Bent Drive Shaft Removal

Trail_Banger · 10-02-2009, 10:24 AM

Hey boys and girls,

I bent a drive shaft pretty bad 2 weekends ago and I am trying to remove it to install the new one. Trouble is, she's bent so bad it's bound up tight. All the bolts are out and the truck is sitting level. The drive shaft will not travel forward on the yoke at all. I've jacked up the differential and nothing happened. I am wondering if a hi-lift on the bumper would help pull the shaft backwards on the yoke or free up the binding. If I have to, I'll cut the darn thing off. All I have is a hacksaw and would rather avoid that if I could. Oh yea, forgot to mention, I've tried a 3 pound hammer and a prybar. Nothing doing!

Anyone out there have an idea for me? A 20 minute job turned into an ordeal. Don't they all? :-)

Thanks!

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

TOYOTA 1 · 10-02-2009, 10:27 AM

try prying on it at the rear diff, theres a pretty good spot to get a pry bar in right at the flange. also try a bfh if you have not already.

theAuthority · 10-02-2009, 10:29 AM

jack up the bumper and let the suspension drop. then hit it by the dif with a sledgehammer.. if that doesn't work.

try up by the transfercase.

one piece drive shaft or does it have the carrier bearing?

TOYOTA 1 · 10-02-2009, 10:32 AM

its a regular cab so its a one peace d shaft.

theAuthority · 10-02-2009, 10:33 AM

good call.

i'd be under there kicking that thing while hanging from the frame rails, haha ...

but i have alot of room under my truck to do that

ocdropzone · 10-02-2009, 10:35 AM

TOYOTA 1 · 10-02-2009, 10:36 AM

lol i was gonna say try kicking it (done that a time or two). but i figures he would like to try a less redneck approach lol.

haha rob has the idea lol.

theAuthority · 10-02-2009, 10:37 AM

Or you could ask this guy to drill it out for you

ocdropzone · 10-02-2009, 10:39 AM

since it is bent and needs to be retubed anyway might as well have fun getting it off.
plus cutting off won't screw up a pinion bearing or an output shaft on a tc that prying or a sledge might do..
you would be suprised how fast a sawzall will go through a stock thin wall DS

theAuthority · 10-02-2009, 10:39 AM

This guy helped me change my tires, he just picked up my truck while I did ALL the work ..

eric-the-red · 10-02-2009, 11:39 AM

Jacking up the diff would make it worse, that compresses the driveshaft. You need to lower the rear axle, maybe even remove one end of the springs.

tc · 10-02-2009, 02:11 PM

My guess is that it's just stuck/rusted on the flange. I can't imagine what it would take to bend the solid splined section so bad that it woudn't move at all... and if you did, how you even moved the truck at all with it bent that bad.

Spray some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) on the flange.

If you look closely at the side of the yoke, you'll see a little undercut to put a prybar in - needs to be kinda narrow.

A couple taps and it will break free. Believe me, you're not going to generate enough force to damage the pinion or the bearing in either the diff or the tcase.

When putting it back together, put a LIGHT coating of grease or anti-seize on the flange so it won't stick so bad next time.

Trail_Banger · 10-03-2009, 04:11 AM

Nope, it's 2 piece. A yoke and the main shaft.

Trail_Banger · 10-03-2009, 04:11 AM

Dude...you reminded me that my neighbor has a sawsall!! Right on!

Trail_Banger · 10-03-2009, 04:13 AM

That guy has man boobs and he scares me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by theAuthority

This guy help

ed me change my tires, he just picked up my truck while I did ALL the work ..

bigt · 10-03-2009, 04:16 AM

always easier with a grinder or sawzall.. but also usually more expensive to repair the big hole you now have lol

TOYOTA 1 · 10-03-2009, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tc

My guess is that it's just stuck/rusted on the flange. I can't imagine what it would take to bend the solid splined section so bad that it woudn't move at all... and if you did, how you even moved the truck at all with it bent that bad.

Spray some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) on the flange.

If you look closely at the side of the yoke, you'll see a little undercut to put a prybar in - needs to be kinda narrow.

A couple taps and it will break free. Believe me, you're not going to generate enough force to damage the pinion or the bearing in either the diff or the tcase.

When putting it back together, put a LIGHT coating of grease or anti-seize on the flange so it won't stick so bad next time.

x10. i couldnt agree more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trail_Banger

Nope, it's 2 piece. A yoke and the main shaft.

thats what they call a one piece d shaft

.

drew303 · 10-03-2009, 11:28 AM

well, he can't just knock it free because sounds like it's bound up on the yoke (splines) .. the flanges have that centered lip which is why it won't just drop off..

dropping the suspension sounds like the easiest way to get it out.

tc · 10-03-2009, 02:31 PM

I don't think it's as bound up as he thinks it is - just seems that way because it's frozen to the flanges.

I have been becoming the dean of driveshaft damage lately, including one that was relatively seized at the slipyoke, and it would still move with enough pressure.

Trail_Banger · 10-04-2009, 11:40 AM

Yep, you got it. That's the problem. I'm going to end up cutting it off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by drew303

well, he can't just knock it free because sounds like it's bound up on the yoke (splines) .. the flanges have that centered lip which is why it won't just drop off..

dropping the suspension sounds like the easiest way to get it out.

Trail_Banger · 10-04-2009, 11:42 AM

I am sure it's not frozen/rusted on there. I had it off last summer to do the e-locker mod. It came of real easy. I think it's stuck on that center lip due to binding. I'll take some pics when I get around to cutting this thing off. I think we'll be surprised at how thin that metal is.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tc

I don't think it's as bound up as he thinks it is - just seems that way because it's frozen to the flanges.

