So I changed the diff and TC oil, question.
03-01-2009, 03:33 PM
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So I changed the diff and TC oil, question.
Hey all,
I bought my truck(82) a few mo ago and forgot to ask the p.o when the diff fluid and tc fluid had been changed, so I did it today, fresh valvoline 80w-90.
anyway, tc looked darn clean and probably did not need changing, oh well, its new now.
rear diff the lube looked black but like you would expect.
on to the front diff, when we drained it it was a puke greenish color!?!?!? seemed thicker then the rear diff as well, and very greenish in color.
luckly I did not see any metal in any of the diffs or tc, the rear diff seemed to have SLIGHT shimmery specs but tinyyyy. the magnetic plugs were clean.
So, what would cause the front diff to be greenish like that? I was thinking maybe it was a lot older then the rear?
I filled all 3 so that it was just seeping out of the fill hole, is that correct?
THANKS guys.
I bought my truck(82) a few mo ago and forgot to ask the p.o when the diff fluid and tc fluid had been changed, so I did it today, fresh valvoline 80w-90.
anyway, tc looked darn clean and probably did not need changing, oh well, its new now.
rear diff the lube looked black but like you would expect.
on to the front diff, when we drained it it was a puke greenish color!?!?!? seemed thicker then the rear diff as well, and very greenish in color.
luckly I did not see any metal in any of the diffs or tc, the rear diff seemed to have SLIGHT shimmery specs but tinyyyy. the magnetic plugs were clean.
So, what would cause the front diff to be greenish like that? I was thinking maybe it was a lot older then the rear?
I filled all 3 so that it was just seeping out of the fill hole, is that correct?
THANKS guys.
03-01-2009, 04:09 PM
#2
Front diff greenish color, smells terrible...that would be what is known as "pea soup" which means your front axle oil seals are leaking...grease is mixing with the diff oil. Time for a knuckle service kit and perhaps wheel bearings while you are in there.
Knuckle Service Kit
http://www.wabfab.org/products/frontaxle/frontaxle.htm
Fill until seeping out fill hole, yes. If you have a lift and have rotated the rear diff make sure to get enough in there, like perhaps through the vent hole.
Knuckle Service Kit
http://www.wabfab.org/products/frontaxle/frontaxle.htm
Fill until seeping out fill hole, yes. If you have a lift and have rotated the rear diff make sure to get enough in there, like perhaps through the vent hole.
03-01-2009, 04:15 PM
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Front diff greenish color, smells terrible...that would be what is known as "pea soup" which means your front axle oil seals are leaking...grease is mixing with the diff oil. Time for a knuckle service kit and perhaps wheel bearings while you are in there.
Knuckle Service Kit
http://www.wabfab.org/products/frontaxle/frontaxle.htm
Fill until seeping out fill hole, yes. If you have a lift and have rotated the rear diff make sure to get enough in there, like perhaps through the vent hole.
Knuckle Service Kit
http://www.wabfab.org/products/frontaxle/frontaxle.htm
Fill until seeping out fill hole, yes. If you have a lift and have rotated the rear diff make sure to get enough in there, like perhaps through the vent hole.
I researched on google and it seems to be a pretty common thing for the front diff oil to get greenish like that, seen a bunch of other people asking the same thing.So how hard is it to do the front axle seal and kit? and bearings if needed?
So would it be the knuckle service kit then? and possibly the knuckle service kit with wheel bearings? why is it more when you buy them together? is that your company?
and no, no lift kit just stock.
Last edited by 95yoda; 03-01-2009 at 04:19 PM.
03-01-2009, 04:18 PM
#7
Yep, after 20+ years and more than likely never serviced those axle seals wear out and the knuckle, which is packed with grease mixes with the diff oil and turns to "pea soup".
Typically they pack all that grease in there cause Toyota doesn't plan on going back in for 100K miles or so. Typically I just grease up the parts well and don't fill the knuckle full of grease...I mean it has a grease plug if you need to add any later.
Is this a trail truck or a daily driver?
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings is about a 3 hour job following the FSM. About 5 wrenches out of 10.
Typically they pack all that grease in there cause Toyota doesn't plan on going back in for 100K miles or so. Typically I just grease up the parts well and don't fill the knuckle full of grease...I mean it has a grease plug if you need to add any later.
Is this a trail truck or a daily driver?
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings is about a 3 hour job following the FSM. About 5 wrenches out of 10.
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03-01-2009, 04:32 PM
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Yep, after 20+ years and more than likely never serviced those axle seals wear out and the knuckle, which is packed with grease mixes with the diff oil and turns to "pea soup".
