Transfer case leak?
08-25-2009, 01:55 PM
#22
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Well, I went to the dealer today, got my seal and a staked nut. 15 bucks. Now I have heard some guys putting rtv on the splines before putting it all back together. Anyone done this?? and I didn't get the gasket since I am just gonna drop the driveline, take off the companion flange and replace the seal. I will take some pics. Guess I am gonna be the guinea pig huh?? WTF? 
08-25-2009, 03:41 PM
#23
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well, I have a front output shaft seal gone. I'm gonna go tommorrow and get the inner seal and gasket. I usually go to Napa as well. And considering all these parts here are pretty cheap. mostly... good news!
08-25-2009, 05:58 PM
#24
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ok, so I finished it easily in one afternoon. The hardest part was swapping out gloves so I could keep the camera clean. Sooooooo, in other threads on this subject, Roger Brown (4Crawler) offered up this tasty tidbit and said its just about the same.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html
Folks, this is exactly how its done, just a different end of the driveline. So, the only pics I can post that aren't already on 4Crawlers deal are............
You can't see the drip but you can see where the leak kept the flange clean!!
You can see the oil thats been slung (is that a word?) onto the underside of the body. Nice coat on there.
So when I got done I felt the need to degrease and throw the pressure washer under there.
And finally. My part number was different then 4crawlers, so I included the pic. It was a different type of seal. The one I took out was the brass with rubber, the new one was the fully covered in rubber type.
Hope that helps you guys. I am by no means a mechanic, I am glad this site is here, made me more confident I could rip stuff apart. Good luck everyone!
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html
Folks, this is exactly how its done, just a different end of the driveline. So, the only pics I can post that aren't already on 4Crawlers deal are............
You can't see the drip but you can see where the leak kept the flange clean!!
You can see the oil thats been slung (is that a word?) onto the underside of the body. Nice coat on there.
So when I got done I felt the need to degrease and throw the pressure washer under there.
And finally. My part number was different then 4crawlers, so I included the pic. It was a different type of seal. The one I took out was the brass with rubber, the new one was the fully covered in rubber type.
Hope that helps you guys. I am by no means a mechanic, I am glad this site is here, made me more confident I could rip stuff apart. Good luck everyone!
08-26-2009, 05:47 PM
#25
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Went to check the fluid in the transfer case tonight and noticed it was full of water.
I have not been wheeling in since I've owned it, and it had a fresh oil change to the front axel, rear axel, trany, and t case when I bought it two months ago.
We have had a lot of rain lately. One day last week there was several areas that I went through that would have covered the t case.
Is there a vent plug on the t case that could be letting water in?
I checked the speed O cable were it enters the case. Pulled it and the gear out. When I did, a gob of watery oil came out of it also. But it did not look to be the area were water is coming in form. The seal felt good and tight coming out, no corrosion on it that led me to believe water is entering the case through the speedo gear. The O ring was not rotted or cracked, so I cleaned and greased it all and put it back in.
Cleaned around the out put shaft housing a little and it looks as though there are very small stress cracks around it. I noticed on the pictures that Kiyo posted that he may have some of the same cracks. How much of that is normal?
If the out put shaft seals are slinging oil out, would they let water in while driving through a puddle deep enough to get up to the t case?
I plan to steam clean the under carriage this weekend, and put in the t case out put shaft seals. I will post pictures of the cracks and the seal job then.
Thanks
I have not been wheeling in since I've owned it, and it had a fresh oil change to the front axel, rear axel, trany, and t case when I bought it two months ago.
We have had a lot of rain lately. One day last week there was several areas that I went through that would have covered the t case.
Is there a vent plug on the t case that could be letting water in?
I checked the speed O cable were it enters the case. Pulled it and the gear out. When I did, a gob of watery oil came out of it also. But it did not look to be the area were water is coming in form. The seal felt good and tight coming out, no corrosion on it that led me to believe water is entering the case through the speedo gear. The O ring was not rotted or cracked, so I cleaned and greased it all and put it back in.
Cleaned around the out put shaft housing a little and it looks as though there are very small stress cracks around it. I noticed on the pictures that Kiyo posted that he may have some of the same cracks. How much of that is normal?
