours (going slow) to take off cover and about 2 hours to get it back together.

jbyrdman

well i was going to pull the timing belt cover last night, but then noticed at the bottom of the cover below the crank pulley, shards of shredded belt sticking out of the botom of the timing cover that's probably a bad sign, i wonder what else it screwed up in there.....

thook

Probably? Lol!! Atleast it's a non-interference engine and all you'll need is a timing belt kit. The heads don't need removing or rebuilding.

Depending on how many miles you have on the vehicle, you may be well off to get a front end rebuild kit, though. That would include belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump...not sure what all. But, the subject is well covered in a number of threads. Personally, I'm conservative when it comes to vehicles. Fix only what actually fails inspection. Toyota parts are rather rugged and can go quite a while, but do inspect as they are not cheap. If something like the tensioner or water pump or pulley seems flaky it is best to replace it as it may not last as long as your new belt.

thook

That's pretty good time, Pete....even going slow.

jbyrdman

yeah, i could kick myself, don't know how I didn't see the pieces of shrapnal (the belt, no real shrapnal) sticking out of the bottom of the cover....I was in electrical mode I guess, only paying attention to wires, so replacing this is definitley something I could do? I've never set the timing and a dealer here is running a special for 279 to replace the belt on my vehicle....lot of money but that is if, as the tech put it "evreything goes well" like that's gonna happen....I'll be honest, I'm nervous I'll get into it and find that something got screwed up (bent valves or something) and then end up having to take it somewhere anyway...decisions decisions

pete f

Good Luck with what ever you decide.
Pete

jbyrdman

any ideas on what the odds are that this caused more problems than just replacing the timing belt? I'm already thinking the most likely is that some of the pulleys in that cover could have been damaged....but what about engine internals?

rgrounded

__not sure but if I'm not mistaken these engines have whats called zero clearence...hope it didn't hurt the valves when you cranked it over...Good Luck Rob______________________________________

jbyrdman

I thought it was a non-interferance engine? any way we'll see if it did anything...I'm going to give it a go tomorrow, let you all know how it goes.....keep your fingers crossed and thanks for all of yall's help, really helped me out when I was ready to jump! .

thook

You're fine. Like I said, the 3.0 is a non-interference engine...unlike the 22re. When the belt breaks, everything just stops turning that's connected to it. And since it's soft, it doesn't take anything out with it like a chain would.

This is not a hard job, byrdman. It's nuts and bolts and following the little recipe. I was nervous the first time I'd done it, but I found it was a lot easier than I'd thought. Plus, it helps having people to talk to who've done it several times. Save your money. If you have the tools and time, it's a waste to go to a shop for such a simple job.

pete f

All I did was take a look (4hrs to bag and tag well worth the effort)and all was okay.

pete f

Just follow the fsm .Step by step.It not that bad and cost effective.

jbyrdman

well, I'm waiting on the tensioner and idler bearing...hopefully I'll be done tomorrow. bearing went out, I'm guessing that's why the belt was shredded.

pete f

The same thing happened to mine only I didn't know about yotatech and it cost me a little less than $900.Where I live in the summer labor is 90 per hour.Keep up the good work
pete

jbyrdman

Well got it all changed, set timing took it for a spin.....wow!!!! It runs great, but I guess it should all said and done I replace/repaired
1. Spark Plugs (NGK Platinums)
2. Spark Plug Wire set (Beldin Cables)
3. Distributor Assembly, Rotor and Cap
4. Coil
5. EFI Main Relay
6. Battery Terminals and new 8 gauge Negative ground to frame (needed to do that for a while, hopefully will get rid of engine noise on the cb)
7. Timing Belt
8. Idler bearing
9. Tensioner

Grand total of about 600 dollars. I want to thank you guys for all the help and most importanly the encouragement, this would have cost me alot more than it did, plus I wouldn't have the satisfaction....Thank You all very much. Man how cheesey

Now I can continue to address issues that were there before and got put to the back because of the timing belt. I'll search and/or start a new thread if need be, but since I got your ears.........
1. Fuel Injector Leaking (hopefully just an Oring)
2. Pitman Arm (?bushing kit?)
3. Whistling sound from front left tire
4. Thermostat (test to see if good? temp gauge never changes)
5. Fuel Filter
6. Front end rebuild (where can i buy a kit? new pulleys etc...)
7. rear end sag

Ok I'm done, I could keep going, but this is a long post already...Once again, Pete, Thook, TNRabbit, can't thank you guys enough, hopefully I can help someone else out now and give back to the yotatech community, I'm now a believer!! WOOOHOOOO DRIVING THE YOTA AGAIN! I'M OUT!