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1WiCkEd_RuNNer's rig

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Old 05-15-2005, 10:51 PM
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Here is the clockable gear reduction starter markus got off EBAY.



As you can see the backing plate doesn't fit this type of starter too well.



Now here is the only issue I have ran across running the AA adapter bellhousing and a mini starter. Notice the clearance of the starter bolt to the clutch slave. I ended up grinding a litle bit of the alumimum black on the starter and shiming the clutch slave 1/4" to get that amount of clearance.



Old 05-15-2005, 10:57 PM
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Here is the positve battery cable setup. I am a big fan of a centralized junction and not having all the damn wires going to the battery.



Here are the grounds. I always setup my grounds to where there is one from the battery to the body, one from the body to the frame and then one from the frame to the motor. Doing it this way you won't have any problems with voltage drop due to a ground.



Old 05-15-2005, 11:20 PM
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looks good
Old 05-16-2005, 05:50 AM
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What'd you use to isolate the positive battery junction from the frame? Is that a molded poly tie-off?
Old 05-16-2005, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by midiwall
What'd you use to isolate the positive battery junction from the frame? Is that a molded poly tie-off?
Its something that took me a bit of digging to find. Its a modified junction post with a molded base...
Old 05-16-2005, 09:35 PM
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I got the accel pedal all done up. One thing I have found if you don't have a cable get one out of an 89-94 s-10 blazer/pickup and not one from a full size chev pickup. The distance from the firewall to the point that clips onto the pedal is greater on the full size pickups and more modification is needed.

As you can see all that was needed was bending the pedal near the top(and a little just above the plastic pedal to bring the pedal up a little from the floor) and popping the hole to 3/8".



Old 05-16-2005, 09:58 PM
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So the time has come, all my ducks are in a row(except the midgets, ˟˟˟˟in midgets ) to fire this thing off. So I made sure the battery was fully charged and I cranked it over. But something was odd. The motor turned over too easily and sounded like there was no compression in it. I popped the #1 plug out and installed my compression guage. Yup zero compression. I popped the distributor cap off and made sure the rotor was turning (make sure the camshaft was turning) and yup that looked good. So I pulled the passenger valve cover off and cranked the motor over to #1 TDC. I blew some air into the chamber and air comes out the exhaust. I backed the adjuster nut on the rocker off and the valve closed and the same thing was happening on the intake valve. So I figure the valves were not adjusted correctly (I called markus and after some discussion he was pretty certain he followed the proper procedure). So I adjusted # intake/exhaust correctly and cranked the motor over and it had compression. But both rockers turned sideways about 1/2". So now I am really scratching my head. I popped both rockers off and pulled the pushrods. WOW, both are bent so now I am totaly confused as what is happening. Luckily there were 2 more pushrods in the back of the rig and I grab them. I check as best as possable for the camshaft timing to be correct and all looks to be good (if it was off it would only be a couple degrees which would not be enough to cause this). So I pop the new pushrods in and double check the adjustment of #1. Crank it over and WTF, it did it again. So I have my neighbor come over to crank it over so I can watch the rockers. Now one thing I did notice before I adjusted anything was the adjusting nuts not fully into the threads of the studs but didn't think anything of it. So apon close inspection I found the rockers going at more of an angle than they can take(there is a releive cut in the base of the rocker to clear the stud as it pivats). So now I am finding myself even more confused and the midgets were now throwing tools at me, so I shot them and burried them in the back yard . So I pulled the pushrods out and measure them. They measured out at 7.8". So the next day at work I had my parts guy look the part # up but the OEM books don't show any specs on the length of the pushrod and NONE of the gm manuals show the correct OEM length. So I stop off at napa and have them look up the pushrods and they show a length of 7.21" which sounds about right as to where the rockers sat with the 7.8" pushrods. So I get all new pushrods this morning, pop them in and correctly adjust them. Crank the motor over and now it sounds NICE! Hook the coil back up and BANG, the damn thing fires right off.

Here is the bent pushrod next to the correct length one



So I run the motor hot and adjust the timing to spec (zero degrees) and I notice the check engine light on---crap now what So I hook my scanner up.



Damn tps code. So I check the system out real quick and damn a bad TPS. So tommorow I will grab a new one from work and get that done. I ran the engine hot(open headers a buzzin away) and made sure everything else works, and it all works perfectly.
Old 05-16-2005, 10:01 PM
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So with the motor basicaly done I figured I would roll the front diff out to get that done up with some goodies (hp60)



Old 05-16-2005, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by crash
Originally Posted by midiwall
What'd you use to isolate the positive battery junction from the frame? Is that a molded poly tie-off?
Its something that took me a bit of digging to find. Its a modified junction post with a molded base...
nice find!
Old 05-17-2005, 08:34 PM
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Midgets RIP Nice work Crash!
Old 05-19-2005, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DarylD
Midgets RIP Nice work Crash!
Thanks daryl I am pretty happy with how its turned out...
Old 05-19-2005, 09:14 PM
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Ok, I got new TPS sensor and installed it. Fires off with no more codes.

So, this is all done on my end (not much left to make it totaly done)



Got the front diff done and tossed back under the rig.



So ends this saga. Hopefully markus can get the tidbits done and be out on the trail pretty soon...
Old 05-19-2005, 09:46 PM
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Kewl, soon Markus will be able to wheel with me. O wait, I'm down again
Old 05-19-2005, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by upndair
Kewl, soon Markus will be able to wheel with me. O wait, I'm down again
Run it till it blows dale That way we know what is broken

Did you check the shifter-body clearance yet?

Also your new lense shows being delivered today or tommorow(looks like they shipped it later than expected)
Old 05-19-2005, 10:06 PM
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man that motor sits down far. do you think that the pan will get mashed?
Old 05-22-2005, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DudeBud
man that motor sits down far. do you think that the pan will get mashed?
Not at all. Its set identical to mine and my rig is way lower than markus's. It should be just perfect. I like to keepm the weight down low in the frame rails to get the COG down-makes for a very stable rig.
Old 05-22-2005, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by crash

Here is the bent pushrod next to the correct length one

SBC Pushrods huh?
Old 05-23-2005, 09:21 PM
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Pushrod looks a little pissed..... don't it
Old 06-08-2005, 04:48 PM
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Well markus picked his rig up and hopefully he is happy with the outcome of it all. Now we just all need to keep on him to get it wheelable
Old 06-11-2005, 07:37 AM
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Getting it ready wont be a problem, but the money will be. I am getting married 1 Oct and I have to pay for the wedding, so the funds are really really tight. I will get the brake lines done and the other stuff. But for the exhaust and tires, that will have to wait.


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