If the out put shaft seals are slinging oil out, would they let water in while driving through a puddle deep enough to get up to the t case?
I plan to steam clean the under carriage this weekend, and put in the t case out put shaft seals. I will post pictures of the cracks and the seal job then.
Thanks
08-27-2009, 05:25 AM
#26
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T-case vents through the shifters. It could get some water in through the leaky seal, but I doubt you'd get very much. Not sure about the stress cracks...
Good work on the seal! I need to do the exact one on my t-case soon.
Good work on the seal! I need to do the exact one on my t-case soon.
08-27-2009, 05:18 PM
#27
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well, just finished changing my front output shaft seal... What a pain in the ass!
1. Front drive shaft, harder to remove than rear (for Sure!)
2. Companion nut was on there like crazy!(I'm 220lbs, army guy who has muscle) But thanks for help from a pipe wrench, got her off
3. The seal(original I expect) was probably not put on with grease. It was stuck on there like crazy. Had to tear it off in little bits and bits and bits. Had to dig out the groove with different tools and scrap and wire brush stuff off! What a pain!
4. everything went back together pretty easy thou. And only had to put in about 7/8 of a liter of 75W90. Took me about 3 hours or so. Ran out of sun light half way thru. But oh well.
Got lots of pics too. I'll post em later when i have some time...
Hope she dont leak no more.
1. Front drive shaft, harder to remove than rear (for Sure!)
2. Companion nut was on there like crazy!(I'm 220lbs, army guy who has muscle) But thanks for help from a pipe wrench, got her off
3. The seal(original I expect) was probably not put on with grease. It was stuck on there like crazy. Had to tear it off in little bits and bits and bits. Had to dig out the groove with different tools and scrap and wire brush stuff off! What a pain!
4. everything went back together pretty easy thou. And only had to put in about 7/8 of a liter of 75W90. Took me about 3 hours or so. Ran out of sun light half way thru. But oh well.
Got lots of pics too. I'll post em later when i have some time...
Hope she dont leak no more.
09-08-2009, 06:28 PM
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I was off today and the house was empty so I decided today was a good day to do the T case yoke seals and document it pretty good.
I started by reviewing 4Crawlers web site on his rear pinion yoke seal. And then reviewed the FSM.
Layed everything out and got the camera ready.
Started on the rear yoke seal. Dropped the drive shaft with a long 14mm wrench and long 9/16" wrench, I dont have two sets of metric wrenches.
The first thing I noticed was the PO went crazy with the RTV on the out put shaft splines. I went to peal some of it out and noticed I could move the out put shaft nut with my hand. It was staked on, but deffinately not to 90lbs. I unstaked the nut with a small punch and spun it off by hand.
I used the same seal remover from Harbor Frieght that 4Crawler showed, it works great. I think I am going to cut the T handle portion off. It was hard to get up into the front seal with it on there.
Once the old seal was out I realized I did not have a socket or anything else big enough to set the new seal in it.
The seal has an inner and outter lip on the inside. I coated that area with some molly based axle grease and used my thumbs to get it started. I realized that if I turned the yoke over I could use it and a big rubber mallet to set the new seal in place. It worked great.
I used Yamabond on the tips of the out put shaft splines, and the inner tips of the splines on the yoke. Yamabond is a sealing compond from yamaha that is pretty much all they use to hold their engines together. Applied right, it works better than anything I have used before. You kind of have to work fast with it, so there is no pictures of it.
Put a new nut on, torqued it down to 90lbs and staked it down.
Put the rear drive shaft back up and torqued it down. That all took about an hour.
On to the front yoke seal.
Dropped the front drive shaft and pushed it up into the frame and and cross member on the passenger side. It held real well there.
Noticed that it did not look like anyone had been in this one before.
Unstaked the nut and removed it.
Used the same HB seal remover to remove what I thought was the front seal. Turns out it is a light metal cover holding a felt dust seal in. I purchased the felt dust seal, but not the metal cover. Thought I was screwed as everything for my truck from the stealership has to be ordered. Took a good look at it and figured I could tap it back into shape with a large socket, and a soft faced hammer. It worked pretty good. I filed down the ruff edges as good as I could.
The picture shows an exploded view from the parts manual of the three parts you need to order for the front yoke seal.
