So I finally made a set of sliders
#23
haha for the replies, thanks for the complements:
the sliders themselves are 2 x 5 x 3/16 wall, 6-1/2', the support tubes are 2 x 2 x 1/4 wall, and the frame plates and gussets are 1/4.... absolute overkill, but i figure if i change my mind with wheeling the truck in the next few months (which i change my mind more than most pornstars change partners), and i wanna cut em off, they'll double as framerails for something, just fish plate them where i butted them together
as for the frame plates, yes, a lot of ppl just weld them straight on, and its stupid, b/c the frames just under 1/8" thick, and it'll tear before a piece of 1/4" fails...... so i made the plates to spread the load out on the rails, and as for making them a diamond, dont, b/c every corner that you weld around, thats in the middle of the frame rail, gets wayyyy too much heat, and it creates a stress point, vs how i had the corners of mine, meet at the bottom of the rail, so the heat can dissipate through the bottom of the frame rail
as for the beads, thanks, been for quite some time now, went to college for it, do a lot of fab work on the side, had a few welding jobs, and in 23 days will graduate from college as a welding engineer...
shipping, hahaha they weigh about 75 lbs a piece.... drive to PA, and ill burn a set on for ya :thumbsup:
the sliders themselves are 2 x 5 x 3/16 wall, 6-1/2', the support tubes are 2 x 2 x 1/4 wall, and the frame plates and gussets are 1/4.... absolute overkill, but i figure if i change my mind with wheeling the truck in the next few months (which i change my mind more than most pornstars change partners), and i wanna cut em off, they'll double as framerails for something, just fish plate them where i butted them together
as for the frame plates, yes, a lot of ppl just weld them straight on, and its stupid, b/c the frames just under 1/8" thick, and it'll tear before a piece of 1/4" fails...... so i made the plates to spread the load out on the rails, and as for making them a diamond, dont, b/c every corner that you weld around, thats in the middle of the frame rail, gets wayyyy too much heat, and it creates a stress point, vs how i had the corners of mine, meet at the bottom of the rail, so the heat can dissipate through the bottom of the frame rail
as for the beads, thanks, been for quite some time now, went to college for it, do a lot of fab work on the side, had a few welding jobs, and in 23 days will graduate from college as a welding engineer...
shipping, hahaha they weigh about 75 lbs a piece.... drive to PA, and ill burn a set on for ya :thumbsup:
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yep, and its been proven, do some research if you dont have faith in my words
its all in how well you understand a metal's grain structure and the effects of heat input, along with the type, direction and magnitude of the forces it will endure.....
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also, with the plates in a <> configuration, the weight of the truck, roughly 4600lbs, when it gets let onto that slider, i dont know about you, but i would want as much surface area on the stress induced side.....
i might be young, but you ever seen the old school can openers, also known as a church key, here:
thats the same way a <> configuration's forces would get exerted on the frame rail... a little weird, but if you can picture that, and see how well a churchkey works... well, i wouldn't want that on my frame rail, especially after the amount of heat input that would come from welding
i might be young, but you ever seen the old school can openers, also known as a church key, here:
thats the same way a <> configuration's forces would get exerted on the frame rail... a little weird, but if you can picture that, and see how well a churchkey works... well, i wouldn't want that on my frame rail, especially after the amount of heat input that would come from welding
#27
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i don't remember sprinkler pipe being that expensive, but it is 20 yrs ago now.
oh and nice work. i like the choice of 2x5". i'd definitely like a set like these myself.
tj
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hey man, i used to work with sch. 40 pipe when i fabricated in a fire sprinkler shop. what's the difference between sch. 40 black pipe and the stuff commonly used to build bumpers and sliders these days? I see a lot of discussion here about DOM vs. some other letters, i don't know anything about metal.
i don't remember sprinkler pipe being that expensive, but it is 20 yrs ago now.
oh and nice work. i like the choice of 2x5". i'd definitely like a set like these myself.
tj
i don't remember sprinkler pipe being that expensive, but it is 20 yrs ago now.
oh and nice work. i like the choice of 2x5". i'd definitely like a set like these myself.
tj
#29
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the sliders im getting are tube from trail gear should i get a piece of 1/4 steel to weld to it and then weld that to the frame and should i guesset it too? and only on the sides?
Last edited by Quagland; 12-07-2009 at 06:41 PM.
