mr toytech

in my opinion, using a reman engine is about like going to orilleys and buying a rebuilt alternator. you never get a part as good as new. if i didnt have the means to rebuild a motor myself i would have a reputable machine shop do it for me. i have put many reman engines in cars and they are never as good as the ones ive rebuilt myself. but then again im factory trained from toyota. so epic ed i feal for ya. but if any engine is not built right it is not going to be reliable such as a reman. they are built as cheap as possible to be cheap as possible.

Guardian_Saint

The only problem I have with these 3.0 are the HG, knock sensor, and transmission solenoid. I am in the verge of replacing the HG at this very moment and the 3.0 ain't weak or strong it just right at it is, if you keep up the maintenance than your rig will last you a long time, mine is a '92 4runner 3.0 A/T 4x4, I use redline on my tranny and differential, have reduce its weight by removing the whole coolant( condensor, compression, hoses, everything ) inside the engine compartment, remove the gas tank shield, remove spree tire ( I'll put it back on if I am traveling long distance ), and side steps. Your truck will actually run faster, if you test two cars with your smaller car vs your truck, drive it to the national forest on those curve road and drive one vehicle to one point and then drive your rig to that point it actually get there faster than your smaller vehicle so it ain't weak nor strong it just right.

My friend also have a 1989 4runner 3.0 5 speed 4x4 with the 33's size tire he can actually run faster than me on a uphill level road than my auto. transmission, i can go 55 MPH giong on a step 3 level hill, his can go much faster.

Epic Ed

Had I known when the first engine was replaced I probably would have opted to do the expensive 3.4 swap. What happened was a classic case of putting money into it with the belief that a stable, reliable vehicle was just around the next corner and repair. The problem multiplies when the engine repairs aren't the only financial investment in the vehicle. I replaced the first engine and then immediately started adding other mods -- locker, bigger tires, regearing, new CV joints & locking hubs, etc., etc. And just when you think it's stable, another engine repair comes up. Well, you can't just walk out on all the upgrades you've done, can you? Not when just another $1000 will fix the engine and I'll be back on the road to building my dream 4x4.

You see what I mean? Viscious cycle...and I'm still in it. Difference is, this time I'm done. I'm cutting my losses and going a different direction. I'm no longer as interested in having a crawler and instead I want to build an awesome expedition vehicle. Time for a different platform, and the FZJ80 has been on my radar for a lot of years.

This was my first experience with heavily moding a vehicle, and I learned a lot. I wish the leasons had been less expensive, but I know now what to prioritize when building a custom vehicle and some of the important pit falls to avoid.

Ed

Epic Ed

Very true, and I've learned this the hard way. My first two engine replacements were done that way out of necessity -- at the time it was my daily driver and I couldn't afford to be down several weeks while I learned to rebuild an engine.

There is a small chance that I might try what you suggested above -- tear it down and rebuild it on my own. I've never done anything like that and it would be a huge undertaking for me, but unlike in the past I now have another 4Runner as my daily driver (good God, I love the 3rd gen 4Runners) and I could take as long as I needed and fund the repairs over an indefinite period of time if I could convince the wife to give up the garage space for that long. Who knows -- I may go this route. I'm just not sure I'm willing to devote that many weekends and even more funds toward making it happen, but in the back of my mind I keep hearing the call of the 2nd gen siren "you've got thousands into it -- don't quit now! just one more engine repair..."

I'm a sucker. I might fall for it again.

Ed

TNRabbit

If you wanted a reliable vehicle, you should buy something a little bit newer...

