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doesnt look the same, hmm.. I've found ones that look the same but say they are for an 87+ or an 86 with 4wd, or basically every combo except what i've got. Does it really make a difference?
According to their website, the black BVSV for 22R-E engines should fit all years 1984-1995. It is spendy though at $90.65, but it will be a brand new Toyota part. (you have to select "1984-1995 22R/22RE" Black the drop-down menu for the price of that valve/ switch to show up)
My mind has been working overtime waiting for my rad to get back and i havent been able to stop researching issues associated with the EGR ahah. Ive got a great theory going in my head right now all stemming from that broken bvsv. When the engine gets up to operating temps that bvsv should allow vacuum through it, to open the EGR, to allow exhaust gas to flow through the intake into the cylinders, which in turn reduces NOx, AND lowers the combustion temperature and power lost in the form of heat to the cylinder walls. With that valve broken, the EGR doesnt open after the engine is warm. (the EGR is also only open when you're on the throttle i believe) without the recirculation of gas, the combustion temperatures are super heating the cylinders, causing flash off in the coolant jackets of the engine. This coupled with even a semi clogged radiator could be my issue..... Is it wednesday yet?
Improper ignition timing can result in excess heat being rejected to the coolant.
I think thats basically what im getting at with a stuck closed EGR, right? not recirculating the exhaust gas causes an early ignition.
I haven't heard the pinging though, what are the chances that the bad bvsv could have causes internal engine damage? Idk when it broke so i cant say for how long its been broken, the engine still runs like a dream though, idles nice and smooth, and cruises pretty good on the highway still (minus the running hot). At this point im just worried other damage could have been being done... Or is it more of a "if i fix it before other symptoms arise dont worry about it" kind of deal?
I think your in the wrong track with the egr. Egr should only be open during cruising speeds at operating temp with the throttle just cracked open. It can lower the combustion chamber temps but not to a significant enough amount. From what I read, you seem to be having your problem mainly at a stand still while egr wouldn't do anything at all. I think your problem has to deal with a clogged cooling system or a bad water pump. I'm betting pretty good on a pump. I've seen a lot of them where the impeller will corrode off to almost nothing or separate from the shaft causing them to move a little coolant at high rpm and none at low rpm. I believe the bubbles you see is non flowing coolant boiling in hot spots of the engine. You said there was some belt squeal some times but the tension and belts were good. Remove the water pump belt and check for any play in the shaft and how difficult it is to turn. It should be pretty effortless if there's any play in the shaft or is hard to turn it needs replaced. It may be worth it to just take it off and inspect the impeller and the condition of the coolant passages to it.
When I had the belts off I was able to spin the water pump, no bearing flat spots, and no play, nice and smooth. To clarify, if I start the truck in my driveway and don't drive it at all, it will not bubble over, I've only ever noticed it bubble over after driving at cruising speed, and then coming to a stop, where it then begins to bubble. If I sat in stop and go traffic for three days straight it wouldn't bubble, it's only after getting up to speed and cruising around 45 mph for a significant amount of time. The pump also looks non-original, as in it's been replaced once already by a P.O. I definitely do notice some brown scaling on the coolant passages which you can see in the attached pictures hopefully. And I also have pictures of the bvsv part number.
Bvsv and part number Looks like mud, but isnt goopy. Stuck on there pretty good.
09-02-2017, 01:06 PM
