Alternative to a rear locker
#1
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Alternative to a rear locker?
Hi all, this board is great! It's been lots of fun reading about all of the things I am going to be able to do to my '89 4Runner. Anyway, since I lack the funds for an air locker and I don't like the idea of the rear diff. locking up without my permission I thought of a possible alternative. Could I hook up independant brake levers attached to each parking brake in the rear so that if I lift one wheel into the air I can lock it up and send the power to the wheel on the ground? I'm not an experienced 'wheeler but to me it seems like this could work. Let me know what you think -Chris
Last edited by CRogge; 09-30-2003 at 07:39 PM.
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Chris with that kind of ingenuity you shall have a very interesting rig by the time you're done.
You're idea won't work, but it is very creative!
Save up for the right locker...
Search Ebay, they do come up once in a while.
You're idea won't work, but it is very creative!
Save up for the right locker...
Search Ebay, they do come up once in a while.
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Actually it will work, but no where near as well as a true selectable locker...or even an "auto" locker.
The handbrake locker mod can help get you out of a sticky spot, but it is in no way a replacement for a diff-locking locker.
Jim
The handbrake locker mod can help get you out of a sticky spot, but it is in no way a replacement for a diff-locking locker.
Jim
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In suggesting that it would work, that would assume that you are VERY talented in using the hand brake on the CORRECT side at the right time.
I spent the money on the ARB's finally, after going through other lockers. This is one of the best investments I've ever made!
I spent the money on the ARB's finally, after going through other lockers. This is one of the best investments I've ever made!
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True.
But even if you put a lot of friction on both tires via the un-modded e-brake, you will get a small amount of traction.
I'm not talking miracles, but every little bit will help.
Jim
But even if you put a lot of friction on both tires via the un-modded e-brake, you will get a small amount of traction.
I'm not talking miracles, but every little bit will help.
Jim
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I dunno if I'd agree 100%. You'd say those mods would be better than a locker?
If the handbrakes are powerful enough and done just right, you would have the same effect as a locker (for rock crawling terrain).
Jim
If the handbrakes are powerful enough and done just right, you would have the same effect as a locker (for rock crawling terrain).
Jim
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No, you misundertand what I'm saying. I don't think these mods are better than a locker, but they're cheaper and required for wheeling anyway...
The handbrake idea mentioned will not do the same thing as a locker. No matter what, only a single tire will have power going to it. It's more like a poor quality LSD.
The handbrake idea mentioned will not do the same thing as a locker. No matter what, only a single tire will have power going to it. It's more like a poor quality LSD.
#10
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Cutting brakes is exactly what CRogge is describing, and they are very usefull if you have the other equipment to go along with them. IMHO, by them selves, it is a waste of time and money-
You need a Dana 300 t'case w/ twin sticks and the adapters to make it work on a Yota. That gives you the option of front wheel or rear wheel drive. In certain situations while rock crawling, most frequently in competitive rock racing, the driver can lock a wheel and pivot the rig on that tire w/ plenty of throttle. For the general wheeler that doesn't have the money invested in bullet proof parts, and a light weight buggy, they usually end up breaking more stuff than they're worth.
Jesse at High Angle Driveline is working on a rear drive shaft disconnect that will give us Toy guy's the same ability- pure front wheel drive.
later
You need a Dana 300 t'case w/ twin sticks and the adapters to make it work on a Yota. That gives you the option of front wheel or rear wheel drive. In certain situations while rock crawling, most frequently in competitive rock racing, the driver can lock a wheel and pivot the rig on that tire w/ plenty of throttle. For the general wheeler that doesn't have the money invested in bullet proof parts, and a light weight buggy, they usually end up breaking more stuff than they're worth.
Jesse at High Angle Driveline is working on a rear drive shaft disconnect that will give us Toy guy's the same ability- pure front wheel drive.
later
Last edited by crawler#976; 10-01-2003 at 08:26 AM.
#11
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Originally posted by crawler#976
Cutting brakes is exactly what CRogge is describing, and they are very usefull if you have the other equipment to go along with them. IMHO, by them selves, it is a waste of time and money-
You need a Dana 300 t'case w/ twin sticks and the adapters to make it work on a Yota. That gives you the option of front wheel or rear wheel drive. In certain situations while rock crawling, most frequently in competitive rock racing, the driver can lock a wheel and pivot the rig on that tire w/ plenty of throttle. For the general wheeler that doesn't have the money invested in bullet proof parts, and a light weight buggy, they usually end up breaking more stuff than they're worth.
Jesse at High Angle Driveline is working on a rear drive shaft disconnect that will give us Toy guy's the same ability- pure front wheel drive.
later
Cutting brakes is exactly what CRogge is describing, and they are very usefull if you have the other equipment to go along with them. IMHO, by them selves, it is a waste of time and money-
You need a Dana 300 t'case w/ twin sticks and the adapters to make it work on a Yota. That gives you the option of front wheel or rear wheel drive. In certain situations while rock crawling, most frequently in competitive rock racing, the driver can lock a wheel and pivot the rig on that tire w/ plenty of throttle. For the general wheeler that doesn't have the money invested in bullet proof parts, and a light weight buggy, they usually end up breaking more stuff than they're worth.
Jesse at High Angle Driveline is working on a rear drive shaft disconnect that will give us Toy guy's the same ability- pure front wheel drive.
later
front range off road has had a twin stick toy shifter for quite some time. i believe marlin may have one, but i am not sure on them. they do exist, but it is only for the gear driven top shifters.
EDIT: they also have them for v-6 manual cases.
Last edited by joez; 10-01-2003 at 11:54 AM.
#12
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There is a functional difference in a twin stick and using a twin sticked 300.
The twin stick on a Toy case gives you rear wheel drive (2-lo) or 4 wheel drive.
The twin sticked 300 gives you front 2-lo or rear 2-lo in addition to regular 4 wheel drive.
I would not try to put cutters on an open diffed trail rig. For a lot less monkeying around and a result that is fundamentally more sound, my money is on lockers, period.
The twin stick on a Toy case gives you rear wheel drive (2-lo) or 4 wheel drive.
The twin sticked 300 gives you front 2-lo or rear 2-lo in addition to regular 4 wheel drive.
I would not try to put cutters on an open diffed trail rig. For a lot less monkeying around and a result that is fundamentally more sound, my money is on lockers, period.
#13
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The twin stick on a Toy case gives you rear wheel drive (2-lo) or 4 wheel drive.
#14
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Pointless? What if you have a Detroit or are in Moab?
Tons of traction so a person needs 2wd to turn.
I hope to have a twin stick some day.
The Toy to 300 is really only common in buggies, I can't see a real reason to need it for the average wheeler.
Tons of traction so a person needs 2wd to turn.
I hope to have a twin stick some day.
The Toy to 300 is really only common in buggies, I can't see a real reason to need it for the average wheeler.
#15
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
The Toy to 300 is really only common in buggies, I can't see a real reason to need it for the average wheeler.
The Toy to 300 is really only common in buggies, I can't see a real reason to need it for the average wheeler.
Yea, my buddy has one. Also has dual cases, separate l/r brake control, and rear disk brakes. Pretty trick setup.
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im quoting myself here:
if you have a detroit, then yes, it is almost needed. but with a selectable, you just unlock it.
wow, thats quite pointless if you have a front selectable locker.
#17
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wow, thanks for all the replies! I don't know if I'm gonna try the independant brakes or not, but as it was said before: every little bit helps.
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