Alpine114

For all you out there with the superior 3rd gen, lets see what set up you have for your body/susp. lift and are running 285/75/16 or 33'? Also any problems that have occured over a duration of time to your lift,ie breaks/faulty parts/cheaply made, excluding trail damage...

garrett1478

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f79/

98LimitedCustomized

I'm rocking the Tundra coils with topout spacer and OME rear setup made famous by Bamachem. I've got a limited and am running 32's, I think 33's would rip the front part of the flair off. A 1" body lift will happen before I step up to 33's. I don't play in the places most guys on here do. If I were to do it again I'd do Downey in the rear instead of 891's, as they are pretty brutal on the bumps. I'd much rather have one of the popular coilover assemblies in the front but they're spendy. I think in general if you want lift you're gonna sacrafice some ride.

bamachem

http://www.4rnr.net/suspension

jacksonpt

OME HD shocks/coils front and rear, Performance Accessories 2" body lift, 33/12.5-15 Destinantion MTs. No problems with any of it. Had the suspension for about 60k miles, the BL for only about 15k.

Hugo

Running Downey coilovers and rear springs with no body lift to clear 32s.

calg3

Been running Bilsteins for around 60K and added the Performance Products springs soon after that with no problems at all. 32" BFG AT's have close to 50K and am looking at my next set of tires soon, not sure what I am going to get yet.

4RunnerFever

3 inch Revtek with 1 inch 4Crawler body lift. Stock suspension pieces. Works good on road, but I think the 285s would rub off road. No problems though the ride is quite stiff.

MTL_4runner

OME 881 springs front, 890 springs rear and the comfort shocks.
Very plush setup, soaks up all the bumps but a bit of body roll in hard cornering.

Will probably beef up the sway bars soon.

lee

pp lift springs and hd bils. sometime in the next few months, ill be adding some spacers in and going up to 285s

bamachem

don't do spacers. sell the PP/billies and step up to a REAL lift...

tundra trd / downeys with OME shocks and a body lift!

FilthyRich

I thought spacers with progressive springs would be a real harsh ride??

Sell it and redo

Another vote for my sig line

lee

nah, i like my suspension components. i could use a little more height, so ill use spacers and a small BL.

right now my focus is armor.. budbuilt skids, sliders and hopefully an arb. then ill move to height and meats.

bamachem

you like it now. you WON'T like it when you add spacers to it. trust us on that one.

check out SS3's info at http://www.sonoransteel.com and search and you'll see that there's pretty much ONE good IFS lift for 3rd gens... the rest are adequate.

lee

hmmm....

yea maybe i could sell the springs (finding a buyer ill be SO easy), upgrade to ome's.....

we shall see when i have the money and time

bamachem

NO. NOT OME's.

Front: Tundra TRD Spring w/ OME N91s Struts and top plate extended studs and a top plate spacer - about $400 total

Rear: Downey 2.5/3.5 Coils w/ OME N86 Shocks and OME conical bumpstops - about $450 total

4Crawler Body Lift - 1" minimum and I'd suggest 1" or 1.5". - $100 - $150 depending on choices.

Then pound the pinch weld, get new 16x8" wheels (I recommend FJ/FZJ80 or LX450 alloys - about $100-$125 EACH or black steelies for about $50 each) w/ 4.25"-4.5" backspacing and THEN you can run 285's without rubbing.

basically, to do it RIGHT, it will be $1000 for the lift and then another $1000 for the wheels and tires.

you can sell your PP stuff for $400 and maybe $500 and then another $400 for wheels and $400-$500 for used MT/R's. that will leave you with about $600-$800 in out of pocket expenses to go up 1" in tire size...

after that, you'll need to regear to get the MPG's and power back. that's another $500 in parts and $500 in labor. if you're cracking the diffs open, might as well throw some lockers in there, and that will be another $1500 for dual ARB's and a compressor. you'll also need some sliders eventually (another $250), and then you have to have a hi-lift cause your OEM jack becomes useless and then you need a slider adapter (another $100 spent).

then you'll want a winch cause the lockers will get you stuck REALLY bad when you do get stuck. to do that, you need an ARB bull bar. there goes another $700 for the bumper and $600 for the winch. pulling steel cable (in the dark) really sucks, so then you add another $150 for some amsteel and another $250 for good lighting. that's another $1700.

then comes the rear bumper and other stuff...

see how it adds up? i just spent over $6500 (of your money) to go from 265/75's to 285/75's...

lee

ive read that the cornbred spacers, the newer ones, go on top of the pp springs and don't hurt the ride quality. is this the case?

would rubber spacers lessen the harshness of the ride?

sorry im hijacking...

Albuquerque Jim

I have tried a lot of combinations. Here are my impressions.

Rear:
OME 891 Springs and OME N86 Shocks (too stiff on road)

Current Set up: FJ80 Springs and OME N86 Shocks (just right)

Front:
Daystar 2.5" spacers with stock coils and stock shocks (a little stiff, but for the cost it worked well on and off road)
Fox Fabtech Performance Coil overs (very soft, although the schrader valve is in a bad place I broke it off 4 times and the bottom bushings wear out quickly)
OME 882 Springs and Bilstein HD shocks (way too stiff for off road, but handled nicely through the turns)

Current Set up: PP 1" lift springs, Daystar 2.5" spacers and Rough Country shocks (works well with my truck, not too stiff like some who have never tried it believe...trust me, the shocks are the extended length design and they have a lower uniball mount)

I also have a set on Tundra Coils and top out spacers that I am going to try with the Rough Country Shocks when I get a chance to switch them out again.

lee

thats good to hear!

i dont really care much about ride stiffness as long as its bareable, esp on the highway (i drive on the highway to work everyday)...

Albuquerque Jim

I found that the PP springs and Daystar Spacers worked just fine. Not a harsh ride at all and they worked well on Prichett Canyon in Moab.

This combo gives me 2.75" of lift. Keep in mind I have a heavy truck, ARB, Skids, Sliders, Winch, Etc that may make a difference.