Holley or Weber
06-18-2012, 12:21 PM
#2
Registered User
My Weber tends to do pretty well when I'm in the high desert version of mud, but you may find it easier to find a snorkel adapter to save your air filter from being constantly muddied up for a Holley.
06-20-2012, 06:44 AM
#5
Registered User
If you use it on the road a lot (and care about milage) I'd do an Offy dual plane and a Webber 32/36. If you mostly just thrash it in the mud and have a lot of time at WOT, Offy single plane (or similar intake that a webber bolts directly to) and a Webber 38. You can do the addaptor plate to the stock intake but they tend to leak. Just my 2c.
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06-20-2012, 08:09 AM
#11
If you use it on the road a lot (and care about milage) I'd do an Offy dual plane and a Webber 32/36. If you mostly just thrash it in the mud and have a lot of time at WOT, Offy single plane (or similar intake that a webber bolts directly to) and a Webber 38. You can do the addaptor plate to the stock intake but they tend to leak. Just my 2c.
06-20-2012, 09:36 AM
#12
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summit has them and id do a holley since my motor is built but jus get the 38 and offenhauser intake will be sweet i think you also need to buy a 20r water neck
06-20-2012, 10:06 AM
#14
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well see thats where you went wrong. them 3.0's aint got nothin on the 22re boh.. But i guess we all got our opinions, i remember my first yota.. 85 Solid axle 22re 5 speed. 4 link in rear custom flatbed.. and 6.5 Cherokee coils in the front.. man didnt that thing flex.. sold it for 500 bucks :/
06-20-2012, 11:36 AM
#15
Registered User
Check this out:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1030042.htm
They might not allways be the cheapest, but their stuff is good, complete and RIGHT, in my experience at least.
In response to the 20R watter neck:
from the link
Warning: Both single and dual plane manifolds require an 81-83 style thermostat housing
So, not the 20R, I have an 81 and didn't remember having to get a different h2o neck/t-stat housing.
One other helpful piece of info:
Warning: Single plane manifold uses an 8 bolt water plate(under manifold)
Warning: Dual plane manifold uses an 11 bolt water plate(under manifold)
There are different intakes for the 20R vs 22R engines so if you were gonna do a 20R head you either wanna do it all at once or get the 38 carb and a ONE PIECE adapter like this
http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral...-p/1033028.htm
not the 2 piece that always leak like crazy, then get the intake when you get your 20R head.
Hope this helps!
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1030042.htm
They might not allways be the cheapest, but their stuff is good, complete and RIGHT, in my experience at least.
In response to the 20R watter neck:
from the link
Warning: Both single and dual plane manifolds require an 81-83 style thermostat housing
So, not the 20R, I have an 81 and didn't remember having to get a different h2o neck/t-stat housing.
One other helpful piece of info:
Warning: Single plane manifold uses an 8 bolt water plate(under manifold)
Warning: Dual plane manifold uses an 11 bolt water plate(under manifold)
There are different intakes for the 20R vs 22R engines so if you were gonna do a 20R head you either wanna do it all at once or get the 38 carb and a ONE PIECE adapter like this
http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral...-p/1033028.htm
not the 2 piece that always leak like crazy, then get the intake when you get your 20R head.
Hope this helps!
06-20-2012, 02:59 PM
#18
Check this out:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1030042.htm
They might not allways be the cheapest, but their stuff is good, complete and RIGHT, in my experience at least.
In response to the 20R watter neck:
from the link
Warning: Both single and dual plane manifolds require an 81-83 style thermostat housing
So, not the 20R, I have an 81 and didn't remember having to get a different h2o neck/t-stat housing.
One other helpful piece of info:
Warning: Single plane manifold uses an 8 bolt water plate(under manifold)
Warning: Dual plane manifold uses an 11 bolt water plate(under manifold)
There are different intakes for the 20R vs 22R engines so if you were gonna do a 20R head you either wanna do it all at once or get the 38 carb and a ONE PIECE adapter like this
http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral...-p/1033028.htm
not the 2 piece that always leak like crazy, then get the intake when you get your 20R head.
Hope this helps!
