Texas_Ace

Waste of money to pay someone to do the SC install IMO, I can remove and reinstall mine in about an hour. Up to you though.

The valve body needs to be sent off, you can try it yourself by turning the line pressure all the way up, this will help some but it is not the same. If you want to give your transmission the best chance at living, send the VB off to get reworked.

The plugs are about the only thing to really change, everything else is just replacing.

One thing you can do that is worth a little power is removing the elbow that goes into the fender on the airbox, also a high flow air filter.

4x4Forner

ok well i'll think about getting a buddy and doin it myself if its that easy. its just nuts and bolts right? Do you have a good place to buy good plugs? also which one are top notch best of the best? I'm gonna change all my wires and vacuum hoses to red ones just for looks, can I get bigger or better performance wires and vacuum hoses? or does that matter at all? I already have a K&N cold air intake system and Air Raid throttle body spacer. I was told you can not run a throttle body spacer and a supercharger at the same time, is this true?

Texas_Ace

Yeah, the install is pretty easy, just take your time and follow the directions. Just unbolting the stock stuff and bolting on the new stuff. With a friend and it being your first time figure an afternoon.

Wires there is not much int he way of options, i run NGK because they are cheap, OEM is fine or if you find some red wires to match your vacuum line that is fine.

If at all possible ditch the "cold" air intake and revert to stock, dyno tested back to back the stock intake makes more power. Ditch the TB spacer as well, they are worthless.

Be sure to flush your coolant system with some superflush, also drain/refill the transmission is a good idea. Change your oil, use a mid 90's ford turas 3.0l V6 oil filter, it is bigger. Change the fuel filter. Flush the brake fluid, you will be using the brakes harder most likely and you don't want old fluid boiling.

Lastly install a transmission cooler if you have not already, get the biggest one you can find. That will go a long way to keeping your transmission alive.

Far as the plugs, just search online for the best price. That is where I get anything I don't need ASAP and it not gonna cost a ton to ship.

aowRS

I purchased my '01 new and now have 261,000+ miles. If I stumbled across a used supercharger for a reasonable amount, I'd bolt it on without thinking twice.


Andreas

4x4Forner

Ok awesome Thanks for all this awesome advise you are really helping me out on this one. I would have just gone to my mechanic and told him to install everything and then my tranny would have blown or something. where did you get your tanny cooler? what kind is it and how much did it cost you? for a tranny cooler you have to completely fab up brakets in stuff right. and add it in where ever you can fit it. our 4runners don't come stock with transmission cooler do they?
Thanks again for all the help

Texas_Ace

No problem.

I think I paid $50 for my cooler, just search online for the biggest you can find. I forgot the brand it is the major brand that you will see everywhere.

Yes, it will take some fabbing/DIY work to install it, not that hard, just got to figure out where you want it.

Our radiators do have transmission coolers built in but they are not enough once you are supercharged in the middle of summer. You can either skip the factory cooler, which will eliminate the chance of the "red milkshake" or use both for the best performance.

4x4Forner

How much does it cost to have IPT re-work the valve body?

Texas_Ace

http://www.importperformancetrans.co...ody-173-1.html

4x4Forner

So I just read some stuff on transmission cooler and turns out I'm not gonna need one. I have a 5 speed manual so my transmission will not get as hot as an auto. Tell me if I'm wrong but this is what I've found out from my researching. Also I was lookin at some red spark plug wires on ebay they are OML high performance 10mm spark plug wire set, it says it will fit 97 4runner. But i dont know if i trust them. Im kind thinkin about just getting all NGK BCPR7ET plugs and the TE66 wires. I just want red wires instead of blue, cause all my add-ons are red.

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

hahahaha... didn't know you had a manual transmission

yes, you don't need a tranny cooler and you don't have a valve-body...

Texas_Ace

What he said, with the manual you don't need any of the tranny mods, except possibly the clutch if it goes out down the road.

4x4Forner

Oh REALLY!!! for real that's awesome. I already have the TRD stage 2 racing clutch and URD short shifter on there. Its fun as hell to drive with the short shifter!! so I can just bolt on the supercharger, install the 7th injector, and change my plugs and wires, and thats it i should be good to go right?



Also I was gonna get some gauges, for starters where can i get a nice TRD boost gauge, then I want an air/fuel ratio and voltmeter which i was gonna go with AEM for those, but they are kind of expensive, then I was thinking of going all out and getting an oil pressure, fuel pressure, trans temp, water temp, and oil temp, just cause it would be cool. but on a serious note what are the most important gauges to have when supercharged with 7th injector and manual trans.

