brooklee1000

Nice write up!! This is one of the better posts i have seen. I have an Aussie locker to install in my '82 and I got it because of reviews like this one. I can't wait to get it in and play!!!

904_runner

I read somewhere that the No-slip has more problems than the lockright. I think it was on this forum. I have always heard that the Aussie Locker was really good thats why I originally wanted one, plus the warranty!

It seems like most people i hear from say the lockright is good too and they have not problems, so i might just get on next check. Still deciding on what to do.

Or maybe lockright rear, aussie front? I am in the same boat as you, we do get some snow, but there is no highway driving on it, just around town is where there is snow.

I think ill go rear locker first and probably leave the front open though.

Matt16

I'd like a front locker but I don't really need one at this point. The rear is pretty effective on its own. I drive on snowy highways so its a selectable or nothing up front for me. If you only use 4wd off road, then an Aussie would be nice up front. It would allow you more steering ability than the ARB would when locked.

I don't know what you should do about the rear locker. I'd keep bugging Bill Cole until he finally gets the long overdue 4 pinion locker out.

904_runner

I shot him an email about a week ago, still no reply

86Original

If you have manual hubs, leave them unlocked on roads in snow. I drive to Winter Park Ski Area almost every weekend. Never put it it in 4WD all season, even when there was 6" of snow on the road since the last plow went through. No need. If the fronts are free-wheeling, 90% of the time you have better steering control than if you have it in 4wd. I saw tons of SUV's in the ditch this winter, and that's part of the problem. The full-time 4WD screws up your steering on slick roads.

The hood twist on takeoff is actually kinda cool. With an open diff, the takeoff isn't as positive because the torque is going to the wheel with the least traction (i.e. small amounts of slippage that aren't really noticeable). With the locker it's going to the wheel with the most traction, so it torque-twists the suspension. Swaybar might mute it a little. I don't have any sway bar connected.

Matt16

A couple of the roads I drive frequently get really slick when it snows and with the rear locker its nice to have the ability to throw it into 4wd to get you out of trouble on road. I don't find it limits my steering enough to be of concern. The roads are slick afterall. I think SUVs are always in the ditch because they are driven by morons who somehow think that because they can accelerate faster in snow, that they also can handle and brake better.

I also like the hood twist, but I want my rear sway bar back in. Otherwise the front just doesn't flex.

xcmountain80

Even with manual hub I find myself selecting which route will require 4wd and which will not. The F locker makes me use the 16 point turn method. And good god man is she hard to steer when shes in a bind.


Aaron

Matt16

Why don't you wire up a switch to control the ADD. Disengage the ADD by throwing the switch and you have 3WD. I've heard this referred to as the poor man's selectable.

leebee

are you suggesting to have the locking sleeve slide 'off' so you still have the tcase in 4wd but only one wheel turning up front? can you switch off the vsv like that?

lee

xcmountain80

Well if the add is disengaged then your in 2wd. The add only works with 4wd obviously, there is nothing you can do to make add not work. My 4wd is manual hubs which means no add I can manually engage 1 hub only but you still have to get out. This might be ok in snow,,,,, right?


Aaron

Matt16

ADD disengages the drivers side axle via a vacuum switch. Thus disengage the ADD with a locker and your drivers side free-wheels making it easier around corners.

xcmountain80

Maybe we are running in circles here, I have manual hubs.... so no need to disable add, if the hubs are off the cv's are free to spin to their hearts content. But if I'm going that route I mine as well just stay in 2wd with the hubs on. Though that poses the question if the add is dissabled then wouldn't you be in 2wd anyway? We can continue this via pm as not to junk up your well written thread.


Aaron

Matt16

If your 4runner has ADD (if you added hubs yourself), then when you shift your T case into 4wd, the ADD automatically engages the drivers side axle connecting it to the diff. Both CVs are always spinning when your hubs are locked, just in order to keep the front propellor shaft (from the T case to the front diff) stationary, one of the axles is disconnected from the diff. You cold effectively do this with manual hubs as well.

What I am suggesting is that instead of getting out of your truck to disengage one of your CVs, you trick the ADD into disengaging one of your axles to make a tight turn.

This might work well off road in tight quarters, but on the road in snow, I don't think it would be as safe as a front selectable.

xcmountain80

10-4, I knew we were on the same page. Yes that seems like a good option. Thank you for explaining.

Aaron

tolyho

904 said-

"Exactly, about the waiting part.

Ill probably give it another few months and continue to hope one will be produced, maybe it could happen, but when there is still no Aussie, then ill probably end up with a lock-right."

I got a reply email with in a couple hours the other day in question about the V6/Turbo Aussie and it was mentioned 4 weeks to ship so it shouldn't be too much longer. I happen to have a parts truck (turbo) that I'm stealing from so I just ordered a 4cyl Aussie that will move from the rear axle to the front when the turbo unit is available.

Great original write-up, btw

blueyoda

matt, I was thinking about a locker up front(aussie) but was concerned abouthte hiway 4wd snow/ice conditions too. When the truck is in 4h on a bad hiway I can drive 80km no problem. I have manual hubs and if I lock just one with a front locker set up would that be the same as I have now?

Matt16

I don't have any experience with a locker in the front as I have never driven one. Personally, I would go selectable or LSD up front because if my two rear tires spin, big deal, I fish tail a little and its easy to correct. The front two wheels slipped together, that would be bad I imagine.

Best bet would be to solicit the opinion of someone who has an Aussie up front.

blueyoda

thanks man, I thoight a lockers in the front would be less intrusive but if your say the rear works almost unnoticably then I might go that route. With the hubs I think I have the option.

bigt

yeah lock the rear first always especialy if you drive on roads and have ifs

blueyoda

I thought the hubs would totally eleviate all problems with locking the front, I could drive around none the wiser but when I needed it I could just lock both hubs and throw it in 4x. I have heard steering when locked is difficult but most trail riding is 2x anyway. I thought that I would be more likley to have both front tires on the ground as aposed to both back, and no locked rear issues while driving around.