TRD Injector Kit ($1299)!
09-26-2003, 01:47 PM
#42
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Bay Runner,
I don't like this kit because there are other ways to fix the problem(s) this kit is supposed to address for far less money. Do a search, you'll see what I mean. Since this kit doesn't include a larger fuel pump, it seems pointless to me. Once again TRD is claiming unrealistic performance gains.
My .02
Dr. Z
I don't like this kit because there are other ways to fix the problem(s) this kit is supposed to address for far less money. Do a search, you'll see what I mean. Since this kit doesn't include a larger fuel pump, it seems pointless to me. Once again TRD is claiming unrealistic performance gains.
My .02
Dr. Z
09-26-2003, 01:52 PM
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Dr. Z,
I was going to talk to my local dealer about including larger fuel pump on top of this kit since as you said where is TRD getting the extra fuel from without the larger pump?
I was going to talk to my local dealer about including larger fuel pump on top of this kit since as you said where is TRD getting the extra fuel from without the larger pump?
09-26-2003, 02:03 PM
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Well BR, I still think you should consider other alternatives to the TRD kit unless you have a lot of money to burn. The SMT-5/6 or the Unichip along with larger injectors and fuel pump would cost about half what the TRD kit cost AND would allow you to tailor the performance to your specific truck. The TRD kit is a one-size fits most solution.
I think TRD blew it on the Supercharger to begin with and have no faith in them to provide a fix that actually solves the probems they created in the first place.
I dunno, that's just my opinion.
Dr. Z
I think TRD blew it on the Supercharger to begin with and have no faith in them to provide a fix that actually solves the probems they created in the first place.
I dunno, that's just my opinion.
Dr. Z
09-26-2003, 02:16 PM
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THX, Dr. Z,
Helpful as always. I like the idea of bigger injectors and SMT5/6 better as well but my problem is that I don't think I could install it myself, unless somebody comes-up with an ideate proof installation instructions.
Cheers.
Helpful as always. I like the idea of bigger injectors and SMT5/6 better as well but my problem is that I don't think I could install it myself, unless somebody comes-up with an ideate proof installation instructions.
Cheers.
09-26-2003, 02:16 PM
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Re: pdf file
Originally posted by TOR
Hey Ravencr, shoot me a copy once you get if you don't mind.
Todd
Hey Ravencr, shoot me a copy once you get if you don't mind.
Todd
Chris
09-26-2003, 02:17 PM
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Injectors
Gadget is coming out with something and I would much rather wait and see what he has to offer for it. I think his system will be much more of what eveyone is looking for judging by his past posts and experiments.
As for TRD I don't think they completely blew it, I still love my SC and wouldn't trade it. There are a few kinks that need to be worked out but for the most part I think they did a good job.
Ravencr, yeah we got the same rig. I love mine!
Todd
As for TRD I don't think they completely blew it, I still love my SC and wouldn't trade it. There are a few kinks that need to be worked out but for the most part I think they did a good job.
Ravencr, yeah we got the same rig. I love mine!
Todd
Last edited by TOR; 09-26-2003 at 02:19 PM.
09-26-2003, 02:19 PM
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Originally posted by Bay Runner
THX, Dr. Z,
Helpful as always. I like the idea of bigger injectors and SMT5/6 better as well but my problem is that I don't think I could install it myself, unless somebody comes-up with an ideate proof installation instructions.
Cheers.
THX, Dr. Z,
Helpful as always. I like the idea of bigger injectors and SMT5/6 better as well but my problem is that I don't think I could install it myself, unless somebody comes-up with an ideate proof installation instructions.
Cheers.
Chris
09-26-2003, 03:06 PM
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Re: Geat Site!
Originally posted by TOR
Hey WATRD, you got a great site w/ some awesome pics. Definitely looks like you get your money's worth out of your truck. The guys in the shop love it! I do have a question for ya, my buddy wants an ARB bumper w/ winch like yours where did you pick yours up?
Todd
Hey WATRD, you got a great site w/ some awesome pics. Definitely looks like you get your money's worth out of your truck. The guys in the shop love it! I do have a question for ya, my buddy wants an ARB bumper w/ winch like yours where did you pick yours up?
Todd
I run sort of a loose sponsorship arrangement with ARB, they experiment on my truck with things like bumper mounts, lockers, etc. and I get a killer deal on the stuff they put on. So, the deal I got is not really repeatable. Just do a bit of internet shopping for both the bumper and the winch. I see both on sale from time to time at various shops
09-26-2003, 03:28 PM
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Still have not received the .pdf file so I think that ship has sailed for the weekend since they are in CA.
