In a recent post, you mentioned having a rebuilt your transmission a couple of times. I am going to learn to rebuild these transmissions, particularly the W series and the R. How did you learn? Did you just use the FSM as a guide and dive into it? Any tutorials that were helpful?I think 4x4wire.com had a tutorial on rebuilding the R and I think there is stuff on the W on YouTube, and of course, there's the ongoing thread right here on yotatech. I am fortunate to have a neighbor who is a recently retired Honda dealership mechanic, who specialized in transmissions, who has offered to assist me

I have an old G series tranny from my 84 xtra cab, left over after I swapped it for an R151F. I could tear into that without having to worry about the results. I also have an R150F left over from a parted out '88 4runner that I hope to use to replace the automatic that is currently in my '89 4runner. It has 180,000 miles on it. It could be a candidate for a rebuild as well.

Guess he might have it running by next year if we are lucky!! LOLOL Ordered two different block-off plates. The triangle one and the other oval one. He's done for the day. Not happy at all. So the next day he is off, he is going to do the back of the head. The ones from eBay should arrive and he can put them on. Thank you so very much for your help and sorry we had to bother you so much and take you away from your own problems. Maybe the break gave you a chance to regroup on your project. But seriously, thank you!!

Once its done, it kinda stays done. I've done it once 5 years ago, multiple clutches later its still good. There is a bleeder fitting on the slave cylinder but I bleed them at the line fitting on the master as well, air tends to rise.


I just did a cam and its much tighter than that. I'm thinking 6 and 10. If its loose it rattles, if its tight you lose power and burn valves, backfire out the intake. All kinds of bad signals. Do exactly as the manual says and it goes fast and easy and you are done in 40 minutes. you can redo again when its hot or see if it makes noise or loses power then you can tighten them up a couple of thousands.


Autozone sells the cheapest Chinese garbage parts under the sun. I avoid them.

Ok, he hasn't cut motor mount but, I told him to compare it with the old one that was broke and see if the holes lined up. He did and guess what? Good ole Auto Zone....the holes are off about 1/4 inch. He redrilled the holes so he can put a bolt in them and slide the mount to be tight and then tighten down the bolts. So problem solved without him cutting it!! YAY!! LOL Do you have any idea if the clutch has to be bled like you do brakes? The clutch pedal goes down easily and has no resistance. So will he have to do the same as with brakes and pump it while letting air out somewhere? Or what do you think? Right now he is adjusting the sides of the pistons and he didn't have a small enough feeler gauge so he ran to Auto Zone to get one. The book says the intake clearance is 0.008 and the exhause valve is 0.012. That's where we are at. He is thinking that since he has to work wed/thur/fri and is off the weekend, he will be getting it running then.

He said he didn't know how to do that to the engine. He is considering cutting part of the alternator bracket off. He will be working on it again next week so I am just collecting ideas for when he is ready to tackle it again.

He said you got cut off on phone call but to tell you he did what you said and the holes don't match up. I put a picture on the main thread of the gap. The other message was stuck on my computer and I guess it never got sent so you can ignore it if you want. Thank you for your help

see pictures on main board Ladies helping their guys...............
He found the allen bolt....clear under the intake manifold. Thank goodness it was in good shape, head intact and not stripped.

Sent you a message on the board

I'll keep my eyes peeled for you