delboy

I really want some sliders my my 1990 Surf, but no one in Ireland does them. They would also cost a fortune to post from US. My question is, does anyone out there have dimensions for weld-on or bolt-on sliders for a 2nd gen. It would be really helpful. The main dimensions i need are the spacing and length of the stanoff bars from the frame of the truck, as on a 2nd gen the frame turns in near the front. If anyone can help, i'd buy them a pint next time they're in Ireland.

delboy

I'll take that as a no, then!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You will want the frame supports to be from the frame where it is square to the slider main rail and a length from the frame to where the main rail is beneath the pinch weld. I have some pics and some CAD files for my 3rd gen on my website that might give you some ideas. I hope this helps!

CLICKY

delboy

Cheers Brian!
Quite helpful!

Waterboy

I saw your post the other day and have been trying to find what the wheel base difference is between an xtra cab and a 4 runner because I have a set of sliders being mailed to me and I was going to get some dimensions for you if they were close. I think they are pretty close but I haven't found any numbers yet.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

All you need is somebody who does custom fab work, welds, and you can probably show them some pics, tell them what you want and they'll figure it out. That's what the guy who fabbed mine did.

Where's my pint?

Scarbro22

This is thread i am using to make mine along with these pm's from loosehead:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=home+grown


I think I have all of those measurements still in my head...
The leg lentgh, ie the length from the frame to the inner rail was around 7-7.5 inches. Keep in mind that this length may be different for you , since you have a '94. It was pretty easy to measure, I wanted the main rail to be directly under the pinch weld, so I just measured from there to the frame, then subtracted 1/4" for the thickness of my mounting plates, and then subtracted half of the diameter fo the main rail, in my case, one inch.

The length of the short pieces of tubing between the two rails ended up being around 2.75 inches. I was shooting for the 3", but thats where it ended up after I bent the tubes and cut the ends to fit on the main rail.

Also, below is an email I sent to someone else about the sliders, its long, but has most of my methodolgy in it:

Anyway, I just wanted to provide you with a few
details about the sliders that I built for Jim and
myself. THerwere a few differences in the two pairs,
but not anything earth shattering. I didn't draw up
anything, just took lots of measurements and started
cutting pieces. This was, of course, after many hours
of looking at pictures of other designs and seeing
first hand what a good friend of mine here in town put
his sliders through, and how they held up.

So, what I decided is that I wanted my side rail flat,
and Jim wanted his turned up some. We both agreed
that the combo of square main rail and round outer
rail was ideal. We used 2" by 3/16th square and 1
3/4" dom 11 guage (1/8th) round. Mine were 64" in
length and Jim's were 69" I have the SR5 flares on my
'98, which stick down below the body a little, so mine
were shorter. Jim has the Limited style flares on
his, which are flush with the bottom of the rocker, so
he could afford more length. I cut the ends of the
square tube at a 30-degree angle so they would have a
nice beveled look, then just capped it with a piece of
plate, I think I used 1/8", but you could use what
ever was handy...So, the measurements above are
longpoint to longpoint, and built with the long side
up.

For the side rails, I used the cheapo Harbor Freight
pipe bender to put a curve in each end of the side
rail and left the "tails" beyond the curve long.
Then, I just laid this piece on top of the square rail
and drew a ine for my miter cut. I ended up with
about 2 3/4" between the two rails. Then I saddle cut
some short round pieces to put between the two rails.
Two on each side, so when welded up, the two rails are
welded together in 4 places. Jim's were a little more
difficult, because of the raise he wanted, so it ends
up being a compound miter, which we had to try and
hold all of the pieces up to the truck and mark so
they came out 'just right'...

Once I had these welded up, I had to figure out how
long the legs needed to be. Easy enough, I put the
slider on jack standsupt to the truck in the desired
location and just measured how far to the frame. This
ended up being about 7 inches. This puts the square
tube just about center underneath the pinch weld in
the body, which is what I wanted...The legs may
actually be a hair shorter than that...I had to allow
for the 1/4" thick angle iron brackets going on the
frame first. I can check that exact dimension for you
later, or you could check it youself, because it seems
like Jim's was slightly different, although that may
have been because he had his further out to accomodate
the raise in the outer tube. I really think getting
the main tube underneath the pinch weld, or really
really clolse to it is a good idea, because if the
sliders do flex, they would bear weight on it and not
on weaker parts of the rocker.

Slider details continued...

I used 3" by 5" by 1/4" thick angle for the brackets
that go to the frame. The pieces I used were about
5.5" long, and placed 3 on each side (3 legs per side
as well). We picked places along the frame rail where
it would not interfere with anything else. Theres a
cross member in the center, and the gas tank skid
mounts on the drivers side. I actually incorporated
one of these bolts into the slider mounting bracket,
just because it was one less hole to drill. Mine also
has a plastic splash guard covering the fuel filter on
the drivers side that Jim's did not, so look out for
that, too. Also, as you move up the frame to the
front of the truck, the rails start to bend inward
right behind the front tire, so we moved our front
mounting bracket back far enough so that all three
legs would be the same length and avoid this part of
the frame.

It actually worked out perfect to have the legs welded
flush with the bottom of the piece of angle so that
the slider stayed an even amount below the pinch weld.
For me, this was about 3/4". Although if you
have a body lift, this will be different. You may
want to use even bigger angle iron for the mounting
brackets, maybe 3" by 6" or 4" by 6", so that when you
place the tube leg higher up, it spreads the load even
more...just a thought.

I tested mine after I got them on by lifting the truck
with a high lift jack from various points along the
slider, and they didn't deflect hardly at all, maybe
1/32" when the truck was lifted. They held up great
to some real-world testing on the rocks during the
Colorado 4Runner Jam last month, other than scraping
off a little paint.

Well, this is getting rather long, so I think I'll
sign off and let you try to absorb all of these
ramblings. I hope its what you needed, also, I'd be
happy to take some more pictures for you if the ones
that were posted in my thread aren't enough. Let me
know what else you have Q's about and I'll be glad to
answer them, or at least try. Let me know...

Jayson
aka loosehead



alot to go through but some great stuff!!!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You sent it to someboyd huh?



What Jayson said...

delboy

Cheers, thanks for all the info.
Brian, got you that pint, but couldnt post it, tasted real good though!