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Installing a sound system into a 2nd Gen.

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Old 02-05-2008, 09:15 PM
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your rear speakers don't work because the power antenna isnt hooked up. the power antenna and rear amp are on the same circuit too so with the cd player on and for the rear speakers to work that damn antenna still needs to be up
Old 02-28-2008, 09:35 AM
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onlinecarstereo.com was great for me. their dynamat was a really good price and so were the two 10 inch alpine type r's that haven't failed me yet for the two years of abuse i've put them through.

make sure you run the power going down one side of your rig(probably the side the battery is on) and the audio/remote wires from the dash down the other side to the back

and when choosing an amp, less ohms=less resistance=more power

Drew

Last edited by 89pickupsr5; 02-28-2008 at 09:37 AM.
Old 03-02-2008, 03:42 AM
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Start from Scratch, Stereo

First thing's first, do you want SQ OR DB? I would cosider looking up a company called Q-Logic, they make pre-formed kick panels which will usually hold a 6 1/2 and a tweeter. They are a little pricey but do the trick nicely if your not good with fibreglass and such.Those you can run directly from the deck, if you don't want to run multiple amps. Now about Amps, GO OLD SCHOOL!, amps like the old RF Punch 45 and such. You dont need big gawdy amps to generate big sound. Choose good quality wiring, even Wal-Mart have a decent amp wiring kit. Do some research. Once you have an idea on what you want, go play on e bay, seriously.If you would like any advice I can send pics of my last vehicle, Grand total cost for stereo gear $200.00. Oh and by the way I won SQ trophies with it. I bought everything off e-bay for $200 bucks, which included Pheonix Gold Octane R series 6 1/2 component set, 2 10" Kicker SoloBaric Subs, Sony X-plode cd/mp3 player with remote, Monster cable wiring kit, GM battery post adapter, and a Zapco S-80 amp. I was asked if I wanted to compete in the under 400w class. Just picked up th 4runner yesterday so now I have a new project. I will be posting pics up as I progress. Oh and finally, be patient, it took me about three months to piece my system together.Cheers

Here's a link for my 91 check it out:

http://www.qlogicenclosures.com/c-3970-ql-k4002.aspx

Last edited by hiluxwanabe; 03-02-2008 at 03:44 AM.
Old 03-21-2009, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by crazn
I bought a Pioneer DEH-P5900IB and had it installed by the place I got it from and now my rear speakers won't work. The guy said they are blown but they were working perfectly fine with the stock deck up until the new deck was installed. I read somewhere that the antenna remote wire turns on the factory amps for the rear speakers... my antenna doesn't go up or down when I turn on the radio. Does that have anything to do with it?

I have no experience installing car audio. Do I run a wire from the battery into my amp for power? Then I run cables from my deck into the amp, and then lastly hook my subs to the amp? What gauge wires should I use from my battery to the amp, deck to amp, and sub to amp?

If it helps this is what I am installing:
2 10" MTX MZS1004 300W RMS subs
1 300W RMS MTX Thunder 2301 Mono-Block amp to power the 2 subs

I plan to power my 4 stock speakers from the deck.
You have to hook up the antenna power wire to the blue wire in the harness. The antenna power wire puts out the 12v current needed to power up the rear amplifiers.
Old 03-21-2009, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tylerh11
whats better 12in subs or 10s??
A 12" will USUALLY produce lower tones better than a 10", and a 10" will USUALLY produce higher tones better than a 12" (in their own range frequencies of course). How hard and clean they hit will depend on the enclosure [construction & volume], and amp.

Old 03-22-2009, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas91Runner
A 12" will USUALLY produce lower tones better than a 10", and a 10" will USUALLY produce higher tones better than a 12" (in their own range frequencies of course). How hard and clean they hit will depend on the enclosure [construction & volume], and amp.

I would argue that a 10" and 12" model with an equivalent motor design would produce the same frequency range, just that the larger cone could do it with a greater efficiency. The actual mass difference in the cone of a 10" vs a 12" is not that much, and should have little to no effect on the ability of the speaker to produce certain frequencies.

But you're right, it's 80% install, and how they're powered.
Old 03-22-2010, 06:46 PM
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Where are you guys running the wire to the battery through? Is there a grommet somewhere in the firewall?
Old 05-12-2010, 04:14 PM
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there is a large grommet on each side of the firewall you can use an exacto to get through
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