The most complete 3rd Gen 4Runner lift kit ever offered: Featuring Tundra TRD coils - Page 3

sschaefer3 · 05-17-2006, 11:08 PM

I put the kits together when they are ordered, the Toyota parts are here the next day and then I build all the other items and dispatch Richard Stubbs to make and send you a track bar.

Also: Breaking News, we are on the verge of a NON-CORE trac bar completely built from scratch that will sell for the same $150.00 that the current stock end link bar sells for. If you have a core to send back, that is fine, if you paid a core charge you will get it back and yes you do need to send your stock bar back as those will be used in emergencies if a vendor can not supply us in a timely manner.

Also an FJ Cruiser trac bar is on the way and well as a full FJ Cruiser lift. Man I loved driving that thing last weekend on the trails at Tellico and will hook up with the FJ Trail Team here in Arizona next month.

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bamachem · 05-18-2006, 05:05 AM

nice.

AZ4ME · 05-18-2006, 09:28 AM

What is the story with the FJ Trail team in AZ. I didn't see an AZ stop on the list.

sschaefer3 · 05-18-2006, 09:33 AM

I guess the info is here:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92458

I'm gonna e-mail them and say from my FJ Trail Team experience last weekend in Tellico, Crown King would be one of the worst trails to do this on.

I think DeSoto would be alot better and in the same area.

AZ4ME · 05-18-2006, 10:41 AM

Ya, from what I've heard recently, the Crown King trail has been pussified quite a bit. Desoto is always a fun trail with a little rocky creek action. Sounds good.

***midiwall*** · 05-24-2006, 03:00 PM

Steve;

I'm "thinking" about System 2 or 2.5 (probably 2) and have 2 questions...

I'm currently running ATS upper arms in front. How will this affect the kit (your kit) in terms of off-road performance (stability, droop, handling, clearance, anything...)?
Can you compare/contrast how this setup is "better" than the old SAW/OME setups, _without_ saying "it's just better". I'm looking for a more technical understanding of this setup and why I'd spend $1k to pull out what I have.

Thanks man.

sschaefer3 · 05-25-2006, 06:24 AM

The ATS arms won't matter one way or another. If you have them or don't have them it does not really matter.

What is it that you don't like about what you have? If I know that, then I could say if this would be better.

***midiwall*** · 05-25-2006, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sschaefer3

The ATS arms won't matter one way or another. If you have them or don't have them it does not really matter.

cool.

Quote:

What is it that you don't like about what you have? If I know that, then I could say if this would be better.

Good question, and honestly, _I_ think I'm "fine" with what I have, but I'm VERY much still learning in all this, and will be for a while.

So, the process running through my head is more of "Years ago, Steve (and others) touted the joys of SAW/OME. I said 'okay', and that's what I did. Today, Steve (and others) are saying something else, and I'm curious what I would gain if I switched".

Does that make sense? Basically, for me it's a game of "follow the leader" when it comes to suspension. I don't know what could be around the corner.

It's interesting that you asked "what don't you like about what you have" 'cause I once started spouting about wanting to SA my rig, and a local Mentor told me that I shouldn't think about doing it until I can describe what I CAN'T do IFS. I can answer that now, but I dunno that I want to SAS. hmmm... or maybe I do.

Your question brings up the same feelings for me... I can certainly point to a couple of obstacles around here that I can't get through, but I don't know that swapping in a different spring/shock setup will help. I DO know that swapping in a SA would help.

Crap... maybe I take the money, stuff it in a mason jar, and save for a SAS.

argh. oh gawd. argh.

...it'd be cool though.

So... how's THAT for open babbling on a Thursday morning pre-caffeine?

thanks Steve

sschaefer3 · 05-25-2006, 06:58 AM

I don't want to sell anyone something they don't need. Maybe you just need the DOM Rubicon Express Super Flex Joint links and the fixes to run the FZJ-80 shocks?

That is if you are happy with the height/lift your current rear coils give you.

"MY" Personal issues with the Sway-A-Way's was:

1. Coils were a smaller ID/OD than stock resulting in them having to use a stiffer spring rate. Resulting in a front end shock/coil combo that was stiffer than I cared for. Keep in mind I never used them as they were intended, high speed sand in Southern California.

