LINY4Runner's 2001 4Runner Build-Up Thread
04-10-2010, 07:51 PM
#21
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here's how I ran the mic cable:
also did a full detail...wash, clay, carnauba, took the seats out and vac, full interior clean, door jambs, glass...everything:
Paint came in and the emblems came out GREAT!!
and.................SAVAGE OFF-ROAD SLIDERS ARE ON!!!!
also did a full detail...wash, clay, carnauba, took the seats out and vac, full interior clean, door jambs, glass...everything:
Paint came in and the emblems came out GREAT!!
and.................SAVAGE OFF-ROAD SLIDERS ARE ON!!!!
04-27-2010, 04:49 PM
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Update!
The Spotter®
Thought of this while running a black rock garden...wouldn't it be nice to have a camera on the front to help with spotting...welllll I made it a reality
Thought of this while running a black rock garden...wouldn't it be nice to have a camera on the front to help with spotting...welllll I made it a reality
05-03-2010, 02:56 AM
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the exciting-but-not-really-mods update
sooo I installed my Panhard bar drop, had a buddy drop a stack of dimes around it and then weld in a brace too...thanks to sn0wrunner for the tip!
afterwards I hit it with some undercoating
also threw in the Energy Suspension Poly Steering Rack Bushings!
afterwards I hit it with some undercoating
also threw in the Energy Suspension Poly Steering Rack Bushings!
05-19-2010, 06:04 PM
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Got the 48" all cast Hi-Lift, and mounted it to the roll bar as such:
The threads in the upper bolt holes in the roll bar are 7/16", so I got a 5 inch long 3/8" bolt and passed it entirely through the roll bar with a flat washer on both ends and a lock nut to hold it in place:
I also picked up a pair of "fender washers" which had the 3/8" hole and were 1.5" in diameter. I used these to sandwich the jack, and all held together with a wing nut for quick and easy access:
All done!!
And the cargo cover fits, although awkwardly...I don't care, I'd never run without it...
and....
I no longer have to worry about strawberry milkshake!
I ordered a B&M (70255) Transmission Cooler from Summit and installed today!
I decided against the Tru-Cool as everyone else uses, because B&M has made a name for itself as quality parts and because Summit has a reputation for getting things to my door within 2 days. The cooler also has an interior bypass system to allow for cool fluid to bypass the cooler until it's at operating temperature.
The threads in the upper bolt holes in the roll bar are 7/16", so I got a 5 inch long 3/8" bolt and passed it entirely through the roll bar with a flat washer on both ends and a lock nut to hold it in place:
I also picked up a pair of "fender washers" which had the 3/8" hole and were 1.5" in diameter. I used these to sandwich the jack, and all held together with a wing nut for quick and easy access:
All done!!
And the cargo cover fits, although awkwardly...I don't care, I'd never run without it...
and....
I no longer have to worry about strawberry milkshake!
I ordered a B&M (70255) Transmission Cooler from Summit and installed today!
I decided against the Tru-Cool as everyone else uses, because B&M has made a name for itself as quality parts and because Summit has a reputation for getting things to my door within 2 days. The cooler also has an interior bypass system to allow for cool fluid to bypass the cooler until it's at operating temperature.
06-21-2010, 05:12 PM
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So I wasn't too happy about shelling out 5 bills plus shipping on a set of BudBuilt skids....soo....I kinda....made my own.
At my job we were throwing out some old warehouse shelves...looked about the perfect size for the belly of my 'Runner so I grabbed 2 out of the dumpster. Now let me say these are not 1/8" steel plate. They're probably around 1/16", just slightly thicker and stronger than the factory skids. It's not the BEST protection, but its absolutely, positively, 100% better than nothing. And sorry guys, I won't be building more lol.
Tonight I started on the Trans Pan Skid.
Here's the shelf I was using:
I cut down and flattened one side, this will sit over the back 2 bolt holes of the factory skids, and utilize the same bolts:
The back side got flipped up vertical. This will use the two inside bolts on the transmission crosmember:
Fresh coat of semi-gloss black:
and..............INSTALLED!
pretty decent...especially for free...
At my job we were throwing out some old warehouse shelves...looked about the perfect size for the belly of my 'Runner so I grabbed 2 out of the dumpster. Now let me say these are not 1/8" steel plate. They're probably around 1/16", just slightly thicker and stronger than the factory skids. It's not the BEST protection, but its absolutely, positively, 100% better than nothing. And sorry guys, I won't be building more lol.
Tonight I started on the Trans Pan Skid.
Here's the shelf I was using:
I cut down and flattened one side, this will sit over the back 2 bolt holes of the factory skids, and utilize the same bolts:
The back side got flipped up vertical. This will use the two inside bolts on the transmission crosmember:
Fresh coat of semi-gloss black:
and..............INSTALLED!
pretty decent...especially for free...