Then I used the HB seal remover to remove the actual front yoke seal. It popped right out.
The front yoke seal is recessed 5/16". So I knew I would not be able to turn the front yoke over and use it to seat the seal. I rode up to the local hardwear store and bought a 1 1/2" piece of PVC pipe connector, the one you would use to piece together two pieces of pipe. Marked off 5/16" with a sharpie on one end. That way I knew I would not seat the seal to far into the case. There is not a lip to stop the seal behind the front yoke seal. I also coated the area between the two lips of the front seal with the same molly based axle grease.
Used the yoke up side down to set the dust seal in.
Used Yamabond on the shaft splines just like the rear.
Put a new nut on, torqued it down to 90lbs, and staked it down.
Bolted up the front drive shaft to the yoke, and filled it with fluid.
Took it out for a test drive and everything seems to be holding the fluid like it is supposed to.
On the way home I noticed it was getting hard to shift, so I stopped and checked everything, not find a problem, until I looked at the resivore for the clutch master cylender it was empty. I looked under the dash and it was all on the inside. Speed shifted to autozone luckily they had a duralast in stock. Spent the rest of the afternoon installing it, adjusting the peddle length, play and bleeding. Was a good find though. I thought I was going to have to do the clutch soon. But now after the MC, it is engaging right off the floor. And it is soft like it is supposed to be.
Pictures are still uploading to photobucket. I will edit them into this post tomorrow night. I have to get to bed. Work at 0400 in the morning.
I started by reviewing 4Crawlers web site on his rear pinion yoke seal. And then reviewed the FSM.
Layed everything out and got the camera ready.
Started on the rear yoke seal. Dropped the drive shaft with a long 14mm wrench and long 9/16" wrench, I dont have two sets of metric wrenches.
The first thing I noticed was the PO went crazy with the RTV on the out put shaft splines. I went to peal some of it out and noticed I could move the out put shaft nut with my hand. It was staked on, but deffinately not to 90lbs. I unstaked the nut with a small punch and spun it off by hand.
I used the same seal remover from Harbor Frieght that 4Crawler showed, it works great. I think I am going to cut the T handle portion off. It was hard to get up into the front seal with it on there.
Once the old seal was out I realized I did not have a socket or anything else big enough to set the new seal in it.
The seal has an inner and outter lip on the inside. I coated that area with some molly based axle grease and used my thumbs to get it started. I realized that if I turned the yoke over I could use it and a big rubber mallet to set the new seal in place. It worked great.
I used Yamabond on the tips of the out put shaft splines, and the inner tips of the splines on the yoke. Yamabond is a sealing compond from yamaha that is pretty much all they use to hold their engines together. Applied right, it works better than anything I have used before. You kind of have to work fast with it, so there is no pictures of it.
Put a new nut on, torqued it down to 90lbs and staked it down.
Put the rear drive shaft back up and torqued it down. That all took about an hour.
On to the front yoke seal.
Dropped the front drive shaft and pushed it up into the frame and and cross member on the passenger side. It held real well there.
Noticed that it did not look like anyone had been in this one before.
Unstaked the nut and removed it.
Used the same HB seal remover to remove what I thought was the front seal. Turns out it is a light metal cover holding a felt dust seal in. I purchased the felt dust seal, but not the metal cover. Thought I was screwed as everything for my truck from the stealership has to be ordered. Took a good look at it and figured I could tap it back into shape with a large socket, and a soft faced hammer. It worked pretty good. I filed down the ruff edges as good as I could.
The picture shows an exploded view from the parts manual of the three parts you need to order for the front yoke seal.
Then I used the HB seal remover to remove the actual front yoke seal. It popped right out.
The front yoke seal is recessed 5/16". So I knew I would not be able to turn the front yoke over and use it to seat the seal. I rode up to the local hardwear store and bought a 1 1/2" piece of PVC pipe connector, the one you would use to piece together two pieces of pipe. Marked off 5/16" with a sharpie on one end. That way I knew I would not seat the seal to far into the case. There is not a lip to stop the seal behind the front yoke seal. I also coated the area between the two lips of the front seal with the same molly based axle grease.
Used the yoke up side down to set the dust seal in.
Used Yamabond on the shaft splines just like the rear.