Typically they pack all that grease in there cause Toyota doesn't plan on going back in for 100K miles or so. Typically I just grease up the parts well and don't fill the knuckle full of grease...I mean it has a grease plug if you need to add any later.
Is this a trail truck or a daily driver?
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings is about a 3 hour job following the FSM. About 5 wrenches out of 10.
Typically they pack all that grease in there cause Toyota doesn't plan on going back in for 100K miles or so. Typically I just grease up the parts well and don't fill the knuckle full of grease...I mean it has a grease plug if you need to add any later.
Is this a trail truck or a daily driver?
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings is about a 3 hour job following the FSM. About 5 wrenches out of 10.
here is the great looking green.........
my front end, the balls of the birfields are very shiny, are they still good?
here is the truck....with the new m/t's on
03-01-2009, 04:38 PM
#9
Yep, that is classic "pea soup".
All that gunk on the bottom of the knuckles on both sides is where the axle seals have been leaking for who knows how long.
Your knuckles should be clean like this:
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings (includes the axle seals) will fix you right up.
All that gunk on the bottom of the knuckles on both sides is where the axle seals have been leaking for who knows how long.
Your knuckles should be clean like this:
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings (includes the axle seals) will fix you right up.
03-01-2009, 04:45 PM
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Yep, that is classic "pea soup".
All that gunk on the bottom of the knuckles on both sides is where the axle seals have been leaking for who knows how long.
Your knuckles should be clean like this:
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings (includes the axle seals) will fix you right up.
All that gunk on the bottom of the knuckles on both sides is where the axle seals have been leaking for who knows how long.
Your knuckles should be clean like this:
Knuckle service kit with wheel bearings (includes the axle seals) will fix you right up.
so the wetness under the "ball" is the leak from the axle side, coming out off the ball??
so on the other side it leaks into the diff then?
03-01-2009, 04:50 PM
#11
Wetness under the knuckle ball is from where the axle oil seal leaks, allowing the diff fluid to mix with the grease.
From the looks of things BOTH your axles oil seals are leaking, passenger and driver.
Here is a break down of the knuckle/front axle
03-01-2009, 04:57 PM
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85 4Runner solid front axle, heavily modified
Wetness under the knuckle ball is from where the axle oil seal leaks, allowing the diff fluid to mix with the grease.
From the looks of things BOTH your axles oil seals are leaking, passenger and driver.
Here is a break down of the knuckle/front axle
Wetness under the knuckle ball is from where the axle oil seal leaks, allowing the diff fluid to mix with the grease.
From the looks of things BOTH your axles oil seals are leaking, passenger and driver.
Here is a break down of the knuckle/front axle
I am new to this truck, only had it a few months now.
the only other thing I know I need to do is the parking break does not hold the truck, I looked at that cable the goes to the rear driver side wheel and that thing has a TON of slack in it!!! what can I do about that, wonder why it has so much slack? the truck was lifted off the ground on a shop lift, not sure if that makes a difference?
Last edited by 95yoda; 03-01-2009 at 04:59 PM.
03-01-2009, 05:09 PM
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03-01-2009, 05:16 PM
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03-01-2009, 05:51 PM
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so will all the 80w-90 gear oil come out of there when I take the birfield ball out of that socket?
it must be a very tiny leak because no fluid is ever on the ground, and I look a lot just to make sure.
is that grease mixing with the gear oil making it less protective fro the diff? luckly I did not see any metal or anything.
Last edited by 95yoda; 03-01-2009 at 05:54 PM.
03-01-2009, 05:56 PM
#17
Yeah! so basically it is just like taking apart a big "sandwich" removing the top piece of bread, then the ham, then turkey, then bacon, then condiments etc etc??? then just building sandwich again? haha.
so will all the 80w-90 ear oil come out of there when I take the birfield ball out of that socket?
it must be a very tiny leak because no fluid is ever on the ground, and I look a lot just to make sure.
is that grease mixing with the gear oil making it less protective fro the diff? luckly I did not see any metal or anything.
so will all the 80w-90 ear oil come out of there when I take the birfield ball out of that socket?
it must be a very tiny leak because no fluid is ever on the ground, and I look a lot just to make sure.
is that grease mixing with the gear oil making it less protective fro the diff? luckly I did not see any metal or anything.
Remember how clear the fluid was going in?
Remember how thick and nasty the other stuff was that came out? All that nasty stuff or some of it is still up in the knuckle mixing with your nice clean diff fluid making a lighter shade of pea soup.
