Limiting Straps Needed? Or bumpstops?
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Limiting Straps Needed? Or bumpstops?
I'm trying to figure out here what would help my situation.
On full stuff on one side, the opposite side is extending so far, that the shock is being extended completely. Obviously, will need limiting straps for that.... OR DO I? It seems that noone runs limiting straps. This is JUST for the REAR by the way.
But, the other problem is at full stuff, my tire just rubs the crap outta my inner wheel well, and really just is like a big brake.
Also, any ideas on how I can extend my bumpstops? I know sonoransteel carries some for $150. Am I able to just weld on an extension?
Here are some pictures I took yesterday testing out my compression/extension on the shocks. Something I never really worried about until recently.
Full Extension
Almost full compression. Still have about 3 inches to go on the shock itself, but, it was being stopped by the fender/wheel well...
Overall rear
From Side
On full stuff on one side, the opposite side is extending so far, that the shock is being extended completely. Obviously, will need limiting straps for that.... OR DO I? It seems that noone runs limiting straps. This is JUST for the REAR by the way.
But, the other problem is at full stuff, my tire just rubs the crap outta my inner wheel well, and really just is like a big brake.
Also, any ideas on how I can extend my bumpstops? I know sonoransteel carries some for $150. Am I able to just weld on an extension?
Here are some pictures I took yesterday testing out my compression/extension on the shocks. Something I never really worried about until recently.
Full Extension
Almost full compression. Still have about 3 inches to go on the shock itself, but, it was being stopped by the fender/wheel well...
Overall rear
From Side
Last edited by BajaRunner; 02-07-2008 at 07:06 AM.
#2
Contributing Member
If you can weld, or know someone who can... extending your bumpstops is a fairly intuitive process. Just need to decide how far the rear wheel can go up before it starts chewing on sheet metal and place the stop in such a way it can't get that compressed. You could do something with the stops in your coils, or add some from the frame to a perch on the axle.
Keep them soft though, as you will most likely hit them more often than you think on the faster trail stuff.
This next bit is just thinking out loud...
If you add the bumpstops, you'll obviously stop up travel. But you'd be creating a fulcrum that might want to extend the opposite wheel even further than usual. This might truly overextend your shock or could release the spring if things got really twisted. So, limit straps might be required to prevent that from happening.
You either need to extend your bumpstops or start cutting up the body. After that, I'd find something like an RTI ramp and see what the effect is on droop. Consider adding straps if you get overextension issues.
My .02.
Keep them soft though, as you will most likely hit them more often than you think on the faster trail stuff.
This next bit is just thinking out loud...
If you add the bumpstops, you'll obviously stop up travel. But you'd be creating a fulcrum that might want to extend the opposite wheel even further than usual. This might truly overextend your shock or could release the spring if things got really twisted. So, limit straps might be required to prevent that from happening.
You either need to extend your bumpstops or start cutting up the body. After that, I'd find something like an RTI ramp and see what the effect is on droop. Consider adding straps if you get overextension issues.
My .02.
#3
Contributing Member
How much do you want to limit your extension? I mean you could get longer shocks right? Then again it actually seems like your bigger problem is the "stuff" Looks like you have 35's... same as me. I had to do some fender cutting but nothing to crazy, and while mine stuff sometimes, it is nothing I don't mind.
For comparison: (Full extension)
I actually do want limiting straps but for a different reason. Tippy is well... too tippy at times. And even though I have the Chevy leafs on the rear now, she still is super flexy and tippy. So I want detachable limiting straps so when I go down a hill, I can control a little better how much she can open up. (All that weight on top is what pulls her open). Granted once we chop her top, it might not be as big of a deal, but after rolling her once... I don;t want to do it again!
Oh and I second the RTI ramp suggestion! It's how we figured out my bump stops!