Put a new nut on, torqued it down to 90lbs, and staked it down.
Bolted up the front drive shaft to the yoke, and filled it with fluid.
Took it out for a test drive and everything seems to be holding the fluid like it is supposed to.
On the way home I noticed it was getting hard to shift, so I stopped and checked everything, not find a problem, until I looked at the resivore for the clutch master cylender it was empty. I looked under the dash and it was all on the inside. Speed shifted to autozone luckily they had a duralast in stock. Spent the rest of the afternoon installing it, adjusting the peddle length, play and bleeding. Was a good find though. I thought I was going to have to do the clutch soon. But now after the MC, it is engaging right off the floor. And it is soft like it is supposed to be.
Pictures are still uploading to photobucket. I will edit them into this post tomorrow night. I have to get to bed. Work at 0400 in the morning.
Last edited by TinMan; 09-09-2009 at 04:37 PM.
06-28-2011, 09:14 PM
#30
I know this is over a year and a half later, ...... but Mr. Corbin/Todd,...YOU ROCK! lol. GREAT write up, and it's helped me to decide to do it all, the right way, the first time! Unfortunately, it appears that my trans is leaking INTO my T-case, as it was overfull after 15 years of being untouched, .....so yeah, I guess I'll have to remove the whole sucker, eh? lol.
Bookmarked this page and WILL refer to it as I go,
THANKS, GUYS, ..... 1.5 years later or not, it really is going to help me out!
Bookmarked this page and WILL refer to it as I go,
THANKS, GUYS, ..... 1.5 years later or not, it really is going to help me out!
07-27-2011, 10:45 AM
#31
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Thanks for the pics and write up everyone!
I will be replacing the output seal on my 95 this weekend. What is meant by 'staked nut'? Is it necessary to replace the nut when doing the seal? Also, do you remember what size of socket I will need (if it's the same on my 95)?
I will be replacing the output seal on my 95 this weekend. What is meant by 'staked nut'? Is it necessary to replace the nut when doing the seal? Also, do you remember what size of socket I will need (if it's the same on my 95)?
08-11-2011, 07:54 PM
#32
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The "staked nut" is a nut that you put on a shaft that has a groove or channel cut into it. After you torque the nut, you "stake" it by taking a hammer and punch and pushing some of the metal rim on the nut down into the channel to prevent it from working loose. These nuts will always have a rim or ridge that is designed to be deformed in this way.
I had to grind down a small chisel to fit into the channel to lift the rim of the nut back up before unscrewing it.
good luck!
-chaz
I had to grind down a small chisel to fit into the channel to lift the rim of the nut back up before unscrewing it.
good luck!
-chaz
08-11-2011, 08:12 PM
#33
Thanks for the pics and write up everyone!
I will be replacing the output seal on my 95 this weekend. What is meant by 'staked nut'? Is it necessary to replace the nut when doing the seal? Also, do you remember what size of socket I will need (if it's the same on my 95)?
I will be replacing the output seal on my 95 this weekend. What is meant by 'staked nut'? Is it necessary to replace the nut when doing the seal? Also, do you remember what size of socket I will need (if it's the same on my 95)?
PS> I actually found the socket on clearance sale at Lowe's for 3.50$.... If you're lucky, they might still have one for ya(i got it weeks ago). I guess they're phasing out the Kobalt Sockets or something?
Best wishes,
Mark
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-13-2011 at 07:44 PM.
08-13-2011, 11:07 AM
#35
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Thanks for the replies. 30mm socket for the staked nut. I had use of an impact wrench which spun it right off. I didn't use any thread sealer cause there wasn't any used before.
01-08-2012, 10:33 AM
#38
Would be a good idea if you can grab one from the dealer. Couple bux; Worth the investment IMHO. You COULD just use a load of red locktite... But really? What if you need to get it back off due to an oops or something? I got a couple extras when I did my rear seal on the same job... Have 2 of the front one as well, in case I mess up.
01-15-2012, 01:07 PM
#39
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Marlin sells an out put shaft seal that works in bolth the front and rear of the transfer case. Used it when i did mine last week. And when used on the front shaft you can thow away the dust shield.
Last edited by windedwalrus; 01-15-2012 at 01:13 PM.
Thanks, Walrus.... that's good to know. 
