akarocket

Guess first title wasn't descriptive enough.

I have had fender bushwacker flares on my truck for over 7 years. Since the truck is seeing more trail time than on the street I have decided to remove them and Linex the bottom half. Well I removed them and found rust in front of the wheel well on the rear quarters. I have already removed the offending sheetmetal, but am trying to figure out the best option to fix it.

I know that welding in sheetmetal is the best option. I don't have access right now to a welder. Anybody done any alternitives? I figure if I do Linex the bottom the body work does not have to be perfect. I could put the flares back on until I can get a welder(would not cover the hole on left side). I also thought about chopping some more sheetmetal off! Any ideas?

Goes farther forward on left side


Right side is not as bad.

pepsibluefloat

3M makes these plastic disc things that fit onto a die-grinder...they are awesome for removing rust. After you get the rust off i dont know...rhino-lining it might look cool...

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Por-15

Godzilla

fiberglass that..helped my buddy reconstruct worse than that..easy fix.

CJM

2 choices:
1. Grind off all rust, cover with por 15 rust converter till you can weld up a fix.
2. Remove rust, por 15-use fiberglass to build it back up and bondo to repair and make like new.

akarocket

Is the hole too large for kittyhair?

jonbob

You could also look at Eastwood's rust encapsulator (I prefer it over POR 15).

DudeBud

i know you don't have a welder but do it right and weld some metal in there then come from the back and undercoat it.

bruzer1123

another option that might work....and is cheap...is to use the liquid nails expanding foam to fill the hole, then bondo/fiberglass over it. I did this to fix a hole or two in my truck. Granted, I would have preferred to weld in new metal, but at the time I did not have the option.

GodwinAustin

clean, prime, and POR 15

I am pretty sure you dont want to sand down the surface before applying the por 15 - it sticks better to a grainy surface - but if you used rough enough grit sandpaper that may work too - I just painted right over existing rust after priming it.

akarocket

I think I'm going to try this stuff. I might cut some mat and lay in there first, then put the kittyhair on top. I will finish off with some bondo and Linex the top.

ewong

kitty hair is the temp solution

www.toyotafiberglass.com is the permanent solution.... $180 per side.

There are patch panels to spot weld in I have a set - didnt use em as it looked like more trouble than it was worth - used kitty hair instead

Vagrant No2

This was my rust :http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/at...9&d=1150570462

slacker

iTrader: (1)

if you were to remove the panel ... and be able to look at it .. you would see a whole lot more rust then that .

I dont agree with "DUDEBUD" to weld in new pieces ... its really only a bandade , and welding will actually promote rust ... unless you can get in there and treat the back side .

I have seen and used *3M epoxy ... and in my opinion ..better then welding in these circomestances .

you can make a "patch panel" to fit .. and "glue" it in with the *3M .. you can see how its done on a past episode of TRUCKS on Spike TV .


Personally ...

If you have a "bit of rust" you have more .... and I would suggest replacing ..



check these puppies out ..

be the first on your block with these ....

DudeBud

like i said come back behind it with some undercoatand seal it. its not a band aid if done right.

akarocket

I am removing the flares because I have already slid into trees twice going across side hills. I would think its a little much to replace an entire quarter because of a 3" x 4" patch. I have already cut the rusty sheetmetal out of the quarter. The hole was not created by the rust.

Slacker, those new panels do look really nice, but I would hate to slide into another tree and crack one of those. I am going to remove the inner trim panels and spray rust convertor on the inside of the quarter panels. I can not see any visible rust in there. The truck now sits in the garage over half the year and has no rust on the undercarriage. I want to keep it that way as it seems to be getting harder to find them with no rust.

Those panels could be an option in the future. Its nice to see that you are providing a way to save these old trucks. I hope mine never gets to that stage, but we all know rust never sleeps.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

thanks ...

I know , for your project , these panels are a little overkill ... but I thought I would post em' up anyways ..

dudebud ... I know welding patch panels ..... as well ,can be a good fix .. and maybe I missed the part about

"sealing the repair"

but I guess that was exactly what I was talking about ... Professionals like you know this stuff , but the "weekender" dosent ... I just wanted to point it out . as akarocket says ... "rust never sleeps."

akarocket

I finally got aroung to getting this fixed. I used fiberglass to do the repairs. I could have spent some more time cleaning it up, but I thought it turned out pretty good. I ended up cutting 2 1/2" inches out of the fenders for some more clearance. Looks like I could fit 39.5's now

http://www.linexpics.com/project_view.php?ID=349

Turd Ferguson

Pics look great, bro! What did the Line-X set you back? That could be the repair I need to do on my Toyota Cancer!!!

Godzilla

Looks good, fibreglass can do wonders..We did my buddys 92 runner and with patience and lots of sanding, and a quick fill with bondo to smooth it out, its impossible to differentiate from normal.