HighLux

Where you located?

sandman666

by looking at that diagram, it looks like im doing it right. don't know what the damn problem is!!!!

sandman666

long way from Missouri, im in texas near dallas

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Can you get it running long enough to check your timing??

mtrdud

I say vacuum leak. I would desmog and get rid all of the vacuum lines. Also check the timing. My weber likes 12• btdc but my truck is desmogged.

sandman666

Sounds like that is the only thing left! I was planning on doing it anyway.

sandman666

sitting here drinking coffee and I think I know whats wrong with this thing!!!! I installed a fuel cell in the bed and did away with original tank and fuel lines. I ran new line from cell to in port of fuel pump with inline filter and then I ran a new line from return port of fuel pump back to the rollover fitting on the cell. I HAVE NO VENT!!!!!!!! Anybody have an idea how to have a vent and a return line without drilling a hole in the cell??

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

You can do a couple things

One is to Drill a hole in the top of the tank and thread it for an elbow fitting to attach a hose to and hang it off the side. This would work better if the tank is baffled so that fuel is less like to slosh around and spill out of the vent tube.

Or the easiest solution would be to get a vented gas cap. Most automotive stores should have one in stock.

sandman666

The cap is about 5" around, doubt I'll find a vented cap. It's a metal tank with a plastic liner with foam inside. I think I will drill a hole and sandwich the liner with fittings and neoprene washers.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

oh, it's one of those kinds of tanks. I think you would be best off modifying the gas cap instead of the tank. Just do the same same fitting type deal, but do it on the gas cap so if you do mess up or it ends up leaking too much you just have to replace the cap and not fix the tank. Plus you won't get any metal shavings or debris in the tank while doing the modification.

sandman666

Turns out the cap is vented, but wasn't working. I removed the little rubber flapper and it now vents. I just wonder how much fuel I am going to lose due to evaporation.

bruzer

Noticed in your first post your timing is at 5btdc. have you tried kicking it up to about 8. believe that is where its should be anyways. the 22r's like a little extra.

jimbyjimb

iTrader: (1)

Hi Sandman,

It's tough routing out problems online, especially when you have a lot of info coming at you. Here's more;

The 32/36 is just barely enough carb for a bone stock 22R. If you have any performance mods, it will likely not provide enough air to the 22R at idle and it will run like crap. Also, Weber adaptor plates are notorious leakers. A vacuum leak will cause problems like this.

Also, your 32/36 may be under jetted. Here's how to find out; screw your idle mixture screw in until it seats (gently). Back it out 1.5 turns. Start truck. If truck won't idle, raise idle speed by turning in the speed screw. Once it barely idles, adjust your mixture to where it idles 'best.' If that 'best' spot is less than 1 turn out on the mixture screw, or more than 1 and 3/4 turn out, you need a jet kit and to follow the Weber tuning guide.

ALL adjustments are made with the vacuum advance disconnected and a fully hot engine.
Also, kick your timing up to at least 8* before tdc.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

That is not true at all. I rebuilt my friend's 22R - bored .030 over, port/polished head, oversized valves, Engnbldr 261 camshaft, LCE headers, 2.25" exhaust, Offy intake, lightweight flywheel, desmogged and Weber 32/36 with K&N filter adapter (I have built my engine similar, minus the Cam). He had it Dyno'ed at 141 HP and that was before he installed the Crane ignition and coil. It doesn't stumble during hard acceleration and has a good clean idle - He's also getting 18mpg with 31's. Now granted, the engine could make more and better power with a Weber 38 or 40mm sidedrafts, but to say that "The 32/36 is just barely enough carb for a bone stock 22R" is an extreme understatement. The 32/36 is a very practical and economical way to alleviate the problems of the stock Aisin carb and produce adequate power for a mildly to moderately built engine. If it wasn't then it wouldn't be such a popular add-on