08-08-2010, 09:55 PM
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question... I have OME stiffies and heavies all the way around, and I'm installing the daystar 1 1/2in rear coil spacers, I attempted to do the install the other day and noticed that the parking brake line was STRETCHED when I was messing with the rear end, Do you have any issues with your parking brake line seeing that you have those super tall LC coils?
08-09-2010, 02:24 AM
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question... I have OME stiffies and heavies all the way around, and I'm installing the daystar 1 1/2in rear coil spacers, I attempted to do the install the other day and noticed that the parking brake line was STRETCHED when I was messing with the rear end, Do you have any issues with your parking brake line seeing that you have those super tall LC coils?
10-10-2010, 08:35 PM
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Toyota incorrectly set backlash on the rear differentials in a good amount of FJ Cruisers. This causes the differentials to howl. What does someone do with a brand new car that makes noise? Warranty. The dealership will replace the 3rd member under warranty. Many of these 3rds are the coveted e-Locker. On most warranties, Toyota Motor Company will call back the old parts for inspection. The 3rd members cost too much for Toyota to ship, so they don't get called back. Instead the dealerships are told to throw them away, many get sold to a scrap guy.
Enter my friend Mike. If you've seen some of my picture threads from wheeling trips, you'll see a white and black fully locked and SAS'd 1st Gen. That's Mike. He's a technician at a local Toyota dealership. He replaced e-locker 3rds in two consecutive FJs. He had the parts manager hold both of them, as he was gonna swap out his LockRight lockers for a pair of e-lockers. Mike was nice enough to give me one of them and buy an ARB instead.
So with new locker in hand, I logged onto East Coast Gear Supply, located in one of the Carolinas (not sure which). If you are in need of any gears, lockers, t-case parts or really anything Toyota or Suzuki, these guys are top notch. Highly Recommended! Anyways, I ordered from them a Ring and Pinion set by Precision Gears in the 4.88 ratio, along with the triple drilled flange, solid spacer and e-locker gasket*. I got a call from them an hour later, they didn't have the Precision gears in stock, but they'd give me Nitro Gears instead for the same price! That's a $255 gearset for $159!!
Upon reciept of the parts (super fast shipping) I ran down to East End Transmissions in Westhampton Beach, Long Island (also highly recommended!) and they tossed the diff together with the new gears for a mere $150.
My next problem was wiring. I have a 2001 so it never came equipped with the locker harness/ECU or anything. So I looked towards 12voltguy.com for a standalone wiring/switch setup. The only ties to the vehicle on this kit were power and ground. The rest of the wiring was independent and ran from the switch all the way to the differential.
I'm so lucky to have had so many cool people help me get everything together and also with the install. There were hiccups and my Runner ended up sitting at my friends house for about 3 weeks, and in between running around like crazy and muscling through the CO Police Academy, he helped out a ton.
Okay enough of the sappy love story, you want the writeup! Here's the writeup I was following throughout my build:
Retrofit Electric Locker
The only thing we did different was leaving the housing installed in the truck, and we drilled the holes unsing the 3rd member itself, not the gasket.
In the garage and sittin' on jackstands
Jacked up, pulled axle shafts out
before...
Driveshaft dropped and fluid drained...say goodbye to this silly open diff with 3.90 gears pfft!
it's about time I did this...
and the part numbers for anyone looking to buy the seals from the dealer
A diff doesn't get much more "open" than this
Who wants an open differential with 3.90 gears?...<crickets>...yeah me neither
Marking out the notch for the cut...scariest part of the build- cutting into a perfectly good housing
Enter my friend Mike. If you've seen some of my picture threads from wheeling trips, you'll see a white and black fully locked and SAS'd 1st Gen. That's Mike. He's a technician at a local Toyota dealership. He replaced e-locker 3rds in two consecutive FJs. He had the parts manager hold both of them, as he was gonna swap out his LockRight lockers for a pair of e-lockers. Mike was nice enough to give me one of them and buy an ARB instead.
So with new locker in hand, I logged onto East Coast Gear Supply, located in one of the Carolinas (not sure which). If you are in need of any gears, lockers, t-case parts or really anything Toyota or Suzuki, these guys are top notch. Highly Recommended! Anyways, I ordered from them a Ring and Pinion set by Precision Gears in the 4.88 ratio, along with the triple drilled flange, solid spacer and e-locker gasket*. I got a call from them an hour later, they didn't have the Precision gears in stock, but they'd give me Nitro Gears instead for the same price! That's a $255 gearset for $159!!
Upon reciept of the parts (super fast shipping) I ran down to East End Transmissions in Westhampton Beach, Long Island (also highly recommended!) and they tossed the diff together with the new gears for a mere $150.