Texas_Ace

Screw TRD gauge, you could but 3 or 4 gauges for the price of that one.

I like these personally, they are cheap and work fine: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/

For the wideband you have a few options, look around and see which one fits your budget the best. You will have to wend a new bung onto the exhaust for the wideband sensor.

No need for a voltmeter IMO, I have one and never use it. While driving you don't need it and if it won't start then it is too late for it to help you lol.

Most important gauges would be Wideband and boost, although the boost is mainly cause it is fun to watch when driving.

Other options are oil pressure, oil temp, transmission temp. But those are not really needed, if you want them I would get yourself a combo gauge that combines them into 1 gauge.

If you got money burning in your pocket, then what you would want is a coolingmist CMGS meth injection kit, that will net you big gains and it has a built in boost gauge. Makes everything a lot safer on the engine as well.

Don't forget your complete tuneup like I said above.

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

you might also like to have an EGT gauge to monitor the exhaust gas temp. higher than normal EGTs can result in the melting of the pistons.

Dirt Driver

I know that at least the Innovate controllers have analog outputs that can be programmed to output a narrowband signal. That allows using the original pre-cat location for a wideband while still providing the factory ECU with a narrowband signal.

Texas_Ace

They can output a signal like that but it doesn't work with all cars. For example our ECU's look for a wave pattern from the O2 sensor and I am almost positive that the LC-1 outputs a solid voltage, this will trip a CEL.

Also the factory Narrowband 2 bolt flange will not work with a wideband sensor. The wideband sensors are screw in sensors. So won't really help you anyways.

4x4Forner

Ok so I got spots for 3 gauges. I'm gonna go with boost gauge and Air/Fuel gauge forsure. what it the most important gauge to have other than those two, I was thinking Voltmeter cause I listen to my music when camping in what not and would be nice to keep an eye on what my battery is doin. although that does not seem like that important of a gauge either. so then i was thinking of going with an EGT gauge. whats most important EGT temp, oil temp,trans temp, water temp,oil pressure, fuel pressure, water pressure, or voltmeter?


Also does the EGT temp gauge move much when driving like the boost and Air/fuel do when you step on the gas?

Texas_Ace

Yes, the EGT will change a fair amount when driving. They bit more "advanced" then is needed for most trucks. It is a nice gauge but got to know how to use it.

Which gauge is best for you will depend on what you are doing with the truck. If it was mine, I would get some combo gauges that have mutiple gauges in 1.

Something like this: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/blue-...ure-gauge.aspx

That is actually a really good deal for an EGT gauge. There are other gauge combos as well.

The Transmission temp can be viewed on an OBDII scanner so no need for a gauge IMO, get yourself a $25 bluetooth OBDII scanner and then your phone can connect to your truck anytime you want. Same for water temp.

So that leaves oil pressure and oil temp. Oil pressure is nice since it shows you that you have pressure and that nothing catastrophic has gone wrong, it can also help let you know when it is time to change your oil if you know what to look for.

Oil temp is nice to be able to see when the engine is fully warmed up (the water temp will be at temp a good while before oil temps), can also let you know if it is running hot ect.

Like I was saying before if you ever plan on adding meth injection I would plan a spot in the gauge pod for that now and skip the boost gauge so you can same some money there.

Dirt Driver

That's typical of narrowband applications; the output flip-flops between rich and lean. The LC-1 can be programmed to have a very steep output curve over a narrow AFR and voltage like an NB sensor. The flange-to-M18x1.5mm sensor adapters were also about $5-10 last time I looked.



I'll point out out, though, that I haven't tried any of that myself. I guess I could...I already have an LC-1 and the right truck.

Texas_Ace

I also have an LC1 that outputted the voltage to a standalone on one of my other cars. The voltage was very stable and I don't remember seeing any way to make it have a wave pattern. The wave pattern even being off a little can cause a CEL, had to deal with that before I made an O2 simulator.

I also could not find any adapter when I looked for one a few years ago. All that aside, I would NOT trust the LC-1 to run my truck. Mine was unreliable and the last thing you want it to get stuck with a bad O2 sensor CEL in the middle of nowhere.

I would rather get the bung installed. I think it only costs me $20 for mine.