sandman666

Well after tuning carb over and over and over again. Getting it to run pretty good and then starting the next day and it runs awful. Almost gave up hope, I got it running good, loaded on the trailer to take it to the muffler shop. Got there and started it and it sounded like only running on 3 cylinders and flooding really bad so when I got it back home I decided to check and see if maybe I fouled one of the new plugs. Guess what, one plug wire did not snap when I went to remove it!!!!!! Pushed like hell and finally got it to snap down on the plug, crossed my fingers and it started right up and purred like a kitten!!!! Damn I feel like a dumb ass!! So started all over with tuning the new carb and now it runs perfect! Sounds really good too, with the flowmaster and duals!!

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Don't you hate it when it's something really stupid and easy to fix, but still go through all the other steps before you find out it was something that simple? Despite not having a cylinder firing, it should have still ran fairly well - a lot of people run on 3 cylinders (even 2) for a while within minimal problems when a rebuild is pending due to low compression or piston detonation on a cylinder. I would still assume that the 3 cylinders that you had firing were probably flooding out a little - What did those 3 spark plugs look like? If you haven't installed an FPR yet, I would still recommend doing so - without it, you run the likelihood of creating a rich air/fuel ratio. This can cause flooding, stumbling, sluggish acceleration, hard restarts after stalls (caused by flooding), fouled plugs and lower fuel economy. Typically, you'll know it's rich because you'll smell a lot of gas coming from the exhaust at idle, have black smoke and/or sooty exhaust and likely won't need the choke for cold starts (might not notice this during the summer months). Weber doesn't recommend the FPR and 3.5 PSI for nothing - there's a reason for that so you might want to hop on board. It'll pay for itself in the long run in fuel economy and reduced headaches.

jimbyjimb

iTrader: (1)

My mileage varies significantly, and this is not my first go-round. My R is a bit more built than the one above you describe and I have it running like a top. I seriously doubt my engine with the 20r head, os valves/cc work and LCE street performer cam with more lift than the engnbldr with a 38/38 makes 141 hp. I also average 17.5-18.5 between city and highway. The 32/36 would not fill my engine's air requirement at idle and made poor power jetted up significantly. Swapping to the 38; idles perfect, makes huge power vs before, same avg fuel economy. More cfm, two 38mm synchronus barrels delivering air/fuel at idle. The LCE cam I chose is just barely too much for a 32/36 to keep up with. The .060 over 20R I ran with a mild Toyhead cam was testing the limits of the 32/36 at less displacement than a stock 22R. Required a big upsize in jets and idled ok, not great. Upper end power was still ok. 20R carbs are much worse than 22R carbs.

The engnbldr cam is a fine choice, use a cam very much larger and you'll see my point. The 32/36 is a fine carb that's vastly simpler than a stock carb but also flows less cfm than a 22R stock carb. It's a great choice for stock to very, very mild engines. The build you describe above is quite mild. ANY 22R will make more power and run smoother with a properly tuned 38. Keep your foot out of it and you'll get similar mileage.

83

Ha!

Sounds like me when I did my head gasket for the first time, put it all back together and started it, and it just wasn't right. Weak, sputtery, I thought I had really messed something up.

Well, turns out I had really messed something up...when I was putting plug #3 back in, I somehow pushed the gap closed, so there was no gap to spark across and I was only running on three cylinders. Ran great as soon as I got that worked out!

jimbyjimb

iTrader: (1)

Glad to know I'm not the only wrenchhead to moonlight as a knucklehead sometimes too.

It's always nice when it's something ridiculous. It is so hard to try to guide people through diagnosis online as one problem may have so many different sources. Glad you found it, Sandman.

sandman666

Thanks guys, I'm very glad it's finally fixed. I do want to put a regulator on it. I bought one from auto zone and its a real piece!! What brand regulator are you guys running? I,m going to order one in the next couple days. Also, I read somewhere that I should block off the return on the mechanical pump. Is that true?