Bumpin' Yota

o wow I forgot how hard the push tabs are to get out of the headliner till you posted that. I have a 2nd gen, so it may be differeint for your 3rd gen, but mine has 4 plastic tabs, like you describe, in the very rear of the vehicle, that have to be pulled out in order for the headliner to come out. In my case each one of those SOB's took every bit of 40lbs of direct downward force to be removed.

So as to not break them, I had to improvise - I used plumber's tape? (it's a zinc strip about 1" wide, comes in a roll about 25' long, with holes in it every inch. Its very malliable and pliable but is a metal of some sort - zinc I assume) I basically cut one of the holes out to the edge so that I could slip the tape btwn the roof liner and the tab. Then the tag ends I just bent down and put a large screwdriver through so i had a good handle and pulled. Removed all 4 tabs like this in under 5 minutes with no breakage.

HTM is the cheapest bar-none (i think) at 18bux per 48x36 sheet, but stinks to holy-hell for the first week. After that first week, the smell is 100% gone.

steve

Bumpin' Yota

ROFLMFAO!!! That about how I feel towards most chicks in general.... I have yet to meet one that can be trusted...

keisur

you got a webpage for this stuff steve? I did a search but I caint find none.

Bob_98SR5

Bumpin,

How much do you need to order? I'm sure the 3rd gen is just a little bit bigger so it'll be easy to figure out.

And which stuff should we buy? Here's what I found off the mcmaster website:



And while Keisur and I are at it, where did you buy all your other stuff? Esp the spray foam?

Bob

FattyCBR

Bob-

I think it's the Polymeric Mastic that is the 4th one down in the first table.

Bumpin' Yota

You want the polymeric mastic and I dont believe that they have a minimum order. My yota ate 4 sheets of the stuff and in reality I need more. 8 sheets would be copious (ideal in my book) to do the entire truck. All doorskins, 1/4panel skins, floorboards, roof, tailgate, then all the water guards btwn the metal door and the door panel should be replaced with it as well.

As far as the expanding foam, your local home depot/lowes/scotties has it. It's in a pressurized can usually labeled "great stuff" The black can is the triple expanding stuff and the red can is minimal expanding. When using the stuff excercize great care and patience in applying it. The slower you go, the less chance you have that it will blow out a body panel - ive seen a LOT of trunk lids that had to be replaced from people applying a full can,not thinking that it expands any more then when it comes out of the can.

Basically apply it in layers only about 4-6" thick and let it sit for 4 hrs or so btwn layers. Any more thickness than 6" and you are flirting danger. Another thing to note - even if the expanding foam is done and hard on the outside, it may not be on the inside. Inside it's probably still evolving CO2 gas. If you suspect that you added too much expanding foam and that it's applying too much pressure to the body panels, there's an EASY fix. Stab the expanding foam with a long screwdriver. This serves to vent off the pressure from inside the hardened shell of expanding foam.

Once the foam is done however there will be NO movement of the panels. Both of my quarter panels are as hard as a concrete wall. You can strike the 1/4 panel with the bottom of your fist as hard as you want and the sensation is just like that of hitting a wall - your hand starts to hurt bad....lol

ps - one more thing, expanding foam is probably the messiest and nastiest substance I have EVER worked with. It sticks to your fingers better then fiberglass, bondo, or casting materials, and ruins clothing like no other. If you get it on anything, your best bet is some sort of mineral spirit/laquer thinner along with copious amount of Fast Orange and a lot of elbow grease. If it gets on any of your interior, just let it set up and finish expanding, if the surface was armoralled it should just pop right off without a trace. Cloth is a different story however......

Bob_98SR5

Bumpin,

Could you clarify: in your first post you say to use 8lb carpet padding for the floorboard (that would be great b/c there's a carpet store behind my apt and they throw that stuff away on a weekly basis). In your followup post, you say that if you bought 8 sheets of HTM, that would be enough to do the entire truck, including the floorboard.

So if you buy 8 sheets of HTM, are you saying to use the HTM instead of the carpet padding on the floorboard? Or are you using both?

Expert and experienced advice like this is invaluable. I've saved this all to a Word file. THANKS!

