Installing Sonoran Steel Shackle Hangers

Gangus2006 · 09-09-2005, 03:36 PM

I just went through this, so Im going to post some pointers (despite the Tech threads on this).

-PAINT THE DAMN THING. I cleaned it up with a wire brush on my drill, went to work, woke up the next morning to find it all rusted up again. Hang it up using the hole for the Grade 8 Safety bolt and paint it. Make sure you let the paint dry too.
-Get new hardware. Hardware is cheap enough where its pointless to reuse the bolts that are on there. It cost me less than $10 for 4 M12x1.25 50mm Class 8.8 Bolts, and 4 each Stainless Locks and Flats.
-WD-40/PBBlaster is your friend. Use it ont he bolts holding the stock crap on.
-Get a ratchet, and a couple 3" extensions you dont mind breaking. I broke a ratchet, and 2 extensions trying to take the stock bolts off.
-Get a pipe abotu 5 feet long, that will fit over your ratchet. Believe me, you will need the extra leverage.
-You dont need to bend the skid plate out of hte way. I dont know why the other How-Tos tell you to do this, but my hangers cleared my Skid Plate by a whole 2mm.
-Tighten up the bolts as tightly as you can tighten them. I put all my strenght into my 5' long ratchet. That beast is not going to move anywhere.

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Bob_98SR5 · 09-09-2005, 03:58 PM

if youre speaking about my writeup, which i think is the only writeup on this topic, you have to bend the skid plate because i had to. perhaps your year 4runner has a narrower skid plate or steve made them more narrower.

also, you should prime the metal instead of just painting on it. one thing i forgot to mention (and do) is to clear coat it as well, though mine has held up well and frankly speaking, i dont need this to look shiny and pretty. its a shackle hanger, after all

and i beg to differ on your "tighten as tight as possible" advice. seems to me you are compounding your problem with getting off rusted bolts caused by the weather in your neck of the woods. while steve did not post any torque specs, i always like the rule to hand tighten + 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

bob

superjoe83 · 09-09-2005, 04:05 PM

just my opinion, but 8.8 bolts may be on the weak side, 8.8 is equivalent to a grade 5, while 10.9 bolts are equivalent to grade 8, i certainly wouldn't want that thing flying off (which it probably wont) again, just my $.02

jimbo74 · 09-09-2005, 04:07 PM

grade 5 is pretty strong... i have grade 5 bolts holding half my truck together...

Gangus2006 · 09-09-2005, 04:12 PM

I was under the impression 8.8=Grade 8. Guess Ill go looking for the 10.9 bolts then. (Took me a while to find these 8.8 bolts)

Bob, I believe it was your writeup I was referencing. I wasnt taking a stab at you. I saw another writeup else where that asked for bending hte skid plate also.

I did prime the metal. Couldnt find any of that metal etch stuff, so I just used Rustoleom primer, then Rustoleom Flat Black. I was going to use the Rustoleom primer, then Duplicolor wheel paint and clear coat, but didnt have the time to wait for that paint to fully cure (8-10 days!), and I dont need, nor want it shiney. If this paint ever comes off though, Im going to have it sandblasted, and Ill find that metal etching stuff and use wheel paint.

Bob_98SR5 · 09-09-2005, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gangus2006

I was under the impression 8.8=Grade 8. Guess Ill go looking for the 10.9 bolts then. (Took me a while to find these 8.8 bolts)

Bob, I believe it was your writeup I was referencing. I wasnt taking a stab at you. I saw another writeup else where that asked for bending hte skid plate also.

I did prime the metal. Couldnt find any of that metal etch stuff, so I just used Rustoleom primer, then Rustoleom Flat Black. I was going to use the Rustoleom primer, then Duplicolor wheel paint and clear coat, but didnt have the time to wait for that paint to fully cure (8-10 days!), and I dont need, nor want it shiney. If this paint ever comes off though, Im going to have it sandblasted, and Ill find that metal etching stuff and use wheel paint.

no offense taken at all, dont worry. just adding a rebuttal and additional info

**waskillywabbit** · 09-09-2005, 07:17 PM

Shackle hangers are made to pull the FULL weight of your vehicle.

USE GRADE 10.9 bolts (Grade 8 equivalent) or anything that is going to see any kind of real loading. If you are holding it together, Grade 5 is fine.

Those bolts I imagine would need to be torqued to somewhere around 70 ft-lbs cause you DON'Tt want them coming/wiggling loose by any means.

09-09-2005, 04:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
superjoe83 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Oregon City, Oregon Posts: 1,870	just my opinion, but 8.8 bolts may be on the weak side, 8.8 is equivalent to a grade 5, while 10.9 bolts are equivalent to grade 8, i certainly wouldn't want that thing flying off (which it probably wont) again, just my $.02 __________________ - Joe 1984 SR5 4runner, 22re, 5-speed, chevy 63"s, rears up front custom pack, BBCS shocks, 2" BL, 5.29's, welded rear, Detroit in front, Longfields, IFS Rear, 39.5x13.50x15 IROK's, Marlin's High Steer, MC07 with stock cases, Marlin's cross member, tube bumper, Warn XD9000, Allied Beadlocks 1999 Taco 2.7 5-speed, LCE Header, Jardine 2.25 Cat-Back, 3" Downey Coilover, 33x13.5 Toyo MT's, ARB Bull Bar, Retrofitted Acura TL HID Projectors with 50W ballasts and 50W DL50 Philips 3900k bulbs

09-09-2005, 07:17 PM	#7 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,554	Shackle hangers are made to pull the FULL weight of your vehicle. USE GRADE 10.9 bolts (Grade 8 equivalent) or anything that is going to see any kind of real loading. If you are holding it together, Grade 5 is fine. Those bolts I imagine would need to be torqued to somewhere around 70 ft-lbs cause you DON'Tt want them coming/wiggling loose by any means. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

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09-09-2005, 03:58 PM	#2 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,092	if youre speaking about my writeup, which i think is the only writeup on this topic, you have to bend the skid plate because i had to. perhaps your year 4runner has a narrower skid plate or steve made them more narrower. also, you should prime the metal instead of just painting on it. one thing i forgot to mention (and do) is to clear coat it as well, though mine has held up well and frankly speaking, i dont need this to look shiny and pretty. its a shackle hanger, after all and i beg to differ on your "tighten as tight as possible" advice. seems to me you are compounding your problem with getting off rusted bolts caused by the weather in your neck of the woods. while steve did not post any torque specs, i always like the rule to hand tighten + 1/4 to 1/2 turn. bob

09-09-2005, 04:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
jimbo74 Banned Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 6,582	grade 5 is pretty strong... i have grade 5 bolts holding half my truck together...

09-09-2005, 04:12 PM	#5 (permalink)
Gangus2006 Banned Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Fitchburg, MA Posts: 1,110	I was under the impression 8.8=Grade 8. Guess Ill go looking for the 10.9 bolts then. (Took me a while to find these 8.8 bolts) Bob, I believe it was your writeup I was referencing. I wasnt taking a stab at you. I saw another writeup else where that asked for bending hte skid plate also. I did prime the metal. Couldnt find any of that metal etch stuff, so I just used Rustoleom primer, then Rustoleom Flat Black. I was going to use the Rustoleom primer, then Duplicolor wheel paint and clear coat, but didnt have the time to wait for that paint to fully cure (8-10 days!), and I dont need, nor want it shiney. If this paint ever comes off though, Im going to have it sandblasted, and Ill find that metal etching stuff and use wheel paint.