boice1971

I appreciate all the comments guys, I haven't had a chance to look at it, but I'm going to go ahead and get the parts and change it either way and do the head gasket well I'm at it. Truck has 193k miles and I don't know if it's ever been done, so I'll do it to be safe.

Now I have to decide where to buy.

dbcx

Anything wrong with the $50 timing set from AutoZone?


Yeah, it came from autozone good luck finding someone that knows what your talkin about. I quit using autozone and advance after i asked they guy for some shims for a dana 35 rear end if they had them.(long shot even from the dealer). They guy brought me cam bearings for a chevrolet small block,I just looked down and walked out. How do you argue with that? I use NAPA or Orielys, i have very good luck with them. The counter help generally sticks around and you can build a friendship, that helps also especially when you have crazy problems.

boice1971

The only parts store I've had a problem with is Advance. Went to get just standard tune up stuff when I first got my '71 F100; it has a 1975 351 in it. Told the kid I need a distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and wires for a 1975 351Windsorf. He says well what kind of vehicle, I tell him a '71 F100, he tells me I should sell it as soon as possible because somebody has swapped engines and my truck is no longer safe and I'd be lucky to even get it inspected.

anotherjeff

"he (the clerk) tells me (the truck) ... has swapped engines ... no longer safe ... lucky to even get it inspected."

He might be right!

Well, did it pass inspection?

I'm just ribbin' ya'll!

boice1971

How's that?

riceburner

If he had an 85.

boice1971

I'll start with a little history. A while ago, I started hearing a slight rattle at around 2000-2200 rpms, I assumed it was the timing chain. One day on the way to my parents house, the noise got louder so as I was nearly there (less than 1/2 mile away) I continued there and left my truck. Last weekend I went there to take the valve cover off to ensure it was the t-chain before I ordered a new one. No go, timing chain and guides look excellent. So I then adjusted all of my valve/rocker clearances, started the truck and same noise. So since I usually only make it to my parents house every couple of weekends, I decided to take the truck home so I could try to figure it out in the afternoons. The truck was running just fine, no change in power, good oil pressure, etc, just had the slightly louder rattle/ticking noise. So I get half way home, about 7 miles, and downshift to turn when suddenly it sounds like someone beating my motor with a BIG hammer and the truck dies. Sorry for the long history!

So this afternoon I take off the valve cover, all looks well. Take off the oil pan and find two thrust washers (see pics). I have never done any crank/rod/bottom end work, just timing chains, head gaskets, etc. and know nothing about thrust washers.

So what I need is to know what my next steps are, is my engine shot? can it be fixed? what to look for to know if it can be fixed? Any help, comments, suggestions are more than welcome.




Engine is 1984 22r, dual timing chain style, 195k miles, has ran excellent up until this point.

Thanks for any help.

TOYOTA 1

wow.. never heard of that before. is this a stock motor?

boice1971

Yes, as far as I know it is the completely stock, original engine.

Another tidbit of info.
I went out for the last shed of daylight to see if I could see anything else. Nothing "looks" visually worn or out of place, but like I said I don't know much about this end of an engine. So I then checked for play, and the only part with any is the the second connecting rod on the crank end. So I assume that was my terrible noise, but what exactly happened, and what caused it?

90YotaPickup

the thrust washers allowed the crank to shift maybe the crank throws were beating the inside of the block or connecting rods were beating it thats most likely what happened did you check the block for holes or scraping

RandyatBBY

Check to see if your end play on the crank is beyond tollances.

Jeenyus04

without thrust washers it will certainly be. The thrust washers go on the front and back of the center main cap. They are to help keep your crank centered. Like was posted the noise was probable from the crank shifting and the rod hitting the wall of the block. You will or atleast should do a bottom end rebuild on it. Pull it apart, have a machine shop check your centerline bore (the crank bore) and the hone the cylinders or bore them if you wish. Make sure you have your new pistons first to give to them to bore/hone to match. Have your crank checked to make sure it is true aswell.
I've got no idea how the thrust washers actually fell out, how many miles are on your engine. They must have worn down too far so you crank already had too much freeplay before they even fell out.
Oh and have your rods checked out too since #2 most likley hit something and if your crank was shifting all of them have flexed.

boice1971

Is it possible that the rod bearings wore out and that was the initial noise, but then from the vibration caused the thrust washers were sort of shaken out? I haven't taken anything off yet, but I can not see any worn spots on the block or crank just looking up from the bottom. Can I get a better description of what exactly to take off and look at in order to determine the exact repairs I will need?

boice1971

I took the cap off the second rod and here are the results.


Do you think it would be possible to just replace all of the bearings and thrust washers and all will be well? Or will I need some machining done? Or should I just try to find a replacement engine?

Bozack

Another thrust washer question. Noob to rebuilding 22r's. However, I have rebuilt several other engines.
My 4Runner has cancer of the frame bad, (I have one coming in the summer)...long story short was taking that engine out the put in my 2wd, same year (86) just carb'd, since that engine has a major problem. I went to swap the oil pans etc and found 1 thrust washer in the bottom of the pan. There is only 4k on the engine after full rebuild. Is there ANY way to just replace the thrust washer, providing the bearing it is adjacent to is fine??? Money is extremely tight right now as I am getting laid off from Freightliner. I had good oil pressure and the pan had no metal shavings at all. I do not see any marks on the block nor rod/bearings from below. HELP!!!!
Thanks,
Roy

http://britishmists.com/roy/thingy1.jpg
http://britishmists.com/roy/thingy2.jpg

jrealmuto1

I had four laying in my pan and I still done see where they go...

iselloil

Yank it and build it

84toyota4x4extcab

i agree

iselloil

They keep the crank from moving forward and back as you accelerate or slowdown,you said you down shifted or somthing like that.There was enough wear for them to drop out from the crank moving .Plus your other bearings you pictured was trashed.Youc can pay em now or pay em again real soon,yank it and build it.

'93WHITEKNIGHT.

yea im in the same boat