2. The test of time. Parts would rip, tear or wear quickly and it was difficult to get replacement parts from Ryan and his voice mail. Also the fact you have to re-build them was sort of a "turn-off".

3. Aluminum corrodes, not the best choice for the rust or snow belt. I don't think snow testing was on the QA list for a high speed sand product.

4. They are the most expensive they have to be the best. The "best" hard core 3rd Gen wheelers all have them, If I want to be the best, I have to buy the most expensive stuff. Wrong - As I started traveling to these events and actually seeing these people wheel in person, it became pretty clear that just because you can type an entire page of words on something, doesn’t mean much.

5. Straight Axle Conversion: Extremely easy and cheap on 1986-1995, Extremely expensive and complex on 1996-2000, after that it gets even more complex. A Dana 44 with quality high straight U-Joints and Aftermarket Cro-Mo axles would be the Bee's Knees. Why go to all the trouble of putting a Dana 44 under a truck and then running 20 year old unhardened factory Dana axles. They did not harden them back then because they did not need to as the tire sizes 20 years ago where considerably smaller. Bottom line SA conversions are BIG MONEY. BIG BIG MONEY for a truck like yours. It can be done cheap, but then you will have things that don't work or don't work the same or not work at all. That's not the way I do things.

Go for the SA if you can justify the cost, if not think about what you don't like with what you have now.

***midiwall*** · 05-25-2006, 11:07 AM

{think} {think} {think}

Okay... I've thought myself out of the SAS, but it'll cross my mind again.

I think I've also thought myself out of ripping out what I have.

If I get into a zone where I'm out at least every-other weekend, I'll revisit the undercarriage, but it's fine as it is. I'm just not abusing what I have and I'm okay with having to take the bypasses once-in-a-while.

Thanks Steve.

sschaefer3 · 05-25-2006, 06:18 PM

It's 1" to 1'5" higher in the rear. It you want to see what your truck would look like use a floor jack and jack the rear up 1" to 1.5". I don't have any driveway pics, but I do have lots of trail shots.

sschaefer3 · 05-25-2006, 08:58 PM

No. They are 315/75/16.

**4x4Fink** · 05-26-2006, 01:35 AM

Awesome work Steve! Glad to see you're making it easier for people to get the right stuff the first time!

This is the ONLY way I would go about lifting a 3rd gen, it is the most solid, stable and capable configuration.

Fink

bamachem · 05-26-2006, 04:34 AM

now he just needs to offer a tundra big brake kit to go with it!

sschaefer3 · 05-26-2006, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spaugh

so running 315's with this lift kit is no problem? Rubbing etc is not an issue? I realize regearing might be necessary, but physically, the 35 inch tires will be ok? That would be really nice although I wonder if this is pushing the limits of the IFS??? anyhow, thanks for providing info in such a timely manner, I plan to build up the runner this summer for use when the temps cool down in fall.

315's fit, shade tree mechanic triming required. Nothing hard to do. You have to run 3.5" back spaced rims.

You will have to re-gear.

Pushing the limits of IFS? Probably not as 95% of all breakage is due to the cage getting ripped out from too much droop. That is breakage from stupidity, not a weak drivetrain. Cryo Treat your CV shafts.

This is a nice, simple, solid complete lift it. If you really want to open it up, use the Rubicon Express Joint Links.

sschaefer3 · 05-27-2006, 07:23 AM

All orders placed after 6-1-2006 will include the Tokico Trek > Master R/T front shock, the Tokico Tacoma Double Cab TRD Blue shock will no longer be used.

This is purely a "cost" issue, If I can get the same or equivalent shock that is made by the exact same company aftermarket, that is what we are going to do. As you cut out the TRD/Toyota markup.

Instead of a price increase, as these Toyota parts do continually go up in cost over time, I have switched to the aftermarket Tokico Trek > Master R/T shock. Not the one sold through TRD & Toyota. I have a set of each here and there will be no issues. Any order placed before 6-1-2006 will still include the Blue TRD shocks.

emptypockets · 06-03-2006, 06:13 PM

I'm kind of a noob to this kind of a lift idea. Two questions. First regarding the drive shaft. With the LC coils, I'll need to relocate the drive shaft under the tank instead of through it? Is this a major operation?

