CynicX

yeah i know but i figure whats the point....Only engine I blew up was running Mobil 1 but it died from excess boost/heat....All the other vehicles I've owned I've sold with 200k+ miles with only running Dino oil since day one....Only reason I'd use syn is for the peace of mind...

roger

5w30 dino oil, usually valvoline. Synthetic is overrated IMHO.

Agent 7

Castrol Syntec 10w-30 with Lucas full synthetic oil additive for summer.

Castrol Syntec 5w-30 with Lucas full synthetic oil additive for winter.

I can't say enough about the Lucas additive! I felt quite a difference after adding it....

4RunnerFever

Amsoil - once a year. It is super smooth stuff.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I thought Amsoil was a group 4 oil. I know Redline is group 5, and that is what I use.

84sr5yoty

For all of you sold on royal purple, keep in mind that it contains moly. Moly is well known for for causing advanced wear on valvetraine components. Cummings banned the use of it in their motors in the mid 80's for this very reason.

kevin444

what a group 4 and or group 5???

I will be switching to Amsoil 5w30 after done with the rinse phase of auto-rx.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Been using Valvoline Max Life since it came out and it hasnt failed me yet. Very good stuff. Ive been told by a lot and i mean a lot of people that Castrol is some of the worst oil you can use. Its been known to blow peoples engines that have used one kind of oil for years and then switched to Castrol (nothing like doing the same with other brands). Any oil thats refined in the eastern side of the states is not good.

Whats your guys take/opinion on using synthectic oil in a car for the first time that already has 170,000 miles? I think it would increase the chances of an oil leak and lessen the power of the engine. Anyone disagree?

Amkeer

This is a load of garbage too! People please if you don't know what you are talking about don't reply!

CynicX

so your saying royal purple wasnt designed to wear your motor out as fast as it can?! <sarcasm intended>

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Opinions are like bellybuttons, everybody has one...

...and most are full of CRAP!

kyle_22r

i put my engine together with moly grease. i've always heard attempts to add it to oil formulas weren't usually successful because the moly tends to seperate and end up in the bottom of the oil pan.

LannyRx7

Ahh who fills their belly button up with crap!?!?

Personally I have never liked mobil 1 from the start...
I could piss in a bottle and say it's full synthetic motor oil, have ads and everything, doesn't mean it is. <sarcasm>

Amkeer

Ahhhh, but a uoa would prove its piss and not Mobil 1 thats if you couldn't smell it first.

Agent 7

If your going to post reason's why one product is better than another... or that you "hear" it's crap and causes motors to blow..... then back it up with actual fact, rather than word of mouth. It just makes you look like your a little sheep and following either what a friend, or what ads have told you. In case you haven't realized, every motor oil company "claims" to be better than the other. I'm not trying to flame anyone, but your points will be much more valid if you have the facts first.

84sr5yoty

I read about the moly issues several years ago. One of my buddies father use to work for cummins in the 90's and confirmed the statement was true. I happen to dig up some information about it from this site that seems to indorse amsoil (which I don't use. I use cheap dino)

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/engine_oils.htm

"Many "Racing" synthetic brands are ok for short term protection and reducing drag but many are moly based (contain molybdenum disulfides, Teflon - extreme pressure additive) which do not react well with moisture and must be changed frequently. Oils containing "Moly" have been noted to be corrosive to copper and yellow metals. These oils often contain a copper deactivator that will temporally protect the bearings but this combination quickly decomposes at relatively low temperatures and is totally useless in as little as 3000 miles. They may also leave a graphite like residue which will quickly clog filters and other passages. Their chemistry philosophies do not have long term equipment protection in mind. These oils have recently been banned by Cummins. (Cummins Engine Oil Recommendations, Bulletin No. 3810340-02) Honda Motorcycle and most other wet clutch equipment also now state No Moly based synthetic oils in the manuals."

Here is another one, indorsed by amsoil again (ironically) about the valve train wear

http://www.performancemotoroil.com/R...rple_info.html

"Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Moly in their oil. Moly is a solid, specifically banned by Cummins, due to excessive valve train wear."

rocket

iTrader: (1)

"A word about synthetics: Only oils that are created using Poly-Alpha-Olefin based technology are considered to be 'synthetic'. At least by anyone who knows better. The Castrol 'Syntec' synthetic oil is actually just a much more thoroughly refined 'dino', coming from the same crude that all conventional 'dinos' come from. Even though their base stocks closely approach the performance of PAO synthetics, they still contain trace elements, and are still susceptible to the effects of temperature extremes that full synthetics are almost immune to. By the way, Castrol does not make their own oil. They never have. They don't even own a single refinery. Never have. They simply buy their base stocks from one of the commercial suppliers (Coastal-Unilube is one), buy a custom-blended additive package from an additive supplier, and have a bottler package and label it all for them. That doesn't mean that it isn't any good. But in repeated testing, the Castrol products exhibit a wide variance in performance, the results of getting their products from many different suppliers."

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Read what i posted above. Im not trying to do reasearch here to prove facts. If word of mouth isnt good enough then i dont know what is so take this as you will. I worked at a farming company in NY for a solid 2 years and sold more oil in a day than Walmart sells in a week. Many of my customers were between the ages of 40 and 80+ years old. As many times as i could, if the guy buying oil looked over 50, i would ask him questions about it. Nearly half the time i was told negative things about Castrol. 2 or 3 guys actually had stories to tell about motors seizing while using Castrol. Maybe it was just a coincidence but ironically Castrol was also the least selling. These "old timers" practically used oil to make a living which to me was the best realiable source for knowing what was good and bad.

MDNT TOY

Hello All
Here is a oil FAQ from another site that I visit for my AE92
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/misc/all_oilfaq.html
The test was preformed by Amsoil so it my be slightly biased but, right at the top on every test is Mobil1 and Castrol GTX.

This is what I go by.

Mobil 1 in my newer cars/new motors.
Castrol GTX in everything else.

Granted I did snap my #3 rod on my AE92 about 3 months ago while it had GTX in it, but I did have 170,000 miles on the motor and I pushed it to 7500 rpms on the regular. At the time it let go I was only at 6500 rpms in 3rd at WOT coming off of an exit ramp. I'm think it leaned out due to the fact I only had 1/4 tank of fuel and pushing it hard in the curve at the same time.
Anyways some good oil info in it.
C-YA!!

-MaTTi-

Teboil Super HPD SAE 5W-40 (fully synthetic)
API CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, ACEA E5, E4, E3/B3, MB 228.3, MAN M3275, Volvo VDS-2,
RVI RLD, Cummins CES 20.071, -2, -6 and -7, Mack EO-M Plus

I buy 20 liter tin can at a time.