Some assembly required
#21
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Naw, thanks though. I'm getting the front shaft retubed for the rear and once the duals are in I'll send out the old rear to be redone for the front.
#22
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Be careful on the mearsurements. I knew that my flange was going to move back 6.25" after the dual case was installed, so to save time, I had the drivelines lengthened/shortened 6.25 each. Unfortunately, the geometry didn't work out and I had to have both of them redone :o(
#23
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Doing one shaft at a time, that way if I did screw up it won't be as expensive of a mistake. I measured it like 1 million times using an imaginary point where the output will end up and also compared the measurements with a hilift lifting the rear up two inches (frame only, not axle) as that's about how much more lift I'll be putting in. 48.5" was the verdict. Let's hope I was right, or else I'll be and
#24
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Marlin did not call the measurements in on my drive shafts until after the crawler/transfer case and tranny were bolted back up in the 4Runner.
Is it wrong to say what you saw?
Is it wrong to say what you saw?
#26
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Originally posted by sschaefer3
Is it wrong to say what you saw?
Is it wrong to say what you saw?
Originally posted by wolfhalen
YES! Finally your truck will be slower than mine!!!
YES! Finally your truck will be slower than mine!!!
#27
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no, but I still have the stuff to do it. I don't really know If I want a "fabricated" axle housing under the front of a daily driver.
I have a Chevy front 44 now, with the flattop knuckles. I just need to shorten it, and get some steering and shocks. I haven't worked on the rig in a while, save for the new engine I just put in. So my axle swap has just been sittin.....
I did buy a new welder though.. so that will make things easier.
I have a Chevy front 44 now, with the flattop knuckles. I just need to shorten it, and get some steering and shocks. I haven't worked on the rig in a while, save for the new engine I just put in. So my axle swap has just been sittin.....
I did buy a new welder though.. so that will make things easier.
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#29
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Hey Shane,
I'm curious (just cause I'm a toyota nooby)....how much should one expect to spend on this crawler deal?
It seems like you're getting a lot of packages Normally = BIG $$$
I'm curious (just cause I'm a toyota nooby)....how much should one expect to spend on this crawler deal?
It seems like you're getting a lot of packages Normally = BIG $$$
#30
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I used a sawzal and cut mine square. The boot that I got covered the "hole" thing perfectly. Without a short throw shifter kit, I did have to cut out more of the console than I cared to. I wouldn't win a prize for the neatest installation, but it does keep the dust and noise down and looks 'pretty' good. The biggest thing is that it shifts into all gears perfectly!
#31
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Originally posted by Jesse
Hey Shane,
I'm curious (just cause I'm a toyota nooby)....how much should one expect to spend on this crawler deal?
It seems like you're getting a lot of packages Normally = BIG $$$
Hey Shane,
I'm curious (just cause I'm a toyota nooby)....how much should one expect to spend on this crawler deal?
It seems like you're getting a lot of packages Normally = BIG $$$
I enjoyed dealing with Jim at inchworm. Everything was deliverd at the exact price he quoted and exactly whenhe said he would. I had an awful time getting through to Marlin. Even the dealers who said that they had back door ways of getting in, took about 3 days to get back to me. By that time, my inchworm product was already shipped.
#32
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Okay, is pretty expensive Especially considering that I'm Canadian, and I have to convert those dollars over
I have family in the states, perhaps I'll have to visit them on my vacation and bring something across the border with me
Is it the best bet for making the Toy ready to run big trails, without dropping a 350 in it
I have family in the states, perhaps I'll have to visit them on my vacation and bring something across the border with me
Is it the best bet for making the Toy ready to run big trails, without dropping a 350 in it
#34
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Originally posted by Jesse
I'm curious (just cause I'm a toyota nooby)....how much should one expect to spend on this crawler deal?
I'm curious (just cause I'm a toyota nooby)....how much should one expect to spend on this crawler deal?
MC07 (dual case adapter) and 4.7 gears as well as some extras like a clearanced reduction box housing, output shaft, shifter, shift forks and rods, etc.
$879 shipped, Xmas sale deal
Ack, screwed up. $879 for the adapter and gears, $150 for the extras and $20 shipping. so $1049...