Second, I've recently purchased new Rancho shocks all around. Extended, they're about 22". Will I need new longer shocks? I've read that if you use shocks similar to what I have, there's no need for longer brake lines because the shocks will limit travel. Is that true?

Thanks!

sschaefer3 · 06-03-2006, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptypockets

I'm kind of a noob to this kind of a lift idea. Two questions. First regarding the drive shaft. With the LC coils, I'll need to relocate the drive shaft under the tank instead of through it? Is this a major operation?

Second, I've recently purchased new Rancho shocks all around. Extended, they're about 22". Will I need new longer shocks? I've read that if you use shocks similar to what I have, there's no need for longer brake lines because the shocks will limit travel. Is that true?

Thanks!

Do you have a 2WD or a 4WD?

bamachem · 06-04-2006, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptypockets

I'm kind of a noob to this kind of a lift idea. Two questions. First regarding the drive shaft. With the LC coils, I'll need to relocate the drive shaft under the tank instead of through it? Is this a major operation?...

Ok, you REALLY need to get under your runner and just look around and learn what is what. relocating drive shaft under a tank instead of THRU it??? :pat:

at least you found the right forum to learn from...

sschaefer3 · 06-04-2006, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sschaefer3

All orders placed after 6-1-2006 will include the Tokico Trek > Master R/T front shock, the Tokico Tacoma Double Cab TRD Blue shock will no longer be used.

This is purely a "cost" issue, If I can get the same or equivalent shock that is made by the exact same company aftermarket, that is what we are going to do. As you cut out the TRD/Toyota markup.

Instead of a price increase, as these Toyota parts do continually go up in cost over time, I have switched to the aftermarket Tokico Trek > Master R/T shock. Not the one sold through TRD & Toyota. I have a set of each here and there will be no issues. Any order placed before 6-1-2006 will still include the Blue TRD shocks.

Well after spending a week testing and measuring the following:

1. Tokico TRD Blue
2. Tokico Trek Master Green
3. Bilstein TRD Yellow (Toyota Stock, not aftermarket)
4. Old Man Emu N91S

Here is the deal:

1. Old Man Emu is the longest. Too Long. It's also even in the Heavy Duty version, absurdly soft.

2. TRD Tokico Blue shocks ARE without a doubt quite different. They are the longest of the stock shocks and have very clear dual dampening as well as full extension dampeners. Although they look the same, they certainly are not.

3. The Green Trek Master is a plain jane no thrills shock and it appears to be basically the same in length and valving as the TRD Tacoma (Stock) Bilstein.

So I am going to bring the TRD Blue shocks back to the kits. The standard shock is still going to be the Tokico Green Trek Master, but if you want to pay more and upgrade to the dual valved TRD Blue Tokico, you can.

Basically it's a normal shock for the first 1/2 of the way down and then the last 1/2 is considerably stiffer, it also has full extension dampening or some sort of bump stop in it as it is not fully extended until a coil is installed on it.

It's clear to me now why it is a more expensive shock.

If you ordered before June 1 you have the blue shocks by default, don't worry.

emptypockets · 06-05-2006, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptypockets

I'm kind of a noob to this kind of a lift idea. Two questions. First regarding the drive shaft. With the LC coils, I'll need to relocate the drive shaft under the tank instead of through it? Is this a major operation?

Second, I've recently purchased new Rancho shocks all around. Extended, they're about 22". Will I need new longer shocks? I've read that if you use shocks similar to what I have, there's no need for longer brake lines because the shocks will limit travel. Is that true?

Thanks!

Ok, I realize a drive shaft doesn't go thru the gas tank...but someone else in a previous post maybe in another thread said you needed to relocate the drive shaft?

I did do the Daystar spacer lift myself after all!

BTW...Mine is a 4wd. Thanks for the help.

dragr1 · 06-05-2006, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptypockets

Ok, I realize a drive shaft doesn't go thru the gas tank...but someone else in a previous post maybe in another thread said you needed to relocate the drive shaft?