For comparison: (Full extension)
I actually do want limiting straps but for a different reason. Tippy is well... too tippy at times. And even though I have the Chevy leafs on the rear now, she still is super flexy and tippy. So I want detachable limiting straps so when I go down a hill, I can control a little better how much she can open up. (All that weight on top is what pulls her open). Granted once we chop her top, it might not be as big of a deal, but after rolling her once... I don;t want to do it again!
Oh and I second the RTI ramp suggestion! It's how we figured out my bump stops!
Last edited by Lysmachia; 02-07-2008 at 07:26 AM.
#4
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the quick replies!
I assumed extending the bumpstops wouldn't be too much of an issue I suppose.... I just don't think the sonoransteel bump stops will be long enough for my situation...
As far as limiting straps, I found them to be pretty cheap! $50 gets you a pair... so I might try that. I don't think my setup could go much further anyways w/o something snapping (upper control arms).
Maybe its time for some leafs.
I assumed extending the bumpstops wouldn't be too much of an issue I suppose.... I just don't think the sonoransteel bump stops will be long enough for my situation...
As far as limiting straps, I found them to be pretty cheap! $50 gets you a pair... so I might try that. I don't think my setup could go much further anyways w/o something snapping (upper control arms).
Maybe its time for some leafs.
#5
Registered User
Heres what Im using with my LC Coils
Trim To Fit
Energy Suspension ® performance bump stops help cushion a collapsing suspension, preventing bottoming-out and expensive vehicle damage. HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane bump stops for control arms, traction bars, leaf springs, etc. are guaranteed to last longer and operate more efficiently than original rubber stops.
Part Number: 99101
All purpose bump stop for control arms, traction bars & leaf springs.
Designed to be easily trimmed.
2 1/8" tall, 2" dia.
2 per set
Need a different size? - Check the Universal Bump Stops, Shock Eyes Page
Performance Polyurethane Bump Stops
- Helps prevent damaging and expensive suspension component contact!
- Many styles to choose from–for many application requirements.
- Many feature a specially designed mechanical interlock, a course threaded stud and strong nylon locking nut system.
- Many uses that are too numerous to list here!
- Made of Energy's HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane to add performance and durability.
Keywords: 99101 99101G 99101R 9.9101 9.9101G 9.9101R
Trim To Fit
Energy Suspension ® performance bump stops help cushion a collapsing suspension, preventing bottoming-out and expensive vehicle damage. HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane bump stops for control arms, traction bars, leaf springs, etc. are guaranteed to last longer and operate more efficiently than original rubber stops.
Part Number: 99101
All purpose bump stop for control arms, traction bars & leaf springs.
Designed to be easily trimmed.
2 1/8" tall, 2" dia.
2 per set
Need a different size? - Check the Universal Bump Stops, Shock Eyes Page
Performance Polyurethane Bump Stops
- Helps prevent damaging and expensive suspension component contact!
- Many styles to choose from–for many application requirements.
- Many feature a specially designed mechanical interlock, a course threaded stud and strong nylon locking nut system.
- Many uses that are too numerous to list here!
- Made of Energy's HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane to add performance and durability.
Keywords: 99101 99101G 99101R 9.9101 9.9101G 9.9101R
#6
Contributing Member
I don't think you need straps, but you definitely need longer bumpstops.
IIRC - it's OK to fully extend the shock, bad to fully compress it, so it's Ok if the shock ends up as the limiting factor on droop, but really bad if it's the limit on compression
IIRC - it's OK to fully extend the shock, bad to fully compress it, so it's Ok if the shock ends up as the limiting factor on droop, but really bad if it's the limit on compression
Trending Topics
#8
Contributing Member
Really would depend on what your stock bumpstop is doing already... and how tall the stock bumpstop actually is.
Looks like the ones in your pic are quality and won't cause harsh bottoming... but it also looks like they'd compress to about 1/2 their height. So, about 2" bump stop under full compression (guessing )
Would a 2" bumpstop be enough to stop your tire from eating the fender? If so, bolt them on. If not, just get some sort of steel spacer block you can bolt in between to give some more height.
