skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I got the same problem, but I think the injectors are plugged with old gas.

Try some starter fluid. Maybe the gas just is not getting to the injectors.

mitfan311

I know it's a dumb question. My dad insisted I ask. After a head gasket rebuild we have perfect timing on t-belt. And the distributor has to be within one or two degrees of #1 with engine at TDC. . Everything is connected but we can't even get a backfire. We have spark on all cylinders. And great compression. But when I lossened the fuel pressure regulator with the ignition switch on, I expected to get a burst of fuel. Instead all I got was a trickle and some bubbles. That pressure can't be right. I didn't touch the pump in my HG rebuild. I do know the injectors are getting the signal to fire. But my last option is to think there isn't enough pressure. Cuz like i said. I can't even get a pop or backfire. The TPS is off maybe a little but that wouldn't cause this. And even with the distributor off a few degrees I would still get something. Even if it was in at 180 degrees backwards I would still hear a pop. How or what could cause my lack of fuel pressure?

Firefightertaco

it would help if you told us what motor you had, and also are you sure u have all the sensors, connectors, intake, every thing back together?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Who tells the injectors to fire?

Tell your dad to go ask your mother.

:wabbit2:

Fink

I can't wait for the day Weasel asks that.

Fink

Fink

By the way, didn't you have another thread about this similar problem a day or so ago?

EDIT: Yup, they've been merged.

Fink

kottunmewth

You need fuel,fire and air to get something going.You need enough of all of it and if you are getting fire and injection you need pressure to get the fuel through the injectors. Check the pressure on the fuel and if your not getting enough on start up then check that before going any further.

mitfan311

Im having trouble getting my TPS set on my 95 3.0 . I remember that my 300zx would run with it unplugged. or at least would crank. Also Ive done a HG rebuild and all is reconnected I have strong spark I have strong compression. Timing is perfect on belt and within 1 to 3 degrees of Cylinder#1 at TDC. There is a signal being sent to the injectors to fire. But there seems to be almost no fuel pressure when I loosened the Fuel Pressure Regulator. With the key in the on position and even while trying to start there seems to only be a trickle. Whats up with that? I pulled EFI fuse. Do i need to disconnect battery too? I never disconnected the hose from the fuel rail. I just replaced o-rings on injectors and put them back in. I cant even get a pop or a backfire. Its like no fuel is getting into it. Please help. Im broke and hurting without my truck.
Thanks
Wes

P.S. i have fuel in the tank. Ive double and trip[ple checked every connection. The computer gives me codes 12 and 41. But the distributor is firing all plugs and im getting spark.

TNRabbit

Code 41 is TPS. Did you put it on backward?

Code 12 is probably RPM signal fault. I'm guessing you have either have a bad connection to the sensor or the TPS code is throwing this off as well.

mitfan311

NO from what I can tell it will only go on and work one way. If its on backwards then part of the metal from the intake thing or whatever you call it will hit it and that wouldnt make sense. the connection prongs or the plug in area is facing towards the driverside.

mitfan311

I also replaced the ignitor and code 12 went away. but still no change.

mitfan311

Well I replaced the ignitor. Now all i have is the TPS code. SO something else must be wrong. Im going to tpull the plenum back off today and double check everything. Im in Med School. With all the crap i have running through my brain there is likely something i overlooked. But it just seems odd that with perfect ignition timing and perfect t-belt timing along with solid compression and good spark that im not getting anything. Not even a pop.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Starter fluid can be your friend, also you can pour some gas into the manifold with a funnel. Not much, just a little.

dave_n_ky

Find the problem?