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You're talking about DOM (Drawn over metal) or HREW (Hot Rolled Electronically Welded) its the difference between how it's made. However, whether it's DOM or HREW, it's all about the quality of the metal. Marlin Crawler has a good comparison between their HREW and Trail Gears DOM and Marlin's HREW is better than TG's DOM even though generally DOM is stronger than HREW. Pipe or "poop pipe" is not nearly as strong as these two and should not be used for anything integral to the structure of a vehicle, so no roll bars, frames, chassis, etc...pipe would not make a good slider because it would bend and dent way too easily under the weight of the vehicle.
and as for the mc or tg sliders or all-pro or any of them, its usually small diameter, 1/4" wall tube, which, when compared to 2-3" high pressure pipe, the pipe wins, just because it has a larger diameter, even while retaining a close to the same wall thickness... and i don't know what these people are smoking buying a DOM slider, which is what, $7/ft?????? to drag across rocks?!?!?!! to me, that just seems outrageous...buy cheapy, seamed tube, of 2 different diameters, and sleeve the tubes, or even sleeve tube with smaller diameter pipe.... if you're really worried about dents, in sliders, i think you're in the wrong terrain, b/c if you're playing in rocks, dents are the name of the game, you can play it safe, but sooner or later, dents happen
save the $$ for the DOM when you build a cage or a tube chassis... other than that, bumpers, sliders, skids, crossmembers, etc.... that's not super crucial, as in saving your body or passengers, don't waste the money for DOM...and remember, just b/c the cage is built out of DOM, doesn't mean the angles and stresses are perfect, there's more to design than people think and it's not all that difficult, but its overlooked when people get all wound up about what material to use..... i'd rather be in a pipe cage, that is designed to take enormous loads at any angle, where stresses are transferred through the structure instead of a load focused failure point, than be in a poorly designed DOM cage, any day of the week....
call be stupid but i designed a bridge out of 3/32" stainless tig filler wire, it weighed a pound n a half and held 985lbs, and also watched a guy drop a jeep on its side in a parking lot, slow motion off an rti ramp and tweaked the out his whole cage, not even 5 mins after he ranted n raved at how AMAZINGLY STRONG HIS DOM TUBING CAGE WAS... acting like it was made out of some super alloy, and i even said to a buddy, its a really poor design, and the guy said i was an idiot..... he later apologized, and i showed him exactly why it failed like it did....
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sorry for the ranting, but its subjects like this that too many un-educated people give in their $.02 and then people believe one thing and then more bs gets thrown around and before you know it, its someone explaining one thing, and another person's "well i heard THIS..." i know there's actual scientific tests that were done on a website and it was registered, the whole 9 yards, someone should find it or send something to mythbusters....
#33
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i had sch40 pipe for sliders on my old truck, dropped the truck on them numerous times, not a dent to be found, it wasn't just black iron pipe, it was high pressure pipe, lot tighter grains than just regular old iron pipe...also took a 3lb dead blow, with a ball peen and flat side and beat the living out of a piece of the pipe i was using, just to clarify for someone on a forum, now if i can find the post, or pictures, when i get time, ill look...
and as for the mc or tg sliders or all-pro or any of them, its usually small diameter, 1/4" wall tube, which, when compared to 2-3" high pressure pipe, the pipe wins, just because it has a larger diameter, even while retaining a close to the same wall thickness... and i don't know what these people are smoking buying a DOM slider, which is what, $7/ft?????? to drag across rocks?!?!?!! to me, that just seems outrageous...buy cheapy, seamed tube, of 2 different diameters, and sleeve the tubes, or even sleeve tube with smaller diameter pipe.... if you're really worried about dents, in sliders, i think you're in the wrong terrain, b/c if you're playing in rocks, dents are the name of the game, you can play it safe, but sooner or later, dents happen
save the $$ for the DOM when you build a cage or a tube chassis... other than that, bumpers, sliders, skids, crossmembers, etc.... that's not super crucial, as in saving your body or passengers, don't waste the money for DOM...and remember, just b/c the cage is built out of DOM, doesn't mean the angles and stresses are perfect, there's more to design than people think and it's not all that difficult, but its overlooked when people get all wound up about what material to use..... i'd rather be in a pipe cage, that is designed to take enormous loads at any angle, where stresses are transferred through the structure instead of a load focused failure point, than be in a poorly designed DOM cage, any day of the week....
call be stupid but i designed a bridge out of 3/32" stainless tig filler wire, it weighed a pound n a half and held 985lbs, and also watched a guy drop a jeep on its side in a parking lot, slow motion off an rti ramp and tweaked the out his whole cage, not even 5 mins after he ranted n raved at how AMAZINGLY STRONG HIS DOM TUBING CAGE WAS... acting like it was made out of some super alloy, and i even said to a buddy, its a really poor design, and the guy said i was an idiot..... he later apologized, and i showed him exactly why it failed like it did....
and as for the mc or tg sliders or all-pro or any of them, its usually small diameter, 1/4" wall tube, which, when compared to 2-3" high pressure pipe, the pipe wins, just because it has a larger diameter, even while retaining a close to the same wall thickness... and i don't know what these people are smoking buying a DOM slider, which is what, $7/ft?????? to drag across rocks?!?!?!! to me, that just seems outrageous...buy cheapy, seamed tube, of 2 different diameters, and sleeve the tubes, or even sleeve tube with smaller diameter pipe.... if you're really worried about dents, in sliders, i think you're in the wrong terrain, b/c if you're playing in rocks, dents are the name of the game, you can play it safe, but sooner or later, dents happen
save the $$ for the DOM when you build a cage or a tube chassis... other than that, bumpers, sliders, skids, crossmembers, etc.... that's not super crucial, as in saving your body or passengers, don't waste the money for DOM...and remember, just b/c the cage is built out of DOM, doesn't mean the angles and stresses are perfect, there's more to design than people think and it's not all that difficult, but its overlooked when people get all wound up about what material to use..... i'd rather be in a pipe cage, that is designed to take enormous loads at any angle, where stresses are transferred through the structure instead of a load focused failure point, than be in a poorly designed DOM cage, any day of the week....
