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Project: im swappin this 2wd to a 4wd, screw tradin in.

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Old 05-08-2007, 06:53 PM
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When you get the transmission, get the rear mount, crossmember and drive shafts, that way you don't have to cut yours.

If you choose to go the ADD route, I can help with the wiring diagrams, so you can get the actuator to work.

Front diff with ADD, make sure you get the vaccum lines and the two vaccum actuators. The Manual transmission models use another solenoid to switch between the vaccum modules, activated by a switch on the side of the T-case. Make sure you get all the mounts and bolts to install the diff as well.

One version of the Taco T-case doesn't have a shifter comming out the top, but uses switches for selection, this is your best bet, since there's no cutting to make it fit.

Your front spindles are already set-up for 4x4, you just need to remove the axle stubs.
Old 05-08-2007, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
When you get the transmission, get the rear mount, crossmember and drive shafts, that way you don't have to cut yours.

If you choose to go the ADD route, I can help with the wiring diagrams, so you can get the actuator to work.

Front diff with ADD, make sure you get the vaccum lines and the two vaccum actuators. The Manual transmission models use another solenoid to switch between the vaccum modules, activated by a switch on the side of the T-case. Make sure you get all the mounts and bolts to install the diff as well.

One version of the Taco T-case doesn't have a shifter comming out the top, but uses switches for selection, this is your best bet, since there's no cutting to make it fit.

Your front spindles are already set-up for 4x4, you just need to remove the axle stubs.

i didnt know my spindles were setup, wow that saves me a little headache

also i do you think their is a lenght difference between the 96-00 trannies to my 01-02 4wd trannies, im going to get a driveshaft from a sr5 model which has the same case as what im going to be getting so that should help me get everything bolted in properly.



as far as rear mount, is that the xfercase xmember? i think theirs a mount that i have to hold the case up as well right?

thanks bruce for the help

Last edited by neliconcept; 05-10-2007 at 06:00 PM.
Old 05-09-2007, 12:44 PM
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i bought a tcase, i will take delivery on it tomorrow. they have to pull it out of that rig, kinda wondering if they have the driveshaft too but dunno.

I'll get pics of it tomorrow

I was going to get a driveshaft at the anderson yard, however it was seized, from somebody dropping the entire truck into some salt water (dont ask I dont even know either)

thats one of 4 things I need, looks like tranny, mounts, and shaft is all i need for step 1 of this process.
Old 05-10-2007, 05:41 PM
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heres one item I have in my stock.



next up, tranny, shaft and mounts.

tranny just got sourced 35 miles away from me, man was I lucky but its gonna be 100 more then the one in NC, but in all reality thats gonna be the gas i pay to get up there almost.
Old 05-10-2007, 06:03 PM
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good luck to you, at least it will easier than the canceled 1UZ swap I was thinking about.

Aaron
Old 05-10-2007, 06:14 PM
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You should have located a Taco transfer case that is electrically controlled, that T-case you got is gonna need a hole for the shifter......
Old 05-10-2007, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
You should have located a Taco transfer case that is electrically controlled, that T-case you got is gonna need a hole for the shifter......
hole where? i needed a push button case?
Old 05-10-2007, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
You should have located a Taco transfer case that is electrically controlled, that T-case you got is gonna need a hole for the shifter......
I agree, it would be cool to run dual cases with the rear case shifter ran electronically. No extra hole, just extra low.
Old 05-11-2007, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by neliconcept
hole where? i needed a push button case?
Up through the transmission tunnel, currently you have no shifter poking out, so with the T-Case pictured it has to come through somewhere. Which means the center console inside the cab need to be swapped for the Auto 4x4 version. If you ran the electric on, all you would have needed was a few switches to activate the controls, retainning your original console.


I have thought about swapping mine out, so I can retain both cup holders, but I'd have to relocate my fuel tank, because of the actuator motor on those T-cases would interfere with the back crossmember, not a problem if you aren't running dual cases.

Last edited by BruceTS; 05-11-2007 at 05:55 AM.
Old 05-11-2007, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
Up through the transmission tunnel, currently you have no shifter poking out, so with the T-Case pictured it has to come through somewhere. Which means the center console inside the cab need to be swapped for the Auto 4x4 version. If you ran the electric on, all you would have needed was a few switches to activate the controls, retainning your original console.


