spring swap and traction bar questions.
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: benton city wa
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
spring swap and traction bar questions.
ok, so im building my 1980 if you didnt know that, im not looking for a big lift or anything right now, just looking to build a capable truck for a little money, i have a set of s-10 springs and im going to use them as rear springs for my toyota and swap the rears to the fronts,
my question is, why do i need a traction bar while doing this, is the s-10 spring that much softer, or what?
thanks
wade
my question is, why do i need a traction bar while doing this, is the s-10 spring that much softer, or what?
thanks
wade
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cartersville, GA
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not 100% sure about the S-10 springs, but I would say that the S-10 was probably spring under axle, and your truck is spring over axle. The S-10 springs are probably too soft to resist axle wrap in your application, meaning that you would need a traction bar.
I would suggest another alternative: Get the springs from a full-size Chevy, like I and many others have done. They are much longer springs and flex better, plus you don't need a traction bar.
I did my entire swap for around $120, including $100 for springs and Chevy shackles and about $20 for the steel needed to make front spring hanger and the rear shackles for the double shackle setup. I've still got my old double shackles that I'll sell for cheap if you want them. (I've since switched to single shackles in the rear)
I would suggest another alternative: Get the springs from a full-size Chevy, like I and many others have done. They are much longer springs and flex better, plus you don't need a traction bar.
I did my entire swap for around $120, including $100 for springs and Chevy shackles and about $20 for the steel needed to make front spring hanger and the rear shackles for the double shackle setup. I've still got my old double shackles that I'll sell for cheap if you want them. (I've since switched to single shackles in the rear)
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: benton city wa
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah, im gonna go with fullsize chevy's eventually but for right now im just gonna use s-10 springs, pretty much just so i can get the front suspension set up and whatnot. only have them on there for a few months.
how cheap is cheap?
email me waddyoungz69@yahoo.com
later
wade
how cheap is cheap?
email me waddyoungz69@yahoo.com
later
wade
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why would you wanna cut and weld hangers on your truck twice? don't know for sure how long those S10 springs are. but the Chevies are 63 inches long. IMO they are too stiff. and really hang up on rocks. Just build a traction bar. They are pretty easy to fab up. I built one for my cousin that works perfect. and only cost 30 dollars. I would bet you that when you change to the chevies, you won't like them.
axle wrap is when your pinion points up under power. basically, you have too much torque and traction. and the pinion gear will actually walk up the ring gear. this will cause the springs to bend into a "S" shape. my cousin could tell you about this. he trashed a brand new set of Rancho springs on his YJ. he's running 1 ton axles and a fORD 302. adding a traction bar will keep the pinion from moving up. but will still allow the axle to flex.
axle wrap is when your pinion points up under power. basically, you have too much torque and traction. and the pinion gear will actually walk up the ring gear. this will cause the springs to bend into a "S" shape. my cousin could tell you about this. he trashed a brand new set of Rancho springs on his YJ. he's running 1 ton axles and a fORD 302. adding a traction bar will keep the pinion from moving up. but will still allow the axle to flex.
Last edited by roktoy84; 08-13-2004 at 10:32 PM.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do the 1/2 ton chevies....the s-10 springs are 56 inches long compared to the 63 inch 1/2 ton truck....just did em and i love em....did mine for about 115 bucks....its easy and cheap...then your should weld your rear end(if you dont daily drive it) that is free if you or someone you know welds....rear to fronts(also free) then you will need brake lines...i just got some toyota brake lines from the junk yard and doubled them up...works great and its only like 3 bucks for the lines.....and then you need shocks...this is basically the set up i have and it works well....hope this helps!!!
#6
Registered User
Im running 63 chevies with a 2.5" add-a-leaf and ive had problems with axle wrap. I also have my spring center pins in the front holes of my perches so that doesnt help. As soon as I move my gas tank im putting a traction bar there.
If the S-10 springs are 56" then you could later swap to the F-150 springs which are 57". Then you can bob the bed whereas the chevies are too long for a good bob.
If the S-10 springs are 56" then you could later swap to the F-150 springs which are 57". Then you can bob the bed whereas the chevies are too long for a good bob.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Flying91
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
45
04-11-2024 04:39 PM
djpg2000
Tires & Wheels
11
11-11-2020 04:56 AM
FS[GreatLakes]: Toyota collection part out
88sasturbotoy
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
2
08-11-2015 01:56 AM
coffey50
Offroad Tech
17
07-28-2015 10:55 AM