call be stupid but i designed a bridge out of 3/32" stainless tig filler wire, it weighed a pound n a half and held 985lbs, and also watched a guy drop a jeep on its side in a parking lot, slow motion off an rti ramp and tweaked the out his whole cage, not even 5 mins after he ranted n raved at how AMAZINGLY STRONG HIS DOM TUBING CAGE WAS... acting like it was made out of some super alloy, and i even said to a buddy, its a really poor design, and the guy said i was an idiot..... he later apologized, and i showed him exactly why it failed like it did....
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I guess I used the word dent vaguely, but I totally agree with you and am not claiming to be a genius in the metal dept. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand, you can't make a lighter weight, strong cage or whatever with pipe than you could with tube. Pipe is generally larger, which looks funny in some cases, and heavier. Disregarding the price aspect and everything being built correctly, tubing would be better correct?
yes pipe is generally heavier, and is made more for liquid or gas transit, not structural integrity (buildings, structures, cages, etc...)...yet high pressure pipe has a much much tighter grain structure than just plain iron pipe...so right there is 2 different types of pipe, one which is wayyy stronger than the other, yet once the word "pipe" is used, a red flag comes up... do some research on different kinds of steel pipe, the results you find will interest you
by all means, tube outperforms pipe from a structural standpoint, but, it can be used for some structural applications, as long as it is used to support the loads it will endure, properly.... also, bending of pipe is kinda tricky, and bends tend to look a LOT tier than those done on tube, but can also vary with what style of bender that is used...if you look around, there's plenty of pipe cages out there, there's a few on pirate, that are small diameter pipe, look good, well designed and have sustained many flops and rollovers.
its more of a terrain choice i think, some people who really don't wheel insane trails, just want something in case they were to roll or flop, at a snail's pace, possibly more for looks, would not spend the $$ on say a chromoly or DOM cage, which would be better suited for a 100+ mph crash...saving money to use where its really needed.....
IMHO, i would go with either HREW or DOM and/or a mixture of both for a cage, both to save money and have reassurance where its needed, efficiently and effectively
but always remember, if you spend $1k on DOM n have some knitwit weld it for you, with ty notches and poor joint fit up, and some snot welds, you might as well have used pvc pipe....there's more to a cage than just the material used.... someone should make a thread about this and move this info that-a-way...keep this thread slider-oriented...
#37
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#39
I noticed you said you were going to graduate as a welding engineer. I'm a freshman in mechanical engineering, and I was wondering if a welding engineer is like a subfield of one of the major types of engineering. Welding engineer just sounds interesting to me, and I think maybe that fits me. Thanks
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its basically an industrial engineer-LIKE position.... but with a focus mainly in welding...our courses include the same ones as an industrial engineer, as in the quality assurance, engineering eco(six-sigma, etc...), etc, etc...all the same core classes, but with roughly 1280 IN SHOP, HANDS ON welding classes, thats spread out over 4 semesters, along with NDT, metallurgy, statics, strengths of materials, physics, etc, etc...
i could land a job as an industrial engineer, whether or not there was welding being done, but it would kind of make my degree a little pointless...its actually hard to explain it, haha thought this would be easier to spit out haha
and industrial engineer would design a structure, or weldement, then a welding engineer would come in and see which process and process design would best suit the product to meet or surpass a given requirement, such as strength, or flexability or continuous/repeated stresses, etc, etc.... which would also be done using the least amount of welding, people, materials, etc...which is where robotics starts to come into play...and then i could type for 3 days straight haha, lemme know if that answered your question or not....
but i did walk saturday, so im all graduated up now! now time to land a job.... for now im just gonna see how far i can push a small fab business until i find/land a job.... but i just moved all my crap home today from across the state, so i who knows whats gonna happen, its been a long day, to say the least
i could land a job as an industrial engineer, whether or not there was welding being done, but it would kind of make my degree a little pointless...its actually hard to explain it, haha thought this would be easier to spit out haha
and industrial engineer would design a structure, or weldement, then a welding engineer would come in and see which process and process design would best suit the product to meet or surpass a given requirement, such as strength, or flexability or continuous/repeated stresses, etc, etc.... which would also be done using the least amount of welding, people, materials, etc...which is where robotics starts to come into play...and then i could type for 3 days straight haha, lemme know if that answered your question or not....
but i did walk saturday, so im all graduated up now! now time to land a job.... for now im just gonna see how far i can push a small fab business until i find/land a job.... but i just moved all my crap home today from across the state, so i who knows whats gonna happen, its been a long day, to say the least
Last edited by axelkoup; 12-21-2009 at 04:57 PM.
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