Some new SAS questions.
10-23-2003, 02:06 PM
#21
Originally posted by Flygtenstein
Thanks for posting the pic, that is a good one to have handy for discussion such as this.
Thanks for posting the pic, that is a good one to have handy for discussion such as this.
Yeah...one picture worth a thousand word...in this case a thousand posts.
10-23-2003, 06:48 PM
#22
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Why don't you guys believe me? I don't have that vacuum pump shown in the picture. From the looks of the picture that is up front around the differential right? I'll take a picture with the Digi cam at work so I can show you guys. I'm not making stuff up. MAYBE, the person that had the truck ahead of me spent the time to remove every available evidence of the ADD... I have no clue... But I can tell you that I don't have ADD or anything that is a part of the ADD system. Just for kicks, where would the switch be on the interior? I'll snoop around and see if I can find evidence of a swap.
**Try as I might... I can't find any webpages with complete specs for each year Toyota. A page that would give each trim and each option. Were there any trucks that came stock with manual hubs and no ADD? I know that the previous owner made modifications since I have a T-100 axle with a detroit locker in the rear.....**
**Try as I might... I can't find any webpages with complete specs for each year Toyota. A page that would give each trim and each option. Were there any trucks that came stock with manual hubs and no ADD? I know that the previous owner made modifications since I have a T-100 axle with a detroit locker in the rear.....**
Last edited by OneTrickToy; 10-23-2003 at 07:18 PM.
10-23-2003, 07:34 PM
#23
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
I intend to sell my IFS diff when the time comes because it is ARB'd and regeared.
I intend to sell my IFS diff when the time comes because it is ARB'd and regeared.
10-23-2003, 07:49 PM
#24
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ADD does not have a switch or anything. It is a vaccuum actuated shift fork that slides a collar on to the stub shaft on the passenger's side off the front diff.
My vague recollection is that auto hubs were a late 80's deal and came with ADD?
Is it a runner? I would offer a firmer opinion if it were, maybe even a bet.
Mike, I posted one question about a low lift swap a couple months ago and already got a couple e-mails asking about the front diff. There is no time frame, but I am hoping the sooner, the better. Expect a post something along the lines of "I think something is broke"
My vague recollection is that auto hubs were a late 80's deal and came with ADD?
Is it a runner? I would offer a firmer opinion if it were, maybe even a bet.
Mike, I posted one question about a low lift swap a couple months ago and already got a couple e-mails asking about the front diff. There is no time frame, but I am hoping the sooner, the better. Expect a post something along the lines of "I think something is broke"
10-23-2003, 08:17 PM
#25
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
Mike, I posted one question about a low lift swap a couple months ago and already got a couple e-mails asking about the front diff. There is no time frame, but I am hoping the sooner, the better. Expect a post something along the lines of "I think something is broke"
Mike, I posted one question about a low lift swap a couple months ago and already got a couple e-mails asking about the front diff. There is no time frame, but I am hoping the sooner, the better. Expect a post something along the lines of "I think something is broke"
That would make me regear my 4.88 rear though. I'll probably bite the bullet for new. You really use yours - I need one that is gently used... maybe Keisur's? 
(j/k J)
10-24-2003, 09:41 AM
#26
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No, it's not a 4Runner. It's a 1991 Longbed 4x4 pickup. 5spd, everything manual. Not one extra factory option that I'm aware of. When I get to work today I'll take a picture of the front axle so you can see what I'm looking at.
10-24-2003, 11:45 AM
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Well, my boss took the digital camera with him to his daughters graduation. So.... I'll try and take a picture with my cellphone cam.... don't know how the quality will be.
10-24-2003, 04:59 PM
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no add on some trucks
onetrick toy is rite some of the 1989 and newer trucks don't have the add vacuum disconnect. all three of the 1990's and the 1993 4x4 trucks i got had manual hubs and no vacuum disconnect. just like his picture. i'll have to take his side on this one and prove he knows what he is talking about
i'll have to take his side on this one and prove he knows what he is talking about
10-24-2003, 05:15 PM
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THANK YOU! Someone that believes me! I thought I was alone out here.....
side question.....
Is that a diff drop bracket? Or is that the original diff bracket? It's the same color red as my rancho lift kit and front truss.... so I was thinking that it was aftermarket.... anyone know for sure?
side question.....
Is that a diff drop bracket? Or is that the original diff bracket? It's the same color red as my rancho lift kit and front truss.... so I was thinking that it was aftermarket.... anyone know for sure?
10-26-2003, 07:19 AM
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Ok, I'll stick my $.02 in here too 
Trying to use the IFS 3rd in a SAS is probably very doable, but why? I think that unless you are an excellent fabricator the cost of the fab requirements would outweight the cost savings. But if you want to try that route, here's a different approach to consider. Don't try to use the entire center section, rather, Loo at the option of getting your machine shop friend to make a ring holes tapped for your smaller diff, and weld it to the solid axle housing, or make at adaptor plate of some sort. In this way, you could use all of your solid axle parts and if you were to change to a standard diff in the future you could still mount it.