I have thought about swapping mine out, so I can retain both cup holders, but I'd have to relocate my fuel tank, because of the actuator motor on those T-cases would interfere with the back crossmember, not a problem if you aren't running dual cases.
yeah the plan is to have the same exact piece as what an auto 4x4 has, i will cut out the shifter plate and put in a new shifter console piece that has two holes, one for the pistol grip auto shifter and the hole for the xfer shifter.

for a second you got me scared thinkin i was gonna have to cut some crap on the frame or something lol.
Old 05-11-2007, 08:15 AM
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starting to get confused by everybody, not a bad thing just i thought I had everything layed out on what I needed.

I may return this case and simply just buy the Inchworm stuff so I dont have to mess with the mounting of a new 4x4 tranny.

but I may contact Jim at inchworm to see if he could make me a custom prerunner adapter to work with the case I have now.

update: returning my stock 4runner case, going to be getting the inchworm adapter with 4:1 crawler gears in the lefty, wont be 4.7 to 1 but its enough for me and ill be doing quite well with em.

Last edited by neliconcept; 05-11-2007 at 08:45 AM.
Old 05-12-2007, 09:18 AM
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here are the pictures of my driveshaft, since i have an 01 it may be different then previous runners, that i do not know


the rear to the diff.


thats the tail housing mount and driveshaft connected to tail housing


tail housing mount, sorry for the funky angle, was on my back taking this


picture of the mounting to the tail housing from above crossmember.


tail housing and driveshaft connecting.


full one peice shaft unlike the tacomas with the 2 peice shafts.
Old 05-12-2007, 09:19 AM
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I thought i would add these pics up as well,

This is SAR_Squids conversion over on TTORA. He has a 2000 prerunner he did this too.
saved these images so i wouldnt use his bandwidth









also i noticed that this guy was able to retain the stock trim area and he did a twin stick config. I guess ill have to buy a pistol grip shifter and the plate behind that with the P N D R 2 and L plate for that pistol grip. and a tcase shifter, couldnt find the search function to find these on car-part.com

here is his setup for that.

Old 05-12-2007, 11:17 AM
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I hope you understand, with that T-case set-up you lose the ability to shift on the fly. but if you planning on a manual hub swap then it'll be no probem, since you'll have to stop anyways to lock them in....
Old 05-12-2007, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
I hope you understand, with that T-case set-up you lose the ability to shift on the fly. but if you planning on a manual hub swap then it'll be no probem, since you'll have to stop anyways to lock them in....
yup, going to do the manual front end, I know when I head out to Pismo in October I'll prob just leave it in 2wd if I have it done by then (which I should)

more updates to come.
Old 05-21-2007, 01:32 PM
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EVERYTHING IS ORDERED FROM INCHWORM

prerunner adapters
coupler
4.7:1 case with twin sticks, cryoed output shaft and electronic speedo.

next on list:
Budbuilt xfer case xmember with skid.
4wd shaft shortened to lenght

run that setup for a while until i get the front end up and running with lengthened front shaft.
Old 06-11-2007, 02:49 PM
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I've been talking to the guys at the south east 4runner jambo and we agreed that SAS is too much time and effort and its not going to do me any justice anyways for my wheeling style or what i may do with my truck.

now heres the good stuff

LOOKY LOOKY LOOKY LOOKY LOOKY LOOKY LOOKY LOOKY







they mounted the casting coupler to the case already for me, i test fitted the adapter to the casting coupler and all is well.

those twinsticks are sexy as hell.

im working on this guy on TTORA to sell me his manual hubs and cv shafts so I can go ahead and install those, workin on Brett for a front diff with 4.88s and arb air locker. then i need shafts and my crossmember and im ready to install.
Old 06-12-2007, 10:39 AM
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Looking really good man. Those are some blinging parts.
Old 06-12-2007, 12:05 PM
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another thing i bought and is coming in



thats one side and the other as well, things that arent coming are the breaks, spindles and upper a arms,

what im getting is the aisin hubs and cv axles.

im running into a junkyard tomorrow to pick up my rear driveshaft, then to spartanburg to pick up my front.

Last edited by neliconcept; 06-12-2007 at 12:17 PM.
Old 06-15-2007, 01:23 PM
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think i have some goodnews about some measurements

ok here is my driveshaft from flange to slipyoke = 57"
tailhousing is 10" which would make 67" from tranny to rear third.

from the part where the tailhousing bolts off to the gastank is 29"

my entire case and adapter setup is 21"

67" - 21" is 46" right? well i was told

Length of my 01 rear shaft is 45.5" flange to flange, that's with an auto tranny.
will this 01 shaft work or no?

i did measure from adapter to rear flange of the transfer case to where the driveshaft bolts up.

will i need to extend this shaft, or go with a 2000 shaft instead.

if anyone else has measurements of theirs, let me know


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