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Hey Ed, dude I feel for ya. I had a 1988 Subaru GL10 wagon that was my pride and joy. It had a butt ton of miles on it and the engine was feeling its age and wear so I had the motor replaced with a japanese crate motor and what an improvement that engine was. There were some upcoming issues with the OEM engine so I replaced it just in time (or so I thought). I then had some heating issues whiched resulted in replacing the radiator, so heck you need to replace the hoses when you replace the radiator, right? So in they went. Only thing was and I never thought about it and neither did the repair shop that installed my new crate motor was there are heater hoses that need attention as well. I had this gr8 little motor which was more powerful and better running, better accelerating and better milage then I could have asked for. Then I went on a road trip to visit my folks. Drove from Seattle to Salt Lake City, not even a rumble, then on to San Diego, not a whimper. Now the trip home at 11:30pm headed up the Siskiyou Mountains on I-5 that little Subaru was just clipping right along at 70mph, turbo ingaged and we were eatin up asphalt. No indication of problems, no indication of impending doom, just a loss of power and had to down shift. A little farther and downshifted again, still no indication of the issue. I got within 200 yards of the summit when I started to downshift the last time to first and now the engine is groaning and knocking and when I pushed the clutch in .... shutdown. When I got out to check the problem, steam issuing from under the hood, the radiator was cold, I mean stone cold to the touch. The oil on the dipstick and under the oil fill cap looked like chocolate whipped pudding. That engine was toasted. A heater hose had developed a pin hole and all my coolant was gone! I ended up towing the truck back home on a Uhaul truck and trailer. The repair shop felt bad but couldn't do anything for me as the heater stripe on the engine showed it I had overheated the engine so I had no warranty. They did offer to replace the engine with another crate motor at their cost and no labor charge, so I did the same thing you did, replaced the engine again thinking this was all I needed and then all sorts of things started happening. It was never was the same so on Valentines day 4 years ago, I traded it for my 2000 Celica and I haven't looked back. I now have that Celica (134,000), an 87 4Runner (211,000) and my 95 4Runner with the 3.0 and 93,000. I will be watching this one closely and I hope I don't have to bail on it but I am pretty sensitive to overheating issues. And its always easier to sit in a chair and be a historian. Hind sight is ALWAYS 20/20 and we then make the assessment "if I only knew I was going to replace the engine 4 times I would never installed all those mods I would have sold it instead of fixing it" .... Been there done that, Gawd do we love our trucks!

Bryce77

Now I know I am going to get crap for this but I have to ask. Can I swap the 3.0 for the 22re. Would it be a direct swap with less crap to deal with then the 3.4 swap. Would I have to switch tranny as well or would it bolt directly on? Thanks

Bumpin' Yota

IIRC no the 3vze to 22re swap would be difficult, more so thna the 5vz-fe (3.4L)...

You think the 3vze has no power? Just wait till you get a 22re infront of that automatic driving that 4800lb SUV.... The 3.slow more torque at the rear wheel at 2000 rpm than the 22re does at its peak output at the crank!

Valve issues? You should have been reshimming the motor every 80,000 miles and it will never happen...
HG issues? If the first issue its most likely from the asbestos ban. If the second time you probably reused the head bolts which is a NO NO! (Assuming correct installation)
Knock sensor and knock wire should be replaced whenever the lower intake is pulled.


Incidentally my 3vze had the OEM HG last for 275,000 miles. I owned this vehicle since 60,000 miles. The balance of that was me redlining her every day at every light, pushing her past 90mph routinely. To say that I drove it like I stole it would be an understatement at best. Eventually my HG let go and cyl #6 and now im doing a complete top end rebuild that should net me the same power, maybe more, than the 5vz-fe, and should also improve MPG...but that's secondary.

Besides all pre '90.5 3vz-es do not have HG issues for the most part. Take care of the engine it will take care of you.

Bryce77

Thanks for all you imput and knowlegde and to everone who taken the time go give your opinion. I am keeping the Damn thing.

thook

Suckerrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!....j/k

littlerunner

don't be scared man,drive it like ya stole it,i've got one with 302000 miles on it,its a little weak but i'm planning to put a reman in one day,son will be 16 next year,keeping it for him,it is a stick so that helps the power,take care of it,keep it serviced,don't abuse & it will be fine,i'm probably a little older than some of these guys,20 years ago i may have tried it but now i wouldn't do a motor swap-like to 3.4 if you gave me the parts,in fact i also work at a dealer,we've got a 3.4 that i think only needs rod brngs that i could get for nothing-no thanks-maybe if my 97 went down-hopefully that won't happen

Figit090

ED - i can totally understand that. I wasn't thinking from that perspective and now that i am...i have done that very same thing! it sucks...lol.

