22RE Valve Adjustment w Go-No-Go
#1
22RE Valve Adjustment w Go-No-Go
When I've adjusted valves in the past (on old Honda motorcycles) I've always gone off of the "drag" of the feeler gauge. It wasn't until I got this Toyota that I tried Go-No-Go feeler gauges, and I want to make sure I'm using them properly.
For our engines, the gap spec should be .008 intake and .012 exhaust. Does this mean I should not be able to get a .009 feeler in on the intake side (reasonably, without too much force), or that I should be able to get a .009 in, but it would just have too much drag?
I've checked the valves on this engine twice, going off of drag the first time I only ended up adjusting a couple of them, then the second time using Go-No-Go feelers, I found they were all too loose, and I adjusted so that I couldn't insert the next size up (.009 & .013). I still feel like I could quiet it down some. I'm wondering if I was taking the "no-go" part too literally and should allow room for a stiff drag on the next size up, or if this is quiet as it's going to get.
Thanks for any advice.
For our engines, the gap spec should be .008 intake and .012 exhaust. Does this mean I should not be able to get a .009 feeler in on the intake side (reasonably, without too much force), or that I should be able to get a .009 in, but it would just have too much drag?
I've checked the valves on this engine twice, going off of drag the first time I only ended up adjusting a couple of them, then the second time using Go-No-Go feelers, I found they were all too loose, and I adjusted so that I couldn't insert the next size up (.009 & .013). I still feel like I could quiet it down some. I'm wondering if I was taking the "no-go" part too literally and should allow room for a stiff drag on the next size up, or if this is quiet as it's going to get.
Thanks for any advice.
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Damion812 (10-17-2020)
#2
Registered User
When the lash is correct, the tip of the go-no go should pass into the space,(some drag expected) and fail to enter farther when the .002 ledge of the root of the blade is reached.
A happy 22re clatters a little. They are not designed to be silent, as hydraulic lifter engines are.
Tight clearances burn valves.
A happy 22re clatters a little. They are not designed to be silent, as hydraulic lifter engines are.
Tight clearances burn valves.
#3
When the lash is correct, the tip of the go-no go should pass into the space,(some drag expected) and fail to enter farther when the .002 ledge of the root of the blade is reached.
A happy 22re clatters a little. They are not designed to be silent, as hydraulic lifter engines are.
Tight clearances burn valves.
A happy 22re clatters a little. They are not designed to be silent, as hydraulic lifter engines are.
Tight clearances burn valves.
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squeege (10-16-2020)
#5
Registered User
BTW, those specs are for the engine hot at full operating temp. I adjust them cold (because it's less hassle) but add an extra .002 to each spec. When the engine warms up & gets full hot, I've rechecked the gaps and they are perfect. The metals expand a touch to take up that extra 2 thousandths of an inch.
I use "normal" feeler gauges and adjust to light drag.
Millball is right, 20R's & 22R's are always a touch clattery; it's just their nature.
I use "normal" feeler gauges and adjust to light drag.
Millball is right, 20R's & 22R's are always a touch clattery; it's just their nature.
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Lzryde
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
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05-10-2015 01:33 PM