I was reading through the directions and found some hand written notes on what they faxed me, so I don't think they even have the installation procedure 100% correct. I also noticed that they want you to install the TRD thermostat which is something that Magnuson said not to do. I do not want to change the thermostat but the new ECU is probably programmed for it.
I was reading through the directions and found some hand written notes on what they faxed me, so I don't think they even have the installation procedure 100% correct. I also noticed that they want you to install the TRD thermostat which is something that Magnuson said not to do. I do not want to change the thermostat but the new ECU is probably programmed for it.
09-26-2003, 03:31 PM
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Why does magnuson not recommending using the TRD thermostat? In addition, the TRD thermostat has been discontinued according to someone else on yotatech. There's a whole thread about it.
Chris
Chris
09-26-2003, 05:13 PM
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Originally posted by ravencr
Why does magnuson not recommending using the TRD thermostat? In addition, the TRD thermostat has been discontinued according to someone else on yotatech. There's a whole thread about it.
Chris
Why does magnuson not recommending using the TRD thermostat? In addition, the TRD thermostat has been discontinued according to someone else on yotatech. There's a whole thread about it.
Chris
I know about the defective thermostats and I cannot give you an engineers answer to why they do not recommend using the lower thermostat but it has to do with the efficiency of fuel burning among other things having to do with the well being of the engine. All I know is that everyone in my Impala club was doing this lemings mod until some of the engineers in the group proved that it was not beneficial and caused poorer performance. I understand that we want the SC's engine to run cool but to my understanding the big push to using the 160 thermo was because the stock tuning with the SC tended to run lean which produced higher engine temps. Good tuning would remove the need for the lower thermostat. My guess is that TRD just wants to sell you something else and that recommendation comes from the marketing side instead of the engineering side.
09-26-2003, 05:59 PM
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One more thing. (I just got back from fishing and I am pretty tired but I wanted to read the install manual and see if I could make sense of it even with the very poor pictures.)
On page 7/8 they instruct you to remove the inner fender well liner on the passenger side and remove the snorkle tube that feeds (?) the airbox. Then they want you to remove the intake elbow that the snorkle was attached to. TRD supplies a 3-1/4" I.D. hose that they want you to attach to the airbox. "The edge of the hose should rest at the lip of the shoulder." Then you reinstall the airbox. I found this really interesting. To me it confirms that the snorkle is restrictive and does cause somewhat of a reverse (scavenging) effect.
Can you say deckplate mod ...
I also can not tell for sure, but this TRD ECU may be a piggy back unit that works in conjunction with the OE ECU.
I think I like this kit, and for my purposes it will probably be the way to go; however, the work that all you guys have done with injectors and SMT5/6 electronics surely is going to net more HP because it will allow case-by-case FINE tuning. Oh well ... I am just a KISS guy. :chicken:
On page 7/8 they instruct you to remove the inner fender well liner on the passenger side and remove the snorkle tube that feeds (?) the airbox. Then they want you to remove the intake elbow that the snorkle was attached to. TRD supplies a 3-1/4" I.D. hose that they want you to attach to the airbox. "The edge of the hose should rest at the lip of the shoulder." Then you reinstall the airbox. I found this really interesting. To me it confirms that the snorkle is restrictive and does cause somewhat of a reverse (scavenging) effect.
Can you say deckplate mod ...
I also can not tell for sure, but this TRD ECU may be a piggy back unit that works in conjunction with the OE ECU.
I think I like this kit, and for my purposes it will probably be the way to go; however, the work that all you guys have done with injectors and SMT5/6 electronics surely is going to net more HP because it will allow case-by-case FINE tuning. Oh well ... I am just a KISS guy. :chicken:
09-26-2003, 07:33 PM
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I'm really wondering if that's true about the TRD thermo, because if it is, I'll more than gladly go back to the stock thermo, because it provides for better gas mileage. I wonder how we could confirm wha you said, which makes total sense to me. Anyone have any ideas on who might confirm that excellent theory from ManyMods?
Chris
Chris
09-26-2003, 08:12 PM
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Originally posted by ManyMods
All I know is that everyone in my Impala club was doing this lemings mod until some of the engineers in the group proved that it was not beneficial and caused poorer performance.
All I know is that everyone in my Impala club was doing this lemings mod until some of the engineers in the group proved that it was not beneficial and caused poorer performance.
thanks, im confused....
