Tundra Brake Upgrade...
#21
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
What in the world are you talking about? The lines I have and sell are 19" long?
I have nothing what so ever 5"?
??? I have no clue if you are referenceing me, but your description is not of my product.
This line is 19", I DO NOT have, sell or have EVER seen a 5" "extension" line. ???
The ends are 1" and you can clearly see that it is pretty darn long, not 5".
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I have nothing what so ever 5"?
??? I have no clue if you are referenceing me, but your description is not of my product.
This line is 19", I DO NOT have, sell or have EVER seen a 5" "extension" line. ???
The ends are 1" and you can clearly see that it is pretty darn long, not 5".
???
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???
#22
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Originally Posted by ebelen1
Sent you a PM.
Give me a little more credit, A 5" line is absurd.
The ONLY brake lines we have are 19". I do not have ANY lines that are longer or shorter than this. It would be absolutely impossible to send anyone anything but a 19" brake line.
Last edited by sschaefer3; 05-20-2006 at 09:43 AM.
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Originally Posted by bamachem
i'm picking up the calipers today from NAPA. i'm getting them semi-loaded for $65 each.
#27
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
I sent you one back, you did not get the sort lines from me. I will be contacting Chris to see if he had the sort lines.
Give me a little more credit, A 5" line is absurd.
The ONLY brake lines we have are 19". I do not have ANY lines that are longer or shorter than this. It would be absolutely impossible to send anyone anything but a 19" brake line.
Give me a little more credit, A 5" line is absurd.
The ONLY brake lines we have are 19". I do not have ANY lines that are longer or shorter than this. It would be absolutely impossible to send anyone anything but a 19" brake line.
#28
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I've used Performance Friction pads for past 5 years and I am very happy with them.
I've also tried many other pads on different cars, Oem pads, TRD pads etc. About 6 month ago I decided to get AKEBONO pads (4Runner Part # ACT61) for my Lexus GS430 and let me tell you the difference is unbelievable in comparison to OEM or TRD pads. They are ceramic and produce almost no dust, Stopping power is great in any temperature range. Performance frictions pads need to be worm up before they function properly but AKEBONO are working from the start. These will be my next pads. Just my $0.02
I've also tried many other pads on different cars, Oem pads, TRD pads etc. About 6 month ago I decided to get AKEBONO pads (4Runner Part # ACT61) for my Lexus GS430 and let me tell you the difference is unbelievable in comparison to OEM or TRD pads. They are ceramic and produce almost no dust, Stopping power is great in any temperature range. Performance frictions pads need to be worm up before they function properly but AKEBONO are working from the start. These will be my next pads. Just my $0.02
#29
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Originally Posted by Bratik
I've used Performance Friction pads for past 5 years and I am very happy with them.
I've also tried many other pads on different cars, Oem pads, TRD pads etc. About 6 month ago I decided to get AKEBONO pads (4Runner Part # ACT61) for my Lexus GS430 and let me tell you the difference is unbelievable in comparison to OEM or TRD pads. They are ceramic and produce almost no dust, Stopping power is great in any temperature range. Performance frictions pads need to be worm up before they function properly but AKEBONO are working from the start. These will be my next pads. Just my $0.02
I've also tried many other pads on different cars, Oem pads, TRD pads etc. About 6 month ago I decided to get AKEBONO pads (4Runner Part # ACT61) for my Lexus GS430 and let me tell you the difference is unbelievable in comparison to OEM or TRD pads. They are ceramic and produce almost no dust, Stopping power is great in any temperature range. Performance frictions pads need to be worm up before they function properly but AKEBONO are working from the start. These will be my next pads. Just my $0.02
Question though.....which auto store chains sell those brand of pads?
#30
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
Incidentally Akebono were the inventors of ceramic brake pads and many people with Tundras swear by them.
Question though.....which auto store chains sell those brand of pads?
Question though.....which auto store chains sell those brand of pads?
Last edited by Bratik; 05-23-2006 at 08:23 AM.
#36
ok, done...
i have pics, but i left the camera at home, so they'll have to get uploaded later. i started at about 8:30 or so last night and got into bed at 5 after 1. ufff. that's hard on an old man.
i pulled the calipers and took some good comparison shots. the calipers on my 99 limited were stamped S13WM and the 199mm tundra calipers are S12WE. they are the exact same dimensions in every aspect except for the inner "void" where the pads rest. on the tundra caliper, that void is about 1/4" larger to accomodate the wider rotor. the rotors are halla beefy and really nice. the tundra pads have a lot more surface area for friction as well. i didn't even have to trim the dust shield since they are the same size as my OEM calipers. i got everything on and had a BIG problem - contact between the wheels and calipers! i had to clearance the highspots on the caliper closest to the hub, but that was really nothing w/ a variable speed grinder and a 80-grip paper wheel. i touched up the clearanced spots w/ some flat black just to protect it from rust. i bled everything out, then moved to the rears.... uff. the driver side was OK, and i just cleaned and adjusted it. on the passenger side - it was a different story. i not only had a rear seal leak that has coated everything in 75W90, but i also have a rear caliper piston dust boot that's squirting fluid. that means that i have a leak at that piston! arrrrgh! i guess i'll be changing the rears soon too. now i'm glad that i didn't get those $$$$ shoes from the dealer. anyway, i got things cleaned up to decent shape and put everything back together and went for a drive.