I don't know if the inner axles will line up or not, but it you did a bunch of measurements, you may be able to figure it out.
I'm thinking of an adaptor like I have for putting a 4cyl tcase on a V6 tranny. Most likely the idea of welding a ring inside of the addtional mounting surface is going to be your best bet, then cut it out later if you want to.
Does anyone know the axle size and spline count on the IFS axle vs the solid axle inner axle?
If this route isn't feasible, then I'm in with most of the other guys on this. Save the money and do it later when you're ready. If you stick that lockrite in, you'll wheel just about everything we have in the NW. Aggressive tires and dual lockers will get you just about everywhere. You're lift can be adapted with slightly different placement of your brackets and smaller bump stops to get maximum articulation at minimal cost. Access to a ramp would make this job much easier...
OK, so it was more like a nickel
Trying to use the IFS 3rd in a SAS is probably very doable, but why? I think that unless you are an excellent fabricator the cost of the fab requirements would outweight the cost savings. But if you want to try that route, here's a different approach to consider. Don't try to use the entire center section, rather, Loo at the option of getting your machine shop friend to make a ring holes tapped for your smaller diff, and weld it to the solid axle housing, or make at adaptor plate of some sort. In this way, you could use all of your solid axle parts and if you were to change to a standard diff in the future you could still mount it.
I don't know if the inner axles will line up or not, but it you did a bunch of measurements, you may be able to figure it out.
I'm thinking of an adaptor like I have for putting a 4cyl tcase on a V6 tranny. Most likely the idea of welding a ring inside of the addtional mounting surface is going to be your best bet, then cut it out later if you want to.
Does anyone know the axle size and spline count on the IFS axle vs the solid axle inner axle?
If this route isn't feasible, then I'm in with most of the other guys on this. Save the money and do it later when you're ready. If you stick that lockrite in, you'll wheel just about everything we have in the NW. Aggressive tires and dual lockers will get you just about everywhere. You're lift can be adapted with slightly different placement of your brackets and smaller bump stops to get maximum articulation at minimal cost. Access to a ramp would make this job much easier...
OK, so it was more like a nickel
10-26-2003, 11:15 AM
#34
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Well... I wouldn't need a ramp. I've got a forklift at work... 
In one of my earlier replies I made a comment about the inner axle spline count on the IFS. That was one of my concerns. It's a 27 spline, and the diameter of the axle is different than the solid axles too. I'm now looking into cheap modifications that I can do to my IFS. And I'm going to continue looking for a cheap solid axle. The main problem with my Rancho arms, are the pivot point. They pivot from the inside of the frames, and the arch on the arms is minimal. The don't have much droop, they end up hanging on the axle. I'll see about getting a few pictures of my arms later today. I could fab up a knuckle drop on the upper arms, and a block/spacer for my diff drop to lower it another inch or so, but then what would I do about my lower arms? This sucks... there really aren't any options.... only option would be the total chaos kit.... which is well over a $1,000......
In one of my earlier replies I made a comment about the inner axle spline count on the IFS. That was one of my concerns. It's a 27 spline, and the diameter of the axle is different than the solid axles too. I'm now looking into cheap modifications that I can do to my IFS. And I'm going to continue looking for a cheap solid axle. The main problem with my Rancho arms, are the pivot point. They pivot from the inside of the frames, and the arch on the arms is minimal. The don't have much droop, they end up hanging on the axle. I'll see about getting a few pictures of my arms later today. I could fab up a knuckle drop on the upper arms, and a block/spacer for my diff drop to lower it another inch or so, but then what would I do about my lower arms? This sucks... there really aren't any options.... only option would be the total chaos kit.... which is well over a $1,000......
10-26-2003, 03:27 PM
#35
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The option is to not worry about it. Throw the lock-rite in, get some aggressive tire and go have fun. If you're not pulling tulip joints apart on the IFS, then leave well enough alone and save the money for the SAS.
10-28-2003, 05:46 PM
#36
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weld it up
Weld it up and get ready to do the swap. I'm a broke college kid also but I'm over 10 grand in debt so I hate to say that I can't feel sorry for you. I drove around with my hanger on for so long that my buddy's were ragging me badly. Crawler was right about the 7.5 to 8" ring difference. Just go out and get a junkyard axle and rebuild it. Be sure to get the rear driveshaft out of the "donor" truck so you can fab up a new front driveshaft. I did my swap for under a grand. That's counting everything and then some. I really like how it's turned out. It's worth every penny!!!!
10-28-2003, 05:59 PM
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I may have a complete set up available in the future... Since I tend to do this a little on the aggressive side, I'm finding that the Toy parts aren't quite strong enough.
I'm looking now to do Dana 60s front and rear and have started the shopping for parts, adaptors, etc, that I will need.