mitfan311

Ive had a generic/universal radiator cap ever since i bought my 95 3.Ohhh.
Its the type with the red lever that you can lift to release pressure. My problem is that transfer never occurs between the coolant reservoir and the radiator. There were a couple of occasions where it completely overheated. The first time was the worst. It was summer and I was driving around several miles from home when the truck began to behave as if it was having trouble getting fuel or a spark. Then I began to hear loud knocking. Then the car shut off. I was stunned. Figured I had just experienced catastrophic failure. It was night and I wasnt in the best neighborhood. (Memphis) I turned the key (figuring that it was trashed) but it would crank without any odd noise but it wouldnt start. Then I noticed my temp gauge was maxed out in the red. I hoped out. Grabbed my Pistol and a flashlight. Thee was almost no steam but extreme heat. I called a few friends and they managed to tow me back to my buddy's house. I quickly realized my water pump had gone bad. So I spent an afternoon replacing it. I had been waiting for this thing to blow a head gasket cuz we all know they do. Soon after I noticed my gauge starting to rise and steam. So i pulled over and found that one of the small hoses for the heater hoses had blown. I fixed that. But then another hose blew later on. This time it was game over. The day I had been waiting for. White smoke/steam from the tail pipe and watter dripping from the muffler. So I had all the parts ready. I even had an entire separate intake. Plenum , manifold, and two heads. I had spent the last several months preparing myself for this. The cool part was that I had port matched everything. Even the machine shop guy said I did a great job. He was the one who rebuilt the heads. So I replaced everything hoses, knock sensor t-belt, the works. And added my downey headers. Once done and fine tuned The truck ran great. Until one day I saw the temp gauge rising. I pulled over right then. I lifted the red lever on the radiator cap and steam blasted out as i expected. I couldnt see any coolant in the radiator so I found some guys water hose and started slowly adding in more water. It must have taken a whole gallon. But there were no leaks that i could find. Drove it home it stayed cool. Make a long story short I pulled dipstick and found I had a milkshake oil. I drained it all out. Poured in new oil with and an oil detergent. Ran it for 5 mins and emptied it out. I drained what little was left of the coolant and left the new oil in. 1 week later I got hired out of state. I took my moms Blazer and headed off for my new high paying job. NOW I have a 99 3.4 with 108,000 miles. Im selling the 4runner but im convinced its not the head gasket. They were installed carefully and correctly and tightened in correct order with new head bolts. The rest is a blur cuz I had taken it apart down to the heads before. My Father who is very Mechanically inclined has since refiled the radiator and cranked it up. Drove it around on the interstate and came back to find another milkshake. But it didnt overheat he said. So he drained everything and refilled with oil and coolant/water. There is no smoke/steam from tail pipe. He questioned why the radiator reservoir wasnt the refill point and i explained that it wont pull in coolant from there. It only blows out steam into it when hot. He thinks that since the radiator cap was allowing no in or out transfer without raising the lever, That head gaskets arnt the issue but more likely the intake manifold gaskets. The water/coolant gets so hot it finds the weakest point to relieve pressure. All the hoses were new and had new tight clamps. The weak point is most likely the intake manifold he says cuz we followed the head gasket procedure to a tee. Exactly as the FSM says. But i doubt I even looked at torque specs once the heads and headers were on. I was careful with the refurbished injectors and o-ring installation. But I was just ready to get the thing back together. I dont even remember putting the intake gaskets back on. Although i know I did cuz i would have noticed the leftovers. Only being careful with the injectors. The rest I did by memory. No oil in coolant just coolant in oil. Could my quick and rushed intake/plenum assembly be connected with a radiator cap that allows no escape or return? The milk shake was drained both times immediately and then flushed with oil & sludge detergent, then replaced with oil. My dad has built and raced muscle cars since he was 16. He even beat Joe Lunati once. I does have a small oil leak that I cant really find since everything underneath is covered with oil from previous leaks at the back of the old heads and power steering pump disaster. I would hate to think the block is cracked. If so the parts alone are worth $3000. Tires, suspension, alloy wheels, all the new sensors. And the ported intake custom heads and downey headers. etc, So what do you think. Because im not going back to Memphis for a while. My brother and dad can replace the intake manifold gaskets. Especially since there is no EGR Or any of its crap left to deal with. But whats the deal with the radiator cap? Dads going to get Toyota OEM he says. What do you all think? And please dont just say cracked heads and block just so you can have a shot at a cheap but new Knock sensor or The headers. or other. LOL. By the way. I have the old heads, intake and plenum with me. Ive already started port matching them as a hobby. The heads have already been tanked once and checked for flaws. Im not going to pay to have them rebuilt but i have all the parts labeled. I just like porting and polishing. Im a surgical assistant. The porting is good practice for hand control when your sewing tendons back or, correcting an aortic aneurysm. So I will sell the ported polished and carbon free heads, intake and Plenum for $40.00 plus shipping to whoever helps me figure this one out. So I will be in touch. I work on humans for money I work on cars for fun.
Thanks
Wes