Bob

gwhayduke

In the past I've seen two types of expanding foam at the hardware store: latex and polyurethane. The latex is water based, the polyurethane absorbs water as it expands and cures. I've been wondering if this water causes accelerated rusting of the body panel.

Any experienced users with an opinion?

HiLux_1990

Hmm, it sounds like you guys all have solid headliners... I don't know what would be harder to remove, but mine is a vinyl material with adhesive all the way around... around each edge... all the way down the A-pillars :pat:

Anyway, has anyone seen/experienced any installations with sound deadening on the firewall?

Thanks,
Dave.

keisur

Do you know anything that would react like this with methane? I seem to have alot of that today and if I could find a household chemical to use as a reactant then I could probably do this today. Otherwise I'll have to wait until the next time I eat mexican food.

Bumpin' Yota

no problem!

I meant using both is best. However, when you pull up your factory carpet, you will find that toyota has already laid down a good deal of a sounddeadener. You may or may not want to add to it - if you do, it will kill road noise even better.

Im contemplating using some of the 8# carpet padding on the interior side of my door skins on top of the current HTM (affixed with spray glue : HiTack-90 by 3M), but am unsure as of this point. It certainly can't hurt unless it got caught in the window track or something....lol

Bumpin' Yota

I have no idea if mine is water or latex based, but in order for metal to rust it needs oxygen. Rust is merely FeO2 or iron oxide. If there is no supply of O2 iron oxide cant form.... There would be very little O2 trapped in the expanding foam Id think. However the edges of the expanding foam my need some watching, but I havent seen any rust in mine after a year of the foam being there.

btw - I only used "great stuff" expanding foam from home depot...

keisur

I think I'm just going to give the HTM on the ceiling and walls and doors and leave the floor alone for now to see how well that works for me. I'm probably not going to mess with the canned expanding spooge since I don't want to accidentally muff things up. how about I just dump a bunch of shipping peanuts in the cavities? haha, then I could put plexiglass in place of the panels and when I get a lot of vibration I can watch the stuff jump around. hehe.

Bumpin' Yota

I dont understand your headliner question....you dont have a headliner, but only a vinyl material?

Im kinda terrified to FULLY take my dash etc out, just like how swapping fuel injectors would scare me, but if you know how to take the dash and everything completely out to expose the firewall, then by all means do it.

Steve

Bumpin' Yota

You'll notice the difference in doing just that. I dont think the packing peanuts would help vibrations, but the real question would be if you put a neon behind all the jumping plastic penuts, would it be MAD BLING BLING? lol Hey you could even spray paint all the plastic peanuts chrome!!

keisur

It would be Wickid Bling Bling as they would say in New England. haha.

Bob_98SR5

...or "Hella" or "Hecka" bling bling in the SF Bay Area.

Bumpin,
If you think the HTM and the #8 padding will help w/ the floorboard, I'm going to do that. Do it right the first time---no sense in tearing it up again.

Pretty excited about this. Now I gotta find the time to do it.

Bob

gwhayduke

Sorry Bumpin'... but it Iron does need H2O to rust. If all it needed was O2, cars would rust as readily out here in the desert as they do in New York. The reaction goes like this:

Fe + H2O ---> FeO + H2

or

Fe + H2O ---> Fe2O3 + H2

The question really is, does the foam lock the water up in its molecular structure or is it released to rust our panels from the inside out?

Shane

"Great Stuff" will absorb water if it's cured surface is broken, ie if it's cut. I used to use it as flotation for R/C boats.

second skin rep

Not quiet accurate

weight stops the vibrations, while foam absorbs the noise.
If you add enough weight to the panle they will no longer vibrate at audible levels.
adding weight lowers the resonant frequency of the panel. it will still vibrate, but will take much more energy (at same frequency) to do so.

there are severl catagories of acoustical foam:

open cell- absorbs sound
closed cell- absorbs some sound but reflects more

closed cell would be considerd a barrie
open cell is considered an absorber

Anyone can email me if you have any questions

service@secondskinaudio.com


ANT
www.secondskinaudio.com