mikeztoyz

I am a new found Yota fan i been working on them for 7 years and I know my 22r and my 3ac (1.5) learning the 22re/t and just did some trading for a 88 4runner w/ the 3.0 I heard about the head gasket recall and the valves burning. my 3.0 needed some work when I got it after the new water pump and timing belt, valve cover gaskets new egr valve and a radiator i found out my heads were blown no oil in the water but bubbles coming back through the radiator. I read you can call a local dealership and give them your VIN they'll tell you if your 3.0 has been fixed in the recall also I read the #1 or #6 cylinder can be damaged in the instance that your heads were blown Toyota would gladly replace the broken block ect. But my 4runner is a 1988 and the recall notice I read said they stopped the recall on the 1988-89 and are just honoring the 1900-95 I don't want to sale it but I also do not want to take it apart to find out it is unrepairable or fix it to have it blow up on me. I like a lot of the input I read on this site so please tell me what you guys know. THANKS MIKE!

2DoorJoRunner

So this is ironic because literally YESTERDAY I drove my new to me 90 2door 4runner with the 3.slow 17 hours straight over a thousand total miles from wyoming to california. The truck was decently maintained but had sat for over a year before i started it up 3 days ago total now. I simply changed the fluids and charged the battery. and THAT roadtrip was my first real driving experience with it with absolutely no hiccups. Avg mpg was 18

chuntr

when I bought my runner the 3.0 had 305,000 miles and still started up every time and got me down the road. granted it had all sorts of issues by then but the fact it still worked in that condition is pretty amazing.

Figit090

HOLY THREAD REVIVAL.

I can't even remember posting in this thread. I see the post, but don't remember it.

Glad to hear good things on the 3.0
I hear BHG stories about the 22r as well, while not as often I think lots of older engines have issues, it's just part of the game it seems.

I think tech has come a ways since then though, hopefully in headgasket technology.

mikeztoyz

I read that someone said that the older 22R has BHG issues its the newer ones with the issues I have taken apart a lot of 22Rs and seen a lot of differences in years I did some research and here are some of my findings on the BHG for the 22R. Toyota swapped the dual row timing chain used in older engines for a single row chain with plastic guides in 1983. This system reduced drag on the engine, but was inherently problematic. Every 80,000 to 140,000 miles, the chain could stretch to the point that the hydraulic-operated chain tensioner can not take up any more slack. When this happens, the timing chain impacts driver's side chain guide, breaking the plastic within a few hundred miles of driving. If the engine continues to be operated after the guide breaks, the chain will stretch rapidly (an unfortunate characteristic of single row chains.) The loose chain causes inaccurate ignition timing which usually results in noticeable rough running. In continued operation, the chain can jump a tooth on the drive sprocket or break entirely, with either case resulting in engine damage from valve-piston collisions. Also, the stretched chain will slap against the side of the timing cover due to the broken guide, and can wear through the cover and into the coolant passage behind the water pump. This will cause coolant to drain in to the crankcase / oil pan, possibly causing damage to internal engine components such as the bearings, crankshaft, camshaft as well as damage caused by overheating due to the lack of coolant (since it has drained into the engine oil). i got that off a page i got a lot of info from. anybody wanna jus hit me up mikeztoyz@gmail.com

jordan88runner

i have about 250k on my orginal 3.0 in my 88 runner and i love it man, alot oof people dog on it but i dont see why , it is a toyota made motor which means it is top notch hands down

PowerstrokeJoe

Ok here is my feeling on the 3.0. It is low on power and very thirsty but when it comes down to it it is a good solid little engine. What a lot of people tend to forget is that the newest 3.0 is going on 16 years old at this point and most out there are pushing 150k plus. Aside from the head gasket issues that they had most of what needs to be done is basic maintenance. Maintenance is key to keeping an engine running and lasting long. I can say without a doubt that my 3.0 with 212k on it has been far less maintenance than any of my newer vehicles. I think that stands true for most all of the 3.0's. It really says something about Yota reliability when arguably their worst engine is a 200k engine. I know that I can go out and jump in my truck at any time and it will fire right up and I can go where ever I need to go. I personally am very pleased with the 3VZ-E, but when mine finally decides to die I am doing either a 1uz or a 5vz swap for a little more power. All in all the 3vze has been good to me and I really can't say anything bad about it.

Figit090

Great information, thank you! All good things to check for now.