My next problem was wiring. I have a 2001 so it never came equipped with the locker harness/ECU or anything. So I looked towards 12voltguy.com for a standalone wiring/switch setup. The only ties to the vehicle on this kit were power and ground. The rest of the wiring was independent and ran from the switch all the way to the differential.
I'm so lucky to have had so many cool people help me get everything together and also with the install. There were hiccups and my Runner ended up sitting at my friends house for about 3 weeks, and in between running around like crazy and muscling through the CO Police Academy, he helped out a ton.
Okay enough of the sappy love story, you want the writeup! Here's the writeup I was following throughout my build:
Retrofit Electric Locker
The only thing we did different was leaving the housing installed in the truck, and we drilled the holes unsing the 3rd member itself, not the gasket.
In the garage and sittin' on jackstands
Jacked up, pulled axle shafts out
before...
Driveshaft dropped and fluid drained...say goodbye to this silly open diff with 3.90 gears pfft!
it's about time I did this...
and the part numbers for anyone looking to buy the seals from the dealer
A diff doesn't get much more "open" than this
Who wants an open differential with 3.90 gears?...<crickets>...yeah me neither
Marking out the notch for the cut...scariest part of the build- cutting into a perfectly good housing
10-10-2010, 08:37 PM
#38
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ahhh! starting the cut...
whew! Notch cut out!
My buddy Wade making the weld spots
the spots we had to build up
I don't have any pics of the drill-tap-stud process because we broke countless taps, drilled holes in wrong spots, welded them shut, re-drilled and tapped way too many times and it was way too frustrating to take pictures
what's this? an e-locker diff? In an '01 4Runner? You're a long way from home, pal!
*If you do this swap, DO NOT USE THE GASKET AS A TEMPLATE TO DRILL THE HOLES!! Install the diff in the housing and drill through the bolt holes in the 3rd!
As many of you know, three months ago I chunked my front ring and pinion. Well I am excited to tell you that I have ordered my assembled clamshell (also from East Coast Gear Supply). I ordered it fully assembled with 4.88 gears and...drumroll please...Detroit Tru-Trac Limited Slip Differential! The Tru-Trac is known in the industry for being a "tight" LSD; closer to positive lock than most LSDs. The desire to lock it completely can be achieved by applying a light brake pedal, which as anyone who really wheels(with an automatic) will tell you, they two-foot anyways. Although tight, it still retains road manners as well, which I wanted because I use 4Hi in the snow. I've been told that it feels as if your front tires are aired down. Build time is 4-6 days, shipping time is about 7-10 and install should take 2 hours, meaning I should be able to use 4WD again by the end of October! :guitar2:
whew! Notch cut out!
My buddy Wade making the weld spots
the spots we had to build up
I don't have any pics of the drill-tap-stud process because we broke countless taps, drilled holes in wrong spots, welded them shut, re-drilled and tapped way too many times and it was way too frustrating to take pictures
what's this? an e-locker diff? In an '01 4Runner? You're a long way from home, pal!
*If you do this swap, DO NOT USE THE GASKET AS A TEMPLATE TO DRILL THE HOLES!! Install the diff in the housing and drill through the bolt holes in the 3rd!
As many of you know, three months ago I chunked my front ring and pinion. Well I am excited to tell you that I have ordered my assembled clamshell (also from East Coast Gear Supply). I ordered it fully assembled with 4.88 gears and...drumroll please...Detroit Tru-Trac Limited Slip Differential! The Tru-Trac is known in the industry for being a "tight" LSD; closer to positive lock than most LSDs. The desire to lock it completely can be achieved by applying a light brake pedal, which as anyone who really wheels(with an automatic) will tell you, they two-foot anyways. Although tight, it still retains road manners as well, which I wanted because I use 4Hi in the snow. I've been told that it feels as if your front tires are aired down. Build time is 4-6 days, shipping time is about 7-10 and install should take 2 hours, meaning I should be able to use 4WD again by the end of October! :guitar2:
10-10-2010, 08:37 PM
#39
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shakedown run
I'm still in 2wd, but inspired by CoB and his 2wd wheelstands, I went out, locked the rear diff and had some fun!
(had to...)
It is insane how much more capable the truck gets just at the flip of a switch. Makes me wonder why I haven't done this sooner...
(had to...)
It is insane how much more capable the truck gets just at the flip of a switch. Makes me wonder why I haven't done this sooner...
10-10-2010, 11:05 PM
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Yo brotha, lookin' good!! Yea I've got my e-locker 3rd member and wire-harness sitting in the garage just dying to get installed in my truck. This makes me jealous! So whats the deal with your rear bumper? Workin going aftermarket?
Last edited by paynemw; 10-10-2010 at 11:08 PM.