I did do the Daystar spacer lift myself after all!

BTW...Mine is a 4wd. Thanks for the help.

No relocating the driveshaft, just that with the lift the driveshaft may hit the gas tank skid under full flex, so some pounding of the gas tank skid may or may not be necessary.

sschaefer3 · 06-08-2006, 08:01 AM

Updated first post to reflect what is on my site.

RTdawgs · 06-08-2006, 08:36 AM

Whats the best lift for 33s? I really wanted a 4-5" lift, do you have those?

sschaefer3 · 06-08-2006, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RTdawgs

Whats the best lift for 33s? I really wanted a 4-5" lift, do you have those?

Yes that would require a Dana 44 retro-fit. Minor welding and some very minor cutting.

05-18-2006, 09:28 AM	#53 (permalink)
AZ4ME Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: PHX Posts: 482	What is the story with the FJ Trail team in AZ. I didn't see an AZ stop on the list. __________________ -Brian '88 4Runner '00 4Runner

05-18-2006, 09:33 AM	#54 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	I guess the info is here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92458 I'm gonna e-mail them and say from my FJ Trail Team experience last weekend in Tellico, Crown King would be one of the worst trails to do this on. I think DeSoto would be alot better and in the same area. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

05-18-2006, 10:41 AM	#55 (permalink)
AZ4ME Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: PHX Posts: 482	Ya, from what I've heard recently, the Crown King trail has been pussified quite a bit. Desoto is always a fun trail with a little rocky creek action. Sounds good. __________________ -Brian '88 4Runner '00 4Runner

05-24-2006, 03:00 PM	#56 (permalink)
*midiwall* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Seattleish, WA Posts: 9,078	Steve; I'm "thinking" about System 2 or 2.5 (probably 2) and have 2 questions... I'm currently running ATS upper arms in front. How will this affect the kit (your kit) in terms of off-road performance (stability, droop, handling, clearance, anything...)? Can you compare/contrast how this setup is "better" than the old SAW/OME setups, _without_ saying "it's just better". I'm looking for a more technical understanding of this setup and why I'd spend $1k to pull out what I have. Thanks man. __________________ ~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams Last edited by midiwall; 05-24-2006 at 03:56 PM.

05-25-2006, 06:24 AM	#57 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	The ATS arms won't matter one way or another. If you have them or don't have them it does not really matter. What is it that you don't like about what you have? If I know that, then I could say if this would be better. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

05-18-2006, 05:05 AM	#52 (permalink)
bamachem Banned Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 0	nice.

05-25-2006, 06:58 AM	#59 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	I don't want to sell anyone something they don't need. Maybe you just need the DOM Rubicon Express Super Flex Joint links and the fixes to run the FZJ-80 shocks? That is if you are happy with the height/lift your current rear coils give you. "MY" Personal issues with the Sway-A-Way's was: 1. Coils were a smaller ID/OD than stock resulting in them having to use a stiffer spring rate. Resulting in a front end shock/coil combo that was stiffer than I cared for. Keep in mind I never used them as they were intended, high speed sand in Southern California. 2. The test of time. Parts would rip, tear or wear quickly and it was difficult to get replacement parts from Ryan and his voice mail. Also the fact you have to re-build them was sort of a "turn-off". 3. Aluminum corrodes, not the best choice for the rust or snow belt. I don't think snow testing was on the QA list for a high speed sand product. 4. They are the most expensive they have to be the best. The "best" hard core 3rd Gen wheelers all have them, If I want to be the best, I have to buy the most expensive stuff. Wrong - As I started traveling to these events and actually seeing these people wheel in person, it became pretty clear that just because you can type an entire page of words on something, doesn’t mean much. 5. Straight Axle Conversion: Extremely easy and cheap on 1986-1995, Extremely expensive and complex on 1996-2000, after that it gets even more complex. A Dana 44 with quality high straight U-Joints and Aftermarket Cro-Mo axles would be the Bee's Knees. Why go to all the trouble of putting a Dana 44 under a truck and then running 20 year old unhardened factory Dana axles. They did not harden them back then because they did not need to as the tire sizes 20 years ago where considerably smaller. Bottom line SA conversions are BIG MONEY. BIG BIG MONEY for a truck like yours. It can be done cheap, but then you will have things that don't work or don't work the same or not work at all. That's not the way I do things. Go for the SA if you can justify the cost, if not think about what you don't like with what you have now. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