I have been becoming the dean of driveshaft damage lately, including one that was relatively seized at the slipyoke, and it would still move with enough pressure.

raydouble · 10-04-2009, 12:06 PM

Cut it in half, they are like a mm thick.

Trail_Banger · 10-04-2009, 05:17 PM

Yep, sawsall!

10-02-2009, 10:35 AM	#6 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,720	__________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

10-02-2009, 10:39 AM	#9 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,720	since it is bent and needs to be retubed anyway might as well have fun getting it off. plus cutting off won't screw up a pinion bearing or an output shaft on a tc that prying or a sledge might do.. you would be suprised how fast a sawzall will go through a stock thin wall DS __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others Last edited by ocdropzone; 10-02-2009 at 10:40 AM.

10-02-2009, 11:39 AM	#11 (permalink)
eric-the-red Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Port Coquitlam, BC Posts: 2,493	Jacking up the diff would make it worse, that compresses the driveshaft. You need to lower the rear axle, maybe even remove one end of the springs. __________________ 2001 4Runner 4.30 ratio 1999 e-locked rear axle and front diff; OME881/N91S front; OME891/N86 rear; Tundra brake swap; 1" 4Crawler body lift; 63" 4Crawler SliderZ; TJM T-15 with Warn M8000 winch and Amsteel blue synthetic line; 265/75R16 Nitto TGs or 255/85R16 Truxs MTs; Cobra 75 WX ST cb; Alinco DR635 VHF/UHF ham radio; ham call sign license plates - VE7 EGC

10-02-2009, 02:11 PM	#12 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,377	My guess is that it's just stuck/rusted on the flange. I can't imagine what it would take to bend the solid splined section so bad that it woudn't move at all... and if you did, how you even moved the truck at all with it bent that bad. Spray some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) on the flange. If you look closely at the side of the yoke, you'll see a little undercut to put a prybar in - needs to be kinda narrow. A couple taps and it will break free. Believe me, you're not going to generate enough force to damage the pinion or the bearing in either the diff or the tcase. When putting it back together, put a LIGHT coating of grease or anti-seize on the flange so it won't stick so bad next time. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

10-03-2009, 04:11 AM	#13 (permalink)
Trail_Banger Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Mountains of VA Posts: 156	Nope, it's 2 piece. A yoke and the main shaft. __________________ 1989 Truck, Regular Cab, 3.slow, 5-speed, 32s, 4.10s, Trail Gear rock rails, Bud Built full belly skids & E-Locker Mod.

10-02-2009, 10:29 AM	#3 (permalink)
theAuthority Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lynnwood, WA Posts: 1,664	jack up the bumper and let the suspension drop. then hit it by the dif with a sledgehammer.. if that doesn't work. try up by the transfercase. one piece drive shaft or does it have the carrier bearing?

10-02-2009, 10:33 AM	#5 (permalink)
theAuthority Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lynnwood, WA Posts: 1,664	good call. i'd be under there kicking that thing while hanging from the frame rails, haha ... but i have alot of room under my truck to do that

10-02-2009, 10:37 AM	#8 (permalink)
theAuthority Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lynnwood, WA Posts: 1,664	Or you could ask this guy to drill it out for you

10-02-2009, 10:39 AM	#10 (permalink)
theAuthority Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lynnwood, WA Posts: 1,664	This guy helped me change my tires, he just picked up my truck while I did ALL the work ..

10-03-2009, 04:11 AM	#14 (permalink)
Trail_Banger Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Mountains of VA Posts: 156	Dude...you reminded me that my neighbor has a sawsall!! Right on! __________________ 1989 Truck, Regular Cab, 3.slow, 5-speed, 32s, 4.10s, Trail Gear rock rails, Bud Built full belly skids & E-Locker Mod.

10-03-2009, 04:16 AM	#16 (permalink)
bigt Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario Posts: 3,201	always easier with a grinder or sawzall.. but also usually more expensive to repair the big hole you now have lol __________________ 1991 HILUX SURF SSR-X turbo diesel right hand drive toyota imported in 2005 from japan, 130,000 km 31 bfg a/t auto current build 1987 LWB suzuki samurai. turning 2 into one.. yota axles welded front to back, yota springs , ifs steering box,, this bad boy will not only eat jeeps but toyotas aswell \m/

10-03-2009, 11:28 AM	#18 (permalink)
drew303 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Olympia, WA Posts: 2,033	well, he can't just knock it free because sounds like it's bound up on the yoke (splines) .. the flanges have that centered lip which is why it won't just drop off.. dropping the suspension sounds like the easiest way to get it out. __________________ 1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

10-03-2009, 02:31 PM	#19 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,377	I don't think it's as bound up as he thinks it is - just seems that way because it's frozen to the flanges. I have been becoming the dean of driveshaft damage lately, including one that was relatively seized at the slipyoke, and it would still move with enough pressure. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

10-04-2009, 12:06 PM	#22 (permalink)
raydouble Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Rochester, Washington Posts: 343	Cut it in half, they are like a mm thick. __________________ 90' Pickup reg cab 22RE-W56-LCE dual chain conversion-tr*il gear slides-31' BFG MT-15x8 Allied rockcrawlers-SAW torsion bars-Rancho & Bilstein shocks-97' taco front bumper-custom 6 leaf rear 01' 4Runner SR5 4WD 5VZFE all stock

10-04-2009, 05:17 PM	#23 (permalink)
Trail_Banger Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Mountains of VA Posts: 156	Yep, sawsall! __________________ 1989 Truck, Regular Cab, 3.slow, 5-speed, 32s, 4.10s, Trail Gear rock rails, Bud Built full belly skids & E-Locker Mod.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search