09-27-2003, 02:17 AM
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Originally posted by its2slo
are you talking about 160 thermostats in 94-96 impala ss's?
thanks, im confused....
are you talking about 160 thermostats in 94-96 impala ss's?
thanks, im confused....
I would think that anyone with a strong engineering and physics background could explain this to us.
I will write my friend and see if he can pen a good explanation.
09-27-2003, 09:40 AM
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Jake,
There are those who know and there are those who KNOW. It sounds as though you are an Impala owner, how long have you been into it? It really does not matter, NA or blown.
ANYWAY.....
Here is an explanation from one of the brightest engineers that I know. I have not edited any of his response. Take it for what it is worth and if you don't agree or like what is being said, please ignore, move on and don't waste the bandwidth. OI really do not care what anyone does or does not do; it is your ride and your money. FYI
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thermostat selection is a science unto itself that is influenced by many other engine factors. In
your case, you've added boost where the factory didn't plan for any and are left scrambling to try
to get your AFRs right, find a suitable cooler plug and run the cooling system colder, all in the
interest of controlling detonation. It has been my experience that getting your fuel and spark
programmed in the PCM correctly for a boosted engine is VASTLY more important than messing
with the thermostat. The primary reason is that the thermostat does NOT control the temp that
your engine will run at - it controls the point at which significant coolant flow will occur. It is the
thermal capacity of the entire cooling system that will determine where the temp will stabilize to
under steady state conditions. So, if your cooling system doesn't have the capacity to remove
that extra heat at temps lower than the factory designed, you're not doing any good. Second,
significantly decreasing the coolant temp has an adverse effect on engine wear. When the engine
is cooler, you're running your mechaincal tolerances tighter and will tend to wear bearings and
rings far faster. SAE studies I've read from GM, Saab and Volvo all have demonstrated this
effect - which gets REAL nasty at coolant temps at/around 150-160*F. Lastly, its pretty well
understood by actual powertrain calibration engineers (the REAL ones that work for the OEMs)
that you WANT heat in the combustion chamber. Finding the balance between running your
engine at maximum safe operating temps and being detonation resistance is the very goal as
it permits you to optimize the thermal efficiency of the engine and get every last bit of power
per unit fuel consumed.
My advice? Run a factory temp stat and concentrate on getting the spark and fuel dialed in
right. That alone will make the single biggest difference in how that engine runs. There must
be someone out there reprogramming Toyota PCMs, isn't there? Use the stat only as a last
resort if you need a bit more margin to get away from the ragged edge of detonation.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<End
There are those who know and there are those who KNOW. It sounds as though you are an Impala owner, how long have you been into it? It really does not matter, NA or blown.
ANYWAY.....
Here is an explanation from one of the brightest engineers that I know. I have not edited any of his response. Take it for what it is worth and if you don't agree or like what is being said, please ignore, move on and don't waste the bandwidth. OI really do not care what anyone does or does not do; it is your ride and your money. FYI
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thermostat selection is a science unto itself that is influenced by many other engine factors. In
your case, you've added boost where the factory didn't plan for any and are left scrambling to try
to get your AFRs right, find a suitable cooler plug and run the cooling system colder, all in the
interest of controlling detonation. It has been my experience that getting your fuel and spark
programmed in the PCM correctly for a boosted engine is VASTLY more important than messing
with the thermostat. The primary reason is that the thermostat does NOT control the temp that
your engine will run at - it controls the point at which significant coolant flow will occur. It is the
thermal capacity of the entire cooling system that will determine where the temp will stabilize to
under steady state conditions. So, if your cooling system doesn't have the capacity to remove
that extra heat at temps lower than the factory designed, you're not doing any good. Second,
significantly decreasing the coolant temp has an adverse effect on engine wear. When the engine
is cooler, you're running your mechaincal tolerances tighter and will tend to wear bearings and
rings far faster. SAE studies I've read from GM, Saab and Volvo all have demonstrated this
effect - which gets REAL nasty at coolant temps at/around 150-160*F. Lastly, its pretty well
understood by actual powertrain calibration engineers (the REAL ones that work for the OEMs)
that you WANT heat in the combustion chamber. Finding the balance between running your
engine at maximum safe operating temps and being detonation resistance is the very goal as
it permits you to optimize the thermal efficiency of the engine and get every last bit of power
per unit fuel consumed.
My advice? Run a factory temp stat and concentrate on getting the spark and fuel dialed in
right. That alone will make the single biggest difference in how that engine runs. There must
be someone out there reprogramming Toyota PCMs, isn't there? Use the stat only as a last
resort if you need a bit more margin to get away from the ragged edge of detonation.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<End