05-25-2006, 11:07 AM	#60 (permalink)
*midiwall* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Seattleish, WA Posts: 9,078	{think} {think} {think} Okay... I've thought myself out of the SAS, but it'll cross my mind again. I think I've also thought myself out of ripping out what I have. If I get into a zone where I'm out at least every-other weekend, I'll revisit the undercarriage, but it's fine as it is. I'm just not abusing what I have and I'm okay with having to take the bypasses once-in-a-while. Thanks Steve. __________________ ~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams

05-25-2006, 06:18 PM	#61 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	It's 1" to 1'5" higher in the rear. It you want to see what your truck would look like use a floor jack and jack the rear up 1" to 1.5". I don't have any driveway pics, but I do have lots of trail shots. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

05-25-2006, 08:58 PM	#62 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	No. They are 315/75/16. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

05-26-2006, 01:35 AM	#63 (permalink)
4x4Fink Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Centerton, AR Posts: 6,174	Awesome work Steve! Glad to see you're making it easier for people to get the right stuff the first time! This is the ONLY way I would go about lifting a 3rd gen, it is the most solid, stable and capable configuration. Fink __________________ 1985 4Runner 22RE 4WD "Ratchet" 2007 Tacoma Double Cab SB 4x4 V6 TRD Sport AR-TTORA "My work number is 9-1-1."

05-26-2006, 04:34 AM	#64 (permalink)
bamachem Banned Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 0	now he just needs to offer a tundra big brake kit to go with it!

05-27-2006, 07:23 AM	#66 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	All orders placed after 6-1-2006 will include the Tokico Trek > Master R/T front shock, the Tokico Tacoma Double Cab TRD Blue shock will no longer be used. This is purely a "cost" issue, If I can get the same or equivalent shock that is made by the exact same company aftermarket, that is what we are going to do. As you cut out the TRD/Toyota markup. Instead of a price increase, as these Toyota parts do continually go up in cost over time, I have switched to the aftermarket Tokico Trek > Master R/T shock. Not the one sold through TRD & Toyota. I have a set of each here and there will be no issues. Any order placed before 6-1-2006 will still include the Blue TRD shocks. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

06-03-2006, 06:13 PM	#67 (permalink)
emptypockets Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Spencer, Iowa Posts: 863	I'm kind of a noob to this kind of a lift idea. Two questions. First regarding the drive shaft. With the LC coils, I'll need to relocate the drive shaft under the tank instead of through it? Is this a major operation? Second, I've recently purchased new Rancho shocks all around. Extended, they're about 22". Will I need new longer shocks? I've read that if you use shocks similar to what I have, there's no need for longer brake lines because the shocks will limit travel. Is that true? Thanks! __________________ Model: '02 4Runner SR5 - White On Natural Oak, Tan Interior Engine/Performance: 3.4L V6, Auto, AndyMod, Jardine Catback Exhaust, S&B Intake Rear Suspension: 3.75" lift with LC coils and Rancho RS5000 shocks Front Suspension: 3" lift with OME 882 springs and OME N91sc shocks, Diff Drop Tires: 285/75 R16 Fierce Attitude M/T's, Pacer 164P Alloy Wheels Misc: Full Time Power Outlet Mod, Extra Power Outlet Mod, GE Nighthawks My Profile: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2915959

06-08-2006, 08:01 AM	#73 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,505	Updated first post to reflect what is on my site. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

06-08-2006, 08:36 AM	#74 (permalink)
RTdawgs Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,069	Whats the best lift for 33s? I really wanted a 4-5" lift, do you have those? __________________ 2008 4Runner Sport 4X4. Mild, not wild. (Sold) 2000 4Runner 305s, Locker, TJM, Warn, Skids, Sliders, SC

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