That means that I will have a complete rear end, with new bearing, R&P with about 1000 miles on it, disc brake conversion, 5.29 gears, ARB locker and custom perches with a welded 2" lift block that's 8" long to elminate axle wrap.
If I go with the Ford 9" rear, that's all I'll have.
If I go with Dana 60's I'll also have a complete front end, including hub to hub parts, Alll Pro Hysteer, Longfield axles, 5.29 gears and ARB locker.
I'm drooling already thinking about a setup that I'll never break! I don't wheel as often as I'd like, but I do tend to run a bit hard when I do. They Toy rear axle is a little weak for the heavier 4runner, but perfect for the pickup and all you guys that want to upgrade from the 4cyl drive train.
For the pickup guys, the rear end will be a complete bolt on... 4 ubolts, 2 brake lines, 4 driveshaft bolts, pull out the old, in with the new and reverse the steps. 2 hours tops and no fab skills required!
I'm looking now to do Dana 60s front and rear and have started the shopping for parts, adaptors, etc, that I will need.
That means that I will have a complete rear end, with new bearing, R&P with about 1000 miles on it, disc brake conversion, 5.29 gears, ARB locker and custom perches with a welded 2" lift block that's 8" long to elminate axle wrap.
If I go with the Ford 9" rear, that's all I'll have.
If I go with Dana 60's I'll also have a complete front end, including hub to hub parts, Alll Pro Hysteer, Longfield axles, 5.29 gears and ARB locker.
I'm drooling already thinking about a setup that I'll never break! I don't wheel as often as I'd like, but I do tend to run a bit hard when I do. They Toy rear axle is a little weak for the heavier 4runner, but perfect for the pickup and all you guys that want to upgrade from the 4cyl drive train.
For the pickup guys, the rear end will be a complete bolt on... 4 ubolts, 2 brake lines, 4 driveshaft bolts, pull out the old, in with the new and reverse the steps. 2 hours tops and no fab skills required!
11-02-2003, 03:53 PM
#38
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Front axle –(free w/ a parts truck that I got my money back on) or 100-150
Axle rebuild kit from rocklogic for 87
Rear rubber brake lines to extend the fronts 18 each from autozone
Fj40 rotors 50 each
Your old calipers free
A hanger kit 200-220
Springs- some 84-88 rears not more than 100
Front drive shaft 150? (could build a square shaft)
Is that it?
Around 850. I only spent maybe 400. this of course assumes you can do the welding and cutting for free. i built my own hanger and used my rears in front and bought mazda rears for 100.
Axle rebuild kit from rocklogic for 87
Rear rubber brake lines to extend the fronts 18 each from autozone
Fj40 rotors 50 each
Your old calipers free
A hanger kit 200-220
Springs- some 84-88 rears not more than 100
Front drive shaft 150? (could build a square shaft)
Is that it?
Around 850. I only spent maybe 400. this of course assumes you can do the welding and cutting for free. i built my own hanger and used my rears in front and bought mazda rears for 100.
11-02-2003, 04:09 PM
#39
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Is that it? - good question. It depends on the end result.
Do you want any lift? If so, you can't go with the rear Toy springs. You can try some waggy springs if you know the right ones to get. Otherwise your looking at $300 - $500 just for the springs. i would assume that if you're going to the effort of an SAS you'll want more than the couple inches of lift the rear springs will give you. Blocks are simply NOT an option.
You didn't mention shock mounts - the old ones won't work. I assume you want to have some shocks...
I was wondering how you were going to steer?
Don't go with a square drive shaft.
Gears, lockers etc. Again, I make an assumption that you will be going with larger tires and need to regear. I also make an assumption that you'll want some kind of locker. OK, add close to another $1000 just for this if you have it professionally done.
Your $87 rebuild kit will not include trunion bearings or a master install kit. This is probably just a knuckle rebuild kit (and a good price at that).
What else - oh year, wheel spacers so that it's close the same width as the rear (again making an assumption that it's a V6 rear.
Steering stablizer and then I think I would call that everything.
Do you want any lift? If so, you can't go with the rear Toy springs. You can try some waggy springs if you know the right ones to get. Otherwise your looking at $300 - $500 just for the springs. i would assume that if you're going to the effort of an SAS you'll want more than the couple inches of lift the rear springs will give you. Blocks are simply NOT an option.
You didn't mention shock mounts - the old ones won't work. I assume you want to have some shocks...
I was wondering how you were going to steer?
Don't go with a square drive shaft.
Gears, lockers etc. Again, I make an assumption that you will be going with larger tires and need to regear. I also make an assumption that you'll want some kind of locker. OK, add close to another $1000 just for this if you have it professionally done.
Your $87 rebuild kit will not include trunion bearings or a master install kit. This is probably just a knuckle rebuild kit (and a good price at that).
What else - oh year, wheel spacers so that it's close the same width as the rear (again making an assumption that it's a V6 rear.
Steering stablizer and then I think I would call that everything.