WOW!
very nice! my front rotors were in bad shape and grooved, but the stopping power has NEVER been this good, even w/ OEM 4runner pads and stock resurfaced rotors. i'd say that over new stock stuff, the stopping power has increased at least 20% and probably more like 30%. over the performance that i was having w/ my crappy rotors - well over 50% increase. before i had to put the pedal to the floor to stop with any force at all. now all i have to do is tap it to about 30-40% and it will stop on a dime!
overall, i was going to have to replace pads and rotors anyway, so the extra $200 for new calipers that allowed me to upgrade to thicker rotors and pads w/ more surface area was WELL SPENT!
i have pics, but i left the camera at home, so they'll have to get uploaded later. i started at about 8:30 or so last night and got into bed at 5 after 1. ufff. that's hard on an old man.
i pulled the calipers and took some good comparison shots. the calipers on my 99 limited were stamped S13WM and the 199mm tundra calipers are S12WE. they are the exact same dimensions in every aspect except for the inner "void" where the pads rest. on the tundra caliper, that void is about 1/4" larger to accomodate the wider rotor. the rotors are halla beefy and really nice. the tundra pads have a lot more surface area for friction as well. i didn't even have to trim the dust shield since they are the same size as my OEM calipers. i got everything on and had a BIG problem - contact between the wheels and calipers! i had to clearance the highspots on the caliper closest to the hub, but that was really nothing w/ a variable speed grinder and a 80-grip paper wheel. i touched up the clearanced spots w/ some flat black just to protect it from rust. i bled everything out, then moved to the rears.... uff. the driver side was OK, and i just cleaned and adjusted it. on the passenger side - it was a different story. i not only had a rear seal leak that has coated everything in 75W90, but i also have a rear caliper piston dust boot that's squirting fluid. that means that i have a leak at that piston! arrrrgh! i guess i'll be changing the rears soon too. now i'm glad that i didn't get those $$$$ shoes from the dealer. anyway, i got things cleaned up to decent shape and put everything back together and went for a drive.
WOW!
very nice! my front rotors were in bad shape and grooved, but the stopping power has NEVER been this good, even w/ OEM 4runner pads and stock resurfaced rotors. i'd say that over new stock stuff, the stopping power has increased at least 20% and probably more like 30%. over the performance that i was having w/ my crappy rotors - well over 50% increase. before i had to put the pedal to the floor to stop with any force at all. now all i have to do is tap it to about 30-40% and it will stop on a dime!
overall, i was going to have to replace pads and rotors anyway, so the extra $200 for new calipers that allowed me to upgrade to thicker rotors and pads w/ more surface area was WELL SPENT!
Last edited by bamachem; 05-25-2006 at 04:08 AM.
#37
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Yeah, your brakes were really bad. Glad to hear you got it all fixed.
Now on to the back Homer. Big old GM 1 Ton brakes aren't so bad either. Next time you see the Dana 44 4Runner take a look at how freakin huge they are. Probably the same brake to stop basically the same size vehicle.
Now on to the back Homer. Big old GM 1 Ton brakes aren't so bad either. Next time you see the Dana 44 4Runner take a look at how freakin huge they are. Probably the same brake to stop basically the same size vehicle.
#38
yeah, they were getting really bad by the time you drove it to tellico. it was worse on the way home w/ the soaked rear shoes. it was WAY past time to do something about the front rotors. i'm just glad that i spent the extra $200 and got some good stoppage now. i'll do the pass rear seal, new caliper pistons and OEM shoes in the next month or so.
#39
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Originally Posted by bamachem
i'd say that over new stock stuff, the stopping power has increased at least 20% and probably more like 30%. over the performance that i was having w/ my crappy rotors - well over 50% increase. before i had to put the pedal to the floor to stop with any force at all. now all i have to do is tap it to about 30-40% and it will stop on a dime!
overall, i was going to have to replace pads and rotors anyway, so the extra $200 for new calipers that allowed me to upgrade to thicker rotors and pads w/ more surface area was WELL SPENT!
overall, i was going to have to replace pads and rotors anyway, so the extra $200 for new calipers that allowed me to upgrade to thicker rotors and pads w/ more surface area was WELL SPENT!
#40
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Originally Posted by ebelen1
Same experience here and same rationale for the extra cost. For those w/ 3rd gens and original rotors, you have to really look into this upgrade...