Just means your diff oil is not staying where it should, as in NOT in the knuckle. It will just continue to leak and turn to pea soup until you fix it.
No fluid is on the ground cause you got about 5 lbs of dirt there absorbing it all.
03-01-2009, 06:06 PM
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Yep, drain the diff first.
Remember how clear the fluid was going in?
Remember how thick and nasty the other stuff was that came out? All that nasty stuff or some of it is still up in the knuckle mixing with your nice clean diff fluid making a lighter shade of pea soup.
Just means your diff oil is not staying where it should, as in NOT in the knuckle. It will just continue to leak and turn to pea soup until you fix it.
No fluid is on the ground cause you got about 5 lbs of dirt there absorbing it all.
Remember how clear the fluid was going in?
Remember how thick and nasty the other stuff was that came out? All that nasty stuff or some of it is still up in the knuckle mixing with your nice clean diff fluid making a lighter shade of pea soup.
Just means your diff oil is not staying where it should, as in NOT in the knuckle. It will just continue to leak and turn to pea soup until you fix it.
No fluid is on the ground cause you got about 5 lbs of dirt there absorbing it all.
so, the "knuckle" and "pumpkin" are the same thing? the diff fluid is not staying in the pumpkin/knuckle? so but a lot must be right? it did take longer to drain the front then the rear. I drove in 4wd about 5 miles too to make sure it was all warm in the tc as well.
so will my very basic 160pc or whatever mechanics to set cut it for this job?
its the kind in the "briefcase" plastic box
03-01-2009, 06:13 PM
#19
haha so you're saying I should not degrease that wet area until after the fix?
so, the "knuckle" and "pumpkin" are the same thing? the diff fluid is not staying in the pumpkin/knuckle? so but a lot must be right? it did take longer to drain the front then the rear. I drove in 4wd about 5 miles too to make sure it was all warm in the tc as well.
so will my very basic 160pc or whatever mechanics to set cut it for this job?
its the kind in the "briefcase" plastic box
so, the "knuckle" and "pumpkin" are the same thing? the diff fluid is not staying in the pumpkin/knuckle? so but a lot must be right? it did take longer to drain the front then the rear. I drove in 4wd about 5 miles too to make sure it was all warm in the tc as well.
so will my very basic 160pc or whatever mechanics to set cut it for this job?
its the kind in the "briefcase" plastic box
Tear the axle down.
Clean up the axle.
Pumpkin = differential (thing in the middle where the Ring and Pinion are)
Knuckle ball and knuckle...on the end of each side the part that pivots so you can turn
Look at the 4x4wire write-up or find a copy of the FSM.
You will need some special tools, fish scale to check preload and a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts.
All of the stuff is on my website on that link I gave you.
Other than that, a brass drift and a hammer to get the cone washers off and then a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm/21mm depending on your lug nuts and you are set.
Lots of rags, wheel bearing grease, and lots of patience and it is a pretty straightforward job. Takes me about 3 hours to do both sides taking my time.
03-01-2009, 07:47 PM
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Drain the diff fluid.
Tear the axle down.
Clean up the axle.
Pumpkin = differential (thing in the middle where the Ring and Pinion are)
Knuckle ball and knuckle...on the end of each side the part that pivots so you can turn
Look at the 4x4wire write-up or find a copy of the FSM.
You will need some special tools, fish scale to check preload and a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts.
All of the stuff is on my website on that link I gave you.
Other than that, a brass drift and a hammer to get the cone washers off and then a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm/21mm depending on your lug nuts and you are set.
Lots of rags, wheel bearing grease, and lots of patience and it is a pretty straightforward job. Takes me about 3 hours to do both sides taking my time.
Tear the axle down.
Clean up the axle.
Pumpkin = differential (thing in the middle where the Ring and Pinion are)
Knuckle ball and knuckle...on the end of each side the part that pivots so you can turn
Look at the 4x4wire write-up or find a copy of the FSM.
You will need some special tools, fish scale to check preload and a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts.
All of the stuff is on my website on that link I gave you.
Other than that, a brass drift and a hammer to get the cone washers off and then a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm/21mm depending on your lug nuts and you are set.
Lots of rags, wheel bearing grease, and lots of patience and it is a pretty straightforward job. Takes me about 3 hours to do both sides taking my time.
Does the 54mm socket use a 1/2 or 3/4 drive ratchet?
so the birfield=knuckle? the "ball"?
When I buy the stuff I will re-visit your link! thank you for the noob help!