Looks like the ones in your pic are quality and won't cause harsh bottoming... but it also looks like they'd compress to about 1/2 their height. So, about 2" bump stop under full compression (guessing )
Would a 2" bumpstop be enough to stop your tire from eating the fender? If so, bolt them on. If not, just get some sort of steel spacer block you can bolt in between to give some more height.
#9
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Yes, the stock bump stop is only about 2". Im thinking I'll need about 4-6 inches extension from the stock bump stop. I need to jack up the tire again
If not I guess I can just try and cut some metal, and get it professionally welded. Or try it myself, I DO have a welder I been meaning to try
If not I guess I can just try and cut some metal, and get it professionally welded. Or try it myself, I DO have a welder I been meaning to try
#10
Contributing Member
Maybe get a section of rectangular stock, thicker wall the better (1/4" or so).
Get the long side of the rectangle at the length of extension you need... 4" to 6".
Drill a hole at each end of the short side. Now, remove stock bumpstop and bolt this extension in it's place. Then either install the factory bumpstop to the bottom or get your new 9.9104's.
Personally, I'd get the new style... they are going to smooth out the bumps more.
A landing pad on your axle might be nice to keep things from getting out of whack. But that's a great project for a new welder. If it fails... nothing really bad will happen.
Get the long side of the rectangle at the length of extension you need... 4" to 6".
Drill a hole at each end of the short side. Now, remove stock bumpstop and bolt this extension in it's place. Then either install the factory bumpstop to the bottom or get your new 9.9104's.
Personally, I'd get the new style... they are going to smooth out the bumps more.
A landing pad on your axle might be nice to keep things from getting out of whack. But that's a great project for a new welder. If it fails... nothing really bad will happen.
#11
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Good point!
I've got a drill press... The metal shop could hopefully just cut me a few peices...
That sounds like a great idea. But, at the same time... it would be a good first welding project!
I've got a drill press... The metal shop could hopefully just cut me a few peices...
That sounds like a great idea. But, at the same time... it would be a good first welding project!
#12
Contributing Member
Most of the metal suppliers around me have "remnant bins" where they sell there cutoffs that are to short. Usually sell by the pound and sometimes will just give you stuff if you want very little... which you do. Either way, very cheap route to take.
I warn you though, once you step into one of those places there is a good chance your mind will begin to run with fab ideas... dangerous those metal suppliers.
I warn you though, once you step into one of those places there is a good chance your mind will begin to run with fab ideas... dangerous those metal suppliers.
#15
Registered User
Check into "Timbren" bumpstops. They are sold as bumpstops and overload helpers.
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: HARFORD COUNTY, Maryland
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Ian,
How does your rear sway bar look with that lift? Mine has the look its about to snap at the nut/link area from stress due to the lift....
How does your rear sway bar look with that lift? Mine has the look its about to snap at the nut/link area from stress due to the lift....
#17
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
I actually had the same idea on using some square/rectangle stock to drop the sway bar brackets down from the frame. But, I took mine off since I didn't need it!
Well, I ended up buying the Daystar bump stops. Waiting for them in the mail, then I have to re-measure some stuff and then decide on how to lower the stops, which apparently is a lot easier than I had anticipated.
#18
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Well, its not pretty, but, I got some 4x4x3/8 rectangle stock. Cut it to 4" length... Painted it, drilled some holes and stuck them on.
I didn't jack the tire up yet, but, this weekend I'll be going wheeling so we'll see how they work. I still think they are not low enough...
I didn't jack the tire up yet, but, this weekend I'll be going wheeling so we'll see how they work. I still think they are not low enough...
#19
Contributing Member
Very nice. Look fine to me.
They are quite a bit lower than stock, plus further outboard so they should hit a lot sooner. I guess your wheeling trip will tell.
They are quite a bit lower than stock, plus further outboard so they should hit a lot sooner. I guess your wheeling trip will tell.