From BudBuilt:
Dual case crossmember with skidplate
$250, no charge for shipping since I was upgrading from an earlier design that I bought from him ages ago and sold so I could get the newer design. Bud is a cool guy, and his products are top notch!
From High Angle Driveline:
Rear shaft - my front IFS shaft retubed and clearanced CV for more travel
$161 shipped
Front shaft - my rear shaft retubed and long travel slip added for the front
$249 quoted price plus shipping which should be ~$20-25 for me
So about $1720 total not counting the OSIFAT* factor, or in Canadian... ONE BILLION DOLLARS!!!
...gotta love that exchange rate
OSIFAT = Oh Shoot, I Forgot About That = tools, fasteners, etc...
Last edited by Shane; 06-05-2003 at 09:34 PM.
#35
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Originally posted by upndair
I used a sawzal and cut mine square. The boot that I got covered the "hole" thing perfectly. Without a short throw shifter kit, I did have to cut out more of the console than I cared to. I wouldn't win a prize for the neatest installation, but it does keep the dust and noise down and looks 'pretty' good. The biggest thing is that it shifts into all gears perfectly!
I used a sawzal and cut mine square. The boot that I got covered the "hole" thing perfectly. Without a short throw shifter kit, I did have to cut out more of the console than I cared to. I wouldn't win a prize for the neatest installation, but it does keep the dust and noise down and looks 'pretty' good. The biggest thing is that it shifts into all gears perfectly!
#36
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After ~18 hours of wrenching (at least half of which was spent cleaning undercoating/oil/sand/dirt off the housings) it's in with only two issues. Still have to boot the shifters, and need to bend them a little as well. I'll take some more pics later, this is all I have at the moment. Was too busy working and didn't have any help.
I don't need no stinking press! Just a bigass puller.
Input comparason. Stock 21 spline input on left, 23 spline input on right.
Now where'd that hole come from?
Everything went together smoothly, only problems I came across was a missing gasket in the kit from Marlin and two bolts that I didn't have from the donor case that I was blissfully unaware that I'd need in the first place. Some RTV and a trip to the hardware store took care of that. The driveshaft was exactly the right length, I have just over an inch of compression travel with it bolted up which is perfect. The BudBuilt crossmember bolted right in with no trouble at all.
I don't need no stinking press! Just a bigass puller.
Input comparason. Stock 21 spline input on left, 23 spline input on right.
Now where'd that hole come from?
Everything went together smoothly, only problems I came across was a missing gasket in the kit from Marlin and two bolts that I didn't have from the donor case that I was blissfully unaware that I'd need in the first place. Some RTV and a trip to the hardware store took care of that. The driveshaft was exactly the right length, I have just over an inch of compression travel with it bolted up which is perfect. The BudBuilt crossmember bolted right in with no trouble at all.
#37
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Originally posted by Brown
Holy cow, got meat? I didn't realize there was such a difference in the two shafts.
Holy cow, got meat? I didn't realize there was such a difference in the two shafts.
So, I was going to take some pictures tonight but I went and left my camera at work. Mabye tomorrow...
:pat:
#40
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dang, I sure like the BudBuilt mount.
I might have to sell my All Pro dual case mount and get one! Having two mounting points should help w/ the torque twisting when crawlin- and it looks like it's got better clearance too.
If you haven't done it already, you might consider chaining down the motor mounts to prevent them from breaking. I used 4 links of chain welded from the frame to the mount front and back sides of it, leaving just a tiny amount of slack to prevent the BUZZZZZZZZZZZ, and used a lighter weight chain looped over the top of the rightside mount and around the frame to keep down the twist when backing up.
have fun!
I might have to sell my All Pro dual case mount and get one! Having two mounting points should help w/ the torque twisting when crawlin- and it looks like it's got better clearance too.
If you haven't done it already, you might consider chaining down the motor mounts to prevent them from breaking. I used 4 links of chain welded from the frame to the mount front and back sides of it, leaving just a tiny amount of slack to prevent the BUZZZZZZZZZZZ, and used a lighter weight chain looped over the top of the rightside mount and around the frame to keep down the twist when backing up.
have fun!