4runner with dreaded fender rust...my plan of attack
#1
4runner with dreaded fender rust...my plan of attack
1985 Toyota 4runner recently painted
So, like an idiot, over the years I removed the top off my recently painted 4runner every summer and forgot to cover the bolt holes. Rain got in and over time, I am noticing bubbling on the rear fenders on the flush face right above the wheels. I popped open the access panels from the inside and sure enough, the rivet dimples sandwiching the two sheet metal pieces together were rusting.
I took my 4runner to the place that painted it for their advice and they pretty told me this was a common thing for older Toyotas and something they didn't want to tackle. So, I am left fixing this myself. I plan on removing the inside plastic panels very carefully as they are horribly brittle at this point and spraying bedliner on the inside of the body--essentially sealing it and stopping future rust from occurring.
For the existing rust, I need some advice. I am pretty sure I need to dremel out the dimples to the point of no rust but then what? Should I fill in with Evercoat body filler or try welding in a new plate? The dimples look small but I know what is going to happen once I start dremeling--the rust spot is going to be larger and filler may not be the best option.
Either welding or filling is going to require repainting. Since there is no way I can match the paint and no way I am going to repaint the car, I am thinking of either fine textured Raptor bedliner or SEM rock guard over Rust-mort converter and Zero Rust DTM primer. Which product can be somewhat color matched and is good at repelling rust? Should I look at another product?
Thanks for any advice
JARED
So, like an idiot, over the years I removed the top off my recently painted 4runner every summer and forgot to cover the bolt holes. Rain got in and over time, I am noticing bubbling on the rear fenders on the flush face right above the wheels. I popped open the access panels from the inside and sure enough, the rivet dimples sandwiching the two sheet metal pieces together were rusting.
I took my 4runner to the place that painted it for their advice and they pretty told me this was a common thing for older Toyotas and something they didn't want to tackle. So, I am left fixing this myself. I plan on removing the inside plastic panels very carefully as they are horribly brittle at this point and spraying bedliner on the inside of the body--essentially sealing it and stopping future rust from occurring.
For the existing rust, I need some advice. I am pretty sure I need to dremel out the dimples to the point of no rust but then what? Should I fill in with Evercoat body filler or try welding in a new plate? The dimples look small but I know what is going to happen once I start dremeling--the rust spot is going to be larger and filler may not be the best option.
Either welding or filling is going to require repainting. Since there is no way I can match the paint and no way I am going to repaint the car, I am thinking of either fine textured Raptor bedliner or SEM rock guard over Rust-mort converter and Zero Rust DTM primer. Which product can be somewhat color matched and is good at repelling rust? Should I look at another product?
Thanks for any advice
JARED
#2
if you get it down to clean metal on all sides, you can try using automotive panel bonding epoxy instead of welding... the advantage there is that if you have truly clean metal, it seals off all oxygen, so it can't rust.
i've been looking at it for opening up the rear wheel wells on my 4runner.
i've been looking at it for opening up the rear wheel wells on my 4runner.
#4
Registered User
I wire brushed and then used Eastwood Rust Converter, Rust Encapsulator and white Rustoleum paint inside my wheel wells. For small spots missing metal I used fiberglass mat. You need to make sure not to close up drain holes where the rear fender is welded to the inner fender.
Slacker now makes fiberglass reproduction panels if your plastic ones are shot. Mine are still decent and I repainted them with Duplicolor plastic paint.
Slacker now makes fiberglass reproduction panels if your plastic ones are shot. Mine are still decent and I repainted them with Duplicolor plastic paint.
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