Sportsmanphil

Unless I missed it in your story, I think you forgot to re-torque your heads.

This is a very important detail after a headgasket job. Once your torque your heads, put about 100 miles on it. Pull the covers and going in the correct order, loosen the head bolts about 1/4 turn and then torque it back to the correct spec..

I cant tell you how many of these stories I have had come through my shops after a home grown headgasket job was completed.

Second, get rid of the red leaver rad cap. They are not the best things to have. Get a standard cap and keep the throat of the rad clean.

Hope this helps.

mitfan311

I remember needing to do that with my 300zx. But I dont recall reading about it with the 4runner. I need to go back and read my manual again. I was very obsessed with perfect placement and the whole 1/4 turns and sequence. Although it makes sense seeing how Aluminum to iron is different than iron to iron. However on my 1984 300zx the procedure was to tighten down to certain specs in sequence then once perfectly torqued, the manual said to completely loosen all bolts in reverse order and sequence. Then tighten down again with the same sequence. I can see how that could possibly create a unique bond with the gasket and its mating surfaces. Fortunately I didnt have to install the engine, drive it then pull it all off again. I wonder if Toyota did that with all the recalls? Also. If im going to be loosening all the head bolts again I would be all to curious to remove the head completely just to see if a part of the gasket has been compromised. But I think that would mess up the mating/sealing if I did. Im not a big fan of having to remove the camshafts again just to get to the bolts. But if it needs to be done then I will find a way to do it. Has this been a big issue with anyone else? I love that truck but i really love the 3.4L. For the record with the modifications i made simply with the headers and the Port matched assembly, I felt like I was driving a completely different Truck. The key was finding the right fuel/air mixture on AFM and the right ignition timing. Also the TPS and idle adjustment. I cant tell you how much HP it gained but the power was there without question. However it still doesnt compare to the 3.4L. Anytime you make the engines job easier to breath in and out you increase HP and MPG. SO can the heads be lossened and re-tightened without taking out the cams? Ive hears people say they can do it.

Sportsmanphil

Ive spun wrenches from full line Chrysler to Bentley and ran a GM Proshop for many years. Some manuals will detail to retorque the heads and others leave it out. However all heads should be retorqued as its a common place.

If you pull the heads to look at it, you will need to replace the gaskets again.

The on going leak/heating may have already compromised the seal. If I understand the events, you might want to bite the bullet and replace them again. This time retorque the heads after 100 miles.

This is not only due to aluminum vs iron but head bolts have a measured elasticity. Once torqued the first time, a few temp cycles will cause an initial fatigue (stretch). Bolts have a given measurable stretch, something the re torque sequence will compensate for.

Pre stretched bolts are available for popular hotrod applications.

Google 'why re torque head bolts' and you will get an overload of similar stories.

drmix

Ive heard about this but didnt see it in the manual. Is it only necessary to do this for the OEM head bolts which stretch or am I going to have to do it for my aftermarket ROCK headbolts?

TNRabbit

1. The 3.0 does not require retorque of head bolts; they are Torque to Yield. They are also NOT to be re-used. Did you resurface the block AND the heads? IMPORTANT to do. I torqued my SECOND HG job down 1/8 turn past FSM recommended. I used a ROCK HG & ended up using an OEM from Toyota the second time .

2. You need an OEM Toyota radiator cap as it will allow the overflow tank to work.