pwd

Awesome so far. Be sure to take some pics for us of the frame before/after etc... I love that kind of thing. Good luck!

Matt16

In a lot of ways, the 4Runner was in MUCH better shape than the Landcruiser. The Cruiser has pretty extensive rust issues. I cracked the roof the other day driving on a very bumpy road with my 100lbs boat on the roof to go fishing. The area above the gutter was pretty bad. I think I'm going to have to find a donor Cruiser roof section and graft it in.

As for rust proofing the frame, the only thing I'm going to do for certain is drill a few drain holes by the rear spring perches to permit me to wash crud out of the frame. My current frame has 2 inches of wet sand and dirt in the frame. I'll post picks when I autopsy the old frame.

I'm thinking I'm going to either POR-15 the inside frame or spray with Fluid Film. I don't like the idea of grit, and sand getting stuck to fluid film and not being able to wash it out, but I think its going to be tricky to thoroughly spray the inside of the frame without requiring a lot of (expensive) paint.

yotaman90

Any updates?

Matt16

Yeah actually, I'm re-assembling my drivers side knuckle after a rebuild. The axle seal was pooched, and it was puking oil all over the tire. As with all jobs on old rusty trucks, there were a couple hiccups- first was that cone washers connecting the steering arm to the knuckle were really stuck on. My prefered method of freeing cone washers is to leave the nut threaded on the stud and to slip a socket over the nut and beat on that. Cleaning all the grease and oil off the parts took a day. I repainted the knuckle, brake backing plate, steering arm etc etc. I used gloss black, because gloss paint sheds mud easiest. Next issue was the male brake hardline-softline connector cross-threaded bad. I ended up having to buy a new fitting then parts shop and having to flare the hard line with a borrowed double-flare kit. The next problem was (is) that the cotter pin in the crown nut on the TRE sheared leaving both pieces stuck in the hole in the stud. They wont come out even with a punch. If tried drilling them out, though I'm not really getting anywhere with that... I might just use blue (medium-strength) thread locker and hope that in conjunction with the friction-fit of the TRE stud is sufficient to keep it in place. Now I'm going to rebuild the drivers side caliper.

Matt16

Alright, I cut the brake line right at the flare, slid the old male fitting off, and put on a new one. I then flared the line again. The new male end threaded right in properly, I bled the brakes and they're functioning well.

I drilled out the cotter pin in the TRE and put in a new one. The blue thread locker didn't sit right with me.

The truck definately drives better now. I'm hoping that when I get around to doing the passenger side knuckle the improvement is almost as great.

phildelfino

good luck with that diesel cruiser. you got a rig you wanted. sounds like you are on top of your maintenance. thanks for the pics.

Matt16

A couple weeks ago I rebuilt the DS knuckle and replaced the toasted axle seal.



remove snap ring on axle.


Remove hub, caliper etc




Remove 54mm nuts and slide hub off spindle.






















Flaring out brake line after replacing male fitting

Matt16

Then I rebuilt the calipers (no pics) and then went about re-adjusting the valves. THis actually made them louder, so I think the rockers have divots in them from wear. I will re-set them with a dial indicator when I have a chance.

Matt16

Then I went fishing.

gdutch

Nicely done man, that's such a sweet find! Keep us posted on what you do with it.

aviator

I don't think that's enough wood to make it float Matt...

I see you had a little trouble with your line too...
Catch anything?

Matt16

The HJ60 has been on a half-dozen 500mi trips to the Kamloops area in the last couple months. Never let me down. It did start puking diesel out of the top of the fuel filter, so I replaced that and powerwashed the engine. I am ashamed to admit I haven't checked or changed out the gear oil yet, so today I went down to the parts store and bought $100 of Redline MT-90 synthetic gear oil. This stuff was the cats arse for my G52 5 speed in my 4Runner. Hope its as good in my cruiser. Now, off to find my big sockets...

FlyingLow

Oh, watch the synthetics in the cruiser. I tried some semi synthetic oil in the t-case and diff in my cruiser quite a few years ago (10?) and it puked oil until I changed the oil back to cheap stuff. That was with a rebuilt t-case, new seals from toyota and all. The cheap oil stopped leaking shortly after I changed it back. Maybe someone else here has had better success but thats my $0.02.

kerelawsurf

sweet find lots of room under the hood have fun

Matt16

I opened up the oil fill bolt before draining (force of habit), and much to my surprise, the gear oil was still clean... this leads me to the startling realization that perhaps the previous owner may have done some maintenance.

The HJ60 has developed a pretty serious leak in the P/S pump, so that $100 is going towards a rebuild kit or a used P/S pump from EBI.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Lookin good Matt! I found one down the street for sale, nondiesel, but a '60 non the less!

Matt16

For some weird reason, my PS pump and rear main seal have *stopped* leaking (???) I've refilled the P/S pump with ATF, perhaps there was P/S fluid in there before (big no no for Toyotas). Couldn't tell you why the rear main seal stopped leaking, but there's no new fresh oil.

Noticed this while changing out my oil. Expensive oil change again- $30 filter, and $60 for 12qts of Rotella 14w40. I turned on briefly to try and pump oil out of the filter as it spilled last time and for ink-black diesel oil all over the driveway (this method didn't work) but i discovered something cool about my 2H engine- the engine shuts itself off if theres no oil pressure in seconds. No, the engine didn't seize up, the EDIC (Electronic Diesel Injection Control ?) seemed to shut it off. Too cool.

I reset my valves with a dial indicator. One of my exhaust valves was loose by 0.004. Tightened that up and it eliminated the valve clatter i had. The engine is eerily quiet now for a diesel.

Replaced my front diff gear oil today as well, the old stuff had been water-contaminated and I'd avoided putting it in 4wd. Also drained my water separator. Diesels have water separators as water can't be fired through the injectors or bad stuff happens.

aviator

Sounds good Matt... you can get a can of Diesel Conditioner (water separator/suspender?) stuff at CT that you add to the tank it will get rid of any water in the diesel and allow the engine to burn it off. If your truck sat for a while before you got it I'd bet there's a good bit of water in the tank from condensation. We used to use it about every 2nd fill during the winter on the heavy diesels at the airport. It seems to work...

MY PS stopped leaking... for a while... now it's started again... gonna have to replace it...

Matt16

Seeing how only maybe a couple table spoons of water accumulated in 10 000km+, I don't think I'm going to worry about it. I will be checking over the fall and winter though.

FlyingLow

My friend had a HJ60 and took it Toyota because they advertised any Toyota $28 oil change... He was told not to come back.

EDIC is great until it screws up and starts intermittently killing your engine... Common problem, mostly wiring issues i think but the EDIC unit thingy is expensive.