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1030042.htm
They might not allways be the cheapest, but their stuff is good, complete and RIGHT, in my experience at least.
In response to the 20R watter neck:
from the link
Warning: Both single and dual plane manifolds require an 81-83 style thermostat housing
So, not the 20R, I have an 81 and didn't remember having to get a different h2o neck/t-stat housing.
One other helpful piece of info:
Warning: Single plane manifold uses an 8 bolt water plate(under manifold)
Warning: Dual plane manifold uses an 11 bolt water plate(under manifold)
There are different intakes for the 20R vs 22R engines so if you were gonna do a 20R head you either wanna do it all at once or get the 38 carb and a ONE PIECE adapter like this
http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral...-p/1033028.htm
not the 2 piece that always leak like crazy, then get the intake when you get your 20R head.
Hope this helps!
06-21-2012, 06:23 AM
#19
Registered User
Just the carb and adapter would be all you need. I would highly reccomend getting a fuel pressure regulator and gauge as well. You could just get one of the kits that come with the Redline 2 piece adaptor and run that for a while, but, they are known to be problamatic. Depends on how long before you're thinking of going to the 20R head/intake ect. I did a lot of bit by bit mods to my engine as money allowed and ended up wasting some money on parts I later didn't need when I got what I REALLY wanted.
If you're "on the fence" about the 20R head, I'd get the 38, a one piece adapter, and start saving up for a good set of headders (stay away from headdman). Headders and carb really help "wake up" a 22R. I'm sure you will see some gains from the carb but you'll see a lot more with a headder and the carb.
On a side note, I hope you don't have to do emissions where you're at. I don't know if you'd get the 38 to smog. If you don't, pull most of the emissions garbage when you do the carb, cleans up the engine bay a lot and most of the stuff hurts the running of the engine IMHO.
If you're "on the fence" about the 20R head, I'd get the 38, a one piece adapter, and start saving up for a good set of headders (stay away from headdman). Headders and carb really help "wake up" a 22R. I'm sure you will see some gains from the carb but you'll see a lot more with a headder and the carb.
On a side note, I hope you don't have to do emissions where you're at. I don't know if you'd get the 38 to smog. If you don't, pull most of the emissions garbage when you do the carb, cleans up the engine bay a lot and most of the stuff hurts the running of the engine IMHO.
Last edited by Bingle; 06-21-2012 at 06:30 AM.
06-21-2012, 02:51 PM
#20
Just the carb and adapter would be all you need. I would highly reccomend getting a fuel pressure regulator and gauge as well. You could just get one of the kits that come with the Redline 2 piece adaptor and run that for a while, but, they are known to be problamatic. Depends on how long before you're thinking of going to the 20R head/intake ect. I did a lot of bit by bit mods to my engine as money allowed and ended up wasting some money on parts I later didn't need when I got what I REALLY wanted.
If you're "on the fence" about the 20R head, I'd get the 38, a one piece adapter, and start saving up for a good set of headders (stay away from headdman). Headders and carb really help "wake up" a 22R. I'm sure you will see some gains from the carb but you'll see a lot more with a headder and the carb.
On a side note, I hope you don't have to do emissions where you're at. I don't know if you'd get the 38 to smog. If you don't, pull most of the emissions garbage when you do the carb, cleans up the engine bay a lot and most of the stuff hurts the running of the engine IMHO.
If you're "on the fence" about the 20R head, I'd get the 38, a one piece adapter, and start saving up for a good set of headders (stay away from headdman). Headders and carb really help "wake up" a 22R. I'm sure you will see some gains from the carb but you'll see a lot more with a headder and the carb.
On a side note, I hope you don't have to do emissions where you're at. I don't know if you'd get the 38 to smog. If you don't, pull most of the emissions garbage when you do the carb, cleans up the engine bay a lot and most of the stuff hurts the running of the engine IMHO.
this is my truck I got a 1985 4 cly all stock its got a 3" suspension and a 2.5" body lift on it with 33"TSL Swampers the front and rear gears are welded with 4.10 gears its got a 3" exhaust split in to stacks coming out of the bed
Last edited by rednecktruck22; 06-21-2012 at 06:41 PM.
