myyota

The second heater core i changed took me just under four hours, it was the first one that i did that took me five hours to do because i had never done it before, and i was taking my time, finding out what all needed to come a part.

toyospearo

I sorta remember it not being that time consuming. I think I pulled the heatercore then went into town to get a new one and I ended up having to order one. I think the truck was down for two days but the actual work time was like 5 hours. Hell I don't remember

BoredOutnJackdUp

I picked up a ceramic heater that plugs into a cigarette lighter for 15 bucks at harbor freight!!

AZkid

i agree with this too my first time, the second time was much easier around

myyota

I will give you guys another tip, when the stock heater valve corrodes and will no longer open or close, upgrade to a heater valve from an 89 or later truck or 4Runner, its plastic and will not corrode. Ive had one on my 86 4Runner for the past couple of years because the original one was rusted closed when i got my 4Runner.

xxxtreme22r

hey, any photos of this? I need to do this as I have mine completely bypassed cus it was leaking and the fact that it would not open/shut. Did not know the new model would work. You can get these aftermarket, but the ones on the 1st gen runners are not available.

shaeff

If you find that the core is leaking, I'd just replace it. The first gen trucks are much easier to get the dash out on. I did the heatercore on my '94 Pickup and had it done in one day, while tackling several other projects at the same time. There's a link in my signature, but again, it's for my '94 but will give you an idea at least. Just look at that, and then simplify it. LOL.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Being a CA.(mostly high desert trips and NO corrosion on my truck) guy, .... is it more likely that my Heater Control Valve is just frozen up with goop? I've never ran just water, and yet, starting a few years ago, it started to become difficult to move that lever back and forth, ...so I'd just go out and push it in and out under the hood.

Now I have very lil heat coming through the vents, even when fully warm. It's warm enough for my City uses...but NOT FOR THE SIERRAS AND SEQUOIA HOT SPRINGS in Winter! lol.

I was going to try a RV Water Heater De-Calcifying/Rust remover soaking solution I've heard about from Thook and others... and then maybe either try to clean out or replace my heater control valve.

I was thinking that my core was leaking, causing that "wet driver side corner syndrome" I had going on....but I think even that was too far over(near the area where my left foot would go) to be the core, and more than likely, it was the Clutch Master that WAS LEAKING before replacing it.(Also, it ate the paint away pretty well where it dripped)...any thoughts? Maybe I should reach up in there and check for dripity drips off the inlet outlet on the core side up in there?

I don't seem to be losing ANY coolant, even before the build, and I mean over a year, ...no drop in coolant level.

myyota

This is a heater valve from an 89 4Runner, it is a direct swap for the original heater valve that`s known for corroding and becoming in operable. when i got my 4Runner the original heater valve was corroded shut and the heater control cable was bent from the heater valve not working.

xxxtreme22r

thanks man.

83

Well, I'm pretty sure we're in the pre-84, First Gen section of Yotatech, and op signature states 1983. But I could be wrong....

peow130

Not only that, but he posted a link so something that is 3rd gen 4wd, lol.