85gijunk4x4

Youtube video below. The problem i am having is that whenever i go to start my truck it just cranks and cranks, like its loosing fuel pressure. It will sometimes turn over and start for a fraction of a second, and then die, like you will see in the video.

to get it started (wich isnt the best way, i know) i just pour some gas into a vaccumm line that leads into the throttle body/intake manifold.

whenever i spray fuel in there it will start right up, and run good untill the fuel burns out, then it will run crappy, but it still does stay running as long as my foot is on the pedal. It also did the same thing when i would spray gas onto the air filter. run good, then after all the fuel was off, it ran crappy.

the truck will not idle, though if i put my foot on the pedal and raise it up only 100rpm's or so, it does just fine.

I'm 99% sure i dont have any vaccum leaks, and the fuel filter is newish, probably only a couple months old.

now this is the part i took the video for. The truck idles fine while my foot is on pedal, holding the rpm up about 100 or so. now if i "feather" the throttle i beleive, by raising it up very slowly, the truck will run just fine, but you have to push the pedal down really slow. if i just try to use the pedal by driving normally, it will bog down reall bad, and run very rough.

the video sucks, i know, but atleast it gives you can idea. now the truck wasnt moving while i took the video, but while driving, and pulling its weight around, the pedal is much more sensitive, you really have to push it slow.

sorry the music seems so loud, it really wasnt loud at all from in my garage.

and NO its not chris ledoux's fault

85gijunk4x4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFZVXkz8oGI

85gijunk4x4

forgot to add, the MAF flapper right above the air filter makes a loud clapping noise randomly, though it opens right back up and doesnt complelty kill the engine, maybe just make it stumble for a moment.

and does anybody know how to set the position of this screw that this kid is confusing for the idle screw(cant remember the name )? if i mess with it, it will run fine for a couple days, then i gotta mess with it again etc. so i wanna know exactly where it has to be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXzDZSNSHJE

85gijunk4x4

bumppp. anybody wanna help me fix my junk??

peow130

that there screw right there is the air fuel mixture screw. Find the stock configuration and set it at that. Next, adjust the idle to stock turns
If that doesnt work, Check ALL vacuum ports for leaks.
If no leaks, check intake for leaks.
If no leaks, check wiring.
If no broken wiring, give up and swap in an SBC

85gijunk4x4

how do i find the stock location for the for the afm screw?

idle i beleive is un-touched and in the factore preset position, it did idle a few years ago, but never ran right after rain go into the gas tank

intake has no leaks, but the air filter should be replaced soon. might try that to eliminate variables.

will check wiring

will swap sbc if you can loan me some cash

and lastly, thank you

85gijunk4x4

bump. i need help!!!

85gijunk4x4

anybody else have any ideas?

85gijunk4x4

Figured i'd throw out that i just figured out the truck runs awesome with a gasoline soaked rag in the air filter box...

i'm betting money its the fuel filter..

toyota4x4907

Is that you in the second video?

That is the idle speed screw. While adjusting it, you need to adjust the ignition timing. There is no factory "preset" position for the idle screw. They just adjusted it as needed after assembly. By now, the engine is not running the same it did back in '85 anyways, so even if there was a preset, it wouldnt be correct.

I'll bet it is NOT the fuel filter. Have you checked the fuel pressure? and the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Look for vacuum leaks around there if/when you do.

Whatever type of manual you have should have testing procedures.

Also, check the AFM, COR, and such. Refer to your manual orrr 4crawler:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

85gijunk4x4

NO!!! it was some random kid (i thought it was a girl) i found on youtube. So that IS the idle screw?...cant be...

Have checked everything for vaccum leaks, couldnt find any, though dry rotted hoses could be leaking, who knows :/

so far havnt checked anything...i'm not at all familar with the 22re electronics, and i know you have to use the meters and etc. to check sensors, switches, etc. But i didnt know what to check, so i needed a bit of guidance...

toyota4x4907

Are there no CEL codes?

Yes, that is the idle speed screw...

85gijunk4x4

nope....no codes

and wow. i was always told (or under the impression, really) the idle speed screw was a little setscrew somewhere under the intake manifold

85gijunk4x4

will double check for codes tomorrow!

toyota4x4907

Newer engines dont typically have an idle speed screw that you can adjust at home, if even one at all. Idle speed is adjusted more with computers and sensors than a screw. 22res kind of use both.

andrewflores17

seems like it would be fuel since you have to fill it up just to get it to run maybe the pumps cloged or the lines are once you find out what it was let us know hope she lives again

85gijunk4x4

i hope so andrew. I know when i put on the last fuel filter, the "gas" came out almost black...I know the tanks gotta be LOADED with sediment, rust, dibris, water ETC. knowing where the truck came from, and seeing it in action first hand (i.e mudding, romping, swamping, etc. without a gas cap/fuel door) PLUS me being a cheapo and riding around with my guage buried under the E

i do want to treat it with that eastwood gas tank rust treatment stuff after i get it all figured out...regardless what the problem is, i know it needs it...

And i think once i figure it out, it would be a good time to take both of my trucks to the station and fill them to F and fill up everythime i hit a half tank, rather then hitting empty, and filling it to half

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I personally have not had good luck with any tank liner stuff. I have had Audis and Toys that I tried it on, with no positive outcome. I ended up sourcing used tanks for the vehicles.
I am leaning towards filter and/or fuel pressure myself. If the tank had water in it, and no treatment was added to eliminate the moisture, your tank is probably garbage. And will continually clog the filter. Moisture will pretty much destroy anything that is in regular contact with fuel internally. The inside of fuel lines, tanks, etc. This is somewhat a partial reason why carbs are mostly aluminum and brass and stainless. Less corrosion from moisture and air mix. Fuel tanks and lines are (supposed to be) primarily sealed systems. The "throat" or venturi system in the carb and intakes is generally exposed to ambient air. This and heat dissipation is the primary reason for the more precious metals in the intake system. Anyway, I wouldnt worry with sensor values just yet. You need to make sure your engine baselines are good first. Fuel, air, and spark. If you have these, your engine will run somewhat. From there you can pinpoint sensors putting in their two cents and cutting back fuel... or retarding spark....

NO2HEAD

what i would do is fir up a gas can so the engine sucks fuel from there run it and that might fix it if not i would start going thrue the fuel system and just make shure everything is flowing properly and just make shure you kno your getting clean fuel

Jtoy92huntin

Sounds like you need a new fuel pump if the fuse and wires are good to it.